Hi everybody,
 
Wow, I never thought this thread would take off so fast.  I will try to answer some of the questions that have been posted and share a few thoughts.
 
1. Some have seen my magnesium air batteries videos.  I would consider these a purely galvanic battery.  You build them with the goal of trying to achieve as much voltage and amperage as possible.  They can last a very long time when run as air batteries without using the salt water.  With the salt water they only last a month or so.  They have no electromagnetic effect so I do not consider them to be like the NS coil at all.
 
2. When building and testing a NS coil keep in mind that you are testing for the electromagnetic effect, not voltage.  I do not really care anymore what the voltage of the coil is at.  I had a guy come by with a scope and check the voltage of my coil in the live video stream while it was running.  It tested out at 50 millivolts with a back EMF spike of 200 millivolts.  I am hesitant to post these values as they were taken very quickly and should be taken again to reconfirm.
 
3. The mini coils are a side project that I did to see how a multiple coil arrangement would work.  I did not feel like building large coils, if the arrangement would not work well.  I did not expect them to work on their own at all because they were so small.  I was amazed when I detected some slight electromagnetic effects on my compass.  They ran really well when I first made and wet them.  Then I salted them and they completely died, as I expected they would.  Since then they have been showing some signs of coming back to life.  They ran for a good 8 hours or so the other day.  There is a slight possibility that I will get them working in a continuously running mode if I can get all the variables set correctly - rotor size, coil distance, reed switch placements, weight of the rotor, and iron core length, to name a few.   I am confident that I can build a large multiple coil arrangement that will work very well and do plan on building it in the future.  The coils will be the same size as the coil in my live video stream or larger.
 
4. I have built and tested way more NS coils then you could imagine.  Creating a working coil is not easy at all.  There are a ton of variables that have to be perfect.  If you follow my video build clips you should be able to do it.
 
5. Based upon my success I am inspired and have been testing enamel covered wire again.  In the past I have seen some pretty interesting results using plastic covered speaker wire with a wire of another type such as iron or aluminum.  Back then, I made the mistake of testing for voltage instead of testing it with a rotor and two reed switches.  The real break through for me was when I set my voltmeter aside and started just trying to get my rotor turning.  That is when I discovered the special effects that happen when using two reed switches.  Now that I have this extra knowledge, gained by real world experience, I am going back and doing some pretty interesting tests.

I got a new compass.

Magnetic response:
Dry: moves the compass needle when I pass the compass by each end.
One end likes North and the other end likes South as expected.
Even after I short the steel & copper wire together to 0mV (it moves up to at least 1mV after I remove the short)  there is still the same magnetic pull on the compass.

Cheap-o Faraday cage - I wrapped a cardboard box with aluminum foil with my coil inside.  I shorted the wire until there were 0mV and disconnected my digital meter for 2 minutes.  Upon reconnecting my digital meter it read over 2mV.  Nothing connected to the wires and coil was in the Faraday cage. Repeated this 2 times more with similar results.

Also I did not move anything around the Faraday box.  I sat still.  See next post for why I wrote this.

DonL

Thanks for the update here Don.  Love to know the answer to this. 

Also I did not move anything around the Faraday box.  I sat still.  See next post for why I wrote this.

Kindest regards,
Rosemary

Thanks for the update here Don.  Love to know the answer to this. 

Also I did not move anything around the Faraday box.  I sat still.  See next post for why I wrote this.

Kindest regards,
Rosemary

This is another reason why I'm focusing on testing the magnetic properties of my coil.

I would see the digital meter move from 10mV to 100mV when connected to my coil by just getting up from my chair and walking past the coil.

This was before and after placing the coil in the Faraday cage.

Also seen similar effects with just waving my hand past the end of the coil.

After shorting my coil for 30 mins the effect diminished so I have to do more testing.
It could have been just an anomaly of using digital meters.

Once I get a sensitive analog meter I will test this again.

But the compass would respond to the coil in all conditions, in and out of the Faraday cage, even when the meter read 1-2mV.  This is why I want to focus on the magnetic properties.

DonL

While this field shrinks, the field is passing by the secondary in the opposite direction, and I would think that the voltage measured at the same point would be -1 Volt, relative to the other end, again.

Im assuming Inductive kickback or Voltage spikes like in a relay. When the switch is closed current is flowing in the copper and there is a magnetic field around the copper. When the switch opens the coppers magnetic field is collapsing inducing a voltage spike of reverse polarity. This voltage spike is much higher than the source voltage. If this coil works in a similar manner then that would account for the iron core not being permanently magnetized in one direction. Once again the windings are equal or unity and I dont consider the iron wire as a secondary in this coil. Iron conducts current but not to the extent of copper,but its magnetic field is much more intense. 

I would see the digital meter move from 10mV to 100mV when connected to my coil by just getting up from my chair and walking past the coil.

This was before and after placing the coil in the Faraday cage.

Also seen similar effects with just waving my hand past the end of the coil.

Im thinking this is from the electrostatic potential of the air as well as any magnetic field lines coming off the coil and any house wiring that might add to it. You are moving in a magnetic field possibly changing the field to an extent. If the coil is sitting on a wood table place your palms on it and apply pressure. Put your hands at different distances from the coil and see if it changes. Do this with your electric panel both on and totally off and take measurements to see the difference. I would be most interested in the readings of both with and without the Faraday. A little time consuming but the readings might be worth it.

@lasersaber

Dont feel bad because it seems that nobody saw what you wrote here
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=9687.msg256892#msg256892

People are just eager to replicate.

Jesus

To Rosie.....you said to use a bifilar winding ,so have others ........but my understanding of a bifilar coil is to... wind two wires parallel....when finished connect the end of one wire to the begginning of the other.......leaving you with one start and one end...........lasersaber just winds copper and steal parallel.......two starts ...two ends.......am I reading things right or am I missing something ...........thanx shylo

There are 4 ends on a Stubblefield coil.  It is wound bifilar but the ends are all open.  How these are later connected varies but see Laser's videos to see how he connected his.  According to the patent, you end up with two 10's and a 5 and a 6.

Bill