Well, from our reading it turns out that either the iron or the copper can be insulated with cotton.  Your results appear to disprove the completely galvanic idea.  I am sorry, I did not realize that this was what you were trying to do.

Nice going.  And, if you test for continuity I am sure you will see no connections.  Very well done.

Bill

Isolation with cotton does not at all disprove the completely galvanic idea. Let him do it with plastic-insulated wire and see what happens.

Isolation with cotton does not at all disprove the completely galvanic idea. Let him do it with plastic-insulated wire and see what happens.

He did.  He used mag wire for the copper which is plastic coated.

Bill

The patent says to insulate the copper wire.

I only used the cotton to insulate the ferrite core rod.

Enamel insulation that I used with my magnetic wire is as good as plastic insulation.  It is recommended to use enamel insulated wire on coils to allow for more turns being the insulation is thinner.  I don't have to repeat this test with plastic insulated copper wire.


DonL


PS - I can't find my compass so I can't test the magnet capabilities at this time.   

Hello DonL.  Thanks for the explanation here.  I would love to know if you'll increase the turns and how that changes the general efficiency.  ALSO.  Are you planning to build the rotor?

Kindest regards,
Rosemary

Guys - have being going into things in greater depth and in discussion with experts.  I trust you all realise FULLY that my training in all matters scientific is somewhat sparse.

Here's what I understand is the situation.  The facts are that the 'galvanic' effect is similar to the dosing of metals that enable a transister's bias.  It depends on an interaction of one metal type with another metal type - nothing else.  This establishes a voltage and that's the voltage drop that's been accounted for on our own switching circuit.  I really should have known this.  But once it's established - which is simply established by proximity - then that voltage remains unless - obviously - it's degraded or destroyed - over time.  It is absolutely NOT traditionally associated with a 'battery' and the most of those that I've spoken to have never heard of the Nathan Stubblefield 'earth battery'.  Until Laser started this thread - nor had I.

Then.  The fact is that Laser has exploited this effect in finding a way to generate a current from that voltage potential and, uniquely, uses it to generate enough current to move the rotor.  That's the 'departure' or 'variation' that is entirely Laser's contribution.  But the minute he gets the rotor to spin then we indeed have a generator

However, there is no question that the effect is enhanced when the surfaces are moistened.  But that's explicable.  Current is more easily enabled through a liquid than through the mass of the wires itself.  That's to be expected.  However, what is NOT likely to be happening is that the water molecules themselves are being changed.  Which means that we've effectively got a solid state potential to generate current and at no apparent cost to the material of the coil nor to the body of the rotor.  That's effectively a really elegant example of conservation of charge.

In Laser's first video example we have a combination of things.  The material has been doped with salts to degrade their coatings which puts the different wires in closer contact with each other.  This is obviously advantageous.  And in the deeper layers of the coil - where there may be some residual damp - there is, as mentioned the possible added benefit of this same damp condition that assists in the flow of current.  I get it that the iron must not touch the iron which requires some kind of material separation between the coils and I'm reasonably certain that one can apply any variety of materials to achieve this.  What I'm trying to point to is that the application of the 'cotton field' is only because it's likely to absorb water readily and it's understood that water will enable that current flow.  I don't know that it's required. But only further tests will establish this conclusively.

To my way of thinking - I am DELIGHTED with this variation of the Nathan Stubblefield Battery as I am now satisfied that it has been modified into LASERSABER's generator - which, apart from the reed switches - is solid state.  While it is true that the level of current flow is somewhat nominal - it is also then true that we potentially have something - albeit rather bulky - that is able to deliver energy potentially and, dare I say it, perpetually - rust and occassional shorting excepted.  That's HUGE.

I will be doing tests with my own material which will be assembled on campus - that I can exploit the considerable intellectual expertise available there.  I'll be starting the build on Monday - but may yet need to impose on members here to give a detailed schematic on the rig.  Bill?  Someone?  I'm still not sure how to join those wires and where to position the reed switches.  If someone with some patience could sketch this out clearly and exactly and post it here I think we'd all be most obliged.

I was hoping that Jet could help us by doing a build but he's time is entirely proscribed and unfortunately he won't be joining us. 

Regarding the need to get more energy out of it.  That's definitely required.  But as the rig is still scalable - then that's also resolvable.  It may seem somewhat bizarre to have a structure the size of a small garden shed lighting a couple of house lights - but we just need to remember how big were our early ineffecient computers.  To my way of thinking those hurdles will be resolved as time goes by.

As it relates to the solid state switching that we use in our technology - frankly I think this development is way more important.  I can, in any event, see a happy marriage between the two.  What I can do, which is of very real interest in this experimental evidence, is see some more justification for the thesis - which is always my overriding interest - especially as it relates to the potential to entirely conserve charge yet have current flowing.  I hope that Laser won't object to my using it for this. 

Regards,
Rosemary

He did.  He used mag wire for the copper which is plastic coated.

Bill

This has to be understood carefully. If the two wires ware insulated there shouldn't be any voltage when the circuit is open. Any voltage measured will be suspicious and has to be looked into very carefully, as I said. Moisture should be excluded also.

It is recommended to use enamel insulated wire on coils to allow for more turns being the insulation is thinner

On standard coils yes. The thinner wire is more for voltage than amps. The higher voltage can push more amps on a larger wire secondary. With standard "hot" electricity you cant exceed the wires ampacity. The thin magnetic wire may work on the NS coil but cotton should still need to be interposed. The dielectric of the mag wire insulation would be nice to know.
In Stubblefields day cotton,paper,and mica were the main insulators. If you use a standard pvc insulated wire you will add another higher dielectric and diminish the electrostatic charge buildup on the cotton. If you make this coil with magnetic and iron wire without the cotton and pulse it, then it will  still produce electricity but not on the scale as with damp cotton. I cant see it any other way myself.

Heres something else dealing with small voltages and amps. If your going to take definitive meter readings you may want to do this outside or a distance away from house wiring,and especially if there are fluorescent lights. Turning all power off works too. You are encased within a pulsing 60 hz electromagnetic field that does induce voltage as well as milli amps in a totally unconnected copper wire or device. Fluorescent lights with electronic ballasts really boost it. Even the electrostatic potential in the air can add to it. I have experimented with this and its in the Jt thread.

Sorry I just noticed that I'm repeating myself.  Yet again.  Apologies.

Rosemary

Hi Guys,

I've got a hollow soft iron pipe that's been bent into a circle and then cut in half.  It is also, just by happenstance the same size as the rotor that I had cut and designed by a genius engineer friend that I have.  I'll photograph this later.

I thought of simply packing that hollow with iron filings.  Do any of you know if this is likely to work - or if a solid core is required? Then the idea is to use that one half of the pipe and wrap it with copper and iron windings.    I'll try and photograph the components later today - time permitting.

What may be of interest is whether or not the bent pipe around the rotor may help spin that rotor.  I'll try and get a schematic to explain this more clearly and upload it with the photos of the pipe and that proposed rotor.

BTW the iron is cladded with something to stop it from rusting.  I'll try and find out what exactly.  But I intend putting the windings directly onto that surface. 

Regards,
Rosemary

Mix the filings with epoxy in a thick paste and fill the pipe up. That will work fine as a core.
You can also use a long bolt for the core. Any type of soft (mild) steel will do. Just wrap it real good with electrical tape before you start to wind.

Ted