@ Resonanceman

Jim

I do not think the phase  could be seen with a meter
I think it would take a dual channel Oscope
WIth a channel on  each  leg it  would  be easy to see the phase difference
Just  power  a secondary  with some kind  of a signal.......maybe a JT....... and watch the  primarys


gary

If I can see an output on my meter, (and I can) so it can be seen.
I have an "extra coil" would over my Bibini SG motor, this I can meassure with my DMM, Analog meter, Scope, it tingles my fingers (ouch) and glows a neon.
Actually I hadnt thought of using a Bedini to make 3 phase. Just making 2 or more outputs, all I was describing was a different way to connect the output coils, either in series, or in parallel.

If someone wants to make a 3 phase Bedini, shure let em go for it, no probs here.
I might try this when I get more time, wind a trifilar 200 turns coil, connect all wires at one end, this becomes the "star" or NS connection, this leaves me 3 seperate free wire ends, I could make a 6 diode bridge to combine all outputs in to 1 single output (more curent).
Or feed this to 3 MOTs, now thats making my mind spin a bit ha ha.
 
jim

@ Protonmom,
Yep figured it out. Step 1 print this out.

OK, as you are a "new chum" to operating a cro, the 1st thing to do is explain the most essential items you need to know right now.
Don't worry about all the other fangled knobs or switches, except those I mention below.

Power Switch -------- press it to turn it ON, press to turn it OFF.
It will take a little while before a "beam" appears cause the tube has to heat up, best thing to do is "fire up the cro" make a cuppa tea, by then it's warmed up.

Intensity Knob ------- makes the beam striking the back of the scope, Brighter or Dimmer (like a TV control)
Focus Knob ---------- makes a sharp thin line

Position Horozontal --- You can move the "beam" to the left or the right of the screen
Position Vertical------ You can move the "beam" Up or Down 
                               wherever you "set" the Knobs, the "beam" will stay there.

OK, just 1 channel at a time, not 2 channels, too much to let sink in.

Input 1------This is called a BNC fitting, to attatch any of the probe leads you have there do this.
Grab the "black" probe lead, take off the twisty tie, and throw it away (just the twisty tie).
Grab the chrome plug end, look at it, OK, this fits over the Input 1 doova on the bottom left side.
Press the plug in, then gently twist it clockwise a smigin until it "locks" (you will feel it lock)

Head around to the power lead, some scopes have it inturnally conected, others have a seperate lead, grab the power plug, and plug it into the power socket and turn the wall switch on.

OK, go to the front of the machine, and give it a kick in the guts, Australian way of saying "turn it on"., press the Black Power Button.

(well its 1.03 in the morning here and I'm troppo).

Make your cuppa T.

OK by now there should be a pritty Green line or dot slowly moving from Left of screen to Right of screen.
Sit for a while and take a gander at it (gander means look at it) take your time, remember what it looks like.

Ok, time to take the plunge, GOOD, it's time to play scopes.
You need to get to know your machine, so have a "fiddle" with the Intensity Knob, make the beam bright and dim, turn the knob around a few times, it wont hurt it.
Next fiddle with the Position knobs, get the feel of them and see how using them you can make the beam do what YOU want it to do.

Now write down all the positions of all the switch setings, so you have a "benchmark" just in case you loose the "beam" so you can find it again.
Don't worry, every one looses "the beam" even the experts do, and I have lost it too.

A word of warning, the silly little beam is intoxicating, fasinating, magical, it will enlighten you and drive you to grrrrrrrr
 
For now that will doo cause I'm toooooo tired and silly for words.     

Hooroo all who read this and the owner.

jim 

Deleted so as to stay on topic

Hi guys when you're reffering to iron you mean steel or common iron. If common iron this does not rust in earth?
Thanks

Garuji
I believe we are supposed to have a little rust for the initial galvanic action, but then some people have said that when those batteries were dug up they had not rusted at all.  Must be in the way the coil is wound.

Thanks Jeanna, it is no problem if you can't send them.  At least you tried.

Jim,
Well, the more I look at that message, the more I agree with you.  I love a good coded message, who doesn't?  But you just might have something there.  I am going to spend some time looking it over and will let you know if I find anything.

Jim, I see all the little markers (lots of them) but I dont see the name Jason anywhere.  Where do you see this again?  On the original or the mirror?  I think there is a lot more to it than meets the eye, which I am currently working on.

I don't see "iron" either