Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications (Read 1725975 times)

electricme · « **Reply #2100 on:** June 18, 2008, 08:30:44 AM »

@ Storre

Nice coil, nice tight turns, should be a bonza coil when finished.
Bet the fingers feel a bit saw after winding that lot

I like the wooden former ends, same as stubblefields.

Storry, you havent mentioned how you made the wooden ends, but I believe a hole saw is a suitable tool to do this, for those who don't know what that contraption is, it is a circular saw used to cut holes in a door before mounting door locks etc.

Nice sink also, well done storre

Jim

Chad · « **Reply #2101 on:** June 18, 2008, 09:07:56 AM »

Quote from: Pirate88179 on June 18, 2008, 06:12:08 AM

Man, that is a beautiful coil you have there!!! The vdc seems about right but you should have a decent amount of amps I would think. Please don't take offense to this but, have you checked to make sure you have not blown a fuse on the mA part of your meter? I was reading "0" mA's on several tests before I finally figured out that I had blown one of the 2 fuses on my meter. Later, I again read "0" and it still took me a while to test the fuse and found out I had blown yet another one.

Maybe try testing a "AA" battery for mA's just to see? You have a lot of mass there and it is wound very nicely, I would suspect that you should see at least 20-30 mA's wet, possibly a lot more.

I read in another topic that the mA fuses on our meters are very prone to blowing at the slightest provocation. It might have blown when you first tested it if it was set too low. Trust me, it does not take much.

I hope this helps.

Bill

I would defininatley check the fuse, as bill mentions the fuse can easily be blown ive done this many times myself.

well spotted bill

Chad.

storre · « **Reply #2102 on:** June 18, 2008, 02:27:53 PM »

Quote from: Pirate88179 on June 18, 2008, 06:12:08 AM

Man, that is a beautiful coil you have there!!! The vdc seems about right but you should have a decent amount of amps I would think. Please don't take offense to this but, have you checked to make sure you have not blown a fuse on the mA part of your meter? I was reading "0" mA's on several tests before I finally figured out that I had blown one of the 2 fuses on my meter. Later, I again read "0" and it still took me a while to test the fuse and found out I had blown yet another one.

Maybe try testing a "AA" battery for mA's just to see? You have a lot of mass there and it is wound very nicely, I would suspect that you should see at least 20-30 mA's wet, possibly a lot more.

I read in another topic that the mA fuses on our meters are very prone to blowing at the slightest provocation. It might have blown when you first tested it if it was set too low. Trust me, it does not take much.

I hope this helps.

Bill

Thanks Bill and I was hoping you were right on that fuse but my meter only has a 500ma and 10A fuse and both are ok. Doesn't seem to have a separate fuse for mA and I tested some batteries and it reads correctly. Will test the coil more but if I don't get anything I will splice on more wire instead of rewinding with longer wire. Shouldn't make a difference if I do a nice mend with some solder right? Winding this is a hand and arm killer! I can see several ways to motorize it. I have a vertical drill with slow speed that I could rig up for winding. Today I will see if it has any effect on a compass when I short it out using the opposite ends. So copper to iron but using there opposite ends.

storre · « **Reply #2103 on:** June 18, 2008, 02:50:45 PM »

Quote from: electricme on June 18, 2008, 08:30:44 AM

@ Storre

Nice coil, nice tight turns, should be a bonza coil when finished.
Bet the fingers feel a bit saw after winding that lot

I like the wooden former ends, same as stubblefields.

Storry, you havent mentioned how you made the wooden ends, but I believe a hole saw is a suitable tool to do this, for those who don't know what that contraption is, it is a circular saw used to cut holes in a door before mounting door locks etc.

Nice sink also, well done storre

Jim

Yes I made them with a hole saw. I live in a granite and bamboo house and we use all size hole saws to cut the bamboo. My idea with the cool was to duplicate the patent as close as possible and the form ends I would use to hold onto to wind the coil. It was the best way other than using a motor, to make sure the coil was wound very tightly. I used all my wait throughout all the turning and the coil as is tight as it can be. I recall reading somewhere that it should be a tight cool so the distances between the two metals is close as possible. Also the cotton tubing is very tight on the copper.

Does anyone know of a good wire stripper. I need to strip about 20M of 12 gauge copper. I guess the standard type for stripping wire ends will not work for the whole length.

Today the coil is still wet but not submersed and is reading .635V (it gradually climbs if I leave the meter connected) and .00mA by reading the copper and galvanized from one side or opposite sides but with no connection between the copper and galvanized wire ends.

electricme · « **Reply #2104 on:** June 18, 2008, 03:18:25 PM »

@ Storre

A stone and bamboo house??? now that is different, I have seen bamboo used as water pipe when I lived in New Guinea, I have even lived in a paper house, it's true, thats a long time ago.

OK how to remove varnish off copper, back in my days when I wound coils for rewinding motors, we had to burn the burntout copper wires to get scrap value back in aussie.
Take 20M of copper, put in a galvinised rubbish bin, throw in a half cup of petrol and light it. That removes the varnish. (smokes a lot, stinks a lot also, neighbours panic a lot too:) Take out the bare copper, blackened with soot, and wash it in soap and water.
But the cupper might now be brittle, or too soft to use it.

We had to use an oxy welding flame to melt the ends of the copper to steel 240v leads, so you never know, it might work.

Anyone else got a better way to do this, other than setting fire to the joint?

Jim

storre · « **Reply #2105 on:** June 18, 2008, 03:54:11 PM »

Quote from: electricme on June 18, 2008, 03:18:25 PM

@ Storre

A stone and bamboo house??? now that is different, I have seen bamboo used as water pipe when I lived in New Guinea, I have even lived in a paper house, it's true, thats a long time ago.

OK how to remove varnish off copper, back in my days when I wound coils for rewinding motors, we had to burn the burntout copper wires to get scrap value back in aussie.
Take 20M of copper, put in a galvinised rubbish bin, throw in a half cup of petrol and light it. That removes the varnish. (smokes a lot, stinks a lot also, neighbours panic a lot too:) Take out the bare copper, blackened with soot, and wash it in soap and water.
But the cupper might now be brittle, or too soft to use it.

We had to use an oxy welding flame to melt the ends of the copper to steel 240v leads, so you never know, it might work.

Anyone else got a better way to do this, other than setting fire to the joint?

Jim

Yes and with half meter thick walls, it's like sleeping in a cave!

It's not varnish I want to get off the copper but the plastic insulation. Maybe I can buy it already bare but don't think so. For this coil I used a pocket knife which was almost as fun as winding the coil and just as hard on the hand :-/

I was thinking of some kind of wire stripped that would maybe cut it length wise so I could just pull it off. Like you can do with softer insulation buy just getting it started and then pulling back.

electricme · « **Reply #2106 on:** June 19, 2008, 07:28:08 AM »

@ storre
I just thought of the answer, but it will mean some drilling and tapping a screw hole, if you are up to it, here's a method on how to strip long lengths of insulated copper wire.

Grab a bit of steel, 1" square about 2 inches long, mount it vertically in your drill press, drill a hole all the way through to the other end, the diameter of the hole to be just slightly bigger than the size of the insulated wire.

Counter sink each end of the new hole you just made.
Take the steel billet out of the drill vice, mount it so you can now drill another hole say about half an inch from one end on the billit, make the size to suit a long threaded small screw, but the next size drill bit smaller.
Drill downwards to intercept the previous hole.
Tap a thread, same size of the screw
Take the long screw, wind the nut all the way to the top of the head of the screw.
Grind or file the end of the long screw on a angle and flat (like a very very sharp screwdriver), screw this long screw into the hole you just tapped, look into the hole the wire will be fed through, and adjust the height so it will protrude only to cut into the insulation, not the copper wire. Lock the screw into position with the nut you threaded all the way up the top of the screw.

Mount the whole jig in a vice, poke the wire into the other end until it comes out the other side, now you can pull and strip the wire with ease.
Hope this helps
Jim

electricme · « **Reply #2107 on:** June 19, 2008, 08:03:31 AM »

@ all A Wire Insulation Stripper Jig

electricme · « **Reply #2108 on:** June 19, 2008, 08:12:43 AM »

@all here is a jig to make to wind a NS Coil
you got to be able to cut steel and use a stick welder, if you want to power it by a motor, just get a battery powered drill, take the winding handle off and put the drill chuck on the handle shaft. The idea is, there is a sliding rear end, which has a hollow pipe the bolt end goes into, the other end of the bolt fits a socket which goes on a mating extender bar, which goes through a loose fitting pipe. The whole lot can be bolted to the top of a table, or make a wood table from scrap and use that, or use G clamps to hold the jig down.
jim

electricme · « **Reply #2109 on:** June 19, 2008, 08:42:57 AM »

@all
This probably dosent fit in here but just to let any doubters think the above 2 items wont work, here is one of my projects I took on by myself. The heaviest 8" telescope in Australia, weigning in at 2 tons, Took about 1-2 years to build. 1 locomotive drive wheel, someones fence, bulldozer clutch plates. It can be checked out at www.yowee.8m.com/dadyjim.html one of my hats is amature astronomy

storre · « **Reply #2110 on:** June 19, 2008, 05:01:55 PM »

Quote from: electricme on June 19, 2008, 08:42:57 AM

@all
This probably dosent fit in here but just to let any doubters think the above 2 items wont work, here is one of my projects I took on by myself. The heaviest 8" telescope in Australia, weigning in at 2 tons, Took about 1-2 years to build. 1 locomotive drive wheel, someones fence, bulldozer clutch plates. It can be checked out at www.yowee.8m.com/dadyjim.html one of my hats is amature astronomy

Great suggestions. I simplified your wire stripping idea. Just took a block of hard wood, drilled it like you said. Didn't bother counter sinking the holes. Drilled a side hole and put in a wood screw that was already pointed. Worked great! I fed in the beginning of the wire then fasted the wire to something fixed and then pulled the block of wood down the wire as it cut it down the middle. Even straightened out the kinks in the wire

Thanks! Now I will add another 12M or so onto my coil and see if I get any more POWER!

silverfish · « **Reply #2111 on:** June 19, 2008, 07:14:34 PM »

Quote from: Pirate88179 on November 20, 2007, 07:03:00 PM

@ Hans:
This makes it sound like he was seeding his "hotspot" areas with some dangerous chemicals. Or, could it have been the decomposition of his copper that Stefan warned us about in an earlier thread? He was concerned we would poision our gardens. Great research Hans, but I don't really like this news.

Bill

I don't remember these soil treatment methods being mentioned in 'Lost Science' by Jerry Vassilitos?
It would be interesting to read more of these comments from relatives, if available. Doesn't Pitchblende have a radioactive component, by the way?

silverfish

hansvonlieven · « **Reply #2112 on:** June 19, 2008, 10:09:32 PM »

Quote from: silverfish on June 19, 2008, 07:14:34 PM

I don't remember these soil treatment methods being mentioned in 'Lost Science' by Jerry Vassilitos?
It would be interesting to read more of these comments from relatives, if available. Doesn't Pitchblende have a radioactive component, by the way?

silverfish

Pitchblende IS radioactive. Today's name for pitchblende is Uraninite See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uraninite

Hans von Lieven

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #2113 on:** June 19, 2008, 10:11:20 PM »

silverfish:

If you read on a few posts past the one you copied here, you will see that Hans identifies pitchblende as uranium ore.
Madame Curie used pitchblende to isolate and extract radium, for which she is famous for today. Later, Hans posted a photo of a device lighting an incandescent bulb using nothing but a tiny amount of radioactive material. We have, I hope, progressed far beyond this type of research in our efforts. It is just something that came up early on about his kid (Nathan Stubblefield's) dying from eating poison/contaminated vegetables from the garden. (Potato) His wife left him after that and ...anyway....it was just part of the history that turned up. Hope this helps.

Bill

electricme · « **Reply #2114 on:** June 27, 2008, 04:14:19 AM »

@storre
Good jig there, it works like a dream

Had a few hickups with the NS pages, scanner not to my liking, gota figure it out.
Will be making progress next week I hope.

jim

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Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications (Read 1725975 times)

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