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Author Topic: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter  (Read 229411 times)

Offline conradelektro

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #45 on: May 09, 2010, 12:07:27 AM »
Hi Bill (Pirate88179) !

Thank you for the hint, I just tried it. A big Neodym Magnet stopped the oscillation cold. Smaller ones lifted the frequency from about 6 KHZ to about 8 KHz.

So there is some effect, I have to experiment further. It will depend very much on the right magnetic strength. I can place something between the toroid and the strong magnet to adjust its influence (a piece of wood or plastic keeping the magnet at a certain distance).

Most people older than 50 will not hear anything beyond 10 KHz, but children and pets do up to 30 KHz. Dogs hear up to 40 KHz.

Greetings, Conrad

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #45 on: May 09, 2010, 12:07:27 AM »

Offline gyulasun

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #46 on: May 09, 2010, 12:44:51 AM »
Hi Conrad,

You surely know the big (or not so big) magnet brings the core towards saturation, this means lowering the original permeability hence increasing frequency.  This can go till the conditions for maintaing oscillations in your oscillator circuit remain valid (till feedback remains sufficient etc).

Gyula

Offline Pirate88179

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #47 on: May 09, 2010, 12:52:59 AM »
I agree.  I use a very powerful neo on mine but, I am using a high permeability ferrite toroid that is 3 3/8" in diameter.  I am sure my strong magnet would overwhelm one of my smaller toroids.

I have also added several small neos to the transformer on my Fuji JT circuits and my lights get noticeably brighter.

Bill

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #47 on: May 09, 2010, 12:52:59 AM »
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Offline slayer007

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #48 on: May 24, 2010, 08:41:36 PM »
Here is just a short video showing the Exiter running off a 12v battery.
It works off as high as 18v but much past 12v it's still easy to fry the transistors.

In the video I start it at the lowest setting then turn it up to 3/4 power.

Here is the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uU_HeCr8BTM

Offline stprue

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #49 on: May 24, 2010, 11:11:57 PM »
Nice Job Slayer, that tower is putting out all kinds of high frequency waves. 

You're getting lots of power at good distance....it is still amazing to me that this exciter circuit can turn anything into a battery so to speak.

How did your self running tests come out?

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #49 on: May 24, 2010, 11:11:57 PM »
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Offline slayer007

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #50 on: May 24, 2010, 11:20:34 PM »
Nice Job Slayer, that tower is A out all kinds of high frequency waves. 

You're getting lots of power at good distance....it is still amazing to me that this exciter circuit can turn anything into a battery so to speak.

How did your self running tests come out?

Thanks Stprue

Not so good, It was kinda hit and miss.
Some times it would self run and some times I just couldn't get it to self run.

When it was self running I couldn't really get any work out of it anyway.

I haven't totally given up on it yet just needed a little brake from it.

Offline stprue

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #51 on: May 25, 2010, 03:48:59 PM »
Don't worry Slayer, I feel the same lately, no inspiration, no building, just watching and waiting to get the drive back.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #51 on: May 25, 2010, 03:48:59 PM »
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Offline conradelektro

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #52 on: May 26, 2010, 03:28:43 PM »
@ jadaro2600

Here my findings so far concerning sine waves on a secondary L3 in a Joule Thief type circuit:

- use an air core with a diameter between 100 and 300 mm (I know this is big, but you then do not need that many turns for L3, may be 150 to 400 turns); 0.2 or 0.3 mm diameter enamelled wire; thinner wire is very difficult to handle and thicker wire needs a lot of space and more turns

- start with winding the secondary L3 on the cardboard or plastic tube; I put a strip of double sided sticky tape on the tube to hold the windings while I wind (with a primitive hand winding station I built)

- on one end of the secondary L3 you wind L1 + L2 over L3; either bifilar or center tapped (I put a piece of paper on L3 to protect it when winding L1 + L2 over it)

- use very few turns for L1 + L3 (may be 6 to 9)

- use an adjustable base resitore (0 to 10 K with a safety 100 Ohm) and set it to 2 to 4 K Ohm, the sine wave will have several hundred Kilo Hertz (I have seen 700 KHz, easily 400 KHz)

- the voltage of the sine wave on L3 will be rather low (may be 60 to 120 Volt); when you decrease the base resistor, the voltage over L3 will go up, the frequency will go down rapidly and the sine wave becomes more like spikes ringing down

- when you see sine waves on L3 the consumed power will be rather low (may be 40 to 100 mA) because the base resistor will be high (2 to 4 KOhm)

- what I said is for a 1 to 2 Volt power supply, if you use higher supply voltages (e.g. 6 Volt to 12 Volt) frequency will go down, voltage on L3 goes up fast, the sine wave becomes spikes and transistor and base resistor overheat within seconds


An experimenter calling himself slayer007 has an interesting circuit which I will explore soon (when I get bored with my air cores on the basic Joule Thief circuit):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uU_HeCr8BTM (Slayer explains his circuit at the beginning of the video, therefore it is a video as I like them, because I can understand what Slayer is doing in the video)

But I see that you also follow the thread http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=8977.45 GBluer (Slayer) Exiter.

What I would like is a modification of the latest Slayer circuit to avoid radiation. I want 1500 Volt to go by two wires into a CFL or neon with high frequency (may be 200 to 500 KHz, or even Mega Hertz). The wireless transmission of power is interesting but not yet for the average home.

From what I have seen, the basic Joule Thief circuit is very good for a 1 Volt power supply (a single or two AAA or AA batteries in series) but becomes critical (concerning overheating of the components) when using a power supply with higher voltage (4 Volt and higher, definitely with 12 Volt). Slayer has found I nice way with his adjustable capacitor to make a 12 to 18 Volt power supply possible. May be one can adapt this idea to the basic Joule Thief circuit.

A 12 Volt Battery charged by a solar panel with a high frequency Joule Thief type circuit lighting a CFL brightly could be useful. Some sort of emergency lamp or free energy lamp. The 12 Volt battery and the air core coil would be rather big, but for a stationary lamp that would not matter much.

I know, one can turn 12 Volt into 110 or 220 Volt with a commercially available converter, but that converter wastes power and is no fun (and it also "screeches" or "sings").

Greetings, Conrad

Offline conradelektro

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #53 on: May 26, 2010, 03:45:55 PM »
Sorry, my latest post should have gone into the Joule Thief thread, but may be it also fits in this thread.

@ Slayer007

I hope you keep working on your circuit because it seems to be a promissing way forward from the basic Joule Thief circuit. The big advantage is its high frequency (to avoid screeching), but for practical applications I fear a bit its "radiation" (although this radiation of energy is of course a very interesting thing).

I understand that you are interested in the "over unity aspects", but I also see potential for a very effective way of using "electricity" to light up gas discharge lamps (FLs, CFLs and Neons). Lots of light with little input is already something (even if it is not over unity).

Greetings, Conrad

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #53 on: May 26, 2010, 03:45:55 PM »
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Offline Tito L. Oracion

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #54 on: May 28, 2010, 11:57:53 AM »
This is good hmmmmmm  ;D

Offline woopy

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #55 on: June 03, 2010, 11:25:42 PM »
hi all

back to work

here some more testing

1-  as Slayer 007 said some time ago, i  tried to wound the L2 coil with a  single copper wire with plastic insulation of 0.8 mm in pancake organisaation.

2-  i could get the plasma arc at the end of the free L1 coil easily with about 7.5 volts.

3 so i decided to try the Avramenko electrolisis

4 and it works nicely


so my question 

how is it possible to get electrolisis from thi set up ?

second    the N2222 get very hot    how can we do to scale up this arrangement to test more ppowerfull electrolisis?

all the best to you

Laurent

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #55 on: June 03, 2010, 11:25:42 PM »
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Offline conradelektro

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #56 on: June 04, 2010, 01:14:17 AM »
@ Laurent (woopy)

I think that one should use the transistor (Darlington Pair) TIP142 which has a high DC current gain (hFE from 500 to 1000). I ordered some because I want to try it for several Joule Thief Variants. The advantage should be a low base current in spite of a strong current through collector - emitter, which keeps the temperature of the transistor down (although one might need a heat sink any way when driving the circuit with higher voltages like you do).

In your circuit (with the transistor 2N2222) I would use a 20 pF capacitor instead of the 200 pF. This should reduce the current over collector - emitter of the 2N2222 and such lower its temperature. But it might stop the electrolysis (because the output of the tower coil will also be reduced). Slayer showed this "power reduction or increase" in his latest video with a 12 Volt power supply by trimming the capacitor.


@ Slayer

I know you recommend the 2N2222 in combination with the MPSA06. Did you ever try a Darlington Pair (a transistor which is internally a Darlington Pair like the TIP142 or the BD681) ?

What happens (your latest circuit, trim capacitor, 1 M resistor) if I would connect a CFL or FL over the tower coil? (On pole of the lamp is connected by wire to the top end of the tower coil and the second pole of the lamp is connected by wire to the beginning of the tower coil which is also the base of the transistors.)

Would this brighten the lamp (in comparison to holding it near the coil without any wire connection as you often do in your videos)?

Would this reduce the radiation?

Would this stop the circuit swinging?

In your videos you sometimes touch the wire on the top end of the tower coil with a lamp or the LEDs, but you never make a connection to the beginning of the tower coil?

Greetings, Conrad

Offline woopy

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #57 on: June 05, 2010, 10:42:34 AM »

Hi Conrad

Thanks for response and proposal

I tried a BD 677 darlington, it works but in a specific voltage. And it get also hot. Will do more test this weekend

Good luck

Laurent




Offline slayer007

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #58 on: June 05, 2010, 03:07:23 PM »
@ Woopy

Thanks for posting your results.
You may want to try running your setup with just the MPSA06 transistors.With 12v or more the 2N2222 are still easy to burn out.
Also a Variable capacitor will help with the current intake and tuning along with tuning the L2 coil to the right spot.

@  Conrad

I have tried quite a few transistors including a darlington Pair.So far the best transistor for this circuit is the MPSA06 with the 2N2222 the second best.

I only left the 2N2222 transistor in the circuit diagram because if your using a smaller coil it is hard to get this to start without the 2N2222 transistor.
But people using bigger coils with 12v or more should just use one or two MPSA06 transistors in this circuit.

Offline slayer007

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Re: GBluer(Slayer) Exiter
« Reply #59 on: July 03, 2010, 05:00:09 PM »
This video is to show how you can use two diodes and one LED for a indicator light for your exiter.
It helps with tunning and hepls protect the A.

Dr Stiffler uses it in his SEC 18 series and it also works very good with this circuit.


In the video the 1M resistor is disconnected.It is no longer needed if using over 1v.
And I also have one coil connected to the negative battery post.

Here is the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naN-cLCgDyY

 

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