BTW, has anyone noticed that this is similar to Steve Marks with the wire through the coil...

Or Coler
Or Markovitch
Or about 8+ others who have had FE or other weird effects from this and similar current through magnetic field orientations...

I have built the Kapagen device as drawn by romerouk and it does work as he shows. However we may be missing one important fact. The ground is an excellent conductor. If you draw out his circuit and tie the wires going to ground together you have a very poor way to conduct 2000 volts through a string of light bulbs. I will continue tomorrow but you may rest assured that it will light 3  100 watt bulbs much brighter than normal and will pop 3  40 watt bulbs instantly. My current going into a 900 watt MOT is over 25 amps measured with a fifty year old analog clamp meter.  Garry

I have built the Kapagen device as drawn by romerouk and it does work as he shows. However we may be missing one important fact. The ground is an excellent conductor. If you draw out his circuit and tie the wires going to ground together you have a very poor way to conduct 2000 volts through a string of light bulbs. I will continue tomorrow but you may rest assured that it will light 3  100 watt bulbs much brighter than normal and will pop 3  40 watt bulbs instantly. My current going into a 900 watt MOT is over 25 amps measured with a fifty year old analog clamp meter.  Garry

@Romerouk, Dragon, iflewmyown, Naudin etc

In order not to rush to unreal extraordinary results, the ones with the devices on hand should follow a short of procedure so as to indeed verify that the claimed input is the actual one.

With the spark-gap working, tit produces all short of oscillations HF that can distort measuring equipment at input. (I know first hand)

i suggest two basic solutions for dealing with that problem (I am sure guys more skilled int the art will say so menthing better)

1) The use of choking cores suitable at working 50Hz (relative high impedance) and choking higher frequency oscillations. So the measuring equipment to be applied after the input chokes
(diagram 1)

2) Another very simple way is after having roughly estimated the input (that you think it is - say 3 amps at 120volts) to verify it by putting in line with the wall socket a suitable power of incandescence lamps so as to work at 1/2 or 1/3 of their nominal current strength. For economy the bulbs could be 12volt. it does not matter.

So if the input is 3 amps (you think is is) flow to the MOT the incandescence bulbs will remain off, or at a low glowing (that you know by previous experimenting) meaning that your estimation is accurate. If the input is not 3 but much higher, then the incandescence indicating bulbs will be far more bright that your meter suggests, indicating More current.
(diagram 2)

PS: I do not want to play the smart (ss) here, but we have to extract solid conclusions.

PS2: Actually with a clamp meter, a transformer and some patience the solution (2) is pretty much accurate (because all shorts of currents ( higher frequency or not, true or imaginary) have same effect on ohmic resistance even undetected by normal measuring.

So by practicing a bit you could tell by looking the arrays of bulbs how much input flows to your device.

 

Hoxan:

Wow, that is nice!  I am kind of glad I don't have one of those as I would probably accidentally electrocute myself with it in under an hour.

Bill

Hi All,

It appears that this is the circuit JLN & romerouk are using based on what I can see from their videos and the information they have provided.

Thank you callanan for the schematic. 

Romerouk also mentioned he is using DC and a capacitor 90.02mf connected in parallel with the load.

"DC as the source to the system, diode and a capacitor connected to the MT output."

Regards, Mike R.

Hi All,

It appears that this is the circuit JLN & romerouk are using based on what I can see from their videos and the information they have provided.

Well done callanan, this is exactly the diagram used by me.
I have changed now for high voltage dc with benefits for the spark gap, not overheating... but brightness is not the same, lower by 20-30%

I have connected capacitors in parallel with the load (0.5 - 2uf), not 90uf as someone have stated here.I have to go to work now, I will do some more testing this evening.
I need to get some more bulbs...
I understand that someone else had luck with this design, I hope many others will replicate and come with new improvements.

Regards,
Romerouk