Hi All,

I measured the setup from my last circuit using two caps charging the ultra-cap, the voltage initially rose to 2.247v but has now dropped to 2.241v (-0.006v) after 2 days. Have to keep experimenting with different setups.

@Plengo, That is a great setup you have working. What would be the current draw from a small incandescent lamp?

I tried many different lamps and LEDs and they all differ. It can go from 200ma to micro-amps. Lower the resistance of the lamp more current it uses.

LEDs have an special characteristic in their minimum "avalanche" voltage (forward voltage?) that limits somehow the minimum current consumption also when they are put in series that voltage is higher which ALSO allows a fine balance where the current consumption is minimized and the "output" from the Captret (my 25 watts LED in my diagram) is the maximum.

I also noticed that when this balance is reached the performance overall is tremendously improved, that is to say, power usage of input is the lowest and power output is the maximum.

One of my experiments I can clearly see that for the price of lighting one LED (3.6v led) and a miserable less than 2ma input I can light 4 LEDs (3.6v). I have not measured the current in the output yet but I will do many more experiments too.

Fausto.

I tried taking an scope shot of the positive of the "output" LEDs and negative and it is very difficult to see anything. My scope is a 20mhz. I also tried another analog scope 200mhz but nothing usefull (at least for me).

I noticed that there are some spikes that are so shart and fast that the scope has difficulty showing. In this picture is kind of visible right at the center of the scope. Noticed that I am using 10x probe for better sampling and it is at my maximum voltage division of 50mv.

The time division is at 5us. This is channel 1 (red line).  I would say that this little visible spike can be high as 2 division marks making it up to 100mv but one must stay and watch the scope running with a lot of attention.

I would assume those spikes are simply an artifact of the real energy lighting the LEDs which may not be really measurable by this kind of electronic equipment. Sounds like a pure "Radiant Energy" phenomena, but hey, what do I know about it?!!!

Fausto.

measured

Initially I was very excited about this so I set out to take some measurements.

Procedure:
Measure the resistance between all of the contacts (leads)
How I did this was to:

1 Take a pair of leads & hook the DVM to them separately
2 Short them together
3 Release them
4 Let the DVM settle
5 Record the resistance reading

I did this for all of the possible combinations. I also swapped the leads of the DVM and repeated 1-5

My measurements resulted in the following in Mega Ohms:
- & + = 13 Meg
o & - = 6 Meg
o & - = 8 Meg
o & - & + = 10 Meg (this was a weird one ... did it several times)

With my dead Alkaline 9V @ 7V the driver circuit lit a red led at a dim output. I also lit the same led to the same dimness with a 6.8 Meg resistor directly to the battery.

I also measured 4.3 ma flowing from the battery to the Captret and 3.4 ma flowing from the Captret to the led.

The Casing & - form a small capacitor in addition to the - & +

THE ELECTROLYTE LEAKS ENOUGH CURRENT TO DRIVE AN LED

So make your own measurements and make a wise decision. Over Unity ? You decide. The enthusiasm was encouraging, but keep trying though.

I'm going back to the "This Is It" thread on Energetic Forum ... good luck

Isn't your current a little high? The current should have gone down over time if you have used the original circuit.

And if you're using the original captret design, then that one was never set out to be overunity but merely a LED driver circuit. Its the captret circuits that charge themselves is what is interesting. I've got a few that charge themselves from a standing voltage. Lasersaber got a super cap charging it self. Many others are seeing the same effect.

I think you may have jump the gun on this one. But thanks for the insight.

Revealing the Mystery of Negative Impedance, http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Talk:Circuit_Idea/Revealing_the_Mystery_of_Negative_Impedance

Negative impedance converter, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negative_impedance_converter

GB

Miller Theorem, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miller_theorem

GB

If the elements get 'cold' then the "Negacaptret" would be a 'negative' device.

Well, I have a dead NiMH battery hooked to 250V 47uF cap, case fed back to -.  Presently at 0.3591VDC.  It's a 'hidave fast charger'.  We'll see what happens  by morning.  It's 9:20 PM mountain time.

at 10:00 PM mountain time the Captret is at 0.3631 VDC. The heater went on in the room and I thought that may account for part of it, so I looked at the curve for the NIMH battery for capacity vs temperature and it really can't account for the rise, so ibpointless2, I am feelin' the self charger but not the led driver.

Greg

oops, here's the right one. You dont need Spdt switch if you dont have one..

Just pull out the LED and hook up Cap - to anywhere on the side of the caps.

this got deleted?

DIY low cost Large Electrolytic Capacitor

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
USE PRECAUTION - Wear gloves, mask, eye goggles etc, Use Safety and Common Sense. I am not LIABLE for anything.

It is possible to construct a very large electrolytic cap quite easily.

Materials:
2 - Roll of paper - I use brown kraft paper, must withhold wet fluid. I soak paper in electrolyte for about 1 hr to get good saturation.
3 - Roll of Aluminium Foil (2 rolls thickest ones you can find, 1 roll thinnest one you can find)
Electrolyte - 50% Antifreeze
ribbon wire or you can cut a strip of thin copper sheet 1/6" wide +- depending on cap size
12 ga insulated wire for post.
Empty can with lid (paint can Hardware Store, remove inside paint with wire brush or paint strip acid, recycle canned food, aluminum soda cans etc. - best result with aluminum) .2" taller than paper.

Soak paper in electrolyte for 1 hour to ensure good saturation.

Start rolling 1 layer of paper and make a coil of about .5" thick, then double up the thick aluminium and add to coil creating a spiral coil - bi-filar, Foil must be shorter than paper about .5" is good as to avoid shorting if it contacts the top of the metal enclosure. Keep the coil as tight as possible, when coil thickness is large enough to pass hole on cap, attach your ribbon wire or copper strip and tape securely with cellophane tape. Wire runs down from top to bottom of coil at 90 degrees. Make one more turn then add second layer of paper, one more turn then add the layer of thinner foil. A few turns then atach ribbon wire in the same manner and secure. Now make enough of the coil to fill the can leaving .2" space when placed inside the can. Wrap the outside of the coil with cellophane tape securely and place in can. Solder ribbon to conduction post.

Ensuring that the wire cuts down at 90 degrees perpendicular to the coil, just like in a electrolytic cap. Drill 2 holes on can cap, hole size to tightly fit conduction wire. Cap the bottom end to prevent leakage. Tape cap down securely with aluminium tape etc to make sure it is air tight.

Hook up to a battery, test for polarity and mark on the can.


Pesto, Ultra captret