think I got the polarity all -correct... did make a compass of sorts so I can test the connections...


had an ancient crochet needle from high school ...could use that to pull thread through the coil loops... can't really see; but did secure the first layer with thread; then decided to just comb them all in a single direction
...

falstad circuit

can just reduce the input voltage to compensate for lack of serialization...

can either connect 2 relays per coil , or 2 per 2 coils; paring opposing coils so there's 18 pairs driven 2 directions for 36 relays that way (in parallel)...
 though there doesn't seem to be much point in the diodes...

Hi d3xor,

Do you get N/S looking towards center and outside?

Yes I get etiher by activating one relay or the other (or will; right now I just used a battery to activate a coil... )

And in regards to windings, do the outer layer have enough of distance to inner? What happends if winding ending on outer place is activated together with winding starting from inner place on same pin? Do you still get proper magnetic polarity?

I am still looking for stator like in the sketch attached. It is really hard one to find for windings to take place like in there. Any ideas?

all layers are both outer (one side in a empty slot) and inner (one side over another coil)....

each coil will be attached to 2 relays.  Activating one relay or the other connects + to the coil on one side or the other.  Normal-closed position the coil is connected with - rail...  so activating any coil vs any other coil has no effect... in the schematic above, each coil (or pair of coils if paired with diametrically opposed  winidng (1-18, 2-19, etc) ).. pairing the near N/S coils as pierre (1-6, etc),  then when 6 is active, it would end up activating 1, which when 6 is the one to be active, 1 should be off, with a gap until 35 which would be the prior coil to be on with 6... (none of that makes any sense does it?  )  But while drawing lots of diagrams; I noticed there was always an opposite pole exactly opposite on the stator.. well that is until opposites where squiashed together and a gap was left...

to go back to the coils; if both coils in a slot are active they will be opposite polarity, but they are on the boundary, and the pole actually shows up within the coil... so the ridge to one side will be north and the other side will be south... there should be enough coupling between to be any sort of issue...

Re your picture though; why do you have a dark cicle?  It's kinda confusing what is the solid and what is space in that image... it's kinda Escher-esque.

Looks like I'll have to add an extra arduino this way... learned they have interrupts though so should be easy enough to chain them

Re your picture though; why do you have a dark cicle?  It's kinda confusing what is the solid and what is space in that image... it's kinda Escher-esque.

The circle under coils? The dark color shows core. The outer circle is just a casing.

T-1000,

Looking for a stator for 26 slots ?

Looking for any to buy which could fit 6x3 coils x N slots. In the market I am unable to find motor/alternator core having coil slots on both sides.

I was also thinking a lot about alternative layout doing same thing like in Pierre's case.

Consider this: instead of having everything on stator frame we could just make as single line arrangement with U cores.
Then apply same driving windings pattern and 1-2-1 activation sequence like in original Pierre's Arduino program also could be applied...

Red color winding - driving
Green color winding - taking out generated electricity.

maybe a pitch of one more so the pole is centered through core?

There are a lot of options but few things need to be kept.
1) We have to produce driving coils which would allow as gradually increase and decrease magnetic field strength towards center with parallel winding and move magnetic field in 3D space like with moving magnet;
2) We need slots with inactive coils so the magnetic field drops to zero;
3) We also need space between opposite poles in the single strip line.

Cheers!

I concur


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6fe6yiUTRY near earth magnetic reconnections...

I stumbled on the idea of using ribbon cable to attach relay boards to the arduino; although power/ground requires hacks... I ended up buying all the 20 pin female connectors from the store; and broken one They have 16's which will probably suffice since I wanted to run power and ground separate from the signals anyway...


While driving to see what else I could use; I considered a more complex stepping scheme...

While driving to see what else I could use; I considered a more complex stepping scheme...

Hi d3x0r
In my post a month ago I made a similar suggestion but whitout that "gap" between "Red and Blue".
http://overunity.com/17609/170-watts-in-1600-watts-out-looped-very-impressive-build-and-video/msg519716/#msg519716

I think it's of great importance that we imitates the squared magnetic factor when our virtual magnetic rotor aligns up (in line, is passing by) with the fixt output core ALSO. Think in terms of a mechanical generator and the magnetic forces between rotor and stator in each small "rotational increments". So the peak flux when passing by has to be much much higer at that time point.

Regards Arne