Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications (Read 1726602 times)

protonmom · « **Reply #3120 on:** February 24, 2010, 03:38:52 PM »

Another thing,

I forget who it was, but someone mentioned using annealed iron. How do you make your own annealed iron? Do you put it in a bon-fire and cook the heck out of it, and let it cool off? Will that do the trick? How does annealing make it soft iron? And what are the properties of soft iron that make it important in the coils? does annealing make the iron more magnetic?

Lots of questions. Anyone have the answers? Thanks in advance.

Cap-Z-ro · « **Reply #3121 on:** February 24, 2010, 04:55:45 PM »

I'm not sure annealing iron would make it into soft iron or not pmom, but annealing requires heating metal red hot and an immediate immersion in cold water.

Regards...

WilbyInebriated · « **Reply #3122 on:** February 24, 2010, 05:35:47 PM »

Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on February 24, 2010, 04:55:45 PM

I'm not sure annealing iron would make it into soft iron or not pmom, but annealing requires heating metal red hot and an immediate immersion in cold water.

Regards...

actually, with annealing you heat the metal to just above or just below its austenizing temperature (depending on what kind of annealing you are doing), then you let it furnace cool or air cool (again depending on what kind of annealing you are doing), but you do not immerse it in cold water (quenching is a hardening process and if you quench too fast you end up with amorphous metal... that's how they make metglas), you always cool slowly. imho you would want to use a short cycle anneal for the iron... heat, cool and heat again.

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #3123 on:** February 24, 2010, 06:57:56 PM »

Wilby:

That's exactly correct about making Metglas. We used be be the only manufacturer of the zirconium oxide nozzles for Allied's Metglass production. I have seen their original machine many times. Basically it was a very large water cooled wheel, about 10 feet in diameter, and the molten metal was poured through our precision machined ceramic nozzles of various slots sizes (depending on what they were running that day) and the molten metal instantly crystallized upon contact with the spinning wheel and made a ribbon of Metglas with very unique properties. it was this manufacturing breakthrough that allowed our car starters and alternators to be reduced in size and weight by about half.

We machined the slots using ultrasonic impact grinding and the slots were about .010 + or - .0002" X 4" long. We also made all of their other sizes as well.

Brings back memories.

Bill

WilbyInebriated · « **Reply #3124 on:** February 24, 2010, 07:21:33 PM »

Quote from: Pirate88179 on February 24, 2010, 06:57:56 PM

Wilby:

That's exactly correct about making Metglas. We used be be the only manufacturer of the zirconium oxide nozzles for Allied's Metglass production. I have seen their original machine many times. Basically it was a very large water cooled wheel, about 10 feet in diameter, and the molten metal was poured through our precision machined ceramic nozzles of various slots sizes (depending on what they were running that day) and the molten metal instantly crystallized upon contact with the spinning wheel and made a ribbon of Metglas with very unique properties. it was this manufacturing breakthrough that allowed our car starters and alternators to be reduced in size and weight by about half.

We machined the slots using ultrasonic impact grinding and the slots were about .010 + or - .0002" X 4" long. We also made all of their other sizes as well.

Brings back memories.

Bill

for fun! how malleable was the metglas when it came off the wheel?

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #3125 on:** February 24, 2010, 07:28:42 PM »

It was fairly brittle which probably explains the large diameter of the wheel as the crystallized ribbon conformed to the circumference of the wheel before spinning off into a receiving bin.

I mean, you could bend it but it was not like al foil or anything.

Bill

IotaYodi · « **Reply #3126 on:** February 24, 2010, 11:13:37 PM »

Quote

And what are the properties of soft iron that make it important in the coils?

Hard Iron will retain more of a magnetic field after the magnetic field collapses than soft iron. When using these types of coils you want the maximum magnetic field collapse which produces more power.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_core

Heres a link for soft iron cores in a package of ten. Get enough replicators and you can divy the cost as well as having the same core.
http://sargentwelch.com/soft-iron-rod/p/IG0038157/

protonmom · « **Reply #3127 on:** February 25, 2010, 01:01:23 AM »

Thanks everyone. I wish I had asked that question last year. It might have saved me some time and money.

@IotaYodi: I looked at the website for the soft iron bars. They sure look good, but a little pricey for me at this time.

(pkg of 10 ...15 cm long for $37.55 or pkg 10 ...9.5 cm long for $41.09)

my bolts are 20 cm long at around $1.00 each so 10/Approx $10.00. I guess I will have to go with these as much as I would love to try the good ones. Just cannot justify the expense right now.

I will look online for sources for soft iron wire, though. Maybe that wont be so expensive. Anything has to be better than fence wire, I guess. I do have a bunch of wire clothes hangers, but I really wanted to use a bolt like in the patent. (I hear the clothes hangers are soft iron)

As soon as I get time I will upload some pictures of my new coils. I am hoping they will work better after being buried this spring.

lasersaber · « **Reply #3128 on:** February 25, 2010, 04:27:12 AM »

Quote

Heres a link for soft iron cores in a package of ten. Get enough replicators and you can divy the cost as well as having the same core.
http://sargentwelch.com/soft-iron-rod/p/IG0038157/

Those are the very soft iron rods that I ordered. I am not very happy with them. They retain their magnetism after the magnetic field is turned off. I think I am going to try a ferrite rod. Maybe I will make a huge coil around this: http://www.stormwise.com/page26.htm I am open to suggestions for a good ferrite rod to use. I know very little about them.

Here is a design that I plan on building when I get back from my trip. Based on testing that I have already been doing I am pretty sure this motor is going to run good. It will also to some extent accomplish the " make and break" switching.

electricme · « **Reply #3129 on:** February 25, 2010, 06:34:34 AM »

@Lasersaber,

This is really good what you are doing, finding these places to shop for materials, but, can I ask if you might post the details on how you made your stubblefield coil you posted above and on the one you posted on You Tube.

I am asking, because I don't want to go to all the effort and make it the wrong way.
Did you make the turns on the former by turning the former and feeding while guideing the wire.
Did you use a battery powered drill to turn the former?

I would think the only way to get a clean smooth level wire finish, one would need to secure the drill in a bench vice, secure the former by it's free threaded bolt end in a chuck, then set the drill speed and feed the 2 wires as the former revolves.

How many turns did you put on the coil?

I have some thick iron wire which is plastic coated, I have thinner garden wire plastic coated, and I have bare iron wire.

Am I headed in the right direction?

@Protonmom,
your idea to test the bolt for residual magnetism is a very good one, how could a stubblefield coil work if the iron/steel bolt became magnetised?
It has to be able to "drop" the magnetic field quickly, I wonder if long thin transformer steel would do the trick?

It would have a influence on the rest of the iron bifilar wire on the coil.

jim

freepow · « **Reply #3130 on:** February 25, 2010, 11:58:42 AM »

To anyone, does anyone know where I can get a 3.25 inch ferrite core toroid, same type used in jeanna's light

??

In Australia or USA ?

lasersaber · « **Reply #3131 on:** February 25, 2010, 12:58:39 PM »

@electricme

I would not use any plastic covered wire. The Iron wire should be the same size as copper wire plus it's cotton covering. I wound my coil by hand. I am not sure how well a drill would work. I enjoy winding my coils by hand.

I do plan on making complete instructions when I get back from my trip. I may post quick comments here while away if it seems somebody is about to buy something that does not work very well. I had high hopes for those soft iron cores. Now I have ten junk cores. I will now have to unwind my coils and make new ones with better cores in the future.

All I did on this project was look at the patent and follow it exactly. I do believe there may be one mistake in the patent drawings. The drawings show five layers of coil windings and I always have to do six or eight layers to get the wires to exit back out at the top of the coil. Nathan points out that the number of layers importance is in increasing the batteries output power.

I have built two coils. One with iron wire and of with galvanized iron wire. One reason I want to wait to share more is that I want to see how my coils are performing when I get back in two weeks. I will leave the galvanized one running a motor the whole time. I will test it when I get back to see how it holds up under constant load. So far I like the galvanized wire one much better. But time will tell.

electricme · « **Reply #3132 on:** February 25, 2010, 12:58:52 PM »

@freepow,

Quote from: freepow on February 25, 2010, 11:58:42 AM

To anyone, does anyone know where I can get a 3.25 inch ferrite core toroid, same type used in jeanna's light ??

In Australia or USA ?

Hello freepow, long time no see.
As far as I know, the easiest place to get the one you are after in the USA through Gadget of Gadgetmoll.
When emailing him, mention myself to him, and you are on the joule thief forum

click here to try gadgetmall http://www.sunpowerwindpower.com/documents/49.html

Jeanna, Bill and the others on the Joule Thief forum would be more up to date on this item than myself.

There was a company a few months back offering free toroids, I think Bill has those details.

Nice to see you posting Wayne.

jim

Cap-Z-ro · « **Reply #3133 on:** February 25, 2010, 01:12:55 PM »

Not sure if it was specified how tight the coil must be wound on the core...and am wondering if coils can be made so that the cores can be inter-changable, for the purpose of experimental expediency.

Regards...

electricme · « **Reply #3134 on:** February 25, 2010, 01:18:00 PM »

@lasersaber,

Quote from: lasersaber on February 25, 2010, 12:58:39 PM

@electricme

I would not use any plastic covered wire. The Iron wire should be the same size as copper wire plus it's cotton covering. I wound my coil by hand. I am not sure how well a drill would work. I enjoy winding my coils by hand.

I do plan on making complete instructions when I get back from my trip. I may post quick comments here while away if it seems somebody is about to buy something that does not work very well. I had high hopes for those soft iron cores. Now I have ten junk cores. I will now have to unwind my coils and make new ones with better cores in the future.

All I did on this project was look at the patent and follow it exactly. I do believe there may be one mistake in the patent drawings. The drawings show five layers of coil windings and I always have to do six or eight layers to get the wires to exit back out at the top of the coil. Nathan points out that the number of layers importance is in increasing the batteries output power.

I have built two coils. One with iron wire and of with galvanized iron wire. One reason I want to wait to share more is that I want to see how my coils are performing when I get back in two weeks. I will leave the galvanized one running a motor the whole time. I will test it when I get back to see how it holds up under constant load. So far I like the galvanized wire one much better. But time will tell.

Sorry to hear about your 10 junk cores, its no fun, and I got your above "loud and clear"

I will go and re-read the patient again.

Thankyou for taking the time to answer the queries, and I'll let you go and enjoy your hols

.

jim

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