Hoppy:
  I can't remember just where it was mentioned that the superimposition should be DC from the HV pulser, to the magnetic induction coils (12,12, or 25,25, turns). 
   Maybe T-1000 knows, or remembers. In some of the older videos, perhaps.

  I tried a UF diode on the end of kacher secondary and got a positive improvement on the bulb brightness, but that was a while back, and I don't remember all the details.  Maybe just give it a try, and see what happens.

  I don't go by voltage/current/or frequencies levels, as most of you are doing.
  I tune my circuits by bulbs brightness levels, instead.
As I don't have, nor really want, all the gear to be able to go that route.
 
  I'm interested in hearing about how Ursa describes his no-scope tuning methods, as well.
 I'm sure that TK had no such instruments, or knew how to even use them correctly. As he had not mentioned anything related to the use of expensive test gear, to build any of his devices.

  I feel that we need to focus on building up exact coil replications, with the proper coil wire specs, using the right opposing (cancelling) field effect, and using properly tuned earth grounds lines, etz... Like Ruslan has shown when replicated the Akula devices, in his own way.
Providing for a tuned ambient energy receiver? 
Or,  for a nuclear decay device, instead?
   I'm sure that Wesley would be up for it, if the device is a nuke,  as nuclear seams to be his cup of tea.  Not mine, though...
  Just kidding Wes...
 

Thanks for your reply.

Improvements in bulb brightness by tweaking the inverter is neither here or there IMO when the objective is to self-run by removing the power supply. As I commented earlier, we most likely have missing information, coupled with a degree of deliberate misinformation in respect of the information so far given.

Well guys,
I just started to draw my Push Pull and the first what I noticed is the negative terminal on the Drain of the Mosfet. To make it more confused Enjoyiking supplied some schematic with the N-channel Mosfets (ground on drain??)  and Ruslan's original drawing seen in his YouTube video has drawn P-Channel mosfet but with N-channel type number. What the heck??
Ok , lets, believe it is N-channel- should ground be on the drain as on the picture??
Thanks.

Hi John. Likely just drawing errors. Ruslan said he was using IRFP260 MOSFETs, so N-channel, Drain to V+,
Source to ground.
All the best...

Meno:
  Are there any videos of this device, working, or some pictures?

No pictures, no video.

  John.K1: 
  Well, I agree that we may be over complicating all this. And I plan on proving it.
   If the coils are wound properly as Ruslans are, then we should see these bulbs light up, a lot brighter than what we are all seeing up to now. But, we aren't...
  However, outside of tuning using the right tuning caps, tuned grounds, and turning some pots for best output, or for the best results, what else is there to do?
  My contention is that, if the induction part of crt is not providing a strong output by itself, there won't be a self runner to tune for.  A strong induction crt, should be the first step towards providing for a self runner. 
  If this is neither here nor there, I don't know what is.

  Meno:  "No video, no pictures".   
    Waiting for further results, then... but thanks for bringing it up.
 

This is just an aside. LED's are pretty interesting devices.
They can light up with just one lead connected to a power source on the LED, 
with the other LED lead only connected to a short alligator clip lead, but not connected to anything.
In other words, they can still light in an open circuit, under the right conditions.
Here I am using two LED's with power only going to 1 lead on the LED's.
Other lead is open circuit. It would appear the LED's are lighting using displacement current only.
This still draws power from the power source however.
All the best...

Void, so does the bulb at the output of the granade coil, only one lead to bulb, the second aligator from the bulb is free.  In LED it is because they have very small capacitance but big enough to make your diode light.

Hi John. When you say bulb, do you mean a fluorescent light, or a light bulb with a wire filament?
If you mean you can light a filament light bulb with only one wire connected, I would like to see
a picture of that. Fluorescent lights work on ionization of gases so they don't need any wires
connected if placed in a strong electric field of a high enough voltage.
All the best...

Yes Void. Standard wire bulb 220V 20W  (from microwave oven) - one lead connection other end free. This is a basic test of working the granade coil before you continue with other parts like push-pull etc.

The beauty of dielectricity

Void, check the picture I posted last week. http://www.overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/6390/#.VF_Se_msUs8
The fluorescent light behind is only indicator. You can see bulb's wire light. Not strong light that time , but still light on one wire. I have it tuned to better result now.

Sorry guys I am bothering you again with the push - pull but, should I suppress BEMF of the coils   I am thinking to put between central tap and both other end of the coils some diode. Also between the Gate and the Source 10Kohm resistor and small neon to give it some protection.   Isn't it in some way contra-productive to the functionality of that device?