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Mechanical free energy devices => mechanic => Topic started by: magnetman12003 on October 24, 2010, 11:45:08 PM
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Hi All,
This schematic is a Basic Bedini/Davro circuit modified by me that will spin a 2 inch diameter 2 inch thick Diametric ring magnet at super speeds without failing. The spinning magnets flux field is harvested by the Bedini coil and its hi frequency AC output is fed into a full wave bridge rectifier.
----The input power to spin the magnet is almost 1 watt.----
My intent is to generate more power out than what is used to spin the magnet. THIS CIRCUIT DOES WORK WITHOUT A HITCH. 440 DC volts is the output as soon as the magnet spins. I am concentrating on the current presently. Any ideas on what lamps to use that 440 volts DC can power without burning them out? Remember that voltage will drop when a load is applyed. Current is presently unknown I am going to post a video soon on the You Tube.
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Hi magnetman, good to see you are still at it. I don't know if you have access to European bulbs but 2 of those in series would be a good match I believe. Or 4 x 120 volt bulbs in series. You might get away with 3 x 120 volt bulbs also but it would probably depend on how much current you are getting. If I recall you other setup had high volts but fairly low current output. You could even try with just one 120 volt bulb to see if there's enough current to do anything as a very low current will not likely burn out even one bulb if it's low enough. I've put around 50,000 volts across a 120 bulb but at microamps with not damage to the filament. Nice plasma effects though :)
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Here are the actual components I used in the output rectifier circuit.
I found a source of 120 volt 1 watt bulbs and hope to lite 3 or 4 of them as soon as I get their bases wired up in series. If all lamps light up I will have 4 watts glowing. All 3 or 4 lamps would be powered by a 1 watt input source. This might be wishfull thinking but I am trying it to see.
The 1 inch diameter Diametric ring magnet does not have enough flux power to lite the lamps. If you plan to construct this circuit you will have to first crack your wallet $100 for the 2 inch magnet. More cash for the other components.
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Just my two cents.....
Any circuit like this is an "Impossible overunity generator device"
What you show is a regular transformation circuit of electric power.
There no "extra energy" being generated from such a design.
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Hi,
Here are my thoughts on this: Mind you - no sacred laws are broken.
The Bedini circuit sends a hi frequency AC low power signal to the Bedini coil. NOT SHOWN is the huge 2 inch diameter Diametric ring magnet that is mounted over the Bedini coil. Its attracted to and repells itself away from the WEAKER Bedini coils magnetic field generated by the circuit signal
THAT HUGE MAGNET IS DOING MOST ALL THE WORK. The heavy magnet spin is super fast and if it breaks loose for any reason all hell will follow.
I can see the magnet does the work by metering the INPUT current to the Bedini circuit before, during, and after the magnet spin. If the Bedini coil itself was push/pulling the heavy magnet spin I would have a lot of current draw. Very little input current draw is noticed.
Having said this what happens next is the fast spinning magnets extremely powerful flux field cuts through the Bedini coil inducing hi AC frequency/voltage as its back EMF. I would love to see how the stronger magnet induced back EMF partners with the weaker Bedini coils EMF. Guess I will have to save up for a scope.
All AC EMF is directed into a rectifier circuit which converts to DC which can be managed easily.
Its the weak triggering the strong into action.
The Bedini coil has a weaker magnetic field untill it harvests the powerfull flux field off the magnet.
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Good luck.
Please update us with your findings....
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Here it is. My video showing all the above in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8vK1UlpeMo
Tom
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Great work Tom.
Regards, Penno
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Very nice and clean setup. However your power output calculation is a bit lacking. It's based on human interpretation which can vary a lot. I believe I have suggested in the past to get a cheap DSO for your experiments. This way you can easily acquire the needed data and integrate it yourself to get a highly accurate power figure.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KIwQuTJk9I
all you need to do is cancel back emf
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Hi Tom,
Very good setup!
In agreement with broli but using a much cheaper way, I would like you to check the total DC voltage across the 4 series lamps when your setup runs as shown in the video. I indicated with red (positive pole) and blue (negative pole) arrows in the picture where the DC voltmeter (a digital handheld DMM or any other DC voltmeter) is to be connected, basically across the electrolytic capacitors at the diode bridge output. (at least a loaded voltage of 300-400V DC is expected here so be very careful with the measurement)
Also, I indicated an output current measurement possibility in another picture with a green cross where you can unclip the crocodyle from the lamp wire and insert an ammeter there to learn about the load current the lamps consume.
You can do these measurements separately, one after the other, the bottom line is do the measurements while the setup is running like in the video.
This way by learning the output DC voltage and current, you can have a much better estimation on the actual output power the lamps take, ok?
And assuming the 12V DC output from your power supply and the .125A current is the real input power your running setup needs, you can have a more faithful comparison between input and output powers.
Thanks, Gyula
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Hi,
I just purchased a Digital watt meter on Ebay that plugs into a 120 volt wall socket. Waiting for delivery now. Plan to power the entire setup by plugging it into the watt meter and taking a reading "WITHOUT THE 4 LAMPS IN THE CIRCUIT". The setup can power up like that also without the lamps
Then I will take a reading WITH the lamps lit connected into the powered circuit. Subtracting the smaller from the larger reading will give me a true "OUTPUT" wattage reading for the four lit lamps within 2 percent accuracy.
The "INPUT" power is 12 volts DC at .125 amps or 1.5 Watts.
Thats a given metered many times.
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all you need to do is cancel back emf
How do you cancel a law of physics?
Back EMF can be rerouted or "burnt away" by a parallel diode but it can never be cancelled.
It's always present and there is nothing mankind can do to prohibit the properties of magnetic induction.
Anyone saying different is ignorant and does not know what he's talking about.
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all you need to do is cancel back emf
No need of canceling back emf. It is so easy to recover it! And we have not even to fight the laws of physics, we can do it in peace.
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Hey I doubt you meant it like that, but that sounds exactly like what Bedini's impulse technology is all about : )
Julian
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@Magnetman12003,
I am attempting to replicate your circuit to spin my 2" tube with my bifilar Spiral Knot. My 12 volt relay coil measures 9/100's of an Ohm, yet I noticed an 80 Ohm figure next to the relay in the schematic? Is this the impedence of your 12 volt relay coil? Why would mine measure nearly a thousand times less? Is it possible you're reading off the wrong scale?
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The 80 ohms is the measured resistance of the 12 volt relay commonly used in automobiles. Its very inexpensive and is a small relay.
Tom
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I busted the coil free from the connections, and use the soldered wire ends alone to measure from. Do you measure through the contacts? Are you comming off the blades, or from the naked coil ends? I may just have the wrong kind of relay. What's more likley is that it's the same coil from a relay that has a differnt rating factor. I'll just start over with a new one. Thanks!
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I just soldered onto the external blades coming out of the square plastic relay housing that led directly to the coil inside. Not a coil contact point but both blades connecting to the coil DIRECTLY. A inexpensive 43 ohm 12 volt relay coil will work also.
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This info will save you much time also: Find a 3/16 or 6mm diameter Acetal/Delrin plastic rod and use it as your magnet axle. Check Ebay. It is made out of slippery low friction plastic. The magnet is very sensitive to the material it spins on. I have tried over 100 combinations including bearings but found this as the best and inexpensive so far. Dont use shaft lubricants as they will gum up and slow the magnet spin.
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I'm currently running the 2" on two 1/4" O.D. 1/8 I.D 1" long nylon bushings side to side with a 1/16" brass axel. It might help to use a 1/16" plastic rod inside the nylon sleeves to reduce contact surface. I tried tiny 1/4" precision ceramic boca bearings, but just smashed one in a collision with my 2" sphere. I kicked them apart like working out of a tight boot. The plastic rod sounds great. Thanks alot for the tip. The 2" magnet clocked out around 8k with the expensive ceramic bearings, and down around 3k with the nylon skid sleeves. The plastic rod sounds like it should measure in well, somewhere in between. The walled ceramic is $70. Good luck on your power measurements. I have achieved close to unity, or greater, spinning the giant 2" neo with a secondary wrap and feed back loop. This was coupled with a strong Bemf Bedini charge. I believe strongly that together, the combined output has to be >1.
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Hi synchro, how is it all going with you ?
Gary.
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@DeepCut,
Good! Thnaks. Have you seen any of my Spiral Knot videos?
http://www.youtube.com/user/zebok3
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Hi synchro,
i'm just watching the 'spiral trials' video, can you explain to me what is going on please, it's not clear from the video.
Thanks,
Gary.
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This loopback to source coupling gets this setup to act like a Flywheel Battery.
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Hello all, it's been almost two years since my last post...
Been busy fighting the powers that be but alas, all in vain. It's a rat race and the rats are ahead.
Been following the bedini threads and this is as good a place as any to post my observations.
I'm currently running a three driver coil setup in series and three generator coils also in series.
First observation is that whoever decided to put a bridge rectifier from the collector of the drive transitor must have an unearthly bridge since, every time I attempt to add that component it seriously drags down my rpm. I mean SERIOUSLY. Also, when rectifying the output of my generator portion and feeding back to the source, same thing.
What I have found is this. In both cases, if you impedance match with a capacitor in series to one leg of the bridge, it doesn't slow you down. I guess what I'm saying/asking is this:
Has anyone tried this arrangement? Right now I'm running my motor at < or = to 1. Since all monitoring of my source battery indicates no loss, down to 1/100th of a volt.
Just my 2 cents worth for now...
So far, it works well with the generator portion but I haven't been able to find the correct match for the charging ckt. portion.
Thoughts?
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@Cassman1969,
That's called Lenz Drag. Adding output coils just divides the available current. You need to reposition the coils. You'll need to find out how far away the three need to be to allow for suficient R.P.M. Once that's established, you will notice that you can disconnect two of the output coils and reposition the sole remaining one in closer enough to equal the Lenz drag of the three. At that point only one output coil is needed to generate the same power as three combined.
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@Cassman196,
Thats called Lenz Drag. Adding output coils just divides the available current. You need to reposition the coils. You'll need to find out how far away the three need to be to allow for suficient R.P.M. Once that's established, you will notice that you can disconnect two of the output coils and reposition the sole remaining one in closer enough to equal the Lenz drag of the three. At that point only one output coil is needed to generate the same power as three combined.
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Thank you Synchro1,
Yeah I've been all arround the positioning aspect and, as always, balance point is < than 1. Damn law!
That's why the question and the age old dilema of balance. Just thought I'd throw a different approach out there to see if others had tried.
Best I can do right now is ten minutes run time on my 10000MF cap. If that's of interest I'll be happy to give you the specs.
Still, to be able to cleanly capture the BEMF off that darn tranny and not drag it down would possibly get me over the hump. May go back to the reeds for that...
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@Cassman169,
I have two loops back to back, one trigger power, the other output. I position the neo sphere between the two with instruments. These coupled spiral toroid spheres run at a maximum efficency R.P.M.
Unlike a rotor between two coils, the sphere can spin from the outsides as well.
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Just catching up but this post has me extremely interested. Enough so that I may just sport for that 2" diametric magnetized NEO. Have everything else.
Keep up the good work and I'll be checking in from time to time.
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Nice one casman :)
Gary.
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@Cassman196,
Thats called Lenz Drag. Adding output coils just divides the available current. You need to reposition the coils. You'll need to find out how far away the three need to be to allow for suficient R.P.M. Once that's established, you will notice that you can disconnect two of the output coils and reposition the sole remaining one in closer enough to equal the Lenz drag of the three. At that point only one output coil is needed to generate the same power as three combined.
Hi synchro1,
It is very interesting setup you are mentioning. Could you show a photo on it or at least a drawing if it is not top secret? :) Reducing Lenz drag has always interested me, albeit have had no success so far.
Thanks, Gyula
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@Gyula,
I'll try and post a diagram. In the mean time it's not too difficult to imagine two upright doughnut shaped coils face to face with a neo sphere in bwtween. One coil bifilar, the other output looped back to source. There's only two variables for positioning; The distance between the coils and the relative distance of the sphere to one or the other. The power coil accelerates the spinner, the output slows it down. Look at the Spiral Knot trials video on my youtube channel. you'll see me spinning a 1" sphere right in the center of a Spiral output coil in resonance at peak efficiency R.P.M.'s. The rotor is at very high speed around 50K. inside a pvc coupling. The power consumption without the feedback loop is much greater. The trade off's pretty cleanly balanced this way. The wrap around coils offer nearly the same basic relationship as Bedini's window motor. I believe it's capable of even greater efficiency because it's bearingless; The higher R.P.M.'s tightens the pulse width and helps conserve on input.
http://www.youtube.com/user/zebok3