the whole point of free energy, is to power our homes.


the best way to power a home,
is to give each appliance its own power supply.
sepperate from all others.

this would eliminate the need to install wall outlets,
would reduce the amount of danger (lower wattage, and less cords to damage),
would lessen the need for transformers,
and would be far easier to implement.


if someones expensive,
bulky,
unworkable,
undeveloped,
hard-to-implement-pet-peeve,

can power my computer more efficiently,
than a 6 inch long by 6 inch wide stack,
of simple,
cheap,
easily replaced,
HOME MADE wimhurst generators,

than they should tell us all about it.

@ Scotty1:

Nice video (5 stars) and very nice build there.  I am confused because my physics professor at college said that static electricity can not be made to do work, it is static and that is why it is so named.  After being here on OU dot com for almost 2 years, I now know better.  Heck, I did my laundry today and just for laughs, I took a cfl and held it by the glass tubes while I was folding my sweaters.  Well, that bulb lit up very brightly quite a few times. (lots of static, I don't use dryer sheets)  I would really like to look up that professor and tell him what I have learned.  Lighting a bulb is work...correct?

That is quite an apparatus you have built there.  I can see you put a lot of work into it.  Very nice job.

Bill

Very nice work, scotty!!

I can give you some tips to improve the voltage output of your machine. As a goal, the machine should be able to make sparks of about 2/3 the diameter of the disk.
The first most important thing is to make everything as smooth as possible. Get rid of all sharp edges and projecting points. One thing that will help right away is to trim off about half of the pickup combs, so you will be picking up only from the outer inch or so of the disks. Make the neutral combs cover the same area. Insulate the edges of the sectors on the disks by coating the sectors with varnish or corona dope, except for the area where the pickup combs and brushes will contact. With metal sectors and contact brushes, the pickup brushes and neutral combs can be made quite small. With non-contact corona machines like mine, the brushes need to be larger, but for maximum voltage on either machine, you can eliminate the pickup brushes altogether!! (This does reduce current output, though.) Not the neutral combs, though, these are critical.
The edges of those metal sectors on the disks prevent Wimshurst machines from reaching their full "potential" !! Or you can even get rid of the sectors all together and just use dielectric disks, for even better performance.
Also look to the Leyden jars. The same thing about insulating sharp edges applies here too. Much power can be lost in the jars if you aren't careful. Keep conduction paths dry and spaced well apart.
Dust and moisture on the parts of the machine that are supposed to be insulators can severely lower voltage. But paradoxically, a wipedown of the metal conducting parts with a slightly dampened lintfree cloth can improve performance.
The neutral structures are far more important than many folks realize. They can be a source of leakage, and their positioning is crucial for good performance and maximum voltage and current.

Oh, and, nitinnun, I first studied Kelly's work some time ago. Thanks for bringing it up again. I had forgotten how amusing it was. But if you want to understand electrostatic machines, you really should read some other stuff, and take Kelly with a (considerable) grain of salt.

(edited a speling errror.)

i've been "researching" energy physics.

not the mainstream "hubris-disguised-as-understanding",
but what "i" can figure out, from my own observations on free energy devices.


the horse shoe magnets and magnetic cylinder diode on the swedish wimhurst, "fit together" very well, with my understanding of the physics.
but i have a large amount of "how", to work out.

my intuition says to focus heavily on the horse shoe magnets, and the magnetic cylinder diode.

Hah!
You will soon learn to keep your IC-containing equipment far away from your electrostatic machines!

The way to estimate high voltages in spark gaps is to use a "sphere gap" table and some interpolation. For spheres of diameter greater than the gap distance, they are quite accurate. You can figure about 30 kilovolts per centimeter of gap, if the spheres are large and smooth. Less for smaller spheres or "needle" gaps, but still over 10 kV per centimeter. So you might have hooked your DMM up to anything from 30 to 90 THOUSAND volts. That will definitely cause the meter to give you inaccurate readings. For the rest of its life, if any.

Nothing's wrong with it, it's just fatally inaccurate.

I'm glad you didn't blow your meter, though. If you check the internal fuse you may find out why the ammeter of the one isn't working.

By having the relatively low-impedance meter hooked up, you are indeed preventing the buildup of charge. Unfortunately, the machine, like all electrostatic induction or influence machines, depends on the buildup of charge in order to start working at all. So I'm not sure what you are measuring. But it's easy enough to prove that it isn't giving you 30 volts at 20 amps, isn't it? Got a car headlight lying around?
I still think that you got up to some high voltage and confused your meter, and got lucky and didn't harm it permanently.

"i checked my multimeter on a 9 volt battery, afterwords.
the battery read 8.3 volts, at 2.63 amps.
which is what 9 volt batteries usually read as."

Are you saying that you hooked your meter directly across the terminals of a 9-volt battery, in DC AMP mode, and it read 2.63 amps? No resistors or other loads, just the ammeter across the battery??

And a fully charged 9 volt alkaline battery should read something closer to 10 volts, no load.

Did you hook your multimeter directly across the poles of a nine volt battery, in the DC AMP setting?

Or did you arrange a resistive load, hook the battery to the load, measure the amps thru the load, and the voltage while under load (which is the correct way to do it)?

I understood your statement to mean the first. If the second, good for you and I apologize.

"the multimeters amperage setting, never worked from day one.
it never worked, years before i got this wimhurst."

Yes, that I do understand. But they generally have an internal fuse on the low amp connection, and this fuse commonly blows and is sometimes hard to find.

"positive charge alone and negative charge allone, cannot be measured by any known electronics"

This I disagree with, but again maybe there's a communication problem. Get a NE-2 neon bulb, the kind with two little rod electrodes inside. Tape one lead to a stick and let the other lead stick out. Hold it near the charged electrode of your machine. One or the other of the neon's rods will glow, depending on whether it is near the positive or the negative polarity. No circuit is needed, just the field gradient.
And that's just a single simple example that you can do yourself at home.

the 2 polarities,
are still mixing together,
inside that neon bulb.


one polarity is just passing through the air,
to get into the bulb.

i think that neon bulbs use high frequency AC electricity.
but ANY frequency of AC electricity, can pass through the air.


even the unmixed polarities,
can travel a very short distance through air,
to reach an electrode.