Thanks AlienGrey,

2 months ago  I driven a 1 meter sixty centimeters rod in the ground where I live  ( it is under my house  where it is always damp ... the water level is pretty  high  where  i live.
And i soldered a copper cable onto the rod, about 12 meters long.

This video from Itsu  that looks very  nice and tidy  ... is  this  according to  a schematic from Aleew Sergey ?  or is  it modified , changed .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBCAmXzmgkg

What schematic are you  using Itsu.

I attached a screen shot  from a Alexeew Sergey video   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFQvMjj6DD4

Hi I thought I would mention the Earth thing which to my mind reflects all the way through this device is the ground frequency, if your using 38m of wire on your grenade and 1/2 that on your inductor you need to introduce the missing another half back into the tuned circuit, this is why you need such a long Earth wire to complete the wave.

Adrian Guska mentions this in his video.

regards Allen

Hi Itsu. That was a good video. Was there any particular phase shift setting for firing the kacher
that made the load light bulb at all noticeably more brighter than other phase settings? For example, did you get
any better brightness on the bulbs when firing the kacher on the current peaks for the resonant loop?
Did you have an earth ground wire connected, and, if so, where was it connected to? I realize the video was from
Nov. 2015, so you may not remember all the details now.

Hi every one, I wouldn't normally open this post post as it's addressed to another, but I have been asked to tell what I know, and it might help others, from tests made on a 'correctly' wound grenade coil Also there are no phases each harmonic should start and finish in it's own 1/14 of the 38m wave, creating its own mini wave (assuming you used 38m or any other tuned length). If you want the device to work accurately measure the wire length and mark it (dead on) and don't use number or turns or try and make it look symmetrical like some one else's or it won't work, again it has to be dead on wave length or harmonics like i said,

top 2 layers 2.714285714m cw
middle 2 layers 5.428571429 m cw
bottom 2 layers 10.85714286m  ccw
oh and eather wind it with no spills between layers or as Mr Stalker shows in his PDF on his web site
The idea is to stack the waves and harmonics on or in each other.
as i said it all needs to be on wire length not turns of wire 'wire length'! serious stuff !

total 2.714285714 m is the 1/14th harmonic (14 x 2.714285714 = 38m) on the coil (add a 1/4 m on each leg to get you out of the 50mm tube no more or less.

As an after thought you might want to go through his video's on his grenade building experiences it's all there in Russian, my Russian is pretty well disgusting but he has made use of the CC switch and you can use the translate to step through it all, (many happy hours )
Allen

I think so many things affect the waves and resonance, that exact lengths are never possible. Grenade diameter, wire quality, fields from other components they all come to play.

They are a good way to check your own coils. If you are meters off from the working version you need to rebuild the coil. Sure you can hit other harmonics with different lengths, but start with tested measurements

A good way to test this theory is to connect a signal generator to the inductor winding and slowly wind the frequency up 10hz at a time and monitor the output on a scope, your looking for super imposed sine waves at quite high frequencies on top of each other, I had many useless coils and many conversations with other builders and many nights scrolling through Russian language forums to get anywhere.

Anyway enough said on this so I will wish you good luck and I hope you have as much fun as I did arriving at so many pretty patterns on a scope

Regards Allen

Hi Void,
no, shifting the kacher firing moment did not show any effect on the brightness of the bulb.
I could both shift it ±90° as well i could flip it over to fire (and shift) to the negative side of the sine wave.
I had an earth ground connected, but that is one of the reasons i stopped working on this setup as that ground probably was not good.
It consisted of about 10m heavy breaded (1.5cm wide) copper wire connected to the copper plumbing system here on my attic where i have my bench.
This copper plumbing system is at the ground level connected to the main earthing point of the house.
Its OK for normal household uses, but i doubt its what is needed for this setup.
Itsu

Hi Itsu. Well you certainly seem to have covered the bases in your tests. The earth ground you mention
doesn't sound so bad, especially if your cold water pipe intake to the house is a metal pipe in the ground.
I will keep thinking about what we could be missing. Thanks for the info on your own experiments. That is
very helpful for others trying to replicate this kind of setup.

Nick,

no, i use ½w resistors and they won't heat up, but mine are 180 Ohm ones.
Did they also heat up when NOT using the Oleg spike snubber?

Itsu

Nick,

IMO a better solution would be to use a TVS diode (drain to source) with a power rating of say 1500W and a clamping voltage (not breakdown voltage) rating V_c of safely under the minimum breakdown voltage rating of your mosfets.