The big question for me is why no one has duplicated Stubblefield to the extent he did. It all leads back to him and the existing environment and conditions he was in. Its really peculiar how he died.

I agree with what you say and I want to add he also used materials available at that time, like the cotton insulated wire which we can't seem to find today. (It is available at high end stereo shops BUT it has a layer of teflon or plastic making it no good for this application)  I believe if we had that same wire now, a lot of us would have much larger (much easier to wind) coils with decent outputs.

Bill

With the same diameter the tube would have more surface area...
 Even using pointed rods may be better. The higher potential materiel's is a plus as well as mass to get more out.

good point! 

The big question for me is why no one has duplicated Stubblefield to the extent he did. It all leads back to him and the existing environment and conditions he was in.

I personally stopped last year because I had reached my limit of understanding.
I had to absorb the information I had gained from my experiments. But I needed the joule thief and its thread and all the helpful people to start to understand what I had learned so I could move forward.
It is not at all surprising to me that we never got very far.
I do believe it is all right there. I do not believe he used an undisclosed switch. I do think we have lost information that was so commonly understood that no one ever mentioned it.

This idea struck me when I read tesla's lecture to the EE's in london in 1892. He referred to a "common inductor coil"

What is that?
That is the kind of thing we have lost. It was the basis for our electrical system, yet we do not remember what they did with an inductor or other things like it that were so common.

===

I have made most of my coils with 360 turns total. That is 180 turns for each wire.
The silk did make a better coil.
I suspect that it is because it is sooo thin that the wires can be very close together as oscar has explained so well.

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The key to the wetness issue is in the word moist.
I used to live on the east coast.
The soil there never really dried out. I think KY is similar. There is a little rain every 10 days at least. Often once every 5 days. And there is moist snow all winter. The moisture there goes very deep.

Here in the west coast the climate is called mediterranean. I quickly learned that this has nothing to do with warm mediterranean temperatures, but only to do with the seasonal nature of the rain.
There is a rainy season and dry season.
I must water once a day or 2 in the summer because in the summer there is no rain for 3 months.
Just try to imagine no rain for that long and what that does to your soil... to your earth battery.

Stubblefield said the ground needed to be moist. If you had a rain recently and your ground is moist, then do not add water.

Does this make sense?

I do believe we are adding to the progress from last year. I would not be here to repeat what I did last year.

thank you all,

jeanna

I will let my probes go dry. I see there is a 20% chance of rain on thursday. After that, if it does rain, I will clock the dryness effect. I will surely be able to clock the wetness effect in another 2-3 months 

There is something else we have not really dealt with, but it probably won't make a difference if we talk about it. That is the amount of iron in our soil.

Bill, since you have always had a higher reading than I have with not exactly comparable probes  , I am wondering if you know the iron content in your soil?

jeanna

Pirate88179 said:

I have always had higher mA's and volts in very dry soil.  When it rains, everything goes down, the dryer the soil, the better my numbers. 

Okay, that something I hadn't heard.  It seems we're thinking of different types of systems.  I was using heavy wires shoved into the ground about 6-10".  What are you doing?

--Lee

I am using, on the north meridian, two 1" X 9" long carbon rods.  On the south meridian, I have a 5 pound block of magnesium wrapped in a bag full of potash.  The angle of the depth of the mag. block and the bottom of my rods via the distance separating them (about 15 feet) matches the magnetic dip angle for my area.

Bill

Why 2 carbon rods?  Are they together or separated and each connected to the same Magnesium block (which is what I was thinking of trying)?

How do I determine the magnetic dip in my area (upstate NY)?

Thank you,
DonL

How are your 3 wired?
2 carbon rods wired together for the positive and 1 wire from the magnesium block for the negative?

Also I can't get a Frequency reading on my earth battery.  Is this normal?  The frequency keeps jumping around on my meter.
I verified my meter is OK by checking MAINS frequency at 60 Hz.

DonL

Hi everyone.
This is dataloging but it is Stubblefield and I do not want to complicate the datalogging thread with un-plain things, so I am posting them here.

The ground is drying. One of these has 0.28vdc but it has plenty of the activity I saw with moist ground.

6 pix follow.
I will put them together for comparison so notice the caption says "both" at the end of its name when both NS coils are connected, otherwise just the one on the south is and the north is just the carbon rods.

jeanna