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Author Topic: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison  (Read 525650 times)

ibpointless2

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #990 on: July 14, 2011, 02:06:39 AM »

ibpointless2

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #991 on: July 14, 2011, 02:14:07 AM »
Here's a video that talks about Marcus Reid crystal batteries. Its broken in 3 parts, in part 3 they show the cells powering clocks and such but here is part one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-wzLhzBH3Y

mscoffman

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #992 on: July 14, 2011, 08:28:16 PM »
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqUyqR2t1Bo

video of my latest cell.

Would be interesting to spray the paper backing card with
plastic mat finish coating. Could be that RH Relative Humidity
plays a role as an electrolyte. Would be very interesting, if it
didn't as a true crystal cell.

:S:MarkSCoffman

ibpointless2

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #993 on: July 15, 2011, 01:15:58 AM »
Would be interesting to spray the paper backing card with
plastic mat finish coating. Could be that RH Relative Humidity
plays a role as an electrolyte. Would be very interesting, if it
didn't as a true crystal cell.

:S:MarkSCoffman



I actually did that when i first started making glue cells. I sprayed black paint all over the cell and waited 2 days to see it still worked and it did.

I'll try to do this with the latest cells after I get done with the shorting out test which are going very well. One cell been shorted out for 2 days straight and still bounces back to original voltage and has no corrosion either.

AbbaRue

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #994 on: August 12, 2011, 06:17:28 AM »
Finally John reveals the secret to making a crystal battery. 
Move forward to 11:25 into the video to get to the actual process.
It should be cream of tarter and sodium carbonate, not bicarbonate.
it's a common swimming pool chemical, I got it at Canadian tire as "Aquarius #4   pH+ "
Read the ingrediants on the container.
Also watch out on the cream of tarter, most stuff out there called cream of tarter is fake or mixed with corn starch. 
McCormick Cream of Tarter was the only true source I could find.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xf_JBnDOBw

Copper tube, Galvanized nail
1/4 cup Rochelle Salt
1/2 cup Epson Salt
500 mg Calcium Carbonate
500 mg Iron Pyrite
500 mg Galena
500 mg 99.9 % silver
I think I got them all?

Mix together dry and heat over flame until you get a thick syrup texture. 
Place in copper tube and insert nail.
Quickly zap with 12 V DC.  and you got a crystal battery. 


I didn't check out all the previous posts, so if someone already posted this video link, SORRY!
« Last Edit: August 12, 2011, 07:02:55 AM by AbbaRue »

AbbaRue

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #995 on: August 12, 2011, 06:51:37 AM »
@ibpointless2
Maybe the glue you used would work better then the Sodium Silicate John uses. 
The Sodium Silicate is only used as a gluing agent in his cell as well. 
I'm thinking: John's mixture, Elmer's glue,  copper wire, galvanized wire, zap of 12 V DC.
The longer the wires, the more current output.

plengo

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #996 on: August 21, 2011, 07:00:48 PM »
my crystal cell development: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psKOtLOn5y8

Fausto.

nightlife

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #997 on: August 21, 2011, 08:44:17 PM »
 Good job Fausto. Thanks for sharing. I am looking forward to seeing more from you.
 I am going to do some testing with different size boards as you have shown. I will post my findings as well.

nul-points

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #998 on: August 21, 2011, 09:14:27 PM »
 
my crystal cell development: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psKOtLOn5y8

Fausto.

hey Fausto

very nice work with the crystal cells!

i like the 'goo' - how long does it take to solidify?

you mentioned that your 10 x 1.4V 'battery' o/p drops to under 3V when connected to the LED - that would be the LED operating voltage acting like a zener on your supply

you could try reconnecting the cells from '10 in series' to '5 sets in parallel', each set being 2 cells in series - this should give a nominal o/p of approx 2.8V but at a higher current capability - may give you a brighter LED - or longer operation (or both??)

just an idea


i also started using copper-backed PCB for my cells - originally i used copper foil, but the PCBs give much better strength & stability to the cells (see attached photo) - my cells use Zinc foil though, not magnesium, so each cell o/p is only about 0.8V


keep up the good work!

thanks
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com
 
 
 

plengo

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #999 on: August 21, 2011, 09:58:53 PM »
if you put the "paste" mix on the sun it will dry pretty fast, actually too fast but letting it just sit takes days.

It bubbles a lot in the beginning with the formula I am using, so I am trying a new formula.

I use 2 parts alum, 2 parts rochelle, 1 part calcium (lime stone powder), 1 part of epson unscented salts, dusts of galena rock and dusts of silver. A "part" is a unit of anything you want to be. In my case it was about 1 table spoon.

I mixed and imidiately it started to bubble and foam like a cake in the oven with lots of ferment. I applied that to the board and position the Magnesium little square foils on top. It was a huge mass after over night. Foam grown too much. It took a great amount of work to clean up so that the copper cells do not short and all looked clean.

My next formula does not have Epson salts since they are too big of crystals. No heating and not water added VERY IMPORTANT.

I am also letting my next 13 cells version cell mix to sit in a container as it grows and harden. I will use it when it stops bubbling and growing and it is manageable like a chewing gum where I will apply to the copper board and apply the Magnesium little square foils. This way it will be much cleaner.

I also added a little bit of silicate so that it will absorb water from the air and keep things a little bit moistened but just enough without causing galvanization.

Let's see what will happen on next version.

Fausto.

nul-points

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #1000 on: August 21, 2011, 10:31:43 PM »
thanks for the update - an interesting mix!

i agree, it's good to experiment with compounds which avoid galvanic action on the electrodes

you're getting very good initial power o/p - but i think you mentioned that the LED dims after a few days?  It would be interesting to see if there is some load value which your cell can sustain indefinitely

on my cells, the load capability they can sustain is very low (of the order of Mohms), but maybe your cells can deliver a better sustained o/p into a lower value load?

i'm very impressed with the magnesium foil - i didn't know it was possible to buy that - very cool!

looking forward to your future developments with this technology

thanks for sharing
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com
 

plengo

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #1001 on: August 22, 2011, 12:57:14 AM »
and my compound mixture in very early stages. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxDYk3R0WzQ

Fausto.

ibpointless2

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #1002 on: August 23, 2011, 02:08:15 AM »
I made a Dry Crystal Cell battery that does not need water. If the cell comes in contact with water it will be destroyed so its best to keep the water far way from this cell. No water is needed, never, no water to get it started or to keep it going and like I stated water will destroy the cell so keep water away from it. This cell also functions when heated to a high temperature, which many crystal cells can't do.

This cell functions much like the glue batteries but without the glue. I have left out Epsom Salts and Rochelle salts do to the fact that these salts you buy contain mostly water.

The ingredients are: Salt substitute by Morton, Alum by McCormick, Borax by 20 mule team. The electrodes used are copper and Magnesium.

I would also like to say that this cell is not perfect, i'm still testing it and making it better and any input would be great. Its been powering my LCD clock for a good bit of time, far exceeding the glue cells.

Also be careful when making these cells, stoves and chemicals can be dangerous so use caution. Here is the video on how to make the Dry crystal cells
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EWATxAJooE


TEKTRON

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #1003 on: August 24, 2011, 10:27:49 AM »
if you put the "paste" mix on the sun it will dry pretty fast, actually too fast but letting it just sit takes days.

It bubbles a lot in the beginning with the formula I am using, so I am trying a new formula.

I use 2 parts alum, 2 parts rochelle, 1 part calcium (lime stone powder), 1 part of epson unscented salts, dusts of galena rock and dusts of silver. A "part" is a unit of anything you want to be. In my case it was about 1 table spoon.

I mixed and imidiately it started to bubble and foam like a cake in the oven with lots of ferment. I applied that to the board and position the Magnesium little square foils on top. It was a huge mass after over night. Foam grown too much. It took a great amount of work to clean up so that the copper cells do not short and all looked clean.

My next formula does not have Epson salts since they are too big of crystals. No heating and not water added VERY IMPORTANT.

I am also letting my next 13 cells version cell mix to sit in a container as it grows and harden. I will use it when it stops bubbling and growing and it is manageable like a chewing gum where I will apply to the copper board and apply the Magnesium little square foils. This way it will be much cleaner.

I also added a little bit of silicate so that it will absorb water from the air and keep things a little bit moistened but just enough without causing galvanization.

Let's see what will happen on next version.

Fausto.

Fausto, the alum is acidic when mixed with water. The calcium carbonate when exposed to acid makes CO2. That makes all the bubbles. The CO2 is needed to make the sodium silicate"glue " set up or harden. My advice to you is to skip the calcium carbonate(CO2 generator) and the alum(CO2 generator acid). Mix as before. apply wet. Then gas your parts in a tupperware container, containing a seperate container of baking soda and HCL or vinagar, or for that matter you could use alcaseltzer . The gas generated is CO2. The sodium silicate should set rock hard in less than 10 minutes. google making casting cores.
Keep up the good work ;D, John

plengo

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Re: Crystal Power CeLL by John Hutchison
« Reply #1004 on: October 03, 2011, 07:19:26 PM »
and some more research:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANRgeF5rdhQ

Fausto.