Author Topic: Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations (Read 410819 times)

protonmom · « **Reply #945 on:** August 05, 2009, 02:22:31 AM »

Thanks Jeanna, but remember what I said? I can see photos if and when they are posted to the forum, (as long as they are not too huge...but cannot see any graphics or pdfs that I have to download. And I cannot see any videos at all. But that is okay...I can go to the library to view them one of these days. I do appreciate you taking the time to make them. I will get to the library as soon as I can.
Now, guess what I have been doing all day? I had to completely tear apart my new coil and start over. There was a short, and I still don't know just where. But it is a good thing I had to tear it apart to fix that, because I found out that Stubblefield was right when he said no cover on the iron wire. I had used that interfacing, and boy what a mess that was trying to re-do those wires. I ended up having to use all new iron wire. And I had already run out of the interfacing, so I had to leave the wire bare on this re-make. The good thing about that is, my readings were higher already at only the first wind layer. I am going slow and winding as tight as I can and keeping the rows as even as possible. I sure hope it turns out okay this time. I would like to see some evidence that I actually made the thing work for a change.
Thanks again for making the videos.

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #946 on:** August 05, 2009, 03:01:11 AM »

protonmom:

In the 2 coils I built, both of my wires were bare. According to what we could determine from the patent back then, it seemed important that the wires be insulated from each other, and the core. The way I wound mine using the cotton string in between and the cotton layers under and over top of each layer accomplished this.

So yes, I agree that if you insulate from the core, and just insulate the copper wire (or the iron wire) so there are no shorts, it should be fine. As long as moisture can get through all of the layers and to all of the wires it should work.

This is what I remember about it.

Bill

Cap-Z-ro · « **Reply #947 on:** August 05, 2009, 03:34:53 AM »

It just hit me after reading your post Bill...I wonder how the coil would conduct if was moistened with oil before planting.

As a matter of fact I would say crude oil would likely be best as it is of the earth.

Just a thought.

Regards...

the_big_m_in_ok · « **Reply #948 on:** August 05, 2009, 06:23:12 AM »

Cap-Z-ro said:

Quote

It just hit me after reading your post Bill...I wonder how the coil would conduct if was moistened with oil before planting. As a matter of fact I would say crude oil would likely be best as it is of the earth. Just a thought. Regards...

@Cap-Z-ro & all others,

Old style transformer cooling dielectric oil was often made of some kind of "mineral oil" or sulfur hexafluoride(SF6).

Adding oil may or may not improve efficiency of a Stubblefield system? If it was originally used as an insulating dielectric? Does someone have a definite answer one way or the other?

--Lee

dllabarre · « **Reply #949 on:** August 05, 2009, 06:23:33 AM »

When creating a regular earth battery (not a Stubblefield coil) is it best to use solid rods or tubes (pipes)?

Thank you,
DonL

the_big_m_in_ok · « **Reply #950 on:** August 05, 2009, 06:27:24 AM »

Quote from: dllabarre on August 05, 2009, 06:23:33 AM

When creating a regular earth battery (not a Stubblefield coil) is it best to use solid rods or tubes (pipes)?
Thank you,
DonL

I used solid wires of different materials. Creative Science(fuellesspower), I believe(?), used rods in at least one of their earth battery designs.
It could be either way.

--Lee

jeanna · « **Reply #951 on:** August 05, 2009, 06:55:14 AM »

Quote from: the_big_m_in_ok on August 05, 2009, 06:23:12 AM

Cap-Z-ro said:@Cap-Z-ro & all others,

Old style transformer cooling dielectric oil was often made of some kind of "mineral oil" or sulfur hexafluoride(SF6).

Adding oil may or may not improve efficiency of a Stubblefield system? If it was originally used as an insulating dielectric? Does someone have a definite answer one way or the other?

--Lee

The patent is the authority here.

It is water. The ground must be moist.
There needs to be a small galvanic "current"" going on.
I imagine the patent is offered on one of the first pages of this thread.

US pat. #600,457

"a novel voltaic couple... while at the same time producing in operation a magnetic field...inductive effect to induce a current in a solenoid or secondary coil." Page 1 lines 38-48.

It is a very interesting patent to study.

jeanna

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #952 on:** August 05, 2009, 07:10:50 AM »

Quote from: Cap-Z-ro on August 05, 2009, 03:34:53 AM

It just hit me after reading your post Bill...I wonder how the coil would conduct if was moistened with oil before planting.

As a matter of fact I would say crude oil would likely be best as it is of the earth.

Just a thought.

Regards...

Cap:

I don't know. On the one hand, the oil would displace the water which may be bad. On the other, if the oil works as well, or better than the water, it would be "moist" a lot longer. All I can say is, give it a try. That is the only way to know for sure. It is a good thought. Water does not conduct and is a dielectric, just like the oil used in the transformers. Now, ground water, with all of its impurities, is a decent conductor. I have no idea of which way it would go.

Bill

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #953 on:** August 05, 2009, 07:13:01 AM »

Quote from: dllabarre on August 05, 2009, 06:23:33 AM

When creating a regular earth battery (not a Stubblefield coil) is it best to use solid rods or tubes (pipes)?

Thank you,
DonL

Except for in the very beginning of my experiments, I have used solid materials. I have seen that the solid materials, having more mass and surface area, delivers more amps. (mA's actually) So, my vote is for the solid stuff. I hope this helps.

Bill

oscar · « **Reply #954 on:** August 05, 2009, 12:41:34 PM »

Hi protonmom and all,

I have also started to wind a NS coil.
Using enamel coated copper wire (= magnet wire) and galvanized iron wire. Plastic sheeting as insulation between individual layers of the coil.

After having wound ca. 6 full layers i tested it (with the view of adding more additional layers later).
When I put it into water the readings were not encouraging (compared to my experiments with similar size rod-in tube cells).
It seemed clear to me that I had not done it right.

Kind of desperate I soldered a non-insulated piece of copper wire to the open copper end (10) of the NS coil and let this hang into water as well.
Voltage and current readings went up noticeably.

So I conclude that when Stubblefield wrote of "insulated copper wire" he was really talking about the 'cloth insulated wire' of the time, i.e.
I think the copper has to also be in contact with the moisture/water. So the wire is not allowed to be properly insulated in the modern sense of the word.
Again: The more bare/unprotected copper surface there is, the higher will be the current and voltage reading, according to my findings.

Will have to redo the coil with bare copper wire, employing just some spacing material to prevent contact between the copper and iron (don't know how to do it yet).

It will be interesting to hear about new findings of protonmom.

PS: I don't think the better readings with bare copper are due to galvanic effects or electro chemical degradation of the metals. There is something else happening.
Water molecules are dipoles. They oscillate, responding to the earth magnetic field and the NMR oscillations of the metals, making an ideal carrier for the resulting fields (field changes) emanating from the two dissimilar metals ....

dllabarre · « **Reply #955 on:** August 05, 2009, 02:49:12 PM »

Quote from: Pirate88179 on August 05, 2009, 07:13:01 AM

Except for in the very beginning of my experiments, I have used solid materials. I have seen that the solid materials, having more mass and surface area, delivers more amps. (mA's actually) So, my vote is for the solid stuff. I hope this helps.

Bill

Thanks Bill

@All

Anyone using a magnesium rod, where did you buy it?
I've only found 1 online supplier and they only have 12" magnesium rods.

DonL

dllabarre · « **Reply #956 on:** August 05, 2009, 03:01:44 PM »

@Oscar

"Will have to redo the coil with bare copper wire, employing just some spacing material to prevent contact between the copper and iron (don't know how to do it yet)."

I've read where people wind a spacing material along side the copper and iron wire. Something like heavy string or plastic line from a weed eater. They then remove the spacing material after the copper and iron wires are secure.

copper wire / plastic line / iron wire / plastic line

This will evenly space the copper wire and iron wires from eachother.
Of course it's not easy to wind 4 items at the same time but if it was easy then everyone would have one.

I'm wondering, if you use string or small rope that is the same diameter as your copper and iron wires, if you could leave it wound because it will hold moisture keeping the copper and iron wire wet?

Has anyone tried to leave a spacing material that holds moisture in place?

DonL

the_big_m_in_ok · « **Reply #957 on:** August 05, 2009, 04:39:36 PM »

jeanna said:

Quote

The patent is the authority here.

It is water. The ground must be moist.
There needs to be a small galvanic "current"" going on.
I imagine the patent is offered on one of the first pages of this thread.
US pat. #600,457
"a novel voltaic couple... while at the same time producing in operation a magnetic field...inductive effect to induce a current in a solenoid or secondary coil." Page 1 lines 38-48.
It is a very interesting patent to study.
jeanna

Very good, jeanna. You're right. The Creative Science plan I had strongly suggested to soak the ground with water around each wire for greater current output. Dry ground would get you less, even nothing. They said water it regularly; every two weeks at least.

Here's the patent, #600,457:

http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=Q19NAAAAEBAJ&dq=patent:600457&as_drrb_ap=q&as_minm_ap=0&as_miny_ap=&as_maxm_ap=0&as_maxy_ap=&as_drrb_is=q&as_minm_is=0&as_miny_is=&as_maxm_is=0&as_maxy_is=

--Lee

IotaYodi · « **Reply #958 on:** August 05, 2009, 05:54:50 PM »

Quote

I have seen that the solid materials, having more mass and surface area, delivers more amps. (mA's actually)

With the same diameter the tube would have more surface area. You would think you would have more potential with a tube which you may. But!
Electrons basically flow on the surface. If you increase the current they go deeper into the wire causing resistance which heats up the wire. Thats already a fact. In my mind its always been about surface area to increase the potential. What I overlooked is the electromagnetic field itself. In a rod it would be more focused and could make the energy flow more efficient. Even using pointed rods may be better. The higher potential materiel's is a plus as well as mass to get more out.
The big question for me is why no one has duplicated Stubblefield to the extent he did. It all leads back to him and the existing environment and conditions he was in. Its really peculiar how he died.

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #959 on:** August 05, 2009, 07:12:34 PM »

Quote from: dllabarre on August 05, 2009, 03:01:44 PM

@Oscar

"Will have to redo the coil with bare copper wire, employing just some spacing material to prevent contact between the copper and iron (don't know how to do it yet)."

I've read where people wind a spacing material along side the copper and iron wire. Something like heavy string or plastic line from a weed eater. They then remove the spacing material after the copper and iron wires are secure.

copper wire / plastic line / iron wire / plastic line

This will evenly space the copper wire and iron wires from eachother.
Of course it's not easy to wind 4 items at the same time but if it was easy then everyone would have one.

I'm wondering, if you use string or small rope that is the same diameter as your copper and iron wires, if you could leave it wound because it will hold moisture keeping the copper and iron wire wet?

Has anyone tried to leave a spacing material that holds moisture in place?

DonL

That is exactly the way I wound my coils. I used cotton string the same dia. as my iron and copper (bare) wires and left it in place as I believed it would hold the moisture just like the old cotton insulated wire of the old days would have.

I wound the wires bifilar first, and when each layer was done, I then wound the string in between the wires which requires two passes per layer. I never wound more than 2 layers tho so at 12" long x 2 layers, it is a small coil.

Bill

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Author Topic: Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations (Read 410819 times)

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