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Author Topic: Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!  (Read 185979 times)

lasersaber

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@ GroundLoop

I love your drawing of the Stubblefield coil.  I did take the liberty to make some modifications to represent the way my own coil is functioning.  First off, all my wires are exiting on the same end of the coil (this is also how it is pictured in the patent).  Secondly, while I did put a secondary on the coil in the begining, I soon unwound it and I never did use it to power the pulse motor.  My motor has always been powered by the primary windings themselves.  Third, as has been mentioned earlier, the coil is running dry.  I did origionally wet it in salt water, but since then I have not added any water at all.  It's been 75 days now running dry, though I am sure that air humidity is maintaining a low level of moisture in the coil.

BTW, this is what I meant when I used the term "self-runner" - that it is currently running on it's own without active input.  It still remains to be seen how long it will run like that.  Again, I do not claim that this is OU.  Personally, I do believe a certain amount of galvanic action is taking place, but I still find it fascinating that the coil is able to run for so long without having to add moisture.  I am not trying to prove anything or to win any prize - it's just my hobby which I am sharing with others who find it interesting. 

Bob Smith

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Quote from Groundloop:
Quote
The Copper and Iron together with water forms a galvanic battery.
But we also have a coil and a core so if we short circuit the coil
for a short time then we can use the changing magnetic field to
run a magnet/rotor. An insulated pickup coil can be added on the
outside of the coil for various purposes.

@Lasersaber - great work!

Thanks GL for the visual - very helpful.
Would it be reasonable to propose that a properly wound pickup coil might be driven to resonance?

I'm thinking about Gerry Vassilatos' account of Stubblefield heating his cabin with 2 polished metal plates - presumably drawing on SEB technology - and wondering if resonance could be a key factor here.  By driving the pickup coils to resonance, if only in brief pulses, is it possible that a kind of access point to the aether's inpouring of energy is actualized.  I believe it could account for the heating of plates and much more.

Edit: clarification added.

Rosemary Ainslie

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Hi lasersaber

I see in your videos that there's early evidence of current and voltage in the windings without any water at all.  Have you tried this - ever - without using any water on the coil?

Regards,
Rosemary

lasersaber

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@Rosemary

I have tested voltage on brand new, unwet coils, but I don't remember the exact results.  I'm currently winding some more minicoils for my latest project.  I'll test one of them dry before wetting it down at all.  I'll post any results when I have them.

Rosemary Ainslie

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@Rosemary

I have tested voltage on brand new, unwet coils, but I don't remember the exact results.  I'm currently winding some more minicoils for my latest project.  I'll test one of them dry before wetting it down at all.  I'll post any results when I have them.
Many thanks
Rosemary

Pirate88179

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Here are some photos of my crude attempts at this from a while ago.  As I have said, we all did learn a few things and, yes my coil, seen here with one layer of windings only, did have an output after building and before placing in the ground, when it was totally dry.

So to answer a few questions asked of me here, yes, the 2 metals are totally insulated from each other and yes there was a dry output, although not as much as after I wet it and let it dry.  No other electrolyte was added.

Lasersaber put it best and it basically summed up our understanding of this coil from back then in that it is partially some sort of galvanic reaction and also it is something else.  Otherwise, if galvanic was all this ever was, why would NS's coils not break down after years in the ground?  Maybe it is a very, very efficient type of controlled galvanic reaction?  I do not really know and do not claim to know.

The 2nd and 3rd photos are of my larger coil which actually has 2 layers of primary such that all the wire ends can be on the same end as NS has done it and now Lasersaber.  The max. mA's output from this small coil was 47.2.  The core was a galvanized iron spike that had very strong attraction to my test neos in the store.

I hope this answers those questions asked of me but, I am telling you that Lasersaber is setting the pace here and is far beyond what our group was able to do.  My suggestion is that for those that see this as I, and many others do, keep following and try replicating.  For those who think it is nothing new and not worthy of messing with....then don't.

Bill

yaz

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The secret is in the rust.

When I was searching for iron oxide, I came across a page that said that iron oxide is like miniature diodes. A crystal diode inside a crystal radio works without any batteries or galvanic cells. Maybe that's what's happening when the coil dries out? It converts ambient rf  along with the back emf from the coil and it keeps on running.

A crystal radio works better with a good ground rod, maybe try grounding out a coil or ? and see if it improves.

Better yet check out this page:
http://home.earthlink.net/~lenyr/ntype-nr.htm

He used galvanized iron wire and ALUMINUM wire and made a NEGATIVE RESISTOR.

Someone else made a negative resistor by heating up galvanized sheet metal till it turned black and those little black spots had negative resistor characteristics.

Maybe wind a galvanized steel wire and copper coil and heat them both with a propane torch till they have brown/black oxides on them and see if it runs any better/longer. I would definitely try the galvanized wire and aluminum coil for sure.

See page 25 on this homemade diode pdf, it says that steel corrosion (rust) is a negative resistor....hmmmm
(This pdf file is 3.9M long, I would post a snapshot of the page but don't know how)

http://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/diy-diodes-nisley.pdf

Lasersaber, damm good work man! You're definitely on to something there!

lasersaber

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Yaz,

Great post!  This gives me a lot to look into and some new ideas for experiments.  I really appreciate your input.

nievesoliveras

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What I usually do with a bad post is I just ignore it and the person goes away.
If you get involved it is like putting logs on a dying fire.

Post only things that help the topic like graphics or photos, even a schematic.

The person will see that you support the topic without getting involved with the person on a long discussion that apports nothing to the cause.

For me this died here.  I just want to get the energy problem solved.

Jesus

powercat

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Hi lasersaber
I watched all your five videos on how to make the coil, very well presented and easy to follow.

Have you ever tried running 2 magnet rotors one at each end of the coil, if this was to work would you find that the rotors rotate in opposite directions to each other ? only a thought.

The little baby coil you made is looking great and performing very well for its size compared to the big one

all the best
cat

Groundloop

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Re: Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!
« Reply #100 on: September 06, 2010, 06:48:04 PM »
@lasersaber,

You are doing great work. Be prepared to wait a very long time before
you motor is running to a stop. Also, thank you for the clarification of
your now dry salt water NS coil.

Keep up your great work.

Groundloop.

Rosemary Ainslie

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Re: Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!
« Reply #101 on: September 06, 2010, 07:35:59 PM »
Here are some photos of my crude attempts at this from a while ago.  As I have said, we all did learn a few things and, yes my coil, seen here with one layer of windings only, did have an output after building and before placing in the ground, when it was totally dry.

So to answer a few questions asked of me here, yes, the 2 metals are totally insulated from each other and yes there was a dry output, although not as much as after I wet it and let it dry.  No other electrolyte was added.

Lasersaber put it best and it basically summed up our understanding of this coil from back then in that it is partially some sort of galvanic reaction and also it is something else.  Otherwise, if galvanic was all this ever was, why would NS's coils not break down after years in the ground?  Maybe it is a very, very efficient type of controlled galvanic reaction?  I do not really know and do not claim to know.

The 2nd and 3rd photos are of my larger coil which actually has 2 layers of primary such that all the wire ends can be on the same end as NS has done it and now Lasersaber.  The max. mA's output from this small coil was 47.2.  The core was a galvanized iron spike that had very strong attraction to my test neos in the store.

I hope this answers those questions asked of me but, I am telling you that Lasersaber is setting the pace here and is far beyond what our group was able to do.  My suggestion is that for those that see this as I, and many others do, keep following and try replicating.  For those who think it is nothing new and not worthy of messing with....then don't.

Bill

Hi Bill.  Was rather distracted and missed this post entirely.  Very interesting indeed.  Especially the point that the voltage/amperage is evident on a dry coil.  I saw that in lasersaber's video as well.  The thing that intrigues me is this.  The voltage level is evident from the first coil turning.  Then it increases - presumably at a fixed rate - with each subsequent turn.  But the voltage is then increased with the damping so one may assume that there is some kind of galvanic action.  Frankly to establish what actually is going on here one would need to wrap a coil with only copper - then only iron - both with and without the secondary - and both with and without the damping - to really evaluate what's going on.

If it persists with only the copper winding or only with the iron winding - then we are simply looking at collapsing fields - basic inductive technologies - that is enabling this.  That would be a massive prize - even if the fields are ultra weak.  Provided it spins that rotor then there's potentially usable energy.  If the two metals are required - but they work without water - then we've still got a breakthrough.  It would mean that we can generate energy without the complication of that acid or alkaline mix in regular battery technology.  I'm hopeful here - only because of the one video I saw where a second coil was introduced and it was pure copper and it seemed to act like a booster to the general efficiencies.

And finally - if it requires the rust and the rest - then we've got a rather long series of tests to actually isolate what's happening.  But I'm up for it.  I need to lean on the goodwill of a friend of mine that I can use his labs.  My time is pretty constrained at the moment - but for this I'll definitely try and 'fit in' and will post results.  I'll do that copper - then iron - then both 'combo' - to check it out.  But I need guidance with the magnet rotor number.  What is the material of the magnet holder and what positions does one put those magnets?  Are the opposing? like? - perhaps lasersaber can advise us.

Kindest regards
Rosie

edited
« Last Edit: September 06, 2010, 08:04:24 PM by Rosemary Ainslie »

lasersaber

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Rosemary Ainslie

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Re: Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!
« Reply #103 on: September 06, 2010, 07:41:05 PM »
Great stuff lasersaber.  Are those coils 'damped' at all? 

Regards,
Rosemary

Rosemary Ainslie

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Re: Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!
« Reply #104 on: September 06, 2010, 08:00:38 PM »
Sorry to impose lasersaber - but another question.  My eyesight is awful.  I heard you say that with the two windings the one goes underneath the other?  But what I see on both yours and Bill's coils is that the wires are side by side?  Please advise which is correct.  I can't quite tell from the pictures.

Kindest again
Rosemary

OH.  And BTW.  Please give me some idea about the rotor construct - material and positioning of the magentic poles.  Sorry if you've explained this before.  I just didn't pick up on it.  I get it that there's a bearing positioned in the middle to hold the pin.