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Author Topic: The Bucking Magnet Motor  (Read 180614 times)

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #135 on: October 29, 2011, 02:15:53 AM »
i have made the same thing you have at my shop
Wut U say?  You built the UABMM2?  Or the Mill?

I gotta say you picked a bad time for help on a magnet motor.  I feel like I could probably do this, if I had a research budget, and I don't, and it seems like you don't either.  If you are determined to make a free energy device an alternator would be a much more practical choice.  Then couple the alternator to an open system, like the wind, and there you go.  Its not that I don't want to help, but magnet motors are on my shit list right now.  Go look at the Dia. Mag. Alternator thread, its a much more practical, and useful device, that you can actually make work, unlike the dubious magnet motor.  I gotta say that if you have the impetus to build stuff then you are way ahead of the masses, but the Magnet Motor is the wrong way to go.  Take that Neodymium magnet, put it on a shaft and spin it next to some coils instead.  Pick something that is within your scope of feasibility, and not too much of a challenge.  Once you get a success, then pick a more challenging project...

Look at the DiaMag7 specifically...

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=9220.msg279698#msg279698

Then look at DiaMag8...

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=9220.msg289063#msg289063

DiaMag8 Test...

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=9220.msg300666#msg300666

More power to you in your experimentifying...

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #135 on: October 29, 2011, 02:15:53 AM »

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #136 on: November 04, 2011, 11:09:44 AM »
Over this week I have gathered the materials to make a new mount for the UABMM2.  First I'm going to a larger shaft, and I picked up a piece of 1/2" steel round stock.  I picked the softer material this time because I need to machine a keyway into it for the split taper bushing.  A split taper bushing is used to hold pulleys and sprockets to a shaft, and should work perfect for holding the rotor.  Also had to get 1/2 inch bearings, for the new shaft, and the end plates to hold the bearings.  I had to order another plate of AMS4051, had one in stock.  So now I have the plates marked up to make the bearing mounts, and am ready to start machining them.  The new arrangement ill be similar to the way it is now, with the four threaded rods being the main support structure, but I am removing the DiaMag6 alternator in favor of the new support plates.  When I get the UABMM2 running I plan on designing a new alternator which is scaled to the UABMM2 plate size, and based on the DiaMag8 alternator.

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #137 on: November 07, 2011, 02:54:57 AM »
I did get a little time to work on the UABMM2 this weekend.  Cut the new shaft and fitted the split taper bushing.  I spotted the holes in the new bearing mounting plates using a 1/4 inch, 90 degree point,  M42 Cobalt spotting mill.  Then bored out the holes in the plates to make the stack using a step drill.  The sacrificial block is the same on I used to machine the UABMM2 Motor plate, so the holes already fit.  I used the 7/8" inch counter sink to make the countersinks in the back of the sacrificial block.  And then  I am using grade 8, 1/2 inch countersunk bolts to hold the stack together while I am machining the shapes in the stack.  Again, like the other radiused cuts I have made, I am using my Z Axis stud which I jam into the table to be the center of the radius, and the cam action table clamps to hold everything to the table during cutting.  I should have the new bearing mounting brackets cut in another day or so...

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #137 on: November 07, 2011, 02:54:57 AM »
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Offline Reisender

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #138 on: November 08, 2011, 10:54:50 PM »
Respect to great work!! Have you tried to accelerate the engine at least 1300 rpm and more?  All "real" magnet-motors must be pre-accelerated before they "hook up into”!

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #139 on: November 09, 2011, 12:42:32 AM »
Thanks Reisender,
So I might need a starter motor?
I hadn't thought of that, but I'll keep it mind...

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #139 on: November 09, 2011, 12:42:32 AM »
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Offline Reisender

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #140 on: November 09, 2011, 11:08:45 AM »
Yes absolutely! That is how it has to be done. If Perendev has told.

SEARL Engine runs in such a way. (Smoke have confirmed it.)

The engine PM3 is begun thus.
http://pes wiki.com/index.php/Directory:Magnetic_Motors:PM3

Gives an interesting history in addition from an amateur handicraftsman, name Harry. He has inserted a brake in the form of an openable door with his engine. After acceleration on rmp 1300 the engine accelerated and went immediately on rmp 50000. This Harry could not react. Everything broken.

Sorry for bad Englsich. It is an automatic translation.

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #141 on: November 12, 2011, 09:57:56 AM »
Back in the Metal Shop on 11/11/11.
Taking all that funky numeric synchronicity and
channeling it into metal working...
So at 11:11 AM on 11/11/11 I was shredding metal...

\m/___(O.o)___\m/

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #141 on: November 12, 2011, 09:57:56 AM »
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Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #142 on: May 07, 2012, 01:24:20 AM »
Finally got some time to work on the UABMM this weekend.  Full elucidation here...

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/05/uabmm2-test-fit.html

Been a little too busy with springtime, and the new business and all...

http://black-dog-technologies.blogspot.com/

Check out teh pix...


Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #143 on: May 08, 2012, 06:21:16 PM »
Now I have the bearings installed.  Full elucidation here.

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/05/uabmm2-bearings.html

I needed to bore out the center holes of the bearing mounting brackets.  They were 0.500 inches, and the bearings are 1.125 inches outside diameter.  So I used a large Step-Drill, or Uni-Bit to do this.  These are off the shelf bearings from an Ace Hardware store, only $2 each.  So far I am pleased with them, even though they have more play than I would like.  I can always upgrade to better bearings later.

So now its spinning.  Next I need to assemble the Rotor Assembly...


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #143 on: May 08, 2012, 06:21:16 PM »
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Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #144 on: May 09, 2012, 01:33:54 AM »
I worked on the Rotor Assembly today...

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/05/uabmm2-shaft-assembly.html

Video of the Rotating Assembly...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svhaNLP8Zks

Nutshelled,
I made a shaft key,
made U blocks to hold the shaft,
machined a flat on the shaft,
press fit the split taper bushing,
drilled mounting holes in the Rotor,
assembled the rotor assembly,
then reassembled everything...

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #145 on: May 16, 2012, 04:01:01 PM »
Now I have the Rotor re-assembled.  The tremendous forces of the magnets are causing the split taper bushing to slide around on the shaft a little.  I was able to find a sticky spot on the shaft where the Rotor would stay put.  I think I need to make a new shaft key that is just a little bit bigger.

I needed a couple shaft collars to secure the ends of the shafts at the bearings.  I went to the local hardware store, but they didn't have any.  So, rather than order them on-line, and pay shipping charges, I decided to make my own.  I took a couple half inch nuts and drilled out the threads to 0.500 inches.  Then drilled a 0.159 inch hole through one of the nuts facets.  I ran a 10-32 tap through the 0.159 inch hole, and inserted a 10-32 set screw.  So I made a couple half inch shaft collars for about 25 cents each, they are almost $2 at MSC, plus shipping.

The new mount holds the Rotor square, and solid.  There is none of the deflection that I had with the single sided mount.  Also I added the gear on the end of the shaft to help me turn the shaft.  With the magnets installed it takes considerable torque to turn the shaft.  Once you get the Rotor over the sticking point it will turn relatively easily.  I can tell there are repulsion and attraction points, and there are still the "sticky" point between the magnet fields.

Now its finally assembled, and I can start playing with it.  The next task is to figure out how to mitigate the eddy currents between the magnets.  I am thinking that I can use some small pieces of Iron to short out the eddy currents, and eliminate the sticky spots.

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/05/uabmm2-new-mount-test.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wza5glN2cjA

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #145 on: May 16, 2012, 04:01:01 PM »
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Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #146 on: June 08, 2012, 11:13:41 AM »
Been thinking about the cross currents between the magnets.  These cross currents cause the rotor to stick in various places where the face currents line up with and are attracted to the cross currents.  If you give the rotor a good spin it can overcome these cross currents until it looses inertia.

So, I've been looking into trying to mitigate these cross currents, and I figured that I can do this by shunting the cross currents by adding iron inserts between the magnets.  These modifications are meant to maximize the face currents and minimize the cross currents.

I needed to take the UABMM2 apart again to modify the Cants, and add the clearances for the magnetic shunts.  Also while I have the UABMM2 taken apart I made a new flat on the shaft to mount the split taper bushing tighter, and keep the rotor from slipping around.  This also gets the rotor to the position where I want it, at the bottom of the assembly, making space for the alternator part above.  More information here...

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/06/uabmm2-magnetic-shunts.html

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #147 on: June 20, 2012, 02:08:54 AM »
I've had to use a couple different thicknesses of sheet Iron to make the magnetic shunts.
Trying to be creative with limited resources.  I've managed to shunt about a third of
the Stator so far.  Going much easier with the thinner (20 mil) sheet Iron, rather than
the thicker (30 mil) sheet Iron.  My hole spacing is not as accurate as I wanted it to
be, and needed some flexibility in the width of the Shunts.  Now that I have got over
this hump the rest of the Shunts should be no problem...

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/06/uabmm2-magnetic-shunts-2.html

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #148 on: June 20, 2012, 10:31:54 PM »
Now I have all the magnetic shunts installed in the Stator.  The thinner gauge sheet Iron made the rest of the process much easier because I didn't need to file down the Cants.  I took a lot of the thicker (30 mil) shunts out and replaced them with the thinner (20 mil) shunts.  After reassembling the magnet motor I noticed that the Rotor took less effort to start, but now it is making noise because the shunts are moving, and making a ticking sound.
 
 Next I need to install shunts in the Rotor.  I am thinking that I can use epoxy, and Iron filings and make a shunt that I can inject into the gaps.  Then after the epoxy cures shouldn't move, and make sound.  I noticed that when I was adding the shunts that they would be drawn into the gap between the magnets, and they like to be in there, meaning they are not trying to get away.  This means the Iron Filing Epoxy Shunt Injection Process might work smoothly, without making a magnetic glue mess.  I guess we'll see...

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/06/uabmm2-magnetic-shunts-3.html

Offline z.monkey

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Re: The Bucking Magnet Motor
« Reply #149 on: July 13, 2012, 02:22:16 PM »
Now I have all the shunts inserted between the magnets.  The rotor requires less torque to get it started, and the rotor turns for a longer time when spun, so I think we're making progress.  Eliminating cross currents between adjacent magnets is the key to getting this thing to run.  This set of shunts is 16 mil sheet metal.  What we need is something that conforms to the spaces between the magnets better.  So, the next thing I am going to try is the iron powder mixed with epoxy, and injected into the spaces where I need to control the cross currents between the magnets.  We are starting to see the potential of the UABMM2 now.

http://scientilosopher.blogspot.com/2012/07/uabmm2-shunted.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4xB5eUFmrk

 

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