and the battery is always at 4.11 volts and the supercap voltage at 5. 84volts (climbing)

much above the nominal rated voltage of 5.4 volts

Laurent

@All

Don't try this at home...Normal capacitors have zero tolerance
for voltages above their published working voltage. Not 10%
but zero V above their WVDC. Their dielectrics punch through
and they become electrically leaky. They start to conduct dc
current then heat up. Generally, capacitors don't fail in some
friendly manner either. Supercaps, I don't know. Your PMM
is going to need some crowbar circuit protection against
capacitor overvoltage. It's definitely not a "Put it somewhere
running and forget about it" sort of thing.

:S:MarkSCoffman

@woopy,
Great setup, and great work!
BUT....
Not a good choice to leave it running to overcharge those caps.  Mscoffman is 100% correct here guys, this is not a set it and leave it situation.  Woopy, your committing a form of circuit suicide here, lol.  If you are not awaken by a similar sound to a gun shot when a capacitor explodes, then you may want to check all your components for damage.  I do not recall your exact circuit setup, but at the very least if one of those caps fails, you no longer have a recovery circuit running so you most likely have been pounding your components with high voltage if the motor continues to run.  Sorry man, sometimes we learn lessons the hard way.  Good luck!

On a good note, I'm excited!  I have been digging really deep and hard to find me an oscilloscope to order.  I finally found one and it's on its way!  It's a pretty good, old scope.  Tektronix 50MHZ 2 channel, and I got it for $60 after shipping!!!  It was from a seller that did not know how to use it or even really what it was.  I instructed him how to run a couple tests and he sent me pictures of it, so I know it is in good working condition!  I can finally see what my circuit's are doing pretty soon when it comes in and stop guessing, lol... Now I can get back to work on my projects!  Hopefully I'll have some more data to post soon.

Congrats CP. Looking forward to learning heaps from your scope shots. I'm trying a motor out of a recharable torch. Don't really want to resort to gearing up. See how we go. edit: Got into trouble from the Grandkids for pulling apart their fave torch. 3&7 yo just don't get the whole overunity thing.

Good morning all

still alive and no gun shot during the night

and the motor spins hapily

battery at 4.07 volts and supercap at 6.65 volts. I suppose it is not good for the 5.4 volts rated supercap so i stop the game and will order stronger magnets.

But any idea why this happens ?

regards

Laurent

You got lucky buddy....  Good thing you stopped the run, I was getting worried it was going to turn out really bad.  As far as why this happens, I think you are referring to the fact that the cap loaded up at a higher voltage than the run battery.  If this is what you are referring to, then you must realize that when the switch is opened and the magnetic field collapses, it collapses with a higher voltage but lower current.  Sort of a natural transformer if you will.  It is not uncommon for low run voltages to charge caps up over 50 volts using collapsing fields, sometimes WAY OVER 50 volts.  Just depends on the setup.  Your setup may be doing extremely well and could be very efficient, but please dont make the mistake of thinking because the capacitor charged to a higher voltage than the run battery that there must be more total energy coming out than what you are putting in.  Capacitors tend to be kind of lossy, and the actual energy in a capacitor is quite difficult to compare to the actual energy in a battery.  But using the proper equations, E=1/2C*V2, you can very accurately tell how much energy is in a capacitor.  A battery is just not that easy to measure, and a volt meter can lie to you when measuring them especially when a surface charge is present.   It's like comparing apples to oranges.  But sometimes that's just what we have to work with.  Keep your head up, and keep rolling forward!  Your bringing in some great data here for us all to kick around.

....
1 -with the single Hall sensor and circuitery    the Hall circuit consume from itself under a battery at  4,2 volts about 7 milliamp  and when i find the right Hall sensor position the ampmeter shows NOTHING more than the basic circuitery   difficults to say because the amperemeter flickers between 6.4 t0 7.6  but anyway very very low  ?  This shows that without the circuit consumpton  the motor could work with ALMOST NO  current ?  OUCH ?

Hi,

If you use the schematic shown in your post here
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8731.0;attach=42071 then I think you could increase the 1 kOhm resistor up to even 4.7 kOhm in the collector of the 2N2222 to reduce the average 6-7mA current to 3-4mA or so  (the 1 kOhm if it really 1 kOhm,  directly shunts your battery whenever the 2N2222 is ON). 
Also you may wish to select some TL4905 for less current (their data sheet says their typical current draw is about 4mA and the max is around seven, manufacturing tolerances).

What are your coils DC resistances now, I cannot recall? (I know they are +-+-+-+- in series.)

Thanks for the cap data.

rgds,  Gyula

@Gyula

thanks a new time . Effectively the amps went dow almost by the half with  4.7 kohm resistor at the collector . Can i try higher resistor value or will it destroy the transistor ?

My tle 4905 is rated at typical current 3 to 7 max miliamps , do you know better one ?

What is this circuit that Tropes mentionned in the above post, do you know it ?

the resistance of all my coils in serie is 55 ohms and the inductance 39 mh.

Now to the last result

I connected the motor to a 12.2 volts (lipo) battery and positionned the Hall sensor to works in attraction mode (it works also in repulsion) 
the motor consumes 10 Milli amps

than i connected a full wave bridge (not shottky) and got a very strong flyback spike. (pix 2)

than i connected a big cap 10000 micro F 100 volt to the bridge. And there the cap charges up to 50 volts  in half an hour and went up to 56 volts.(pix 1)

the charge consume a lot of miliamps very shortly (some seconds)  until the cap was at 12.5 volts than until the 56 volts   charging process DO NOT TAKE ANY MILIAMPS  at the motor as if the cap nor bridge was there. I tried to diconnect the cap than the bridge and reconnect it  and the amps stay  at 10 miliamps  steady   The charging process uses only the flyback spike.
pix 3 shows the "wide" usefull  spike  of 2ms

 Very interesting what do you think ?

regards

Laurent

hi all

i could set the current at a steady 7 miliamps and the big cap charges to 55.4 volt.

For info with the 12.2 volts battery, the Hall circuit alone consumes 5.6 miliamps   that is to say that the motor itself uses 1.4 miliamps (7-5.6)  and it spins happily at 453 Rpm and can charge a big cap to 55,4 volts.

Not too bad for a crude  wobling CD, some market coils and old HDD reading head bearings and neo ring magnets.

regards

Laurent

Yup, your doing great.  You can see what I was saying about how it's not that difficult to charge a cap to 50v or more if your using flyback voltage.  The reason it charges so fast until it matches your induced voltage is simply because of the generator effect of your motor, and the run battery voltage.  But after it climbs over the normal generator voltage, and the run battery voltage, the rest is all flyback voltage.  In a sense you are sort of just filling that cap with the run battery, the generator, and the flyback until it goes over those voltages.  Then flyback only, (hopefully with a bit of added BEMF attached!)  You should have noticed the rpms speed up the higher the voltage on the cap rose until it went higher than the generator voltage also.  At this point, you really are no longer converting the kinetic energy of that rotor to electrical energy anymore, your simply catching the flyback from the run pulses.  If you wish to keep making use of that spinning rotor, you could dump the cap back into the battery once per revolution or so, or maybe use a zener diode.  Then you would not only keep catching the flyback voltage, you would also keep using the motion of the rotor as a generator to keep your battery charged longer. But you would of course still only make use of the generating voltage if you chose a run battery that was less in voltage than what the generator puts out.  The rpms will go down a bit, but you will keep recharging that run battery.  Just a thought.

Ok tried a couple of diff motors last night. I have 3 multimeters but I don't trust any of them anymore I think I have to go & buy a Fluke. Anyway the voltage off the motors is 2.5v but I used my tongue multimeter & there was no buzz so I don't believe the amps are much even tho my analogue meter says they're around 1A.

However using the torch motor I successfully recharged the torch battery. So if I can do that, I should be able to get the charge back into the running battery? Am I doing it wrong? I simply have a diode between the positive of the generator & the battery & the ground of the generator going to the ground of the battery. Thanks.