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Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications  (Read 1726590 times)

wintermuteai1

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While any and all experimenting with the NBS device as with any device are great, please note that Stubblefield's "battery" was in the ground itself, and has been said to generate all kinds of power including somehow generating light from the earth that lit up the hills around it with light that was very like daylight. Raising the device up in the air may do something, but I will say again that it should go into the ground with a coil antenna attached and put that into the air. If you know Tesla this will make sense. :)
(you will need the secondary coil around the core however.)

protonmom

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Thanks Iota.  I remembered how it worked right after I got offline after the last post.  I did have to make an adjustment on the analog.

Also, it looks like I am going to have a little bit better reading on the coil in a few minutes.  I had noticed one of the soldered wires felt a bit loose, so I re-soldered it, and now the readings have gone up.  I am just waiting now for the meter to finish doing its thing, and settle on a number.

Then I will re-check the analog too.

I have the coil now up at about 6 feet off the floor.  The leads are long enough to reach way down to the meter, so no problem there.

Electricme, I hooked up the reedswitch/led with a battery in circuit and it lit fine, but I was wondering how Laser hooked up a reed without any battery at all.  I have not perfected my coil to that extent yet.  I am waiting on further instructions from Laser. 


I will post the results of the new reading in a few minutes.

protonmom

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Okay, this does not look right to ME now.

With newly soldered wire (maybe I should re-solder all the wires)
Digitals:
Etek.......A (under 20m) = 5.80      V (under 2) = .504 and rising  (I waited a long time before it got to the .504  It started around 8 this time.  It started oscillating at .503 .504 .505)

Innova.....DCmA  = 6.44              DcV  = .507

and newly calibrated analog meter
V~ (under 10) = 3       V-... (under 2.5) =50


Isn't that a rather big change for just re-soldering one wire?

Rapadura

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Very good work done here... This coil is really impressive.

Here we have at least a new source of "free energy" that might prove to be cheaper than solar energy...

conradelektro

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To ProtonMom!

I think your meter readings are very consistent (about 0.5 Volt and 5 to 6 Milliampere), well done.

What I would like to see are the following measurements:

First, you probably have four wires coming out of your coil: The beginning ends of the copper and the iron wire, which I call the inner cooper and the inner iron wire (because they are near the iron core of the coil). And then you have the outer copper and the outer iron wire (because they are on the outside of the coil where the windings end).

In the Stubblefield patent the inner copper and the inner iron wire are supposed to be left open, just sticking in the air or in the ground when the coil is buried.

The measurements you posted were (as I understood) done on the outer iron and the outer copper wire (which gave you about 0,5 Volt and about 5 Milliampere) while the inner iron and the inner copper wire were left open.

Could you please measure (Volt and Milliampere):

1) Outer copper -- inner iron (LaserSaber gets a rather strong electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

2) Outer iron -- inner copper (LaserSaber gets a rather strong electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

3) Outer iron -- inner iron  (LaserSaber gets a rather weak electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

4) Outer copper -- inner copper (LaserSaber gets a rather weak electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

Now I would like to see measurements when the iron and the copper wire are connected in series:

5) Connect inner iron to outer copper and measure outer iron -- inner copper.

6) Connect inner iron to inner copper and measure outer iron -- outer copper.

It seems that you have your coil and your meter at hand, therefore I take the liberty to ask you to do these six measurements.

In case some one else has a Stubblefield coil and a meter ready, I would also ask you to do the six systematic measurements suggested above.

Greetings, Conrad

Pirate88179

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Lasersaber has been doing a wonderful job here and should be commended.  Very nice work and great videos as well.

On the 2 coils I built, I always got the highest volts and mA readings from either the iron wire to the core, or the copper wire to the core.  It did not seem to matter which iron or copper wire I used. (Either end of the coil)

I have always wanted to try a ferrite core since all of our experiments in the JT topic and, one day, I will do so.  I am pretty busy these days trying to survive in this terrible economy.

Bill

IotaYodi

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Quote
but I will say again that it should go into the ground with a coil antenna attached and put that into the air.
That would be correct. The coil itself would pickup more of the telluric currents. It would be interesting to try 2 coils tied together with one in the ground and the other elevated. An 8 foot NS coil would also be interesting to try with one end in the ground. No matter how its done it seems the location of these currents is crucial.

jeanna

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Lasersaber,
It took me a while to first see your videos, then to digest a little bit of what you did.

Before I comment on the NS motor videos, I want to say I watched your very cool RC flying saucer  video. You have some really fun ideas.
I am also guessing that the little motors you are making are from your own manufacture?
Could you please describe how you made the little motor with the propeller?
I am asking how many turns and is the armature like the coffee cup motor... etc??
thanks.

Now, in the NS coil motor video, you show the reed switch connected between the outer copper (5) and the inner iron (10)  wire.
I saw how you showed with the compass how the 5,6 did not make any magnetic change there, but did you try the reed switch on the 5,6 and have it not work?
This is very curious.

I remember doing these compass things, but I did not think it was so weak across the 5,6.  I may be remembering this wrong, but I have the memory that the inner and outer gave similar results. I might have to dig out my compass-galvanometer again.

I love your ideas and I love how they are inspiring me to get back into the NS EER effort.

While I have your attention, I would also like to ask if there is any trick or need to match the reed switch to the NS coil or motor?
I have some very tiny reed switches and a reed relay from RS which I have never used and haven't much of a clue here, so thanks for any help.
(I think it was for the NS coil that I originally purchased the reed relay from RS, but never learned where to connect it, so I let it drop!!)

Thank you for your great work here,

jeanna

Rapadura

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I know my questions are mostly stupid, but I have to ask:

When the coil is submerged in water, and then removed from the water, it generates power during the time that it is drying up, right? For how many hours it generates power?

Another question: has someone tried to connect more than one of these coils in series and in parallel to check if the volts and amps are added?

This coil has a clear advantage over traditional Earth batteries (made with linear wires) in terms of space occupied. It occupies much less space, if the idea is to connect several coils in series and/or in parallel to get enough energy to run something like a small FM radio receiver, for example.

Pardon

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[A author=conradelektro link=topic=3500.msg233584#msg233584
What I would like to see are the following measurements:

Could you please measure (Volt and Milliampere):

1) Outer copper -- inner iron (LaserSaber gets a rather strong electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

2) Outer iron -- inner copper (LaserSaber gets a rather strong electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

3) Outer iron -- inner iron  (LaserSaber gets a rather weak electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

4) Outer copper -- inner copper (LaserSaber gets a rather weak electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)

Now I would like to see measurements when the iron and the copper wire are connected in series:

5) Connect inner iron to outer copper and measure outer iron -- inner copper.

6) Connect inner iron to inner copper and measure outer iron -- outer copper.

In case some one else has a Stubblefield coil and a meter ready, I would also ask you to do the six systematic measurements suggested above.

Greetings, Conrad
[/quote]
here are my tests just for your information.
1. same voltage and mamps
2. same voltage and mamps
3. 0 for both
4. 0 for both
5. 0 for both
6. 0 for both
my voltage is at .36 volts and the mamps are .21

I have tested my coil with a 1.20 volt battery attached to both the copper wires then to both iron wires. this was a test for the electromagnetic effect. this shorthing the 5 and 10 with a battery was the only way i could make an electormagnet. unless i used the 6 and the iron 10 shorted with a battery. then it also made an electromagnet. it may be this coil is just to small its has about 20 feet of both kinds of wire.

what i do not understand is how lasersaber can get a voltage across just one wire in his video he has voltage across the copper wire 5 and 10 and that makes an electromagnet, at least on my wires it makes one.

Dennis

conradelektro

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I am talking about the following measurements on a Stubblefield coil:

0) Outer copper -- outer iron (the classic way of using a Stubblefield coil)
1) Outer copper -- inner iron (LaserSaber gets a rather strong electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)
2) Outer iron -- inner copper (LaserSaber gets a rather strong electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)
3) Outer iron -- inner iron  (LaserSaber gets a rather weak electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)
4) Outer copper -- inner copper (LaserSaber gets a rather weak electromagnetic effect when he shortens these ends)
5) Connect inner iron to outer copper and measure outer iron -- inner copper.
6) Connect inner iron to inner copper and measure outer iron -- outer copper.
7) Any wire end -- core

So far we have learned:

Whatever the videos from LaserSaber http://www.youtube.com/user/lasersaber show.

ProtonMom measures about 0.5 Volt and about 5 mA in case 0)

Pirate88179 measures best results in case 7)

Pardon (Dennis) measures about 0.36 Volts and 0.21 mA in the cases 1) and 2) and nothing in cases 3) to 6).

May be the proud owners of Stubblefield coils could do some more measurements? It would be nice to be able to compare results. I know, I should build one myself instead of bothering others to do measurements. I will, but it would be helpful to build on the experience of people who already have coils. That is the purpose of a forum.

Wintermuteai1 wants a secondary winding on the Stubblefield coil (I guess as shown in Fig. 4 in patent US600457), the coil placed in the ground (I suppose together with the secondary) and a coil antenna in the air. How should the coil antenna be connected to the Stubblefield coil? May be the coil antenna should be parallel to the secondary? What is a coil antenna?

Greetings, Conrad

guruji

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Hi Lasersaber impressive video nice nice. I would like others to experiment with bifilar copper and Fe and see the results too.
Another thing when using coils it is very good idea that you have an orgone generator near cause who knows what would go out of these maybe it would emit harmful frequencies.
To do an orgone generator it's very easy just resin;aluminium filings and other metals if you want and crystals in a small winded coil.
Thanks guys.

protonmom

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To do an orgone generator it's very easy just resin;aluminium filings and other metals if you want and crystals in a small winded coil.
Thanks guys.

Garuji, You are right.  I have some TB's (not for tower use, but for my health) and the other day I brought 8 of them into the room where I was doing my experiments on the coil.  Not only did it remove any and all smells from the coil, but it also affected the magnetism of the coil.  So I had to remove them again.  I will use them if the smell is strong again, but I don't want them messing up my readings...so now they stay out of the area.

On the testing of coils.  Yes, I can do tests on my coils, but I have to do it on the days when my health allows. 

I, too, was wondering about hooking up several coils together for my Volts/Amps.  The pics of Stubbs always shows many coils together...so maybe that is his secret.  Just start making as many coils as you can, preferably all the same size, I would imagine.  Then bury them together.  Would it make a difference if they were buried inside a box, or do they need to be actually touching the earth to work?  Anyone know?  I keep thinking of the picture of the Stubblefield farm where all the coils were in a crate.  Did he insert the entire crate into the ground, or did he remove one coil at a time? 

IotaYodi

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it may be this coil is just to small its has about 20 feet of both kinds of wire.
Thats not much wire at all. A question to you and all NS builders. Is there any other coating on your wire besides cotton? What size wire? I wouldnt go with anything less than #14. Upping the size to #12 or #10 would be more suitable. The larger the coil and magnetic field, the more power that can be generated. Ive tried to find a company in the states that sells plain insulated cotton wire but its all custom order. The brillman company has cotton braided wire but it has a pvc coating also. Its $30 for 100 foot of #14. They do have 500 foot rolls in various sizes. A custom order will be higher with a minimum length you can buy.
 Someone correct me if Im wrong here. You would get the direct current flow on the bare copper to the cotton. If its pvc insulated your only getting the induced current on the wire from the field collapse and not on the cotton. 2 exact coils would have to be made,one with pvc and the other only cotton,to see if there is a big difference. I think there would be. 
 @guruji : I think thats an excellent Idea.

IotaYodi

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Would it make a difference if they were buried inside a box, or do they need to be actually touching the earth to work?
The coil has to remain damp. As far as direct burial I think that would be better but its still dependent on the locations intensity. NS has stated this.