Im thinking this is from the electrostatic potential of the air as well as any magnetic field lines coming off the coil and any house wiring that might add to it. You are moving in a magnetic field possibly changing the field to an extent. If the coil is sitting on a wood table place your palms on it and apply pressure. Put your hands at different distances from the coil and see if it changes. Do this with your electric panel both on and totally off and take measurements to see the difference. I would be most interested in the readings of both with and without the Faraday. A little time consuming but the readings might be worth it.

Hi everybody,
 
Wow, I never thought this thread would take off so fast.  I will try to answer some of the questions that have been posted and share a few thoughts.
 
1. Some have seen my magnesium air batteries videos.  I would consider these a purely galvanic battery.  You build them with the goal of trying to achieve as much voltage and amperage as possible.  They can last a very long time when run as air batteries without using the salt water.  With the salt water they only last a month or so.  They have no electromagnetic effect so I do not consider them to be like the NS coil at all.
 
2. When building and testing a NS coil keep in mind that you are testing for the electromagnetic effect, not voltage.  I do not really care anymore what the voltage of the coil is at.  I had a guy come by with a scope and check the voltage of my coil in the live video stream while it was running.  It tested out at 50 millivolts with a back EMF spike of 200 millivolts.  I am hesitant to post these values as they were taken very quickly and should be taken again to reconfirm.
 
3. The mini coils are a side project that I did to see how a multiple coil arrangement would work.  I did not feel like building large coils, if the arrangement would not work well.  I did not expect them to work on their own at all because they were so small.  I was amazed when I detected some slight electromagnetic effects on my compass.  They ran really well when I first made and wet them.  Then I salted them and they completely died, as I expected they would.  Since then they have been showing some signs of coming back to life.  They ran for a good 8 hours or so the other day.  There is a slight possibility that I will get them working in a continuously running mode if I can get all the variables set correctly - rotor size, coil distance, reed switch placements, weight of the rotor, and iron core length, to name a few.   I am confident that I can build a large multiple coil arrangement that will work very well and do plan on building it in the future.  The coils will be the same size as the coil in my live video stream or larger.
 
4. I have built and tested way more NS coils then you could imagine.  Creating a working coil is not easy at all.  There are a ton of variables that have to be perfect.  If you follow my video build clips you should be able to do it.
 
5. Based upon my success I am inspired and have been testing enamel covered wire again.  In the past I have seen some pretty interesting results using plastic covered speaker wire with a wire of another type such as iron or aluminum.  Back then, I made the mistake of testing for voltage instead of testing it with a rotor and two reed switches.  The real break through for me was when I set my voltmeter aside and started just trying to get my rotor turning.  That is when I discovered the special effects that happen when using two reed switches.  Now that I have this extra knowledge, gained by real world experience, I am going back and doing some pretty interesting tests.

when i see a battery "ghost charge" voltage back up i dont link that to stressing of the plates. nor do i say its the plates stressing when my electrolytic caps charge themselves up to around 5V on their own.

to me this is the Earth's radiant energy doing this.. when using a Joule Thief with very low switching sensitivity it can be seen better, as the battery drops below switching voltage the LED will start to blink, because the atmosphere is brining its voltage back up automatically, until switching V is hit again and the cycle repeats. the LED will blink until the rate at which the atmospheric intake is not enough to overcome the low voltage in the battery and sustain a steady oscillation.

lets say i have a capacitor that sits on a table, and every 5 or ten minutes it has built up enough charge to turn a small DC motor for about one second. lets say i put 50 of these capacitors in a bank and had them running and idling all at different times. it could be possible for me to time their discharges just right, so the small DC motor turns almost consistently, just from the electrolyte within them atmospherically charging.

i believe the stubblefield is similar, but i do not know if i were to create a super large electrolytic cap, would it gather the same type of charge but proportionally larger? or would it still receive the same amount of charge as the smaller one. likewise with the stubblefield. however i believe since the Earth itself is so large an increase in the mass of our coil would also increase its reception.

If you have disks on each end of your core see if by applying pressure at each end inward
will change your voltage readings. Stubblefield had the advantage of using a bolt for the core
with a nut on the end. He could compress the iron/copper coil assembly by tightening his
bolt.

We know this should have an effect on the capacitance of the assembly. I'm looking into
these effects and how magneto restriction plays a role during polarity reversals.

A little over 2 minutes into lasersaber's '48 days' video he explains how polarity reversals
seem to help with effects: http://www.youtube.com/user/lasersaber#p/a/u/2/kbaub2kkkpA
Take a look at Lidmotor's 'scope shot' video he did for MK1.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Lidmotor#p/u/21/MGwylnFvfZo
We see that by adding charge to the coil a magnetic bias is set up to take advantage of
the polarity flipping characteristics.

Please take a look at a Wiegand wire and compare it to the Stubblefield assembly. When
the soft core polarity flips and causes the iron wire polarity flips an effect occurs that
can be picked up. http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3500.msg255762#msg255762

Although adding galvanic approaches adds to more interesting effects using insulated wire
isolates the galvanic effects and we can study and test other effects more clearly.

For example: During polarity flipping of both core and the helically wrapped iron wire magneto
restriction events occur applying a sharp change in mechanical pressure on the copper wire
sandwiched between the iron wraps. These are some of the effects I'm looking into.

Take care.

nap

I don't think I've mentioned before, the magnetic attraction is only at the 2 ends of the coil and not on the sides.

But if I touch the core on the end where I ended the windings with my finger the volts go up an additional .45-.50V

If I touch a wire or the core on the end where my windings began nothing happens.