Hi Eldarion,

Great job!  It is very encouraging, seeing DC offset. 


Hello All,
My suggestions (below) for maintaining the "catalyst" as per my email to Eldarion, submitted to all of you for input also and ideas.

1.  I think the RF, feedback, noise, whatever is destroying your input waveforms, has to
go away.  Since your controller does not fit into the center of the iron powder toroid, I
would suggest two things.
     a.  Using shielded coax from the controller to the toroid
     b.  Placing your controller a minimum of 6 feet away from the toroid.

This is what SM said about this problem:
1.  "REMEMBER, all of that noise and hash in your solid state amplifier is in the
output signal !
Now tell me? What do you think is happening inside the extremely sensitive torrid
generator
when you use solid state devices to attempt to create the required precise control
frequencies to make catalyst and produce power???
By the way, your Solid State amplifier generates so much noise that if you measure the
mains wiring you can see noise from YOUR amplifier actually getting back through the
transformer and into the mains input wiring!!!
understand what perfect frequency is."

2.  "When you design an amplifier you try to isolate noise, or hash from the mains
power supply from getting into the B+ and contaminating the output signal, etc.
You can measure all kinds of noise from the mains in your B+ not to mention all the noisy
spikes from the solid state rectifiers giving the direct current to the power capacitors.
All of this is easily measured, or seen on a scope of most solid state audio amplifiers.
NOW design and make a good tube amplifier and you will immediately find a dramatic
difference in the B+ supply measurements and what you can see on the scope.
No more spikes from the solid state rectifiers, almost no hash from the mains power
coming in!"

I am not saying to rebuild the controller, I am saying that SM was explicit that that noise on your
output signal is preventing the catalyst from continuing.

I would also suggest using a battery for your supply, and experimenting outside, far from
any mains or overhead wires.

Next, I would suggest forgetting the HV potential bias on Bob's Coil (for now)  and using
the axially wound magnetic bias, with at least an amp or so on it.  Also, do not forget
to scope the inner windings and the pancake winding's on the top and bottom of the core
to see what you can see.  Jason also suggested the Mag bias to help keep it in catalyst.


Progress, progress,   

Bruce

@Eldarion,

I think you are correct about catalyst. If your effect is similar to my experiments your coils are struggling to gather something to spin.

I haven't had time to read the history here yet but try placing the noisiest part of your controls either in the center or centerline above or below the coils. I'm assuming you have heat sinks and other such surfaces charged with heat or electrostatics on that control. If so, they should be near the center.

If it doesn't work below then try above.

Even then, from what I've read so far, the operating frequencies won't allow a profound result but it should be better and hopefully stable.

This will prove whether your results are related to the problems I have been facing.

BTW:

That disconnect probe enclosed in a metal box.......  You may want to put some distance between the tested circuit and your equipment soon.

I have six scopes. Two of them work right now.

@Bruce,

You missed my point. One of the beauties of a simple tube amplifier is that it will incorporate noise and any other close energy into it's output and clean it up in the process.

I wouldn't change any biasing, magnetic or otherwise, yet. Simply place the coil under or above the noisy electronics and see if the DC float is more frequent. If it is then use that unconnected probe to check for a dielectric gradient in and around the coils. There should be a definite pattern.

I suspect higher potential radially than axially.

My intial experiment, along these lines consisted of a round voice coil sandwiched between two round magnets (the ones with holes in the middle).
I got nothing, of course, until I put a noise source in the center of the coil, also between the two magnets. The noise source is a DC/DC converter for powering Geiger counter tubes. 12 in - 2500 out - nice little blue spark maker. You activate the spark and you have DC from the coil - low voltage but useable current.
My suggestion will just tell me if we are along the same path. If right, we can talk about magnetic fields.

Hmm...

I couldn't even guess what frequency would be best for your coil - I'll have to read more before I will have a chance at a clue. I do know with the single wind controls your inductance is high in all the coils. This means the velocity factor is also low for the collectors...not a good thing.
Most will think low VF means lower resonance point.... yes and no. Lower resonance (conventional resonance) but not as low as it can be and worse yet... lower energy from the collector.
I'll show no more disrespect (you showed me yours and I haven't shown you mine).

Try the earlier suggestion only first. If it is what I think it is I'll show you mine and have another suggestion.

Just sit the part of the controller that has the highest energy level on top of the coil - insulated.

One last thought before I rest these bones 

Go ahead and look at your switch pulse in relationship to the catalyst. You may find the catalyst is only there when the switch is on or off.

Going by your scope shots the natural ringing says the sequence around the toroid would be better around 250kHz.