@all

My coil crashed,  it developed a short deep in it's insides, found the problem 5 layers down .

A short developed directly around where I had made two copper wires join together, so now I need to repair this and wind it all back together.
I will try heat shrink and see if that will work OK.

Motto to be learnt, only use a single unbroken length of wire if it is at all possible, thats both wires, copper and Iron.
 
There is copper and iron wire and cotton string all over my floor right now lol.

jim

Jim, Sorry to hear about the short. We have all been there at one point or another. Glad you found it and are making repairs. When it ran, your voltage was close to theoretical 0.78V so this is good. Alloys in the materials will drag the number down a bit, so .71V is good in my opinion.

I'm still waiting for my separator paper. Maybe this week. I have also convinced myself to have some iron wire covered in the fiberglass. This will add a week to my materials gathering process but I can live with that.

I'll be hitting my spreadsheet again and maybe retune overall coil geometry to allow more layers. I'll try staying with (core dia / total coil dia) ratio of .3 if I can. Core length will be shortened thus winding length also shortened; I'll keep at 0.8 ratio.

Good luck with your rebuild!

Hey All

A question. With which ever conducting materials tried, using dry cotton, has there been any long term testing, where the battery has be disassembled to check for any issues with the surfaces of the conductors, as in discoloration, signs of corrosion, as in what might happen in a normal battery.
Also, has anyone tried this in a vacuum? As in, is it the air that acts as the electrolyte for sure?  Or how about under high pressure? Different gasses? Fiberglass instead of cotton?  Hey, carbon fiber as an electrode!

Just thoughts

Mags

Sorry for the late replies to everyones questions and those offering helpful suggestins I got over whelmed with things here which needed my urgent attention.

@ Jesus,

Thank you for those tips on knocking off the sharp bits of solder, I have some heat shrink tubing here and will use it this time without fail.

I did a little research on how to join two steel wires, I need to use a silvering solder technique, huh, I ain't got the flux or silver solder, gonna doa bit of thinking about this one.

@MW383,
Thank you also for the figures on the voltages, I wasn't aware just what I could get from it, so what I was getting indicates it was a good output, I noticed the output in mA was getting higher every time I wound the layers, this tells me the coil is a magnetic device, it's a 6th sense feeling I have.

I am wondering if you can let me know the contact details on this special woven wire you had made for you, any chance of this please?

I hope your separator paper turns out to be the good stuff, cotton tape is what I am using right now, but when I saw the rust markings on my coil after just a few days it surprised me no end, but Lasersaber says his coils rusted up but still are working hmmmm.

@Magluvin,

Many of the older posters here have pulled their coils apart after they had been lying in the ground, or left on table tops, in most cases they all found them with rust, but it would be better for them to answer.
 
No one tried testing that I know of in a vacuum, the electrolyte is the water, look at Lasersabers videos, it shows voltage rising as he squirts water over the cotton.
I found the same thing occurring with my coil to. the voltage rises as it gets damp.
On a humid day I expect the coil to put out energy longer, buried in the earth, where it is constantly damp, it will work all the time it is buried.
Don't know about pressure, could be interresting experiment with the vacuum as well.

@ Protonmom,

Long time no see, welcome back to the forum of discoveries lol.
I also looked for the address, I think MW383 has the details where to get the fiberglass covered wire, he might be on to a breakthrough with using a new replacement material for the Stubblefield Coil, and good for him for thinking outside the square.
Thanks for the congrats, yes I'm tired of unwinding but will have to keep going.

I just had a brain wave, could a stainless steel wire be used in replacement of the steel or iron wire, it would almost banish the rust problem. There are different grades of stainless, the feed grade might be the best one.

It's almost midnight, so as I'm tired out I'm off to bed

jim
 

@ Lasersaber,

Thank you for you thoughts on the problems you have been having with your coils, well done.
Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get my hands on kilometers of iron wire in one length, but I will be looking for it.
If I had a gas axe, then it would be a simple matter to heat the two ends to join them, ha ha.
 
Yes, I encourage you to do a video on your coil pull down, may I suggest you make some arrangement to take up the wire on empty rolls as you do the procedure, I found the wire on my coil had a spring effect, it would rotate or unwind around the circumference if I accidentally slackened off the tension as I tried unwinding the coil.
In the end I just had to let the iron wire go on my kitchen floor.

What turns remaining on my coil is putting out energy, not too much though, it is all DC, copper is Positave, Steel is Negative

The best thing I ever did was to make a shorted turns tester and mount that on the side of the coil, to warn me if and when shorts occur during winding, I am soooo pleased I did, that saved me an awful lot of grief.

You have some good ideas, keep them flowing, people will be able to help with replications.
With your copper and copper coil, which size wire favors the positive side?

You have done a excellent job making Parts 1 to 5 on How to build a stubblefield coil.

Do you still make your coils by hand or use a machine to wind them?

Well done Lasersaber.

jim

could a stainless steel wire be used in replacement of the steel or iron wire

Not a very high iron content. Off hand I would say no.
 You can buy uninsulated butt connectors from magnet wire size to service entry size. A bag of 25 of Awg 16 to 12 sizes is about $4.00 us. When crimped right there hard to pull off. 
 I wouldn't mind trying the fiberglass. Seeing how the company that is making it for Mw is in the business of just making heater cords they may not want to do it on a larger scale. I think quite a few here would like to try it though. Mw would have to check that out. Im going to wait on that until I see some numbers from Mw.
@ Protonmom: Glad to see we havent lost you!

 An observation and question. The magnetic field of the core runs north and south which puts the field perpendicular or 90 deg to the copper and iron windings. What affect would there be if you coiled the "insulated" iron wire around the copper wire then wind that on the core? The iron magnetic field would be going north and south along with the core in this manner. I would think there would be more amps produced this way.
Anyone have any insights or knowledge on this?

I now wonder if this form of wire insulation is even necessary...

That depends on the numbers. If there better or close to it then it would be much cheaper than the cotton. We need the numbers and materiel's from you though. The 1018 in my opinion is the closest to what Ns had and cheap enough. A lower carbon core with silicone may be better but not necessary.
If your numbers are good on the 1018 Im up for 500 feet to start.
 You mentioned the iron wire insulated. Are you buying the iron wire and then having them insulate it?

here are a couple of pictures of my fiberglass copper wire as recieved. Material = UN16S-BC, basically a bare 16ga uninsulated wire, soft drawn.

In the background, a rope heater from same manufacturer can be seen mounted on a cooking appliance.

Potential iron wire w/ this fiberglass would look identical. It would be ordered at same gauge as copper thus identical dimensions and clean windings.