Is this what you are saying here?

No. Im saying the standard galvanized or un-galvanized iron wire being used will not work indefinitely unless there is a reverse polarity applied to it stopping the permanent magnetization. In my mind even with reverse polarity, the higher carbon content will not give you the higher magnetic field intensity on collapse as with low carbon iron which would diminish the amount of current in the copper. From what Ive read 1018 low carbon steel has been the most common and is probably what Ns had in his bolt and possibly his wire. Lasers core is even superior to that. Something I question is how much reverse current compared to forward current is in the copper when its magnetic field collapses from its larger reverse voltage spike? 
 Standard Ac coils and devices use added silicone steel laminated cores for its superior collapse and intensity. But even the lamination's are high iron/low carbon with silicone added. That itself would influence me to use no less than 1018 steel for the core and the wire.   

My 3rd coil is same as 2nd coil except I used Distilled Water:
 one layer coil: a layer of cotton on core, one layer gal. steel wire, a layer of cotton, one layer bare copper wire, a layer of cotton.
I wrapped the coil in plastic immediately after removing from water to keep it wet.

readings:
  .100V   3:12PM  D1  1mA    9/26/2010
  .015V   8:22PM  D1 .5mA    Very little magnetic field - compass just moves 1/4 turn.
  .015V  12:05AM  D1 .5mA 
  .015V   7:23AM  D2 .5mA

I took the plastic off, water dripped off of the coil and the readings jumped to these.
  .480V   7:32AM  D2 2.6mA
  .500V  11:07AM  D3 1.1mA   Added plastic back now.

Conclusion: the coil was too wet.  I needed to let it drip a while before wrapping in plastic.
Even these new readings are a lot lower than with tap water.
Still almost no magnetic activity against a compass with distilled water.

DonL

I think that what @lasersaber did was to wrap the wires side by side instead of one over the other.

I could be wrong though.

I'm testing distilled water vs 2nd coil tap water.

Tap water is not pure water - it has impurities, chlorine, etc in it.
The impurities conduct the electricity, not the water.

Pure (distilled) water is a very poor conductor as these impurities have been removed.
The number of molecules of water that are dissociated is practically negligible, making the distilled water a weak electrons conductor.

Salt water is the most conductive.
When salt is added (NaCl) to the system, the conductivity of the system increases considerably.
The water not only dissolves the salt, as well as it dissociates the salt molecule.
The elementary sodium (Na) presents an excess electron and the chloride (Cl) has a strong affinity for electrons.
Consequently, after dissociation, the sodium loses an electron to the chloride, forming Cl- and Na+ ions.
The presence of these ions increases the conductivity of the water considerably.
The positive ions (Na+) migrate to the negative electrode (linked to the pole - of the battery)
and the negatives (Cl-) migrate to the positive electrodes (linked to the pole + of the pile).
The conductivity of the aqueous solution water/salt is proportional to the ions concentration in the solution.

Hi all ....I've been doing more exp...decided I would measure voltage as I wound coil to see if cross over (wires twisting over each other) made a big difference..... turns out that I can get same voltage out of 2" of straight bi-filar winding....as I can 3 layers ....2" versus 10' ....plus I get more micro amps .............can anybody explain this to me?........seems to me winding coils is a waste of time .....also made 5 of these straight coils ...hooked them in series ...they added .....plus the copper I used was off of a solenoid from a chev starter....so it was enameled....started with 2" length of enameled, wrapped in cotton,twisted galv steel around it.... still have to try hooking parallel to see if I can get the amps up........make sure to burn off the varnish .....get it good and clean ,only where connections are being made.........give it a try .........shylo

Hi everybody,

I just wanted to let you all know that I had to take down the live video cam as I had to use the computer it was hooked up to for other things.  I will be buying a new wireless webcam in the near future.  I should have a much better quality video stream.

The motor is still running.  It's been going for over 100 days now.

I wound a new large coil with 0.56mm Double Cotton Covered Copper Wire.  It does produce good voltage and over 30 milliamps but it has a very poor electromagnetic effect.  It can hardly even get it to spin a small light rotor.  I used about 500 feet of wire on it.  I have had an idea for awhile now that larger gauge wire might work better.  I am going to test this idea in the near future.

I have made some really amazing discoveries with NS coils working and Daniel Mcfarland Cook coils in the last few weeks.  I will post updates in the near future.

Hi Laser.  Thanks for the update.  Interesting point regarding the thicker wire.  Are you using the copper as a secondary?  Or a winding with only copper?  Can't quite understand this.

Regards,
Rosemary

Hi guys,  I've been reading here but posting nothing.  Mainly because I haven't yet got my coil wound.  Tardy hardly describes it.    But I've finally got the glue taken off and I'll hopefully get the ends done this weekend.  But have been really busy with one thing and another.

I'm intrigued to see that there's a growing consensus on the use of thicker wire.  I've long thought that the inductive/conductive value of any material depends on the mass associated with the material as well as the atomic structure.  So - to me it makes perfect sense.  Interesting to see the extent of the improvement in the voltages that Shylo shows between stranded and solid. 

Also Shylo - very interesting about the inherent magnetic bias of the steel.  But I'm with Bill on this Iota.  I don't think that there's any remanence in Laser's number as the two switches work in antiphase and that would need two induced fields.  A permanent field would rather work against this. I'd have thought. 

Don.  Thanks for doing that distilled water test.  I'm rather sorry to learn that we need those trace elements which are available in tap water as this supports the battery argument - partially.  But I'm still holding out for a closed system.  And I'll do a test without any water.  I don't actually hold out much hope here - but at least I'll find out.   

Such an engrossing subject.

Regards,
Rosemary

Hi Rose....and to all I was a bit premature earlier ....Ijust made .5v .5ma with 20 inches of galv wire ,20 inches of stranded uninsulated wire,....no coils, just straight wires twisted around each other with cotton seperating them....wetted with salt water.....wire was ~20guage.......I made 10 of these 2" long each .........5 in series,5 in parallel.....tried with thicker wire #'s were way low....tried with enameled wire #'s were higher than thick,but still low,.....laser .56mm ,what guage is this?....1 set of 2" length of galv&bare stranded gives .75v & 8000micro amps ....the amps seem to add but the volts only add in series alone....tried multiple arrangements.seems galv core ,layer of cotton,layer of copper ,but only single wire of galv as core............ sorry I'm not very good at descibing things ...shylo

I'm rather sorry to learn that we need those trace elements which are available in tap water as this supports the battery argument

In my experience distilled water works just fine.  If you really want to see something amazing use rubbing alcohol!

I am still worried that people are too worried about voltage and milliamps.  What you really need to do is test is how far away can place a compass and still pulse the needle and make it move on command.