Author Topic: Circuit setups for pulse motors (Read 270462 times)

hoptoad · « **Reply #285 on:** December 04, 2007, 11:27:48 AM »

@sanmankl
P.S. I hope you don't mind, but I copied your question and my answer to the bottom of Page 4 on my website as a postnote, because you raised a very relevent potential problem and it was something I should have addressed with a scenario and solution.

http://www.totallyamped.net/adams

After all, everything has an up and a down side.

I hope I haven't caused you to suffer too many circuit problems by way of information omission.

I hate it when things go PHsssssttt and then puff little smoke rings of exhaustion and overload!

Cheers all - Keep on motoring!

sanmankl · « **Reply #286 on:** December 04, 2007, 12:57:34 PM »

Quote from: hoptoad on December 04, 2007, 11:27:48 AM

@sanmankl
P.S. I hope you don't mind, but I copied your question and my answer to the bottom of Page 4 on my website as a postnote, because you raised a very relevent potential problem and it was something I should have addressed with a scenario and solution.

http://www.totallyamped.net/adams

After all, everything has an up and a down side.

I hope I haven't caused you to suffer too many circuit problems by way of information omission.
I hate it when things go PHsssssttt and then puff little smoke rings of exhaustion and overload!

Cheers all - Keep on motoring!

@Hoptoad,

No worries about things going phssssst.... All part of experimentation. Without failure, where's success? :-)

Thanks for your help.

Cheers, cp

Ren · « **Reply #287 on:** December 09, 2007, 12:15:32 PM »

more pics guys. Finished circuit, runs nice and smooth! Awaiting some new batteries as the old ones I have, while charging, arent really ideal for a study of this machine. I'll post a vid soon!

Nastrand2000 · « **Reply #288 on:** December 19, 2007, 04:19:03 AM »

Ren,
I like the setup, let us know how it works out. I know I don't post much anymore, but I still watch. And the vcr bearings work great.
Jason

Ren · « **Reply #289 on:** December 19, 2007, 11:50:06 AM »

Hey Jase,

So far so good. Little bit dissapointed as I can only seem to get the 12v 7amp hours up to 13.10v. I can charge two or three though before the run goes flat. Think I need a bigger coil, or more of them.

Draws 90-100 ma on one transistor, and 230ma on two. Charge time is between 4-6 hours. I might try some smaller batteries, perhaps some 4 amp hours to see if it simply the geometry of my coil that is insufficient. Its doing everything Bedini says it will anyway, the batteries are brand new.

On a side note, just caught up with an old friend who I found out inspects emergency lighting in office complexes. Guess what he has to swap out every two years by law! I scored 2 24amp hours and 4 12 amp hours off him. He says he throws out about a hundred a week! Now I just got to find someone who is throwing out butloads of copper wire and Im set!

Merry christmas mate.

S

robbie47 · « **Reply #290 on:** December 19, 2007, 07:37:47 PM »

Quote from: Ren on December 19, 2007, 11:50:06 AM

Little bit dissapointed as I can only seem to get the 12v 7amp hours up to 13.10v. I can charge two or three though before the run goes flat. Think I need a bigger coil, or more of them.

Ren, I don't think bigger coils are required here.
A small hint from my side:
The peak voltage is occuring just after switching off the current in the coil.
In theory: U_coil = L x dI/dt
In other words the coil value times the the steepness of the switching off of the current is a measure for the peak voltage (that is used for charging). With the coil you have in use it should be very feasable to obtain a few hundred volt peak voltage (without load)
So, maybe the transistors do not switch off the current fast enough.

Another reason could be that the iron core is saturated when the magnet is passing.
Enlarging the distance between the top of the coil and your magnets could help in such case.

B.t.w. what exactly do you mean with "I can charge two or three though before the run goes flat"?
Charge two or three discharged batteries from one charged battery?

Ren · « **Reply #291 on:** December 19, 2007, 10:28:10 PM »

Perhaps your right Robbie. I have noticed on Bedinis schematics that the core diameter is the same width as the magnet that passes. I made my coil before I noticed this and it is 20mm where as my magnets are 25mm. Could this perhaps cause the transistor to fire for a longer period and not cause the sharp gradient which is desired?

I used tie wire for the coil, which other people seem to have had great success with. I placed some neos on it for a couple of hours and then removed and tried to pick up some metal shavings, it doesnt hold any residual magnetism. It is about 2-3 mm away from the rotor.

The batteries I have discharged at their c20 down to 12.3v (resting) and then charged one at a time back up to 12.8 (13.10, 12.8 resting) before the run reaches 12.30.

I guess this isnt an exact test as the batteries arent fully discharged, I didnt want to drain them fully yet.

casman1969 · « **Reply #292 on:** December 28, 2007, 09:31:06 PM »

Finally, some success. Have been using a SSG setup with two opposing bifiler wound ADAMS coils. This setup has given me many opportunities to experiment and with the current setup I am ever so slowly charging the primary battery. No charging battery in ckt. Here's the results: At 11:00 A.M. EST I started with two batteries(24V), the first one started at 11.96 V and the second at 12.21. It is now 14:22 and the first one is now at 11.98 and the second is at 12.23.
I will leave this alone and check in the morning but this is the most promissing response I've seen to date. If it continues on current track I'll post pics tomorrow.

Carl

casman1969 · « **Reply #293 on:** December 29, 2007, 05:51:40 PM »

came in this morning only to find a broken contact^&*^&$#$##@.
if anyone has a good idea on how to put or make a reliable mechanical contact for my bicycole wheel I'm really open to suggestions. 12 guage house wire breaks with enough movement and that is what happend. Other than that setback I'm still excited about the progress.

Carl

Thaelin · « **Reply #294 on:** December 31, 2007, 04:56:49 PM »

Braided ground wire works. Also, the brushes on street sweepers use SS tines. I use them now and then for switch contacts. Just watch the amps you draw through as they will heat.

thaelin

Ren · « **Reply #295 on:** January 02, 2008, 05:26:20 AM »

Thaelin I had an idea the other night about constructing at sturdy switching mechanism/commutator that would create minimum drag on a rotor. I got to thinking that if a brush was placed against a rotating disc (commutator) it would create some amount of drag, depending on size and pressure against the tab I guess. But what if the brush was a small bearing that was fixed and rolled against the disc, completing the circuit as required when the sections of copper (or conductive material) passed the bearing. It would look like a figure eight, the top loop being a small bearing and the bottom loop a larger timing wheel. Anyone care to comment?

hoptoad · « **Reply #296 on:** January 02, 2008, 07:41:16 AM »

Quote from: Ren on January 02, 2008, 05:26:20 AM

Thaelin I had an idea the other night about constructing at sturdy switching mechanism/commutator that would create minimum drag on a rotor. I got to thinking that if a brush was placed against a rotating disc (commutator) it would create some amount of drag, depending on size and pressure against the tab I guess. But what if the brush was a small bearing that was fixed and rolled against the disc, completing the circuit as required when the sections of copper (or conductive material) passed the bearing. It would look like a figure eight, the top loop being a small bearing and the bottom loop a larger timing wheel. Anyone care to comment?

Hi Ren, and happy new year to all you "pulsars".

When I first started experimenting with Adams motors in 1990, I was using mechanical switching with contacts from old Telephone relay circuits. They worked well enough for high impedance coils but when I switched to low impedance coils, they had a tendency of burning out very quickly and also damaging the "star" switch. I eventually used a small bearing set from an old VHS motor in place of the relay contact, and this worked very well in reducing wear and tear on both the "star" and the contact (bearing).

I mounted the bearing on the spring wire from a clothes peg.

Eventually the sparking would cause the ball bearings inside the bearing to embellish and "pit" which caused the bearing to stick occasionally, but it was still very effective for much longer periods than using the relay contacts which would wear out quite quickly.
It also spread the spark, and reduced physical friction on the "star switch" , thus allowing a much greater runtime with the star before
it needed refacing.

Cheers and happy motoring from the Toad who Hops.

adam flow nemo · « **Reply #297 on:** January 02, 2008, 04:54:55 PM »

Happy new year people
Keep up the great work !!!!
Peace& love& Respect .

Ren · « **Reply #298 on:** January 02, 2008, 09:19:30 PM »

Awesome Hoptoad, I was sure I couldnt have been the first person to think of it. I thought a nice stainless bearing would roll quite smoothly and make a good contact for conductive paths. I was considering looking for some shockies out of an RC car, they would provide suitable tension and adjustment and would probably already have good mounting options to a frame and small bearing. Have to see.

My other option is a couple of contacts I salvaged out of a power saw. They are spring mounted and look like carbon based?

Thanks again Knee Deep!

hoptoad · « **Reply #299 on:** January 03, 2008, 03:12:50 AM »

Quote from: Ren on January 02, 2008, 09:19:30 PM

My other option is a couple of contacts I salvaged out of a power saw. They are spring mounted and look like carbon based?

@Ren
Yes they are carbon based. They are usually impregnated with very fine powdered copper.

The trick here (generally speaking) when using these types of contacts is to use brushes designed for low voltage DC motors. Most 240 Volt AC motors use carbon brushes that have a built in resistance which can often measure from a few ohms up to a 100 ohms, depending on the motor requirements. The other thing to be aware of, is that they are usually quite thick, and this will impact on the actual duty cycle by extending it a little bit, because the switch needs to travel the full width of the contact before it turns "off" again. This is overcome by adjusting your contact with the switch by moving the contact to a smaller (narrower) region of the switch.

Cheers from The Toad who Hops........KneeDeep

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