Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11844072 times)

John.K1 · « **Reply #6750 on:** November 11, 2014, 10:51:05 PM »

So what is going on here.

I have no light if ground is disconnected from Kacher's transistor's - emitter.

I just tried to connect one end f bulb to inductor coil (biffilar on grenade) and together with ground it gives me more light. Without ground it light less and takes more Amps 2.12A with ground it gives more light and consumption drops to 1.88A @ 24 V.

Not sure what to do. If to put much more wires and to watch brightness as taking turn by turn off the tesla? Possibly the best way how to make sure the coil is properly tuned for your grounding?

Regarding to your cylinder antenna I have tried it already partially. I say partially as I wound Al foil around the copper turns. My thinking was to get charge locked inside. Not sure now what result I got. I think the frequency of kacher was allover the place jumping up and down.

Void · « **Reply #6751 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:00:42 PM »

Quote from: John.K1 on November 11, 2014, 10:51:05 PM

So what is going on here.
I have no light if ground is disconnected from Kacher's transistor's - emitter.
I just tried to connect one end f bulb to inductor coil (biffilar on grenade) and together with ground it gives me more light. Without ground it light less and takes more Amps 2.12A with ground it gives more light and consumption drops to 1.88A @ 24 V.
Not sure what to do. If to put much more wires and to watch brightness as taking turn by turn off the tesla? Possibly the best way how to make sure the coil is properly tuned for your grounding?

Hi John. Not sure. My results are different than yours for some reason.
If I connect earth ground to one side of the grenade and to the
kacher driver supply negative, my kacher current consumption drops
quite a bit, but the output voltage on the tesla coil also drops quite a bit.
I get best results with my current circuit configuration with earth ground
to grenade but not to the kacher driver. Kacher is not affected by earth ground
much if earth ground is not connected to the grenade at the same time.

If you don't have anything at all connected to the grenade output wires, what is
the current consumption of your kacher driver?

All the best...

URFA · « **Reply #6752 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:03:09 PM »

Hi to all.

I want to learn When you run your device, Does the your grenade coil and the inductor coil heats up?
In my setup, when I run my device 5-10 minutes later top of the grenade coil(12Turn area)is to be hot and 24turn area of the grenade coil is very little warming up.
And Indictor coil of the on grenade does not heat up When I touch.
If anyone try this, can anyone tell me that please?

magpwr · « **Reply #6753 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:25:37 PM »

Quote from: URFA on November 11, 2014, 11:03:09 PM

Hi to all.

I want to learn When you run your device, Does the your grenade coil and the inductor coil heats up?
In my setup, when I run my device 5-10 minutes later top of the grenade coil(12Turn area)is to be hot and 24turn area of the grenade coil is very little warming up.
And Indictor coil of the on grenade does not heat up When I touch.
If anyone try this, can anyone tell me that please?

hi URFA,

For me it was the 25 turns bifilar winding on kapanadze winding 2.5 mm sq which was getting warm.

No heat detected using 4mm sq primary(12-0-12) and 28 turns 4 mm sq on my large nano-crystalline toroid.

For 3.5 turns on toroid i'm using 6 mm sq.

I am using "FGH50N6S2" 600volts 75Amp IGBT without internal diode version.No heat detect here as well just 8c more than my room temperature 30c.

The primary reason i stick with 600volts if let's say there is current if ever returning back from earth at the 3.5 turns.If 3.5 turns becomes primary from the returning current from earth i will need to ensure the voltage build up on 12 turns primary winding (which will become secondary step up along with 28 turns) don't
get blocked by the low voltage mosfet with internal blocking diode example 55volts.
It's my primary reason before building why i choose to stick with 600volts IGBT just to be on the safe side.Snubber circuit provides the protection for IGBT.

John.K1 · « **Reply #6754 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:31:13 PM »

Are you sure you speaking about grenade coil?? it sounds to me more like you speak about TV choke (12 turns and 24 turns)

I didn't get there yet. I will connect that choke once I will get the basic tests done (bright lite when GND connected to grenade coil) Just thinking about it, maybe I should improve my grounding. I have my 1/4" bar just at 30-40cm in ground

Jeg · « **Reply #6755 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:33:57 PM »

Like Magpwr my inductor is getting warmer than grenade itself.

Void I agree with the capacitive coupling and other ways for radiating. In fact, perhaps an aluminum foil plate would be more efficient.

John.K1 · « **Reply #6756 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:45:38 PM »

That capacitive coupling makes me mad

I just putted my home-made big capacitor next to the antena and after some finger burn I got light on my bulb. Once the light is going on so does consumption because that coupling- How to de-couple it??

btw- I got to light my bulb just by connecting one lead to the scredriver laying nearby

Jeg · « **Reply #6757 on:** November 11, 2014, 11:53:50 PM »

Quote from: John.K1 on November 11, 2014, 10:09:51 PM

Hi Jeg.

Possibly you are right. Let me to show you one of his older setup ups (4 month back) which has been made by Ruslan himself and confirmed as working. http://realstrannik.ru/forum/39-kapanadze/134930

John I will test it both ways to see if there is any difference.
About ground, is not an extension of grenade as you think. Capacitor and load interrupts the grenade line. In grenade's line you have to add the 28turns and the connection cables. When you know those lengths then consider about your frequency choice.

URFA · « **Reply #6758 on:** November 12, 2014, 12:40:22 AM »

Quote from: magpwr on November 11, 2014, 11:25:37 PM

hi URFA,

For me it was the 25 turns bifilar winding on kapanadze winding 2.5 mm sq which was getting warm.

No heat detected using 4mm sq primary(12-0-12) and 28 turns 4 mm sq on my large nano-crystalline toroid.

For 3.5 turns on toroid i'm using 6 mm sq.

I am using "FGH50N6S2" 600volts 75Amp IGBT without internal diode version.No heat detect here as well just 8c more than my room temperature 30c.

The primary reason i stick with 600volts if let's say there is current if ever returning back from earth at the 3.5 turns.If 3.5 turns becomes primary from the returning current from earth i will need to ensure the voltage build up on 12 turns primary winding (which will become secondary step up along with 28 turns) don't
get blocked by the low voltage mosfet with internal blocking diode example 55volts.
It's my primary reason before building why i choose to stick with 600volts IGBT just to be on the safe side.Snubber circuit provides the protection for IGBT.

Hi magpwr.

I think I could not express myself

. I drew on the picture(below) what I say.
By the way Your nano-crystalline toroid very nice, I like it

Thank you for your answer.

Best regards.

itsu · « **Reply #6759 on:** November 12, 2014, 08:40:43 AM »

Quote from: Void on November 11, 2014, 10:10:58 PM

This is an initial test of putting a 15W light bulb across the grenade coil output leads and driving
only with the kacher driver................

Hi Void,

impressive, what bulb is it, 220V or 110V?

When using a 25W / 220V bulb on my Grenade (one side grounded), and the Kacher only activated on 24V@1A 1.5MHz, i have some 3mm streamer at the antenna, but no light in the bulb.
Probing the bulb shows a jagged like sine wave signal of only a few volts.

Did you probe across the bulb? What signal do you have there?
How is your antenne wound compared to the bifilar coil (and 3/4 and 5/6 layer of the Grenade)?

No heating up noticed in the Greneade or bifilar coil here, the yoke gets an elevated temperature to the touch, but not much.

Regards Itsu

skywalker66 · « **Reply #6760 on:** November 12, 2014, 09:18:46 AM »

Quote from: Void on November 11, 2014, 10:10:58 PM

This is an initial test of putting a 15W light bulb across the grenade coil output leads and driving
only with the kacher driver.
.....

Well done Void !
I ask for few more detail about your experiment:
In your experriment do you have inductor in place over grenade and bifi ferrite bar between kacher and antena?
Do you try run kacher on bateries to avoid ground loop through power supply ?
Thank you !

skywalker66 · « **Reply #6761 on:** November 12, 2014, 09:21:47 AM »

Quote from: Void on November 11, 2014, 10:45:55 PM

Regarding what people are calling the 'antenna' winding, I believe that you can use a piece of aluminium
or copper foil in a cylinder shape over the 'inductor' winding and it may work just as well.
From my own testing, this 'antenna' winding is acting as a capacitive top load on the tesla coil
and its primary mode of radiation is via the electric field. So I think it is primarily passing
energy to the grenade coil though capacitive coupling (electric field), rather than through magnetic coupling.
If this is correct, and my own testing seems to confirm that it is primarily capacitive coupling to the
grenade coil (it works about the same with an aluminiun foil sheet in a cylinder shape as the radiator),
then it may not matter much at all in which direction the 'antenna' winding is made in. You may
get just as good results with an aluminium foil cylinder as the radiator. Since we don't know
what makes this device work however, you should probably stick to the way Akula and Ruslan did
it until you get over unity, then you can experiment as you like.
All the best...

Good guess ! It realy form a HV capacitor.
But your aluminum foil must not form closed loop ( a sort of short turn). It may work if a split is provided in aluminum foil, like in Akula first device or cibinidze device.

Regards.

Hoppy · « **Reply #6762 on:** November 12, 2014, 10:17:53 AM »

Hoppy · « **Reply #6763 on:** November 12, 2014, 10:22:47 AM »

Hi URFA,

I don't see the 10-12T and 50-60T toroid shown on your circuit schematic in your videos. I see a small TV ferrite yoke and this has two windings but with a different number of turns. Could you please give us some more detail on the ferrite chokes / transformers used in your device.

The performance of your device as shown in the videos looks closer to what we all should be aiming towards. Ruslan's video's show his lights illuminating without any pulsating or variance and this looks suspicious to me.

Void · « **Reply #6764 on:** November 12, 2014, 03:17:49 PM »

Hi Itsu and Skywalker66.
Here are the answers to your questions.

The antenna winding for this initial test was just three turns of wire on a large cardboard cylinder form.
The antenna windings were wound in the same direction as layers 1 & 2 of the grenade coil.
The antenna was placed over layers 1 & 2 of the grenade coil.

I don't have the inductor winding in place for this test. Once I am finished trying different tunings for max light
on the 15W bulb I will try the tests again with the inductor winding in place for comparison.

I did not have the ferrite bar with opposing windings between the tesla coil and antenna for this test.
I will try to compare results with it in place in later tests.

I was using a bench power supply set to 24V for this test. This was just an initial test but I will try with a battery
to eliminate any possible ground loops back to the power supply and see what the difference is.

Itsu, the 15W bulb I am using is rated for 120V, so that may possibly be why it lights and yours doesn't.
The voltage across the bulb is only about 3.4V peak, but it is lighting fairly brightly for that low of a voltage.
It may be a fairly efficient type of light bulb.
You may be able to get a 12V or 24V filament light bulb of some comparable low wattage to light instead if
your 220V light bulb does not light, but I tried a 12V 20W halogen bulb I had kicking around and it did not light at all.
Maybe a 10W or so 12V bulb might light.
All the best...

In the attached scope shot:
Yellow is the voltage waveform across the 15 watt bulb
Blue is a scope probe placed near the end of the tesla coil

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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY (Read 11844072 times)

John.K1

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Void

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URFA

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John.K1

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itsu

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