Author Topic: reducing iron in SS by soaking it in slat water (Read 6093 times)

sucahyo · « **on:** October 17, 2008, 11:39:10 AM »

Just thinking.

I see that many post about conditioning mention brown coloring water at the first step of conditioning. Do this happen because the iron corroding and producing rust? Won't the conditioning step will be faster if we do step to make it corrode faster?

I read that iron do not corrode as fast in NaOH solution.
http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=14127909

I think nickel added in metal to prevent corrotion. So I think if we intentionally corrode the SS we can have SS with less iron.

What if we use salt to reduce the iron. We soak it in high concentration salt water without electrocuting it. We clean the corroding part once a while. Maybe hammering it just in case missing iron make microscopic hole in SS plate. We can start doing normal conditioning step once it stop rusting.

I don't know if this make more bubble though.

Farlander · « **Reply #1 on:** October 18, 2008, 01:38:30 AM »

Hey man, nice idea. Here's what my boat owner uncle told me,

The effect of salt water on ss is that it pits... it eventually will develop specks of rust... I guess the answer is salt water won't really work to build corrosion.

However, I have heart of this new automotive thing called carbon raptor coating, not sure of it's electrical resistance though.

sucahyo · « **Reply #2 on:** October 18, 2008, 02:47:16 AM »

How about burning the SS? corrotion happen exponentially with heat.

The attachment is what I got after burning and clean it with oil.

Soak it in salt water do not corrode it fast. Soak it in drain flusher grain do not corrode it. But burning it and soak it in water will make many rust appear in surface in hour. This brown is iron rust and black color is nickel rust right?

I notice when I burn the SS, it start go brown first, and if we burn it more it will become black. Maybe we should only burn it until it become brown and avoid to make it black.

But compare to Duranza picture. It looks too brown. Maybe we should have to make it light greenish brown?

Anyone know what color we should have for best electrolysis?

sucahyo · « **Reply #3 on:** October 18, 2008, 06:44:59 AM »

Just found out the name. It's called passivation. It usually done with sulfuric acid:
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1142

http://www.shapa.co.uk/pdf/techdata.pdf

And it turn out that black color from heating is not good.

What we actually need to attain for SS conditioning? nickel surface? nickel oxide surface? non iron surface? Chrome surafe?

professor · « **Reply #4 on:** October 18, 2008, 08:38:52 PM »

Quote from: sucahyo on October 17, 2008, 11:39:10 AM

Just thinking.

I see that many post about conditioning mention brown coloring water at the first step of conditioning. Do this happen because the iron corroding and producing rust? Won't the conditioning step will be faster if we do step to make it corrode faster?

I read that iron do not corrode as fast in NaOH solution.
http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=14127909

I think nickel added in metal to prevent corrotion. So I think if we intentionally corrode the SS we can have SS with less iron.

What if we use salt to reduce the iron. We soak it in high concentration salt water without electrocuting it. We clean the corroding part once a while. Maybe hammering it just in case missing iron make microscopic hole in SS plate. We can start doing normal conditioning step once it stop rusting.

I don't know if this make more bubble though.

Those of you that are on well water may have a watersoftener with an additional Iron Out Container which contains a very harsh chemical that removes the iron oxide in your drinking water.
One is Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) and the other I do not remember but it came in a crystallized form and it stings when breathing in the fumes.Its called by other trade Names like White Brite.
Being on a City Water Supply now I do not have any of these Chemical to try and see if they would remove the Iron content in the Chinese Stainless. Chinese stainless so common now ,although it looks good it's useless crap for our purposes.

newbie123 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 19, 2008, 01:09:52 AM »

How much Iron is in 304 and 316L stainless steel? I'm having a hard time finding info.

sucahyo · « **Reply #6 on:** October 20, 2008, 08:17:21 AM »

Quote from: professor on October 18, 2008, 08:38:52 PM

Those of you that are on well water may have a watersoftener with an additional Iron Out Container which contains a very harsh chemical that removes the iron oxide in your drinking water.
One is Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) and the other I do not remember but it came in a crystallized form and it stings when breathing in the fumes.Its called by other trade Names like White Brite.

Nice advice, I think I should add it to my well too

.

For steel grade see this, the one at bottom:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades

For flatware 18/8 means 18% chromium, 8% nickel.

Yesterday I try burning the SS lightly to produce the same color as the real one (gold color). But the light brownish dissapear right away when electrolysis starting.

professor · « **Reply #7 on:** October 20, 2008, 10:06:43 PM »

Quote from: sucahyo on October 20, 2008, 08:17:21 AM

Nice advice, I think I should add it to my well too .

For steel grade see this, the one at bottom:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades

For flatware 18/8 means 18% chromium, 8% nickel.

Yesterday I try burning the SS lightly to produce the same color as the real one (gold color). But the light brownish dissapear right away when electrolysis starting.

Please do not add this to your well these chemical are highly toxic and are used in conjunction with a watersoftener and get metered and processed.the only thing i added to my well was chlorine as it was 23feet deep with an diameter of 56 inches lots of water wanted to kill the bad odor and it worked.
Thought I better advise before you get illor die from that nasty s.it.
professor

sucahyo · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2008, 04:45:06 AM »

Ok, thanks for the warning

.

Farlander · « **Reply #9 on:** October 22, 2008, 01:10:39 PM »

I got a call back about the carbon raptor coating people at ExtremeIon. The coating is 2-4 microns thick and has electrical resistance of 10^9th... anybody want to donate some plates/tubes to be coated?

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Author Topic: reducing iron in SS by soaking it in slat water (Read 6093 times)

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