Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications (Read 1726578 times)

Mk1 · « **Reply #3105 on:** February 16, 2010, 11:22:24 PM »

@all

I got a feeling that the battery coil and secondary are wound in opposite direction.

Mark

protonmom · « **Reply #3106 on:** February 17, 2010, 12:40:32 AM »

Thanks for the picture of the wire. Now, is that cotton or some kind of blend? Almost looks silky, doesn't it? How much did you buy and how much did it cost you in total if you don't mind my being nosy. Just want to know whether or not I can afford it. How much would you need for a large coil such as the one Stubblefield has laying on the ground in front of his box of batteries in this photo? See the white one in left front? (in front of the box) That is about the size of my last coil...maybe a little smaller.

protonmom · « **Reply #3107 on:** February 17, 2010, 12:55:18 AM »

It might be fun to make a five gallon huge coil, but I am thinking it might be better to make several smaller ones and hook them together. More convenient, AND wouldn't the smaller ones be subject to a greater amount of earth currents than one huge coil?

jeanna · « **Reply #3108 on:** February 17, 2010, 01:24:52 AM »

I will be very happy to have one that works well.
Later on I can make 2 or a bigger one, but that is the way I am.
With the cotton already there, it will be possible to count the turns.
and, that means the secondary can be longer than the primary!

.
This is really pretty exciting.

What I like about that close up is how close to the wire the cotton is.
It looks a little shiny but it is probably cotton.
Once it is mercerized cotton becomes shiny.
Before that there is a wax on it that makes it look dull, but I think this is on the crafts market and I bet the choice was made to make it shiny.
Now, that is a good thing.
It looks less absorbent, but it is actually more. (unless treated with acrylics and formaldehydes etc.)
ooo this is so cool

thank you,

jeanna

electricme · « **Reply #3109 on:** February 17, 2010, 08:33:33 AM »

@ Lasersaber,
That is a very good find, locating the place that sells cotton covered wire, how much did this drum cost you if this isn't a rude question?

And, what is its thickness? How many feet do you get on a roll?
Sorry for all the questions.

One things for sure, cotton shrinks when it gets wet, so coils might get a little sloppy after a while.

When you wind every layer, don't forget to cover the previous layer of winds with an insulator, cut the top section off a thin cotton sock would do the job, or a small pair of nylon stockings.

The first person who makes a "running" stubblefield coil is going to be king of the stubblefield mountain.

@Bill,
That package of diodes and geranimum transistors I sent to you last week, have you received it yet?

jim

lasersaber · « **Reply #3110 on:** February 19, 2010, 05:32:57 PM »

The guys that sell the wire do not know how many feet are on the rolls. This video showing my coil might give you an idea on how much wire you may need:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHPKSdRRPCQ

The coil in the video used two rolls of "125g 0.9mm Double Cotton Â£8.20"

After making the video I let the motor run all night. It was running a lot faster this morning after I got up than it was last night. I put a quick magnet wire secondary winding on it this morning and verified that it produces current on the secondary when the main coil is switched on and off. I need to get more magnet wire before I can do a proper secondary winding.

protonmom · « **Reply #3111 on:** February 20, 2010, 06:00:54 PM »

Laser,
I really liked your video. It was clean, clear, no jumping around with the camera. You are obviously good at filming. Now, could you please show us more of how you wound the coil? Did you use Stubbs exact patent, or did you make any changes? Did you soak the coil in water only, or did you add anything? In the vid it looks as though you were using only the 5 and 6 to produce elec. Is that correct? You said you also hooked up the sec and got power as long as you used the make and break on it. Was that sec power as good as the primary? Did it last as long? Could you please make a diagram showing how many turns, and layers etc were used on the coil? Also.... did you use a special iron wire? What was it and how does it differ from fence wire? Sorry for all the questions, but you seem to be the one who has the answers so I come to you for help. Help! Thanks!

resonanceman · « **Reply #3112 on:** February 20, 2010, 06:17:18 PM »

Here is a video that shows a guy using a make and break circuit like we talked about a few times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSTNVTEqwqg&feature=youtube_gdata

gary

Mk1 · « **Reply #3113 on:** February 20, 2010, 06:40:20 PM »

@gary

Nice find that would work , and if reminded me of a switch i found in a dollar store item , i will post soon.

This thing is looking better and better everyday.

Mark

electricme · « **Reply #3114 on:** February 21, 2010, 07:01:32 AM »

@ Lasersabre,

Congradulations on getting that small electric motor to tun off your stubblefield coil.
Wonderful achievement.

I have seen your Youtube video.

I would like you to do an experiment for me please.

lower the coil to the table, while the motor is running, then slowly bring a compas towards any of the iron bolt's ends.
What I want to know, is the compas needle vibrating?
Is one end favouring North and the other end south?

Hold a magnet in your hand, then slowly bring it towards the iron bolt, don't let it touch the bolt, I want to know if you can "feel" any reaction besides attraction or repulsion of the magnet from a distance.

Could you please post a drawing showing what wire from the coil, (inner or outer turns) which you connected to the motor.
Thanks.

Well done Lasersabre.

jim

protonmom · « **Reply #3115 on:** February 21, 2010, 02:51:43 PM »

Lasersaber,
In your picture above...MotorTest1.jpg....it looks like you have some kind of electrical tape as a covering over the entire coil. Is that what it is? And if there is no secondary, then why is there a covering over the coil? Wasn't the Stubb coil supposed to be UNcovered so as to be able to absorb moisture from the earth? Also, on that cotton covered wire...in the photo on ebay it looks like the cotton is flat and wider than the wire. Is that correct? How does that work with the iron wire, assuming the iron wire is bare? Is it hard to align the two wires so that they both lay flat on the coil so that you have even and smooth windings? If I buy this cotton covered COPPER wire, do I also need to buy cotton covered IRON wire to make all the layers even? Sorry for all the questions, but I would like to get started soon, so need all the info I can get. Thanks again.

guruji · « **Reply #3116 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:27:50 PM »

Hi Lasersaber very impressive; very good and intelligently build. Can you please tell us exactly how did you build that by a diagram?.
Thanks

lasersaber · « **Reply #3117 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:53:13 PM »

All,

I will give complete build instructions soon. I will probably do a video on building it with sources for all the parts. Right now I do not have the time. I going to be out of the country for a few weeks so all this will have to wait. I will try to answer all your questions when I get back.

protonmom · « **Reply #3118 on:** February 24, 2010, 01:24:03 AM »

Hurry back Lasersaber, and be careful! You carry important information with you! We will all be awaiting your return. Hurry!!!!!!

protonmom · « **Reply #3119 on:** February 24, 2010, 02:56:22 AM »

I was wondering about how to tell if a metal rod is soft or hard iron. I have read that if it attracts metal objects while magnetized, but then immediately lets loose when not magnetized then it is soft metal. So I checked all my bolts which remain, with which I had planned to make more coils. Wouldn't you know it... only one, well, maybe two, of the many bolts left are the right ones. Most of them barely held the metal while I had the magnet on them. But there is one, especially, that held tight and then immediately released when the magnet was taken away. So that is the one I will go with next. I wish I had thought of testing the bolts a long time ago. I know I am getting volts with the coils that are already built, but I think that if I had only had the proper bolt to begin with, I would be getting GREAT results with possible amps. My hardware store has plenty of the good bolts, so I guess that is where I will be headed this week. So all newbeez beware. Get the proper bolt! I guess I should have done the same with the wire too. I have been using fence wire. It seems to work, but once again, if I had the good SOFT wire, I will bet I would be getting some pretty good results! However, with my coils that are already made, I seem to be getting the same as everyone else. (With the exception of Lasersaber)

Anyone have any good ideas on what iron wire to use?

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Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications (Read 1726578 times)

Mk1

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