Author Topic: Circuit setups for pulse motors (Read 270460 times)

bakercool · « **Reply #300 on:** January 04, 2008, 07:36:13 AM »

NOOO!!!!!!!

I just finished reading your last thread! 18 pages!!!!

After reading them all, I feel like I know you guys. Anyways, this is my 2nd post (1st one was on the last thread). Good job guys, when I get a chance, I'll try to cover these 20 pages. I think you guys are awesome, and really like the idea about using the excess power for Hydrogen. Hopefully talk to ya soon.

Corey

Ren · « **Reply #301 on:** January 04, 2008, 07:58:49 AM »

Hi Corey,

Thats the spirit, keep up your search for truth and your passion to learn and build.

Post here if you need some help.

Ren

Thaelin · « **Reply #302 on:** January 09, 2008, 04:34:20 PM »

Hi Ren:
Kind of late, but here. The bearing type was used by a fella named Konzen. Used them on his boat motor. He did remove the grease in them and refill with conductive type. Brushes are always a pain and need adjustment/replacement over time. But then they are simple to deal with. I just seen a post on OU where someone took an old starter motor for a car and took off the contact section and mounted it on the end of the motor shaft. Use the brushes for said motor and they should be near short reading. Hook up only one pad and leave the adjoining ones float should give you somewhat short on times.
Then fast and dirty, heavy clad pc board etched to the pattern you want and spring brushes make for a design dream

thaelin

Ren · « **Reply #303 on:** January 09, 2008, 10:12:37 PM »

Good idea thaelin! Im all for salvaging parts from anywhere I can. I may try the bearings as I think it will be the smoothest and easiest, not to mention simple to replace. The conductive grease sounds a go'er but I'll probably get really small sealed units.

bakercool · « **Reply #304 on:** January 10, 2008, 07:05:39 AM »

Hello my Hero's!!!

I finally got caught up on this thread. Wow, you guys ROCK!

I've started collecting stuff, I got my Magnets N42 1"x1", Battery, 2-Car Alternators (don't ask!) =). I also ordered 10 HAL IC's (but I think they sent me the wrong things. I was wondering if I could get a kick start from you all. As soon as I make a circuit that is worth something, I will will post.

Question 1:
Your recent posts are looking for a timing trigger of your Coils.... I thought that is what the HAL IC was for ?

I hope so, I just bought 10!

Question 2:
I am running a 12 volt system with anywhere from 1-125 Amps (yeah, I know)..... What kind of Diodes, transistors, and Capacitor should I get to charge a 12V Car Battery?

I know this sounds like I am a complete Newb (cause I am), but any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Lastly, since reading your posts from the beginning, I would like to say how impressed I am with the evolutions of your designs. WOW!!!!! Looking good!

Corey

bakercool · « **Reply #305 on:** January 14, 2008, 04:05:25 PM »

I guess after reading 40 pages of posts I figured you guys talked like every 5 mins...

I will spend more time figuring out the other questions, but was curious as to the HAL IC's. I got a response from the company, and they said I had the SF package, and the picture I sent them (from their website) was a UA package. Is there a specific HAL IC place I can get these bad boys from?

To clarify my last post, I am looking at higher amps in order to induce Hydroxy. Sort of a bigger scale model I guess. Thanks for your help with the HAL IC's!

Corey

Ren · « **Reply #306 on:** January 14, 2008, 10:06:28 PM »

hey Corey, good to see your enthusiasm is still strong. Check out hoptoads page here for various configurations. http://www.totallyamped.net/adams/

With the hall sensors you ordered you need to google the part number and find a spec sheet to figure out its capabilities and pin layout. Some halls are switched on by a north pole, some by a south pole some by both. There are simple ways to setup a hall and get it turning as shown by hoptoad, but charging a battery will take some further experimenting.

To tell the truth I have shifted over to Bedinis designs for a few good reasons. The first one is that all the schematics are already posted with part numbers and layouts, and there are hundreds of replications out there. They charge the batteries and the batteries get better and better over time.

The second one is the simplicity of the circuit and the unusual properties it has. Timing is totally taken care of by the trigger coil winding (very similar to the way Nastrands motor is wired) and is adjustable by potentiometer. The circuit runs cold as do the coils, and they are easy to construct. Some of the more advanced circuits use halls too.

Start small, and learn the basics. Build a simple unit that spins the wheel. Dont laugh, my first circuit used a microswitch (mechanical switch) which was turned on by the magnet passing by and bumping it. It was crude and inevitably failed at high switching rates, but it boosted my enthusiasm and drove me to learn more and experiment further. I never really built a good charging circuit from a hall switched device (it definately can be done though) but I learnt alot from the timing and construction of one. If you want any help or tips regarding a bedini circuit I'd be happy to help.

Good luck.

hoptoad · « **Reply #307 on:** January 23, 2008, 07:48:18 AM »

Hi all
Just wondering how you're all going with your motoring experiments. I haven't seen much activity on this thread lately. All still on holidays perhaps? I'm always curious about any fresh revelations regarding pulsed motor systems. Cheers all From the Toad who Hops and keep on keepin on.

Ren · « **Reply #308 on:** January 24, 2008, 12:29:08 AM »

Getting some great results from my Bedini wheel on 24v. Ive realised that if 1 wants mechanical power a higher voltage is desired. It can run quite efficiently on 50 ma with decent speed/torque. Also my window motor is going well, it can be tripped into solidstate quite easily and has very interesting properties!

Ive uploaded another video to you tube, I'll have to make some more.

bakercool · « **Reply #309 on:** January 24, 2008, 02:05:47 AM »

Ren,
That is cool! I need to get a link to your new motor to check it out. I agree about voltage! I have experimented with a coil I have made. I am going to make about 3 more coils tonight. I am going to experiment with the direction, amount of turns, and amps/volts. It took me about 1.5 seconds to realize that the magnetic effects are more about Volts, and less about amps. When you shoot 12v/6amp and get 1/2 inch repulsion, 6v/6amp, get a 1/4 inch repulsion, then 12v/100amp and get 3/4 inch repulsion, it seems to be about volts.
Next I am constructing 2-3 more coils in differnt configurations. This will tell me how to configure a coil with the optimum settings. Next, I will test the above volts/amps and see what kinds of results I get (ie one coil config is better for 6v than 12, etc). After that I will buy some differnt gauge coil wire, and test the difference in the amount of volts, to the best config of coil, then to the best rating of gauge.
After that, I am looking at raising the volts and lowering the amps..... Any suggestion on that? I'm not real electronic smart, but will report my findings. How can I change to 12v/65amp to 1000volt/1milliamp (I know not realistic, just an example).

Ren, I was also thinking that maybe if you wrapped your coils you might get more energy back (Tesla, but not in a transformer config). I think I have read all your posts, but don't remember reading it. If you want to increase your volts, drop your guage to like 30 or 32. I am wondering how many turns it would take to capture 100% electromagnetic collapse.....

Toad,
Any suggestions on what I wrote? Did I sound completly new, or did I make a little sense.. =)

Ren · « **Reply #310 on:** January 24, 2008, 04:34:08 AM »

Hmmm... lots of questions. It depends on how you are going to drive your device as to what voltage you can use. You will want to select the appropriate components for your particular experiment. As far as reducing amp draw, well this can be done a number of ways. A simple potentiometer will allow you to adjust current draw, another way is to reduce the length of time your primary battery is running closed loop, ie pulsed application.

A good way to build up charge is to pulse power down one winding of a multi filar coil and collect the collapse off another. Have it go to a high voltage bridge and store in a capacitor for future use. In this sence you are isolating your power from your source, which can have interesting effects.

Im not sure I understand your statement about wrapping your coils right. My coils are wrapped, The gauge of each wire picked for specific reasons. You cant pump alot of current through a thin wire, and perhaps a high voltage motor could benefit from this. For now I limit myself to learning with 12 and 24 volt because of safety and funds. High voltage can be very dangerous if you dont know what your doing.Send me a pm if you want some simple design to replicate that will help you understand the basics.

robbie47 · « **Reply #311 on:** January 24, 2008, 10:02:29 AM »

Quote from: Ren on January 24, 2008, 12:29:08 AM

Getting some great results from my Bedini wheel on 24v. Ive realised that if 1 wants mechanical power a higher voltage is desired. It can run quite efficiently on 50 ma with decent speed/torque. Also my window motor is going well, it can be tripped into solidstate quite easily and has very interesting properties!

Ive uploaded another video to you tube, I'll have to make some more.

Hi Ren, can you post the links of your you-tube video's ? I am very interested!

Thanks,
Robbie

Ren · « **Reply #312 on:** January 25, 2008, 12:45:28 AM »

heres one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma8Mas50W44

bakercool · « **Reply #313 on:** January 25, 2008, 06:58:34 AM »

@ Ren:
Nice Video! I really like the quality of your motor! Do you know where I can get some cheap acrylic like you got (about 1" thick). Looking good!

To clairfy what I was suggesting, I read your posts about the bifilar coils, but I was thinking of something different. Check out the pictures I made (poorly). Just a thought...... When I come up with a good test on all the coils I am makeing (painfully) I will share those results.

I looked everywhere for Pots and Resistors and Diodes. I don't think I understand enough to make an investment into them. So far, it looks like I will be running 12 volt 25-50 amp per coil (rough guess). Your direction to the pots got me thinking about a light dimmer switch on a car. I think that should work perfect and it's free (just what I need!) Anyways, I do appreciate all the help your giving me, I wish I was an electronic genius....

Lastly, I found a cool place to do all the hard math for us. If you look on the left side it will say "Technical Calculator" http://www.riedon.com/us/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=3&Itemid=4
Looks like any kind of math you need to do to figure out your volts/watts/amps/resistance/etc can be done here pretty easy.

Thanks again for all your help Ren!!!!

hoptoad · « **Reply #314 on:** January 25, 2008, 08:35:32 AM »

Hi all, glad to see you're keepin on keepin on!

@Ren - I just checked out your latest vid - nice machine work mate. A work of art if I do say so myself

@Bakercool - I haven't got much free time right at the moment, due to relatives staying with us over the long week end. Gotta do the right thing and play the cordial host and show them around the local sights etc. I'll try to give you a few little pointers about running motors on voltages higher than 12V when I get a chance, and also about using your output coils as step-up transformers.

Just a little word of caution that has already been pointed out to you - be very careful. The sort of voltages you get from the collapsing field when using pulsing DC in a step-up transformer configuration can be extremely high and very, very dangerous.

P.S. Car pots for dimming headlights tend to be wire wound, low impedance pots if you're ripping it out of an old vehicle. These are generally not very suitable to control the transistor/mosfet base.

Linear carbon track pots from your local friendly electronic outlet are usually only a dollar or two to buy, and are much more suitable for controlling the base current/voltage of your transistor/mosfet.

In the meantime, keep on keepin on! Cheers from the Toad Who Hops.

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Author Topic: Circuit setups for pulse motors (Read 270460 times)

bakercool

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