Luis:
     Felicitaciones y gracias por ofrecer su ayuda y la del senor Torbay
 Como es posible obtener 2.5 kilowats de este motor?
 Es decir de que tamano deberia ser , o potencia magnetica ?
 Cuantas revoluciones por minuto se pueden esperar maximo de este tipo de motor?.
 Les deseo lo mejor. Diego 

Luis: Congratulations and thanks to offer your aid and the one of Mr.Torbay.
 out pf this motor how is it possible to obtain 2.5 watts?
 Say what size it should be or magnetic power?
How many rpm can be expected at the most, out of this type of  motor?.
 I wish you the best .Diego

You only need a couter balance for the rotor magnet. This is not like an overbalanced wheel. At this point I think the builders here are just just trying to replicate with simple prototypes. Mine is made from PVC and other junk from my scrap boxes. As long as it has enough tourque to lift the stator with the ramp, it will continue rotation. If one can achieve this then you can place an induction coil above the rotor to generate electric. From that point we refine and improve to build more effecient and higher power systems.

Hi Madmaxx,

Which way are the stator and rotor magnets polarized? If those are just standard ceramics that are magnetized through the thickness, then it will definately not work the way you have it. Those magnets need to be magnetized through the length so that the north pole faces the rotor directly. Otherwise the field will not be dense enough to give you the needed torque.

God Bless,
Jason O

your lifting wheel (to lift the stator arms) on you rotor needs to be positioned 20 to 30 degree in front of your rotor magnet.. also your magnets (stator and rotor) need to be facing north to north..hope this helps. I have ordered 100 neos to build my second prototype of this motor to help prove whether or not this motor is feasible. with more magnets...I dont think that we will need to cut or grind them.  these are the magnets i ordered  http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B824 ...i wish you good luck on your replication.

Jason Pohl

Madmaxx,
I believe that if you were to make the ramp shallower on your arms, increase number of arms or turn magnets (will come back to this), then you will get better results.

In the torbay patent he shows the arm magnets almost touching eichother. the edges filed down in a way so that the magnets do not interact side to side(with one another) and only interact with the rotor. The important part is that the field be closed more (arms closer together) if you leave a gap between the arms then the rotor magnets will try to find these gaps as well. this could weaken your torque alot! make sure you use a weel on the lifting arm (that rases the stator arms via ramp) to reduce friction/drag. make sure that your rotor magnets and stator arm magnets line up when all down. if you get down and look across the device then they whould all be pointing right at eachother and not with the arm magnets above the rotor magnets. this way you get optimum opposition between magnets(thus creating more torque) also I can not tell the size/power of the magnets you are using but the stator arms may need to be moved closer to the rotor. the closer you get the more torque, but also the harder they are to put down. you need to make sure that you are using a rotor magnet(s) that is equal to the power of the stator magnets. not just because of degaussing but because it will encrease torque.

to get the results you need you may try turning your magnets longwise and mounting them so that more surface area is pointing to the rotor. this will weeken the field but it will close it at the same time. if it is easy and you have the parts i recomend that you use the same setup you have going now only add a few more arms into it. respacing it all of course.

also close attention should be paid to the cuts on the rotor magnet in torbays patent. without these cuts the ends of the rotor magnet would interact with the stator magnets in attraction. the cuts basically face the atracting pole inwords toward the center of the rotor where it is harmless. this is important in rotors using rectangular magnets and few stator arms. based on my trials this device will not produce enough torque with less than 8 stators spaced evenly, if using ceramics (based on size/power) they should be positioned no farther than half an inch from rotor magnets. and no closer than 1/8 inch. (if you have to get that close you need better magnets) there should be no more than half an inch gap between the stator magnets either. but if you are not cutting them do not put them to close or they will attempt to rise on there own not to mention requiring more torque to put down from an up position.

as long as the north poles of your rotor magnets are pointing out at the stators and the stator magnets are pointing north at the rotor then you should get a good reaction. the torque is provided by closing the fields and reducing friction.

to everyone else this device will work. i have not made it yet but am getting closer. (lack of supplies is holding me back) I have gotten the rotor to lift the next stator in line, but lacked the power to go to the next because i spaced my stators to far apart. make sure when positioning the rotor magnets to not line them up directly with the stator magnets when looking down from the top. if you do they will get stuck between stators and reduce over all torque. setting each of the three rotor magnets(or however many you use) just to the left and right of the stator magnets will prevent the magnets from hitting this "speedbump".

also as nas mentioned make sure that the lifting arm is located about 20-30 degrees BEFORE the magnets on the rotor. the next stator in line must be lifted before the magnets reach the one that is already lifted in order to achieve continous motion.

also those hinges on your stator arms may or may not be to stiff, and the weight of the stator arms is going to put some pressure against the lifting arm (slowing down and reducing torque of the rotor). to reduce weight simple cut groves into the bottom of the stator arm thus removing any useless baggage.

I hope this was of some help. I recommend making a checklist of requirements that should be met in building the device. (i.e. spacing, alignment, and friction losses, etc.) to make sure that you have done everything posible to make it work. this will help avoid some trial and error (mostly the error part )

well good luck. I will post all my findings and experiments and ideas along with video once i have finished.

thanks,
danny

Hi, The rotor's outside surface - facing the stator magnets - is one pole - same pole as the stator magnets.
Have a look at Tao's excellent simulations on page 4, these are based on the actual patent dimensions.
A ring magnet with this polorization is very unusal and would need to be specially manufactured. Speaker magnets are unsuitable since they are polarised across the flat surfaces.
A solution I am working on uses a stack of small NgFeB magnets attached to a thin iron former which has the appropriate angles cut into it. This is  attached to an aluminium rotor which acts as a flywheel.

Perhaps we could get the speaker magnet to work by cutting out the south pole and place 2-3 pieces of north pole only together? You can cut this stuff with a tile saw.

A wet tile saw is the only way to cut a ceramic magnet. Any other method will overheat and break. I haven't seen cube magnets at the hardware stores. Perhaps Hooby Lobby? I'll quit talking unitl I make another atempt. Perhaps this weekend. The hallbach array looks like it might have potential.