@padda,
Welcome to the forum peter.

hello @all.

i've read this thread for a while and build an earthbattery with
2 simple CU-Pipes with a diameter of 22mm and a lenght of 1.50m and some zinc Pipes (diameter 25mm and a lenght of 0,5 m)
I get 0,92 V at 0,040 A.
The Amps go fast down  to 0,005 A if I test ist with my meter.
It looks for me like a capacitator.

How much Amps did you get from your earth battery? And what is your setup?

Peter

No it's not a capacitor, it gives the impression of one because of its extreamly low output, so any "load" on the output makes it drop so quickly.

Nice to know you have read through the forum, well done.

You won't get too much volts or curent out of just 2 pipes, if you want to increase voltage and current you will need to make many many copper pipes, then connect them in series for voltage.

Place your copper pipe towards North, and the zink pipe to South.



If you want voltage and current, then you could connect several into series and parallel.

You will need to insulate the outside of each copper pipe, and also seal up the bottom of the pipe. I used electrical insulating tape for this.
The highest voltage I got was 66volts open circuit voltage, using 83 copper pipes about 7 inches long, filled them with dirt, then put a zinc coated 4 inch nail as the center electrode. These were all connected in series.

I have had it arranged in a series parallel connection ever since that first week.

I was checking it just yesterday, it is still working after a year, but is much reduced in voltage. I pulled out the zinc nails in 7 cells, they are now corroded and rusty, so there is a galvanic reaction with them, not to worry, it lit a white LED for a year non stop, so I'm not complaining.

So Peter, if you want to make Stubblefield coils, then stick around here with us all here.

jim



   

To Jim (electricme) and all Stubblefield coil builders!

I looked at the photos of your new coil attempt (the cut out disks) and the following came to my mind (see also the attached picture which I fabricated with information I got from you lately, thank you very much again):

From the ratio of 1 / 2,4 (radius / height) I calculated

radius 3 1/4" --> height 7 3/4 " (needs 1650 feet of wire for the primary)

radius 4 1/8" --> height 10" (even more wire, it scares me to calculate the length of the wires)

To pedda !

As I see it, the best coil in this subject (thread) is the one from LaserSaber (go back to 213 and look at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcjxA7bYUp0). But still, it would not drive a Joule Thief and the coil is still to small judged from the photos in the attached picture.

Many things are unknown, specially the answer to the questions "how to make a Stubblefield coil work" and "what to do with a secondary"? See my recent posts where I attempt to come up with the right dimension of a Stubblefield primary coil. I have yet now clue about the dimensions of a secondary besides the secondary in the photo with the Stubblefield coils on the couch.

Many speculate that a Stubblefield coil is not used as a galvanic battery but like a plug into the earth, but do not ask me what that should mean.

Try that for a start: http://www.hbci.com/~wenonah/history/nathan-s.htm

A big problem when experimenting with Stubblefield coils is the huge amount of wire necessary to build one as big as I estimate they have to be (at least a diameter of 80 mm ~ 3 1/4" and a height of 190 mm ~ 7 3/4", but even bigger would be better according to what I guess). We are talking of about 500 meters ~ 1650 feet of wire and more.

To say it in one phrase: nobody has built a Stubblefield coil that works as reported in vague stories from Stubblefields time and it is not known how to connect the ends of the primary and the ends of a secondary in order to get some usefull electricity out of such a coil.

But that should not keep you from trying. (Small coils are a waste of time).

Greetings, Conrad

I think, that JT needs DC-Voltage. But the earth current is AC

The telluric currents are pulsed dc. The jt needs steady dc.
 As it was mentioned a while back, a full bridge rectifier should be used to measure the output of the coil.

The calculations for the number of turns in the picture above are for #18 wire. A larger sized wire will reduce the amount of turns. I cant tell if the coil on the left has wire or not on it. Even so it looks like a large core.

Pirates earth battery scope shot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBAU4HAMfs

Jennas earthquake scope readings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJoPspdYyYU

Jennas NS coil scope shots.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfwMFrqGtaE&feature=related

One of the reasons I have waited,other than monetary, to build an NS coil is the statement by NS granddaughter on the use of pitchblende. NS did this in different locations and it worked though. If he didn't prepare the ground thats a plus. Another factor to consider is Radon which is radioactive also. Radon is a decay product of uranium, which is relatively common in the Earth's crust, but generally concentrated in ore-bearing rocks scattered around the world. Soils containing granite or shale have a higher concentration of uranium. NS lived in such an area.
 Now Im wondering if it could be wired up like a Scalar coil.


 

@lasersaber

Hi great work again , i was wondering if you used one pair to turn the motor rotor , and the other one seem to act like a secondary on a transformer.

Could you put a bridge and charge a cap from that loose coil , will it stop the motor?

I was wondering if you tried it ?

Mark

Jeanna:

Excellent video!

I really like the use of PVC in your device.  Now you have a reed switch running, so, there is no stopping you.

Bill

Jeanna:

Excellent video!

I really like the use of PVC in your device.  Now you have a reed switch running, so, there is no stopping you.

Bill

Thanks, Bill

Yup,
The next thing I want to do is wrap a secondary around it and look at it with the scope.
This will be run by the 1.2v battery and not a self created galvanism, but it will show me what o expect from the secondary.
I can't ever keep my focus on counting turns, or rows, but I think there were at lease 60 turns and 6 to 8 rows on this one I made yesterday. so, it will give me an idea.

@jim,
Hi... nice to see you again!

Thanks for that info.
Sharing good info is always a plus for every one.
Thank you,

jeanna

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tDX85ZK14Q&playnext_from=TL&videos=_7BN2CF9X1c&feature=rec-rn-2r-6-HM

Check out this MIT early wireless telegraph demonstration.  A solenoid within a solenoid and 2 spark gaps powered by 12 volts.  The 2nd spark gap has a spark of about 9" long!  This could easily be related to the NS coil and make/break idea as it was just about in the same time period.

Bill

Lessee 90,000 volts for each 1.7 inches. .....
---------

I agree.
This is kind of what I was thinking when I said Stubblefield used the inside of that silver globe to catch a brief spark then let it go. I didn't realize then that the spark was unlikely to let go once it connected.

---
I just made a 20T secondary for the coil and got 2.9v in spikes from it. (That's with 1.2v input from the battery.)
I cannot get the frequency on this for some reason. The scope shows the one spike at the left edge of the screen and moving the screen doesn't move the spike, so it is there but I don't know the frequency.

I would like to make this secondary coil connect like a center tap... like a jtc, but since I cannot take any part of it down, this will make it a slow going.

Hopefully I can find a stubblefield that fits near enough to run the motor and switch.

More later!

jeanna