LaserSaber, I know you are busy, and I hate to be a pest...but could we get a drawing of how you made your coil, and how it is hooked up to produce the energy to run your fan?  Thanks.

Wintermuteai1 wants a secondary winding on the Stubblefield coil (I guess as shown in Fig. 4 in patent US600457), the coil placed in the ground (I suppose together with the secondary) and a coil antenna in the air. How should the coil antenna be connected to the Stubblefield coil? May be the coil antenna should be parallel to the secondary? What is a coil antenna?

Greetings, Conrad

Greetings Conrad,
As far as the Coil antenna it is probable that experimentation will have to be done as to how and where to connect the coil antenna. If you examine NBS patent # 887357 you will see examples of coil antenna attached to the "earth battery". You can also infer from photos of NBS. It is my opinion that any antenna should be attached to wires 5 & 6 with the secondary coil to the load, however it is possible that a multiple of ways could be used. It is likely that with an antenna in the air and the "battery" in the ground unknown amounts of current could develop and a spark gap or other devices could be made use of. Since Stubblefield and Tesla were associates, and in looking at Tesla's radiant energy patents it seems likely that Stubblefield came up with a way using this "battery" in coupling with antenna and perhaps tuning coils etc to collect vast amounts of energy from the vacuum/zpe/radiant etc. Since testimony can be read that he not only powered an entire town, radiated from the ground light that appeared as sunlight, and even provided heat to his small home via two polished metal plates facing each other (which were tied in to his device). This is very interesting to note because if you have researched Tesla, you will note that Tesla discovered a myriad of effects when he timed his apparatus via spark gap with an electromagnet(he tried various things even rotating mercury SG). For example:

Trains of impulses, each exceeding 0.1 millisecond duration, produced pain and
mechanical pressures. In this radiant field, objects visibly vibrated and even moved as
the force field drove them along. Thin wires, exposed to sudden bursts of the radiant field, exploded into vapor. Pain and physical movements ceased when impulses of 100 microseconds or less were produced. With impulses of 1.0 microsecond duration, strong physiological heat was sensed. Further decreases in impulse duration
brought spontaneous illuminations capable of filling rooms and vacuum globes with white
light. At these impulse frequencies, Tesla was able to stimulate the appearance of effects, which are normally admixed among the electromagnetic energies inherent in sunlight. Shorter impulses produced cool room penetrating breezes, with an accompanying uplift in mood and awareness. There were no limits in this progression toward impulses of diminished duration

Therefore, it can be seen that Stubblefield and Tesla both achieved similar results. So we can see that the "earth battery" device is a radiant/zpe collector/converter and that other things such as antenna and tuning coils, along with most likely spark gap with precise timing is how stubblefield achieved the numerous effects that numerous witnesses witnessed at the time.

A source for reed switches  http://www.meder.com/reed-switches.html
http://www.meder.com/index.php?id=2965&tx_ttaddress_pi1[country]=220 (US representatives)

Can also be ordered from Farnell , order code 1079468  http://www.farnell.com/ (costs less than 1 Euro).

Be aware of the fact that a reed switch can only switch about a 1000 times per second ( 1 KHz). The coil can therefore only swing with up to 1 KHz in case you use a reed switch.

Reed switches also bounce (not a clean on / off). But the massive coil might just absorb the spikes like a choke.

On could build a commutator on the shaft of the rotor that shortens the coil several times per revolution. This could give frequencies up to several KHz but will also cause bouncing (not a clean on / off).

As LaserSaber shows in his video, the little rotor turns, so the reed switch switches the coil somehow. But is this enough to drive a secondary in a useful way? It is worth a try.

An other path would be to go for an oscillating circuit (resonance) by putting a variable capacitor on two ends of the coil and leaving the other two ends open (or shortening them, or putting a capacitor on each of the two ends). But this oscillator would have to be driven by some mysterious earth frequency (harmonic) if it indeed exists. This has been discussed in this thread and did not lead to a solution.

Greetings, Conrad

@Pardon:
Try something: apply current to the inner wires with say a battery, and then connect the 5&6 wires(outer) together and remove external current. With the outer wires still connected test the inner wires with your meter. Also perhaps try the opposite, apply current to the outer wires with the two inner wires connected and test the outer wires with your meter. Just curious.

Stubblefield Coil, Insulating Material

In patent US600457 Stubblefield describes four insulating materials (see attached snapshot from the patent):

1) Insulating material 8: each coil or layer of the windings is separated from the adjacent coils or layers by an interposed layer of cloth or equivalent  insulating material 8

2) Insulating material 9: a similar layer of insulating material 9 also surrounds the longitudinal core-piece 1 to insulate from this core piece the innermost coil or layer of the windings

3) Protective covering 14:  the solenoid or secondary coil 12 is of an ordinary construction, comprising a wire closely wound into a coil of any desired size on an ordinary spool 13 and in cased within a protective covering 14 of mica, celluloid, or equivalent material

4) Insulating material 15:  the spool 13 of the solenoid or secondary coil may be conveniently secured directly on the exterior of the coil body 4 between the heads 3 with a suitable layer or wrapping of insulating material 15, interposed between the spool and the body 4

Interpretation of the insulating materials used by Stubblefield in modern terms:

a) The insulating material 8 is the cotton cloth between the layers of the bifilar primary and the cotton cover around the copper wire. This cotton is not really an insulator, rather a conduit for water and ions for the galvanic reaction. Remember, the Stubblefield coil is supposed to be damp or wet.

b) The insulating material 9 around the core should not automatically be seen as cotton too. One could argue that the core should be indeed insulated, because one does not want a galvanic reaction between the copper wire and the core, only between the copper wire and the iron wire. One should try to completely insulate the core (including the parts sticking out through the wooden disks) with some lacquer (paint) or plastic material (e.g. shrink wrap).

c) The protective covering 14 (mica, celluloid or equivalent material) of the secondary would be the modern lacquer around the magnet wire used for the secondary, called enameled copper wire. The secondary is therefore also completely insulated.

d) The wrapping of insulating material 15 between the secondary and the bifilar primary should also be really insulating, may be one uses some plastic sheet. But this is not very important because the enameled copper wire of the secondary is insulated by its lacquer.

Subblefield coil as a resonator (see attached drawing):

Imagine a very crude switch (e.g. a pointed steel nail tipped to a little steel plate). This crude switch will bounce like wild and has some similarity to a spark gap (a spark gap was the usual switching element in those days, they did not have transistors).

Connect a steel nail witch a piece of wire to the outer copper wire of the primary coil and a little steel plate with a piece of wire to the inner iron wire of the primary coil. The nail should be insulated with some tape near the head so that you can touch it without being part of the circuit (you would be a capacitance). By touching the steel plate with the tip of the nail you can now switch the coil be hand.

Imagine doing Morse code with your nail on the little steel plate. Whenever you shortly touch the steel plate with the nail tip a few sharp spikes will be produced and these spikes will ring the primary, which in turn rings the secondary, which should then do a few spikes with a higher amplitude. It will be like striking a bell with a hammer (the bell is the secondary and the hammer is the primary switched by your nail). It is also a replication of a telegraph as used in those times, the ends from the secondary leading to a receiver which has a coil to reproduce the Morse code as magnetic pulses driving a lever.

One has to experiment to find out which ends of the primary coil have to be switched by hand with the nail (outer copper to outer iron, or outer iron to inner copper) and what to do with the free ends of the primary coil. One could put a capacitor (with Pico Farads or Nano Farads) on the free ends if one speculates that the primary should ring a few times when shortened by hand with the nail.

Greetings, Conrad

@ conradelectro,
Thank you for your well made discription of the building materials on the stubblefield coil.
I have one question, which is, how would one bend mica without it snapping? I am referring to the mica which is used in those old toasters of years gone by.

Maybe there is a process avaliable to make it soft, I know the old Birko soldering irons used rolled mica as insulation.

@ lasersaber,
Now why did I not think of using colours to isolate the different wires as you have shown above,     that coloured diagram is way easier on the eyes than just the black and white monochrome ones, excellent work.

jim

Hello all
I have made many tests today after adding a secondary to my coil. so far i have nothing to report that is of any use but it has failed. i can not see any voltage on the secondary. it may be to large of wire size and not long enough. it about 25 feet long.

going back to the ls video. this has been bugging me all day. i have done everything i can do to figure out how to get a voltage across a wire to display on my meter. without adding some kind of resistance, or increase of power. so i am thinking if he did not add anything to the coil but he can display a meter reading either volts or amps. then something in the coil it self is making this change. so i am asking is this one of the stublefield secrets of the coil.

also i am thinking my center bolt may not be as soft as i thought it was. and that may be why i do not have very good readings.

one of the positive things i found out was , if i pulse the coil then stop pulsing it the voltage stays in the coil and slowly gos down taking about a minute to get back to normal. so it is acting kinda like a cap.

In LS video doesn't he tell us there is no voltage but a magnetic field set up?
I have gotten voltage from my secondaries, so I do know it works.
I never saw it til I had my scope, however.
It is a spike.
(This is why I personally had to stop with this coil until I had done much research with spikes through experiments on the joule thief.
Remember I used a NS coil as the toroid in a jtc, and it worked splendidly.)

So Dennis,
I suggest you pulse the 5,6 with a scope on the secondary wires.
If you do not have a scope, you might not be able to see this spike. A dmm cannot sense most of the good spikes. But maybe they can sense a hand pulsed one.
If no scope try this:
Make a bridge rectifier (or buy one) and put a cap across the output leads and measure the output that the cap can receive.
I guess you need to pulse it for a minute.
Use a cap from a disposable camera for this job.

This will only prove to you that it works.

We are, again dealing with spikes.
I personally think this is what we need to address. = How to get something from voltage spikes without amps.

The really cool thing about LS motor is that, like the bedini motor, it is turning something on a shaft, and this can translate to something we know how to use.
I am waiting for a small motor I just bought that will get my hands making a motor driven by a reed switch. Once I have made that I am sure I will be able to translate it into this NS coil motor etc...
http://www.simplemotor.com/rsmotor.htm

thank you,

jeanna

Big question! What are the dimensions of a good Stubblefield coil? (For some reasons I do not understand, I did not find any clear specifications of the coils which have been built by the posters in this thread. Height, width, number of windings, dimensions of the wires used, dimensions of the core?)

Let’s do some calculations based on the Stubblefield patent US600457. Of course one can not be sure whether the dimensions in the figures of this patent are accurate. But let’s take the figures as they are, we do not have more at the moment.

See the calculations in the attached drawing.

Greetings, Conrad