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Author Topic: How to build a gravity wheel.  (Read 39264 times)

Offline JEJEHO

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2010, 02:30:10 PM »
Hi Alan,

Nice work.

Nixon

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2010, 02:30:10 PM »

Offline Alexioco

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #16 on: June 17, 2010, 07:38:15 PM »
Alan

I could do with some advice...

How can I make an axle for a wooden wheel so it rotates smoothly like with bearings and also strong so i can attach weights to one side of the wheel without it tilting?

Alex

Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2010, 11:52:47 PM »
Greetings Alex

 Wood to wood tends to be a lot of friction so what you want to do is bushing effect like in wagon wheels. Sleeves of copper or brass was use in chariots up to wagons yes iron/steel was use in the later periods.
 First to use it for a wheel. You would want to turn or carve your wood down to be as smooth and true as possible.
 Second you need to know what type of stand you are trying to put it on.  Between columns braced high and low. Similar to the stand earlier in the string supporting high and low you would want to taper The end of the wooden axle and sleeve it in brass or copper and then you want like sleeve to fit them in, similar to but not at the angle of the wagon style wheel. Even though this picture come from the cannon carriage I and a friend Mike built for Rev-War reenactment. It is a good example of the taper but you would want yours strait to keep the wheel strait. Not off angle like needed for the carriage.
 Note in the second picture you will see the bushing on the axle part only do not have to go all around but can be plates screwed into the axle to keep steady but this is for the greasing and to be able to hold the extra grease. Also the axle on a wagon or carriage does not turn. Only the wheels. So the plate bushing only had to be on the weighted side unlike the picture the shows it only on the top side it is best to have it on both side. The picture was found to be only on the top side which by itself was wrong. We believed the artist meant to put it on both side like most did.

Third. Lets look as an easy way and just purchase sleeves bushings to go over the ends and let them sit in a u shaped bushing for ease of oiling. Make sure you have larger washers on each end and pend to keep to keep it from sliding out of the u bushing.  ;)

Also make you axle larger out of wood but taper for the bushing also to keep from tilting you may want to go to a duel side mount between two wheel disk or a framework.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2010, 12:15:21 AM by AB Hammer »

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #17 on: June 17, 2010, 11:52:47 PM »
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Offline Alexioco

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2010, 01:07:07 AM »
Wow Alan

I am completely lost now lol I need to use a metal axle yes to avoid friction but i want to use ball bearings around the axle to help make it smooth like a bicycle wheel is smooth and sturdy.

Alex

Offline grayone

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2010, 01:16:10 AM »
Alex; My Step-Dad is cutting leather for some sports armor. I will let him know you posted.

Michael

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2010, 01:16:10 AM »
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Offline MrMag

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #20 on: June 18, 2010, 01:40:15 AM »
Wow Alan

I am completely lost now lol I need to use a metal axle yes to avoid friction but i want to use ball bearings around the axle to help make it smooth like a bicycle wheel is smooth and sturdy.

Alex

Yes, I thought it looked a little complicated too. What size (thickness/diameter) of wheel are you thinking about?

Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2010, 03:35:53 AM »
Greetings Alex

 Yes I am sometime bad about to much information. LOL

For smaller wheels up to 3 ft as long as you are not trying to put 60lbs + on it you can use 1/2 inch all thread but if heavy you need to go up to 3/4 inch or 1 inch. I use flange bearings in steel tubing or wood but don't tighten them to tight for if they get any twist in the mounting. They may bind and not role as good. A little WD 40 will loosen up the grease. On the disk I use wide thick washer lock washers and of course nuts, but  I use lock nuts on the ends to regulate the tightness of the on the flange bearings. Now for split axles I use carriage bolts and 1/4 inch all thread in 6 to 8 placings around with spacers or nuts and lock washers to stabilize the edge of the wheel and keep them aliened to each side. If you are wanting a single side single disk you can do the same with a carriage bolt with a long thread about 6 to 8 inches long and then you will need 2 mounts separated apart by 4 to 5 inches for you flange bearing, but you will have to have a base that exceeds by front of the single face wheel to balance the stand from to much weight applied to the wheel. For those who are not sure what a flange bearing is. It is a bearing with a flange or some could fall it a rim to stop the bearing from going through the hole for the smaller size of the bearing. You can get these from most hardware stores. I use TSC. But when you get past the test wheel stage. You will start looking at larger bar stock and what is called pillow block bearing setups on steel frames. If you build smaller you will build less expensive and more often, with better chances. 

Personal note to Alex; If you look at that video of the one wheel you will see a single side of a split axle set up to do the design I showed you.

I hope this helps

Alan

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #21 on: June 18, 2010, 03:35:53 AM »
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Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #22 on: June 18, 2010, 04:18:50 AM »
Here is another view of my wooden stand

From left to wright. 1/2 inch all thread  with a lock nut next to the flange bearing through to the wheel blanks which have a nut then lock washer to a larger thick washer and on the other side then out through another flange bearing and another lock nut. The lock nuts are to keep from to much pressure on the flange bearings so they will spin freely with minimum friction. What is on top of the stand is similar to Bessler's pendulums but they are of all steel. Note in the front view picture that there are no nuts or washers on the inside of the bearing for they are not needed.

Alan

Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #23 on: June 18, 2010, 02:30:29 PM »
@ All

 When building a wheel you will want to lay out your parts before ever building to double check. I like to call it the "Check check double check method". Another is "measure twice drill once method".

Here is an early stage photo of a wheel I was working on and then the finished design.

Alan

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #23 on: June 18, 2010, 02:30:29 PM »
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Offline Low-Q

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2010, 11:09:41 PM »
Regarding friction, there will always be friction. I can see the reason for having as less friction as possible, but I do not see the point in special treatment of bearings to make them even smoother with less friction. If a motor, driven by electric energy, or some how driven by "unknown" forces, the friction is not an issue anymore. Because there is plenty of over unity, the need of a super low friction bearing is just not necessary because it does not steal that much of energy anyway. I feel that most people in this forum is talking about 100,00000001% over unity, because the talk about these bearings are SO important to have going as smooth and frictionless as possible.

I want plenty of over unity in small devices. An over unity in a nano scale is not interesting, because the possible power plant will be so enormous you could harness 1W of a plant that is bigger than the Moon...

Think big, but small ;)

Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #25 on: June 20, 2010, 12:04:20 AM »
Vidar

 The reason for removal of the grease in the bearings is for the test wheels. This way if you finds continuous action you will be able to build up from there. In a small test wheel this will allow a more positive understanding of what you are doing, and not a misunderstanding thinking you may not have a non runner due to stiff bearings. When you build the larger wheels this is not as much a problem.  ;)

Alan

PS I like wheels that can overcome allot of friction and have plenty of energy over that as well.  ;D

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #25 on: June 20, 2010, 12:04:20 AM »
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Offline Cloxxki

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #26 on: June 20, 2010, 12:10:18 AM »
I agree. So often I read about gravity wheels that they "almost" ran by themselves. Well, a beam stuck to an axle comes even closer.

All my life, since a little boy really, I've been bugged by friction, as it should be somehow used to work FOR us, not against us. Friction is so powerful, and easy to obtain. It is NOT nothing, it just always has the opposite agenda to our devices, making them work less efficiently.

Enter: the DDWFTTW technology, proven beyond doubt now by the Blackbird team of California. Wheels on a vehicle, pushed along by the tail wind, are geared to also turn a propellor, in airplane mode. Yes, the prop takes energy from the wheels. Yet, adds more thrust. Cart accelerates past wind speed, and already they attained 2.86x wind speed, travelling dead down wind. This is not over unity, it's tapping into the power of the wind, and having a low-loss vehicle to exploit it.
If a similar trick could be pulled on gravity rather than the wind, there is hope.
A cart rolling down a hill, thereby powering a prop on the back geared that little bit higher, maybe...?

Our energy dependency better not "depend" on gravity wheels, just yet. :-)

Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #27 on: June 20, 2010, 03:53:44 AM »
Cloxxki

  Good point Sticking, and binding parts cause allot of problems and scissor jacks are one of the worst for this.  Sticking, and binding parts are cause in most cases by twisting parts causing the sticky friction effect. The answer to this is to build with arms and leavers in pairs. This equals out allowing the action to take place. When boring holes in would you might find it good to use brass and copper bushings to reduce friction and only make it as close to the exact size without being tight so you will have an oil-able bushing bearing effect. When boring steel you may want to use some fine emery cloths in the hole to smooth it off as well. Don't round the inner edge of the hole but just enough to take of the sharp edge.

 If you have a hole to loose on the fulcrum of the device used. You may cause vibration or what some call a chatter effect. This is bad, anytime this happens.

Alan

Offline Pirate88179

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #28 on: June 20, 2010, 04:01:14 AM »
Or just use ceramic.  Partially stabilized zirconium oxide to be specific.  Ceramic on ceramic has the lowest coefficient of friction measured to date.  ***EDIT***  Also, no need to lubricate as this actually increases the friction.

Bill
« Last Edit: June 20, 2010, 05:52:22 AM by Pirate88179 »

Offline AB Hammer

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Re: How to build a gravity wheel.
« Reply #29 on: June 20, 2010, 07:17:35 PM »
Or just use ceramic.  Partially stabilized zirconium oxide to be specific.  Ceramic on ceramic has the lowest coefficient of friction measured to date.  ***EDIT***  Also, no need to lubricate as this actually increases the friction.

Bill

Greetings Bill

 That is a very good suggestion. Thanks! I have a couple of them in my surplus but when I did some pricing some of them where high cost. Do you know where we could find them at a reasonable cost?

 I guess that the removing of the grease is the cheep way. I get most of my bearings for less than 3 dollars each. and if I find some rollerskates at a yard sell. I can get several for a lot less. But when it comes to build the next wheel after the test wheel. It will be well worth the cost of the ceramic bearings.

Thanks again Bill

Alan

edited rollerskating. Well I kind of miss rollerskating  :'(
« Last Edit: June 21, 2010, 01:54:37 AM by AB Hammer »

 

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