I just finished winding my coil. problems forced me to rewind it like 3 times. it's uses 19 feet of wire. 16 gauge cloth insulated copper, and 14 gauge bare iron wire. it's wound about 2 inches down on a 3/8 inch bolt. wood top and bottom it has 9 coils going down and 5 layers.

no shorts so far. i tested it at .5 ohms on the 5 (copper) and .6 ohms on the 6 (iron) all voltages are 0.00.  but testing between the 5 and 6 i see a pulse of .04 going back to .00 and flashing the minus sign on the meter.

if i can figure out how to add more wire to the Iron side, i will add more length and wind it some more. i don't know what splicing it with a connector would do to the coil. but as of now it's ready to be planted. i don't think i want to try just water first. because i don't think any one has tried just planting first.

lol

if i can figure out how to add more wire to the Iron side, i will add more length and wind it some more. i don't know what splicing it with a connector would do to the coil. but as of now it's ready to be planted. i don't think i want to try just water first. because i don't think any one has tried just planting first.

lol

Pardon

I don't  know of  any advantage of planting  your coil  before you take any readings ........but I guess that  doesn't  mean that there are no  advantages.   

Good luck with your  coil   

 

gary

I didn't find a good way to add more wire so i just planted the coil. after a half hour the voltages were .31 VDC
.0 VAC and .0 MA. after the half hour i wet the ground to set the earth and rechecked the voltages this time they were .86 VDC 1.3 VAC and .15 Ma. an hour later they were .73 VDC .9 VAC and .19 MA then with a short 5 seconds of shock treatment of 12 VDC .25 MA they were .83 VDC 1.2 VAC and .48 Ma that dropped off to .77 VDC .9 VAC and .26 MA so it's making good progress. i will know more tomarrow when i check it again.

also when it was just in air I added my APM's output to it and I could light an LED for a very short time. doing that is real progress. I am a happy camper now.

I was thinking of wiring a few cells in series with the coil. but only if the coil will come up in Ma's a bit. i know that i can add to the voltage. using series wiring. but i still can't figure out how to get more Amp's the problem with series wiring is that i have 2 sides to think about (the 5 and 6) I think i have to run 2 sets of series wired cells. one being a plus voltage and one being a minus voltage. then if i can wire this coil in series i can add more cells for more voltage and hopefully Amp's. i think only testing will tell.

LOL 

also when it was just in air I added my APM's output to it and I could light an LED for a very short time. doing that is real progress. I am a happy camper now.

What does that mean. adding APM's output to it?

one being a plus voltage and one being a minus voltage.

It does boost the reading of everything as I recall. I used a carbon-rods bunch  and connected it to the + side and a Zn rod to the - side and the overall voltage was the summed amount. Go for it let's see!!

i think only testing will tell.

 indeed! 

thank you,

jeanna

Going further we noticed these unique + points on the earth grid were somehow different then a normal electric field. I had current charging things backwards through small diodes. I recall using a 2200 mfd cap and a high frequency diode, and wondering if it was marked wrong, so I tried several other diodes and discovered they were charging the cap backwards, Also a ground rod set about 1 foot deep at one of these + points could be "felt" and often I would go out and just hold the end of one of these with my left palm. It felt electric and good, a healing and rising feeling.

I later identified this energy as a torsion field.

The chart supplied above is in millivolts, and the greatest voltage I could get accross the property was around 300 mv from the earth currents alone. I never figured out any way to get "current" enough for an LED without using active battery elements, like you all are experimenting with here.

Here is the first chart:

You do one line first, then at the highest positive point you do another one at 90 degrees, until you start to locate the positive earth nodes.

Dave L

Results to date
My greatest achievment during that time was to go right next to one of the + points and beat a 2 foot by 1.5 foot plastic barrier plate into the ground. This set up an insulator just off one of the hot spots. I then pounded one rod into the hot spot and one right up against the plastic plate and got a glorious .087 volts from the ground currents! All within a one foot area. I was elated. This voltage now added to the rods active battery with iron on the negative side as I recall.

I designed a few battery systems using spherical hemispheres of Zinc and copper, but never actually built one. The Zinc would be on the East side and the Copper on the West side and the earth currents would add to the system if placed just off a hot spot. The capacitors would be inside the sphere with one contact to each hemisphere.

Series cells
The worst realization or discovery was when doing series cells. The earth will short them all out basically. The only way to make a series cell is from a large circle to a central point, then a section of the ground will charge up form outside to inside, and since you are always fighting the underground short this gets frustrating.

To harness and use the torsion fields of the earth grid, you need to be inside them, but to raise the voltage in one location you need to work a "node point" and push it more positive using concentric circular elements. This gets expensive fast! LOL! So I moved on.

I never tried the large plastic insulators in a hole idea and working two node points, a lot of digging for sure would be involved to get the area needed. Consider you want to spread out 6 feet, now you have 6 foot of hole to get a good spherical system isolated for a good conductance of the earth. Its the underground part where using insulators becomes hard to achieve. Charge will spread out as a sphere however so this would be the best way to achieve the highest possible charge without loosing it. An earth capacitor, using a torsion field, could also have layers with insulation between them and actually become the capacitor as well. If built and buried around a hot spot it would now have a power source.

I also read somewhere that the earth batteries were seeded with a copper sulphate in the soil to reactivate them. They would spread it over the ground then water it in.

Ground resistance:
Consider that ground rods of 6 foot are used by the phone companies, and they are always placed 6 foot apart in a large ground field. Any closer is considered wasting them. This is because at 6 foot down you have grabbed the entire "hemisphere" of electric potiential in that section of ground. A ground field of 100 rods set up like this will easilly sink 15 amps and more of current that moves along the cable sheaths that run under power lines. I have personally measured 15 amps flowing in one, while this is not a normal effect, they are normally allways flowing an amp or two. To get a strong EM current moving into the ground requires covering more area if the ground is to carry a load current.

Torsion
If you had two strong ground systems placed a distance apart along the east west line you can expect to get some really strong telluric currents, and I think a lot of the old telegraph systems in the US ran East to West. They would start to power each other as the system grew larger, and the earth batteries would appear to be generating some very real power, enough to pull up telegraphs anyway even long after the cells were dried up and half corroded. This is of little use to us wanting the same 15 amps from our 150 foot lot, so if we go with the conventional EM stuff, the numbers do not add up well for a pure EM system. This is where one may choose to entertain the notion that the torsion field may hold some key to greater EM outputs then a simple earth current, as the two systems appear to be linked. The positive nodes on the earth appear to have an energy we do not understand, and to me it feels quite strong. I have no proof as of yet that the torsion systems can power anything however to the degree we presently use in our homes, but I do have a sense about how to propagate them, and their conscious effects.

Dave L

I think to harness the power, you need high voltage, and not necessarily amps.  Even within Stubblefield's patent, he notes that it is a "voltaic pile."  I think this possibly relates to Stiffler's excitation principle, except in this case the trick is to excite the ground space.  I was thinking maybe try building the rings of wire around a bolt in a voltaic pile fashion, with cotton or other material being the separation.

Freezer

Interesting  idea .

I was working in that genreral  direction   on the other  thread ..... I never did get  my pancake  coils to  work together .

I never tried  making   them  all copper   and  all iron and  making a  voltaic  pile with them .   


I agree that  high  voltage is probably important . 
In  my opinion   the keys to radiant  energy   are  short  pulses  and high  voltage 




@ pardon

I am waiting  to hear  how your  shock  treatment   works . 
I read that Stubblfield   did  something to draw the   energy up through the coil .
It  would be  great if it was as simple as a few jolts from a battery .


gary

here is how i shock a cell or coil i have a pv panel 12 V .25 ma or so it's just a battery maintainer from harbor freight. cost about 12 dollars on sale.  it's used to keep my car and truck battery's up to charge. i don't drive either of them much.

i take the pv panel and make sure it's getting bright light, then take the clips and clip them on to what i want to shock.
note this panel with bright light on it puts out over 20 volts. i just keep it attached for a set amount of time.  thats all their is to it.

i didn't have much luck wiring in series today. i need to have more cells. so i started making cells again. this time i am using real good wire and connectors. but then it started raining so I was unable to complete this part of the project. I am not going to mess around with anything electric in the rain. my body is just to good of a ground. and i really don't like shock treatments.

Pardon

how did   the voltage and current  hold up  after the shock treatment ?

did  you  hook  the  positive up to copper and  negative  to iron  when you  shocked it?


gary