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Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications  (Read 1725998 times)

Pirate88179

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Jeanna:

One thing Jim and I were discussing a while ago was how to determine "soft iron".  We figured that it would not be too hard to test various materials by winding a few turns of insulated copper wire around them and doing the same sort of test that you have done. The big difference here is that you will not have already wound all that wire on your NS coil yet.  5 or six turns of wire and run by a 9 volt will tell you if it holds magnetism or not.  Might even work with an AA I am not sure.

I wish we could find some decently priced ferrite rods of suitable size as I am convinced that they would work well for us just like on our toroids with our JTs.

Bill

slapper

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tDX85ZK14Q&playnext_from=TL&videos=_7BN2CF9X1c&feature=rec-rn-2r-6-HM

Check out this MIT early wireless telegraph demonstration.  A solenoid within a solenoid and 2 spark gaps powered by 12 volts.  The 2nd spark gap has a spark of about 9" long!  This could easily be related to the NS coil and make/break idea as it was just about in the same time period.

Bill

Some time ago I was attracted to Stubblefield photos with rods sticking out of the ground from a thread on this site.
It looked like there are ringer bells at the top, then a coil, then another bell. The kind of bell you'd see on an old wooden
wall phone or candle stick ringer box. However, those old phones had the cranks. Haven't found any cranks on any
Stubblefield phones.

Take care.

nap

jeanna

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Bill
I remember now, that Hans told us that an antenna would work.
I bought a thrift store radio with an antenna shortly after that.
But, I never made a NS coil with it. I made one with a straw, and I think the antenna will fit.
Maybe I can find all these things.
It has been 2 years since we did that.

But, my kit came with a nail which was soft iron.
We both used nails in our bedini cores.
I wonder if the hardware store would mind...
Welding rods are pretty thin, but so is that nail/
I am thinking out loud here. I guess I can use one of these welding rods.
I could buy some without the borax too.
That would be easier than chipping it off.
I'll go put one out in the rain. Maybe that will work.

I did get some of that cotton covered wire.
I am sooo glad the wire in this reed switch motor is the same gauge as the cotton covered wire I bought.

Maybe it is time to read the patent again.

jeanna

dcc

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Hey I found some old iron bolts on ebay if anyone is interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-22-Vintage-Black-Iron-Carriage-Bolts_W0QQitemZ130303984925QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Tool_Work_Holding?hash=item1e56b9051d

They look like they would be good to use as coil cores...

Doug

IotaYodi

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From my research on Soft iron.
"The "soft iron" variety is almost pure iron, with up to 10% silicon. The 1018 has been the most common throughout the world."
 The bolt that NS used was problably the same or close to it.
I found that the 1018 has the lowest amounts of other materiels.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/alloycat.cfm?alloy=1018

I went to my local machine shop but he didnt know the specs on soft iron. He gave me a 3/4 inch foot long piece and a short 4 inch piece to try out. I put the short piece on 2 Microwave toroidal magnets over night. Took it it off and it wouldnt even pick up a tiny steel washer. I dont know if this was 1018 or not. I then put galvanized iron wire on the magnets and it did pick up the washer a little before it demagnetized in a few  seconds.
 Heres something I did playing around with the 3/4" 4 inch piece of steel. I took the 2 toroidal magnets and put the 4 inch rod through them. I then took 2 C battery's and put one on each end of the bar. Put my meter on it and got 3 volts. One battery alone with the magnets shows the 1.5 volts. Without the magnets I didnt get any voltage. I thought that was interesting.

Pulsed Dc FYI
As soon as you add inductance to a pulsed DC circuit you almost always end up with some current of the opposite polarity due to the flyback effect of the collapsing field.
One should also note that the flyback effect does occur if you DC pulse a transformer, you will end up with some AC current.


 

lasersaber

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The soft iron cores I used were from : http://sargentwelch.com/soft-iron-rod/p/IG0038157/

13mm diameter x 15cm long

They seem to work fine.

I now have my secondary coil working and lighting LEDs.  I will post a video soon

lasersaber

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Here is the video of the new coil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuQGuXJ02fo

Bruce_TPU

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Here is the video of the new coil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuQGuXJ02fo

Congratulations...very well done! 

It would be interesting to see for how long it will run, before needing to be moistened again.

It will also be interesting if more power is garnered by placing it into the ground.

Could you measure the voltage and current also, pls? 

Thanks and really, an impressive build.

Cheers,

Bruce

jeanna

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Bravo!

Well done.

I got my wire, and I am ready to make this too.
Do you have a scope and can you say that the alu wire works better?
It would sure be nice to use aluminum instead of iron if it really is better.

But, you did make the one with iron, and I wonder if that works at all?
Or, is that still unfinished?

You have really done a great service to the world.
Thank you for sharing it!


jeanna

conradelektro

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To LaseSaber !

Congratulations, amazing! Great videos.

Because it will be a bit difficult to have your reed switch and your disk with the four magnets under ground, I attach a drawing showing how one might do it with a solenoid above ground.

But I think you will have thought about that yourself. The trick with the solenoid can of course be tested with everything still above ground.

I would use very heavy speaker wire from the primary in the ground to the solenoid and from the reed switch back to the primary in the ground to avoid losses.

Greetings, Conrad

jeanna

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Conrad,
I think the inner copper and aluminum wires are connected and the outer wires are NOT.
Lasersaber said the connections worked exactly as Nathan Stubblefield said they would, so I think the names on the drawing are not exactly correct.??
Also,
NS said the other wires were to be left open. (the 10's or outer ones.)

Nice drawing, btw.

thank you,

jeanna

Rapadura

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Great! Now we have a device that generates electric current from thin air, presumably without consuming any of its parts!

In a cubic meter you can put at least 18 of these coils. How many volts and amps 18 of these coils can generate if connected in series and/or paralel?

jeanna

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Thanks, Bill

Yup,
The next thing I want to do is wrap a secondary around it and look at it with the scope.
This will be run by the 1.2v battery and not a self created galvanism, but it will show me what to expect from the secondary.
...
jeanna

And here is a very short video showing the led lighting from the secondary of the reed switch motor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lspCPpbr88

This is certainly not as exciting as lasersaber's video, but it is helping me to understand the geometry of the thing.  :D
The light is flashing but way faster than this video would make you think.

jeanna

Bruce_TPU

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Great! Now we have a device that generates electric current from thin air, presumably without consuming any of its parts!

In a cubic meter you can put at least 18 of these coils. How many volts and amps 18 of these coils can generate if connected in series and/or paralel?

Ahh...best to test the "without consuming any of it's parts" first before presuming anything...IMHO

conradelektro

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To Jeanna: thank you for your explanation of the primary wire end connections. May be our Stubblefield master replicator, LaserSaber, can shed light on this toppic from his experience?

To all and Bruce_TPU: in case one considers the functioning of a Stubblefield coil as being a galvanic reaction, the wires of the primary will indeed be consumed slowly (by galvanic corrosion). And the anodic index of the metals used for the primary will play a role.

See: http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

From the anodic index one sees that gold wire (instead of copper) and beryllium wire (instead of iron) would be the best possible choice (for very rich experimenters), the anodic difference would be 1,85 Volt.

Aluminium wire and copper wire have an anodic differenc of 0,75 - 0,35 = 0,4 Volt.

Iron wire and copper wire:   0,85 - 0,35 = 0,5 Volt

Zinc plated wire and copper wire:  1,25 - 0,35 = 0,9 Volt

It seems that gold plated wire and zinc plated wire (1,25 Volt) would be a feasible choice for professional experimenters with a budget.

Of course all these speculations are mute in case the Stubblefield coil works in a very different way (not a galvanic reaction).

Greetings, Conrad (a very unprofessional experimenter with a limited budget)

P.S. I got sidetracked by the Joule Thief and its derivatives. It is nice when LEDs and light tubes flare. One has the impression of having achieved something. It also costs rather little to experiment with Joule Thieves (although a big coil for a GBluer-Slayer-Exciter needs 200 meters of thin enameled wire).