Question:  why do the caps getting hot in those circumstances? Both are rated to handle the voltages (400 / 630V)

Hi itsu. In a high current tank circuit arrangement, you need a tank capacitor with low Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR).
I believe the 'orange drop' capacitors you are using are polypropylene film capacitors, which is a good economical choice for
high current tank circuit use, because polypropylene film capacitors usually have a pretty low ESR. However, by using 
two of these capacitors in series, you are increasing the total ESR, it adds together I believe. You would be much better off to take say 4
capacitors of this type with lower capacitance values, and place them all in parallel to get the desired total capacitance you want for the tank circuit. 
That way you are also paralleling the ESR of each capacitor and the result is a much lower total ESR. The tank capacitors should
remain cooler if you parallel the  polypropylene film capacitors that way. This is a way to get a low ESR without having to buy a more
expensive type of capacitor with very low ESR. 

Yes, there appears to be some misunderstanding in that leader genie video, as the driving circuit does appear to be a ZVS driver circuit
which should be producing at least roughly a sinewave. Also the two circuits do seem to be tuned to close to the same resonant frequency
when looking at the scope waveforms shown.

All the best...

   Itsu:
   Good to see you here.
   I'm using the 0.22 to 0.47uf poly caps, 400 to 1600 volts on my Mazilli circuit.
They do not get hot, at all, although my fets IRFP260N which should be able handle the voltage and amperage , could boil water for my morning coffee.
   Now I'm using a bigger rectangular shaped 1.2uf tuning capacitor from the 3 turn yoke output coil, to the new Akula core primary coil, which I'm still tuning and working on.  So far, I get no light at the Akula secondary output coil. Although my meter reads 110v, which as I've mentioned previously, the volt meter can not read the output on the Mazilli correctly. There is nothing wrong with my volt meter. It just can't accurately read this type of magnetic current, at the yoke's secondary coil output, or even at the Akula air core secondary output coil, either. So, I'm not sure just what voltage there really is, so I look for the bulb brightness(lumin levels), when there is such a thing.
  The 1.2uf yoke secondary coil tuning capacitor should probably be teamed up with a few more of the same caps, but even just the single cap that I'm using now, does help to raise the output voltage.
  I'll keep adding more turns on the Akula cores also, until I get the best light output.
It takes a lot of turns to raise the voltage, when going from the yoke 3 turn output coil (60v), to the Akula air core primary coil, which now only has about 80v, or so. I placed only about 12, 12 turns, for a total of about 25 turns, bifilar, or so on that primary coil. And about 48, 24, 24 turns on the Akula air coil secondary (output coil). All the Akula air core coils are wound in the same direction.
  Hope that you can join me on this new project. I'm still scatching my head trying to figure out how Akula/Ruslan/TK have done it. But, I will get to the bottom of this.

   I believe that the Royer or even the Mazilli circuits are not apt for our purpose. As there is over heating issues, and lots of amp draw, instead. The bulbs get very hot, as well, so I don't think that this is what's called "cold electricity", either.  But, the non-shocking part is still what amazes me, and would hate to lose that.

  I'll probably try the new simplified circuit the MenofFather posted, if I can obtain all the parts for it. But, I'm trying to finish my Akula coil, first, and then get my kacher/exciter pulser circuit tuned and connected up to the Mazilli/Akula circuit, also.

  I wonder what Geo thinks of that simplified circuit that MenofFather posted, and did also make several changes to it.  Will it self run, still, as posted???

Nickz have yet to upload his version of drawn schematic containing all the component value details for anyone whom wish to start with yoke core experiment base on his latest video uploaded around 2 wk back.

Hi MagPWR

In post #4656?
and this circuit is adjutable by frequency and duty cycle?

regards zcsaba77

   This comes from a hamm radio point of view.

Has anyone here that is hands on considered that you need to
have an impedance match from input to output to get the most
power to the load?  I know from experience that if the match is
not close to perfect, the finals will load up with harmonics and
blow. Old tube sets could deal with it better but after a while,
the tube would gas out and short and then turn a nice purple.

Food for thought.

not really from a ham radio view; but from experimental view; it worked better if the coils were closer to the same inductance... didn't have a cap on the secondary, just LED load to control voltage and eventually an incandescent in parallel.

   Itsu:
   Good to see you here.
   I'm using the 0.22 to 0.47uf poly caps, 400 to 1600 volts on my Mazilli circuit.
They do not get hot, at all, although my fets IRFP260N which should be able handle the voltage and amperage , could boil water for my morning coffee.
   
  I wonder what Geo thinks of that simplified circuit that MenofFather posted, and did also make several changes to it.  Will it self run, still, as posted???

Hi Nick,

You are disadvantaged by not seeing the waveform at the gate of your mosfets. They are very likely being under driven as a result of the poor condition of your supply battery. You will not progress until you address this problem.

I think Geo is still lurking in the background, hopefully preparing a video to show some evidence that he has a self-runner. 

hi Hoppy,

I have powered my 220volt 850watt drill for the first time using Energy Audit Device as attached.

Under "no load condition" for my case the  power on state after about 3seconds is "185watt".

We can roughly guess what was the estimated drill power usage at below 100% spin as shown in video which did not blow the 24v 2Amp adapter.

Original Russian video attached for others whom just joined topic-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anvb_PXG1YA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKjgMmZcFA0

Paralleling severall low value caps looks like a solution to try.

Yes, think of it this way. When you parallel say 4 lower value capacitors to get your total
desired capacitance, the total tank circuit current will divide amongst each of the 4 parallel capacitors,
causing each individual capacitor leg to conduct less current. If all capacitor values are the same value,
then each capacitor will only carry one quarter of the total tank circuit current, so they will definitely
run cooler. There is another advantage to this arrangement as well, which is that by having less
resistive losses in your tank circuit (less total ESR for the parallel capacitor arrangement) you have a higher Q factor.
You also ideally want to keep the parallel capacitors as close to your primary coil winding as is practical, to keep the lead
lengths as short as possible to reduce resistive losses there as well. At high currents, even a very little bit of added resistance
can make a noticeable difference. Also, any lead connections in high current tank circuits should ideally be soldered really well,
but for test circuit purposes that is not always convenient...

Since we are supposedly looking for overunity, we need to try to reduce unnecessary resistive losses (primarily
in higher current parts of the circuit) wherever possible to increase overall efficiency. This is also why tesla coil people
will often use a large bank of parallel capacitors in the tesla coil primary sparkgap circuit. Less resistive losses means bigger
tesla coil corona discharges at the tesla coil output. 

All the best...

hi Hoppy,

I have powered my 220volt 850watt drill for the first time using Energy Audit Device as attached.

Under "no load condition" for my case the  power on state after about 3seconds is "185watt".

We can roughly guess what was the estimated drill power usage at below 100% spin as shown in video which did not blow the 24v 2Amp adapter.

Original Russian video attached for others whom just joined topic-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anvb_PXG1YA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKjgMmZcFA0

Hi magpwr

We would need to know whether the 24V, 2A adaptor had any current limiting circuitry in addition to a mains fuse. Power will also be dissipated in both the adaptor and Mazilli, so to be sure of the power consumed by the drill itself, this would need to be measured. Unfortunately, as is invariably the case, we never get shown proper measurements being taken during a video presentation. However, we can be sure that this will not prove to be an overunity setup.