Many  to all who contributed to this.
Now we have a good schematics thanks to Ossi Callanan.

romerouk, how do you produce the DC ?
Do you use one way rectifier diode or graetz bridge at the MOT ?

What High Voltage cap do you use ?

I , why the ground wire from the MOT goes through the center and then
back to the MOT ?
This normally will result in canceling the magnetic field inside the back and forth wire,
as it is a  canceling bifilar setup, so I wonder if this is really good ?

2. Also as you use 22 turns CCW and then 84 turns CW,
so the 22 turns cancels a bit of the 84 turns coils,
maybe it is just easier and better
to use just 62 turns alone, so you only need 2 coils in total and not 3 coils ?

Many thanks.

, Stefan.

I am using one way rectifier diode with a 0.1uf capacitor, the same with your design you proposed me.
At the moment I am working to get the most from this coil arrangement then later I will concentrate to change the coil. The spark gap and capacitor values are my priority for today.
Now I really have to go to work. I will continue watching here at the office.

Have a nice day, all of you!

hello admin,

As far i can tell, Romerouk or Naudin do not use a cap for discharge at all. The only capacitance in the circuit is the stray capacitance of the coil and the MOT's. (too little) this makes the operation quiet since no cap-discharge-bang. (that's the interesting part fro me)

Concerning the cancellation of the B-flux for the two coils wound CW and CCW, despite initial appearances this is not happening. Since the current comes from the CW section and then returns from the CCW section, inductance is enhanced and not diminished. I have measured just to be sure.

ps: If you think about it, while we wound any solenoid, we go (eg) CW till reaching an end then we continue CCW till the other end, the again CW etc. The alteration of currents total vector in combination with wounding alteration makes no a difference.

Just look at the pic below. Suppose that we start winding the black coil from the far right part. When reaching the close end, and we continue winding the red coil without any change in our winding style.
Yet if you consider the red/black coil as the strting point, results the one (red) to be wound CCW and the black CW.
Interesting little thing...

Hmm,
I think you may be confused.

In your example there is only ONE winding direction.

CW means ClockWise and CCW means Counter Clock Wise.

SO in your example with the red-black coil you only have one winding direction.

Regards, Stefan.

Use a small mains toroidal transformer around 50VA-150VA anything will do like 240 - 12 0 12 etc and use the primary wired in SERIES from MOT to spark gap will acts as a choke ballast and severely limit the current and over heating. Spark will then run cold.  Some toroidal are crap and insulation will break down at 2kv but generally they offer better HV operation then standard frame transformer.

Also use another MOT in series with the driver MOT on mains side will acts as mains Ballast to drop surge currents. OR use motor RUN caps in SERIES with the mains and tune these around 15uf worth to get lowest current draw. With capacitor tuning  it adjust power factor to match load you can HALF the current to MOT easy.

TO stop bulbs burning out use Glass Discharge Tubes GDT's rated 10 amp 250 volt and wire across every bulb and load to prevent over volts.


Across the large KAP coil add plenty of uF may need 150uf use motor RUN caps run several in series to handle the voltage this will drop HF towards 50Hz operation will stop bulb flicker and allow to run other devices like large transformers and large AC motors.

Its better to use this KAP device to run large 3-7 HP   3 phase AC motor in Rotoverter Mode which will provide ultra clean stable power 3kw-5kw  50-60Hz at 120 - 240 single or 480v single and 3 phase anything you want basically. Its cheap cost only couple hundred bucks at most. Rotoverter is already OU device and will IMPROVE whatever fed into it unlike normal motor.

This is by FAR the cheapest way to get this power cleaned up and stable for house use on electronics devices etc. All fluctuations, noise, voltage and phase problems solved.

Okay, I repainted the circuit diagram from Ossi with the additional
diode and HV cap from user romerouk.

Here it is.
ALso I included the question in red, if these 2 wires through the center
this way make any sense ?

Maybe the guys, who already have this setup can test it, if it really
brings this way some more output power or if the ground must be connected somewhere else ?
Regards, Stefan.

Wouldn´t it be better this way so you really have an induction with the loop
going through the center ?

Hello,

yes this seems to be the right winding. From a whole view the coils is just a single coil in inductance terms. (See Admin?)

But viewing them as separate ones (with point of reference left to right as they are wound), they are CW (many turns), CCW the lesser tunrs and CCW the thick few turns.

Hm. I thought you did not use a capacitor fact that made far more interestng for me. So you indeed use a capacitor.

Excuse my persistance, but i should re-mentioned that then input of the MOT should be accuratelly measured with methods i mentioned earlier. (previous page)
For someone following this thread, it is of no secret that me and others (madsatbg etc) managed to have a 80-90% of power conversion from a cap-discharge scheme to lightbulbs.

The capacitor is used in parallel with the load, that is the case when powering system with high voltage ac. It works ok without it but it kills the bulbs very easy. Having the capacitor connected it cancels some of the spark i get inside the bulbs.I think the solution is not high voltage ac, system is more stable and controlable using dc.That was my first attempt.I can see already more advantages using High Voltage DC.
Sometimes 'logic thinking' kills the  good results.It's been proven to me many times. Not everything works as we learned already.It is good to try even ilogical ways.

Hi Ossie

Thanks for the notice

I looked back to jl Naudin picture on his site and it seems that winding is inverted at the end on the right part of the coil. But not sure.

for the left part it not visible.

But perhaps romerouk can explain which winding is correct

thanks

Laurent