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Author Topic: Simple Cold Fusion  (Read 19046 times)

Offline aoi3610

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Simple Cold Fusion
« on: January 13, 2011, 01:56:03 PM »
Hello all,

I had put the details of this device on another site, but one of the users there stated that I should pop it in here.

I am looking for thoughts and input.

Please do not ridulce it, I have answered every question a ridiculer could think of and smashed every question.

Whilst the device is stupidly simple, that does not mean it does not work.

I have no interest in the Overunity "prize".

Here it is, the EYE of HORUS.

No doubt the skeptics will say, blah blah blah

THIS IS NOT A HOAX.

This is Aladdin's Lamp, it Produces Phosperous at the top to burn.

The Key is GOLD plating the Pot before you heat it for true "COLD" fusion, however, it works as HOT fusion in just plain Aluminium.

YOU MUST TAKE NOTE OF THE POTENTIAL SAFETY ISSUES NOTED AT THE END.

YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
NADA NADA NADA.

Had to re-iterate this:

If this is doing what I assume it is, then there is serious risk here.
I DO NOT want to hear that the next spate of "Unexplained Deaths" is through unfortunate experimentation with Cold Fusion.

OK.

Here it is, step by step:

Take 1 Can:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tQDC4DrEp7m3iS50VnNyH7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Chop off the top. (mind your fingers.)

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qzbzkYppkMnOkElqwzMMD7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Beat the bottom into a "Dome". It is possible to go further than this.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/knWiRa6e5_yInRk08nYg-ryL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Mark out the Can. For Fill Location and folding lines.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l_8MkPWH5bHq64y11rh9WbyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

(Fill levels are)

Bottom Radius = 65mm (1/2)
1st Fill Point = 32.5mm (16g Lead)
2nd Radius = 32.5mm (1/4)
2nd Fill Point = 81.25mm (4g Tin)
3rd Radius = 8.125mm (1/16)
3rd Fill Point = 101.5mm (0.5g Silicon)
Fill to top.

Crimping the CAN.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pZfI5XvAuDZGrRsMZ6JGUbyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tO0DnVCMIehFWuXK8QJWaLyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IJSCqQRDbR87CiZX0UVpoLyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xEMjo6trc1dpV8zxV551v7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yNwGbGQuvnLBQHHTX0JBULyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Next you can see where i've "cut" the top slightly so I can close up the gap. (Heat retention)
It would be nice to remove the fins, but it is not easy. I have tried.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zuxkXzEJ0YDfw8UbTaElBLyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Good Set of scales and a Pot: Then weight the items.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gQGXOHIm_8KPW3gdI1J_hbyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Lead etc.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PsR0bltfzA4OkWyWiEnmd7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bfIGdhBOMD34d4REjdHZMryL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AuTODSr5WaFNvsX6qgU2yLyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

This is where you learn how good an insulator dry earth is, melting the bits.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3P23owqeOoR9oweJg9NLy7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oZthN8TGgYXIx7Tp3xBzo7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Bit blurry, but you get the idea.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tXlVUaFeHRG1f1majvtdW7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Now, for this attempt I had no Gold plating, it was like 2nd Jan. So I improvised.
Just a speck. 1/64th (imagine, that's all that's needed to plate the can!!)

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c_z2Q1PYEoZ0lZYHfOwkoLyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

So, filling. Starting with this attempts "improvising. (It needs plating really, which I am about to try)

I put just a dusting of Earth on the bottom of the can. (I had given it an extra punch in the middle at the bottom to accomodate this.) The Eye of Horus 1/64 does point at this place? That was my thought at the time.)

The blip of gold is in the middle.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AyL4IWpjHoLiV1uR3hrQKLyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Fill to the first point, 32.5mm with Dry Earth and then drop in the Lead.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ps-xpeIL6OwijkG1aGFRx7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Fill to the next point with dry earth, 81.25mm, then drop in the Tin.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5D_yeork5rl6wagZDH5sibyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Fill to the next point, 101.5mm, then pop carefully in a straw.
Fill to the top with dry earth, leaving the straw in place.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ow0kwyu0P1hSbGb8n1QIlryL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Put the sand down the straw with a "paper funnel" or similar.

You should end up with something like this?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r4bFglwGkG8EZ6uy6eg4gbyL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

Pop it somewhere hot, Gas mark x - (250 - 300 - 400 etc.)
NOT LIKE THIS:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Pm5U0Tcb059WCpqsKa20E7yL4mXGIzqrcL_TTyxlvQo?feat=directlink

The can melts at 600C!!

I have also used the oven, up to about 400C, As long as you like I guess.
The Earth goes really really BLACK once it get's really really hot 4 hours or so at 400 degrees.

It will then allow you to "light" the torch.

WOW, there is nothing in the can to burn, yet still it lights.

IT STAYS HOT FOR A VERY LONG TIME AFTER YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE HEAT.

Dry Earth is a very very very good insulator. The metal will take several hours to cool.
Poor ICE COLD water on it for 5 minutes.

Then watch it burn your hand.

CARE.

however, remember.

NEUTRON Radiation, potential hazard?

If it works for you, then it is I think?

Do this outside is my bet. Away from kids, Pets etc. The Can as Aluminium will stop 88%, if you've plated it in Gold then 98-99%, background radiation only or less.

Do not look down the spout? 0 Protection.

Please DO NOT respond yet, there is another section to go below this one.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Simple Cold Fusion
« on: January 13, 2011, 01:56:03 PM »

Offline broli

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2011, 01:58:07 PM »
Welcome and good luck.

Edit: Just noticed your continuation demand, sorry. Any moderator can delete this post of mine.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy


Offline aoi3610

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2011, 01:59:01 PM »
Here is a Picture of the Eye Of Horus, showing the fractional representation:

https://poor-brother.wikispaces.com/file/view/wadjet.fractions.png/33047917/wadjet.fractions.png

This is how I came to the materials / figures via the Periodic Table and the 2000+ year old "Eye Of Horus" fractions:

You have to note the R shape within the Eye of horus for the reactants.

Fraction Mass Size / Diameter Radius Element / Material
1 130g 130mm NA Dry Earth 1g/cm3
1/2 (R) 16g 65mm 32.5mm Lead - 10.x g/cm3 (+/- Solid / Liquid density)
1/4 (R) 4g 32.5mm 16.25mm Tin - 5.x g/cm3 x (+/- Solid / Liquid density)
1/8 (R) 2g 16.25mm NA Aluminium
1/16 (R) 0.5g 8.125mm 8.75mm Silicon 2.5g/cm3 (+/- Solid / Liquid density)
1/32 DARK wood
1/64 LIGHT wood

The Missing from 63/64
1/64 Tiny Plated NA GOLD 20g/cm3 (+/- depending on Liquid / Solid)

I did not guess.

The Light / Dark is for regulating the "device".

Do you think the above works out by chance?

I keep trying to put this simple bit over;

The can has a surface area of 150cm2, it is 300C in the oven, the surface area of the Lead is only about 1.5cm2, that is 100 times smaller. The Tin is 400 Times Smaller, the Silicon is 1600 times smaller by surface area.

300C @ 150cm2 into 0.15cm2?

Doesn't take a genius to work out it is going to be VERY hot round the SILICON.

The HEAT can only go into the centre of the can, it is coming from all direction, like a magnifying glass.

Enough time and that 300C become 3000C and more, at the centre of the can, and will continue increasing as more energy is put into the can, the hotter the Lead becomes, the hotter it want to become.

The heat travels up the can, forced into a smaller space, into the TIN, this keeps going the tin is only 4g, it's TINY, etc. on to the SILICON.

Offline aoi3610

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2011, 02:08:25 PM »
Welcome and good luck.

Thanks, it does not matter, your post is small.

I have produced about 5 of the above devices;

Once hot it will produce a flame for about half an hour, by which time it has cooled.

Pop it back in the heat, and away it goes again for another 30 mins or so.

When you then dis-assemble it, 4g of the Lead is GONE.

I have only used straight Aluminium, I am this time gold plating a can, which is harder than you can believe.

However, Gold has a much better reflectivity than Aluminium 88% vs 98-99%.

Gold is the Key.

By the way, there is nothing in the can to "burn" per se.

Dry Earth, Lead, Tin, Silicon and Aluminium (The can)

That is it.

The Silicon ends up as a ball of glass. (thats 2000 degrees C on it's own)

Thanks for looking.


Offline broli

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2011, 02:29:39 PM »


Once hot it will produce a flame for about half an hour, by which time it has cooled.

Pop it back in the heat, and away it goes again for another 30 mins or so.

If you put it back does it again have to be 4 hours long?

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2011, 02:29:39 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline aoi3610

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2011, 02:37:15 PM »
Quote
If you put it back does it again have to be 4 hours long?

No, perhaps 20-30 minutes.

Offline aoi3610

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2011, 03:02:39 PM »
Well, I'll say one thing.

It's getting some views.

Thanks for at least looking.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2011, 03:02:39 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline broli

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2011, 06:42:14 PM »
Yeah it always takes a bit of time before a thread catches on. Meanwhile, did you also record this experiment on video? It would be interesting to see how this torch looks and sounds like.

Also if neutrons are emitted, how effective would it be to measure beta decay due to neutron emmision which has a mean life time of about 15 min. The latter detectors are dirt cheap unlike a neutron detector.

Offline aoi3610

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2011, 07:11:06 PM »
Yeah it always takes a bit of time before a thread catches on. Meanwhile, did you also record this experiment on video? It would be interesting to see how this torch looks and sounds like.

I will organise a video, to be fair, it looks just like a candle burning, but without the black off the top. It was only a small flame, perhaps an inch tall. Yellow.

Quote
Also if neutrons are emitted, how effective would it be to measure beta decay due to neutron emmision which has a mean life time of about 15 min. The latter detectors are dirt cheap unlike a neutron detector.

Where could I obtain one of these detectors?
I am in the UK?

Is anyone in the UK that has a Neutron detector live Near Coventry?

If so, fancy a cup of coffee whilst you "test" the "device"?

Just a thought.

Offline broli

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2011, 07:35:38 PM »
I will organise a video, to be fair, it looks just like a candle burning, but without the black off the top. It was only a small flame, perhaps an inch tall. Yellow.

Where could I obtain one of these detectors?
I am in the UK?

Is anyone in the UK that has a Neutron detector live Near Coventry?

If so, fancy a cup of coffee whilst you "test" the "device"?

Just a thought.

I doubt you'll find a lab or university allowing to use their multi thousand euro/pound/dollar neutron detector.

What I had in mind was using a Geiger counter. You confine the setup in a container with the Geiger tube. If neutrons are emitted in about 15 mins the Geiger counter should go nuts caused by beta particles produced by the decay of the neutrons. Its a qualitative experiment rather than a quantitative in order to determine radiation. I mean if the counter reacts at all that should be a big hint to nuclear reactions taking place and if it even peaks at 15min that should be an almost undeniable evidence of neutron radiation.

At least that's my logic  ;D .

Of course weighing is as beneficial. Or especially if you find gold attached to you your lead.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2011, 07:35:38 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline aoi3610

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2011, 08:06:20 PM »
Quote
I doubt you'll find a lab or university allowing to use their multi thousand euro/pound/dollar neutron detector.

Yes, mainly because they couldn't make any MONEY out of this.

Quote
What I had in mind was using a Geiger counter. You confine the setup in a container with the Geiger tube. If neutrons are emitted in about 15 mins the Geiger counter should go nuts caused by beta particles produced by the decay of the neutrons. Its a qualitative experiment rather than a quantitative in order to determine radiation. I mean if the counter reacts at all that should be a big hint to nuclear reactions taking place and if it even peaks at 15min that should be an almost undeniable evidence of neutron radiation.

I like your thinking, I don't have a Geiger counter, but I will have a glance on Fleebay.

Quote
At least that's my logic  ;D .

It sounds like reasonable logic too.

Quote
Of course weighing is as beneficial. Or especially if you find gold attached to you your lead.

Waiting for more Gold Plating fluid, then we will see what happens with 98% Reflectivity.

Offline broli

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #11 on: January 14, 2011, 10:05:24 AM »
Btw what are the specs of your oven. And how do you monitor temperature during those 4 hours.


Offline evolvingape

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2011, 05:20:01 PM »
Hi,

I do not have a Neutron detector unfortunately but I do live 15 minutes drive from Coventry :)

I am interested in cold fusion but have been too busy in other fields of OU to pay it the attention it deserves.

Any chance of a cup of coffee and a demonstration ?

Rob Mason :)

Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #13 on: May 25, 2011, 03:56:58 AM »
I will organise a video, to be fair, it looks just like a candle burning, but without the black off the top. It was only a small flame, perhaps an inch tall. Yellow.

Where could I obtain one of these detectors?
I am in the UK?

Is anyone in the UK that has a Neutron detector live Near Coventry?

If so, fancy a cup of coffee whilst you "test" the "device"?

Just a thought.

  Just reading your thread - hope you're still around.

  I'm retired now, but have used neutron detectors for years and still have ready access to a good neutron detector at the nearby university (In USA though).   
This neutron detector is VERY sensitive, uses helium-3.  And it is very little used now.  Not so easy to transport to UK, though... sorry about that.

If you have any possibility to come or to send a replica-device, I would be glad to test it for you, no charge whatsoever.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy


Offline JouleSeeker

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Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2011, 04:57:47 AM »
PS -- having looked at the evidence hard, I believe that there is a REAL cold-fusion effect... at least at a small level.   Not sure it could be scaled up to a practical level, but if you've done it, I would be the first to cheer!  ;)

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Simple Cold Fusion
« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2011, 04:57:47 AM »

 

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