Hi Rosemary,
Looking at the picture of your coil, it seems that your copper wire is very close to your steel wire. What are you using to insulate the two from each other? Are you using magnet wire?

Ted

Check your PM.

Saw the PM but missed this post.  Hi Ted.  The copper is already insulated.  I stripped it off my first winding - the intention to do one winding in nichrome - a layer of cling wrap - a second winding of stripped copper - then another layer of cling wrap - and so on.  But not only was it hell to try and separate the windings that they didn't short - but nor could I get the nichrome/copper mix in neatly.  The one was more 'on top' of the other.  Anyway that was my first abortive effort.  Then I decided to keep the copper insulation - which worked better but I kept knocking off those discs at either end.  Right now I've unwound the structure and am going to start again.  But I haven't got the heart for this yet.  I'll rather work on something else that's been left in abeyance for way too long.  And I'll get back to this after the weekend - hopefully. 

Fingers are cut - eyes are exhausted - and I'm generally joining the ranks of the war wounded.  I thought this would be easy.  I'm a cook - so I rolled the putty with my trusty wooden pastry roller - pressed out the shapes with a little tot measure that I use - used my small cruet spoon to ladle in the require iron filings.  Used cling wrap all over the place to keep things from shorting.  But then entered into a war of words with pratley's glue.  Right now I'm not in the mood to re-engage.  We're not on the same page.  And I can't seem to persuade it to do what it claims it can.  LOL

I'm now going to follow yours and Lazer's good advice and settle both ends of that argument before I tackle the middle bit.  And I first need to find some wood.  Still looking.  I don't have a saw to cut it.  But I have friends who do.  I'll get there.  Hopefully.   

Kindest regards,
Rosemary
edited

Guys - just by the by.  I think I'm the only one of us whose trying to guage the effectiveness of this device without water.  What I'm trying to do is establish if it's possible to generate enough potential difference in the windings to induce a current - which hopefully will turn the rotor - which hopefully will induce a changing electric field in the windings - and so on.  In effect I'm trying to find out how much of this relies on a 'battery' type effect or on an pure inductive effect.

And even if it is a 'battery' effect I'm hoping to establish if 'water' is responsible.  In other words - is the water molecule required for rusting or is it somehow being used as an electrolyte and is this the 'source' so to speak of the 'changes' - the 'energies' required in the electromagnetic interaction.  Certainly it's evident that water increases the measured voltage and amperage.  But if it can still work on really small values without the addition of water - then that would really be something.  However, even with the required water - it's not a train smash.  One can, presumably, make the coil pretty nearly air proof - which would stop the evaporation of water.  That way one would not need to keep dampening the structure. 

Just a thought.
Regards,
Rosemary

As far as I can tell, it's a battery. If Laser is getting a magnetic field, then most probably there is some imbalance in the currents in the windings. Any net current flowing in one direction of the windings would cause a magnetic field.
I'm in the process of drying mine out to see what it does. It's an interesting device, but I have another big project to complete before I can really give it some time.
Small guage wire will save your fingers and your nerves.

Ted

Nichrome is non magnetic so if your looking for a magnetic field collapse it wont work. Nichrome is 20% chromium which is toxic and carcinogenic. Not a high percentage but I would still wear gloves handling it. If there is enough current flowing in the nichrome it can heat up and start destroying the magnetic field in the core. 
Myself and others dont agree this is a battery when used in the ground. A battery is a source of power. When in the ground the telluric current's are the power source not the coil itself. This would make the coil a transformer or conductor of sorts. If the load on the coil was switched off a charge would still be present on the coil. Turn the switch on and the current flows again just like turning on a switch in your house.
 When the telegraph companys stopped using them they were dug up years later and they were still charged and putting out sparks. The coils were never put randomly in the ground. They found the telluric currents first and placed them there.
Magnetic fields are still foremost in my mind. We cant forget there are 2 ways to hook this coil up either. Each one needs to be studied separately. Questions that need answering. How the magnetic field of the iron wire is interacting with the iron core and vice versus. Is the magnetic field collapse on the iron wire creating the polarity reversal or is it the Voltage spikes on the copper wire or both. This is where good materiel's come into play.
It would be nice to have a proficient animator.   

Hi all just built my third attempt the first was on page 19 #270 I believe.....on the 1st one I didn't wet it got nothing.......the second one I used teflon tape as an insulator didn't wet it ethier...still nothing....the third one I took the time to stretch out nine feet of stranded wire equalling 15 awg.....wound the wire in cotton..then took a two inch carriage bolt 3/8 dia. and nine feet of electric fence wire approx. same guage ..........wound one layer of steel,.........layer of cotton cloth ,then a layer of the cotton covered strand wire,...... ended up with twice as many turns of steel,...because covering of cotton took up alot of space .....checked it dry nothing ...wetted it down ...after 10 mins it read 3.5mv....10mins after that 4.7mv.....10mins later 5.6 mv seeems to be holding at this value..........so I wetted down my first build......reads .7mv  ....see what happens over time........shylo

Great stuff Shylo.  Have you built that rotor?  I think - regardless of the measured voltage - it's quite important to check on the response of the rig with the rotor against the switch.  Not sure that I'm right here but laser keeps telling us to ignore the voltage and check it's response to magnetic fields.  I think?

Anyway.  Well done.  Have you got a picture for us?

Regards,
Rosemary

two hours later............down to .5mv on 3rd build 1st build at .4mv.....I noticed it's alot cooler now .....so I decided to heat coil with a blow drier....the volts increased every 3-4 seconds ....ended up at 16mv ...when I removed the heat the volts began dropping every 8-10 seconds held at 2.6mv for now ............then I tried wetting coils with boiling water...the volts jumped to 24mv ....but quickly started to drop back down.......hovering around 2-3 mv...........the boiling water did nothing for 1st .......so then I tried boiling water but with salt added.........volts jumped again in 3rd .......this time the dropping volts took longer but still dropped.......in my first build Idumped the now warm salt water on ....the volts went to 20mv and very slowly began to drop ....alot slower than the 3rd build.......can somebody tell me why the heat seems to produce more voltage.....and would more voltage  make for a stronger magnetic field..............thanx for any input..........shylo

can somebody tell me why the heat seems to produce more voltage

My best guess is expansion of the copper lowering the resistance. I think some type of thermal conductivity is also involved.   

and would more voltage make for a stronger magnetic field

I would say in general yes but the amount of current and frequency come into play.
With spark gaps a low voltage spark has a more intense magnetic field than a high voltage spark gap.

Iota - that was such a sweet link.  I've seen this before but here it's really well presented.  Many thanks.

Guys,  just something I've been considering.  Someone gave a link to a youtube number that was, effectively, a replication of laser's rig - but with one reed switch.  I've lost that link.  That guy had a far faster spin - and I couldn't understand his language so have no idea if he used moisture on the coil - or not.  Would be awfully grateful if someone could recover that link again and perhaps explain the test parameters he used. 

Laser's rig definitely has the rotor turning in one direction.  He explains this as a result of the push/pull synchronised emf from the coil.  The point is this.  As the rotor is only inclined to turn in one direction then there has to be some moment when the magnet is first attracted to the EMF and then that same magnet repelled - in short order.  If it was relying on repelling the second approaching magnet then effectively it would act as a brake to that spin.  In other words the rotor needs to be frequency dependent and dependent on those switches working in antiphase.  Begs all kinds of correspondences to the size of the rotor to get exact positioning of the magnets to line up correctly in phase with the switches.  Or does the switch determine the frequency and provided there's some spatial separation of the magnets then they 'fall in'?  In any event.  I can see that it would definitely be preferable to work off laser's actual sizes to keep some correspondence in these ratios.  I'll check laser's video again and see if I can find a size.  Else, laser, if you're reading here.  Could you please give an approximate diameter to that disc?  I'd be obliged.

Regarding the use of water.  I've asked a couple of chemists to comment.  Not yet heard from both but from the one I've been told that it's probably a battery.  I'm still of the opinion that water is simply a preferred medium for flux.  Water provides a very smooth field.  For instance I've heard it said that a bath of water is so smooth it could be argued that it's a single molecule.  Effectively therefore water would offer less resistance to flux than the rest of our atomosphere with its multiple disassociated molecules and atoms which would otherwise be the only medium through which it would pass.  I question that there is any actual electrolytic process going on.  Else we'd surely be aware of an accelerated drying process as those molecules disassemble. 

If it's simply required for this - for clearing a path, so to speak, for the flux - or for strengthening the flux fields - then we're still on line for OU.  Effectively it would then simply be a third element in that construct.  And it could definitely be structured that the moisture is retained in that environment on a relatively 'permanent' basis.  One would simply need to encase the rig in a plastic bubble of sorts and seal the ends against the coil - I would have thought?  The Laser generator - would then be just that.  NOT a battery. 

The only question I still have - actually there are loads.  I'll start that again.  One question I still have is this.  Are the collapsing fields the result of an interaction with only those three elements in phase with the switch - or does it also require some subtle interaction of the magnets on the rotor itself - to keep the inductive fields changing?  I know laser uses strong magnets and I very much doubt that any of that material will be isolated from the influence of those moving fields.  But there's a series of really complex events going on.  I agree with Iota.  It would be nice to get this illustrated in animation. 

Regards,
Rosemary

Ted:

I believe you are exactly correct. 

I was also thinking that the same thing might be accomplished using a small transistor, say a 2n3904, and a single coil near the rotor ala Bedini.  Sort of a solid state Stubblefield coil.  Of course, you would have to have the output to fire the transistor at or above its threshold but this should not be a problem.  I was getting 1.32 volts at 5 mA's on my second Stubblefield coil attempt.  More than enough to do the job I believe.

Bill