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Author Topic: The Ossie motor  (Read 331459 times)

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #555 on: June 06, 2010, 01:52:00 PM »
Been working on a new rig. Getting some weird results. Im using a vertically positioned hdd rotor, mags & platter facing a bifilar coil i wound. It seems very efficient will post some odd scope shots soon.

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #556 on: June 06, 2010, 03:36:30 PM »

gyulasun

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #557 on: June 06, 2010, 06:17:16 PM »
Hi Jim,

If you use those original flat magnets found in HDDs then they have NS not only through their thickness but also lengthwise (and their original backplate conducts flux to screen their backside and make their front face side stronger). See this link it explains better with pictures:
http://www.reuk.co.uk/Hard-Disk-Drive-Magnets-For-Wind-Turbines.htm

So all I wish to notice is originally they have two poles to their front side, this is what you may find strange when watching the induced voltages on scope.

I found your video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMW-Nr2Qb_Y

rgds,  Gyula

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #558 on: June 07, 2010, 09:05:19 AM »
Thanks Gyula I posted from my ipad so the url was a bit odd.
Here is the scope shot. The coil / switches are very noisy. The squeaking you hear in the vid is not coming from the rotor.

guruji

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #559 on: June 14, 2010, 01:12:01 PM »
Hi guys is there a way to modify bedini ssg circuit or any other motor with same pulse to charge it's own battery?
Thanks


Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #561 on: July 05, 2010, 12:04:10 PM »
bit excited. Ive built several diff rigs since last posting with nothing new to report... until now.
I'll post pix & vid soon but here is what I am seeing.
I can dimly light a 6.3v 0.25A bulb with no extra current draw. The motor slows but the current remains steady. The 6vsla is dropping about .02/hour. The current rig is a bit of a Frankenstein from me mucking about with various coil configs. I believe I'll now be able to get similar results from simpler  configs.

My current rotor is using 2 x 32mm disc neos which I have glued to a fan housing then bolted to a hdd rotor. I have kept the drive coil from the hdd rotor and have wired the 2 furthermost pins to a bulb. This is my generator. I haven't yet worked out power output. Im hoping that Im on to something.

Once again reed tuning has been the key to getting optimum speed to power consumtion. Ive tried collapsing the coil over a bridge & charged a cap up. I want to work on a self runner. Any ideas how I get this power back into the battery are greatly appreciated. :)


gyulasun

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #562 on: July 05, 2010, 11:49:30 PM »
Hi Jimboot,

The simplest solution maybe using a reed switch which connects your charged up capacitor to the battery (say the negative cap pole is directly connected to the 6V run battery negative pole and the reed switch connects the positive cap pole to the pos battery pole in the moments when the battery is not loaded by the motor current).  Bedini uses more elaborate means to handle higher charging currents, as it turns out from his patents. 
You would arrange your gen coils to produce at least 9-10V DC voltage in the capacitor via the full wave bridge, this should be fed into the 6V run battery via the switch, then the capacitor would be discharged to as low as the 6V battery level and the process repeats.

I hope Augen has continued his fight with coil windings too  :)  :D  :)

regards,  Gyula

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #563 on: July 06, 2010, 01:48:18 AM »
Ok here are the pix so far. I only have one bifilar badly wound coil and another normal air coil but I will think it will perform even better once I get another 2 bifilar in series. I'm also going to setup the rotor with a 3rd mag. Not for any reason except that it seems more natural :)

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #564 on: July 06, 2010, 02:04:45 AM »
Hi Jimboot,

The simplest solution maybe using a reed switch which connects your charged up capacitor to the battery (say the negative cap pole is directly connected to the 6V run battery negative pole and the reed switch connects the positive cap pole to the pos battery pole in the moments when the battery is not loaded by the motor current).  Bedini uses more elaborate means to handle higher charging currents, as it turns out from his patents. 
You would arrange your gen coils to produce at least 9-10V DC voltage in the capacitor via the full wave bridge, this should be fed into the 6V run battery via the switch, then the capacitor would be discharged to as low as the 6V battery level and the process repeats.

I hope Augen has continued his fight with coil windings too  :)  :D  :)

regards,  Gyula
Thanks Gyula. Yep your discussion with him here was one of my main reasons for trying diff coil configs. I've got a cap up to 23volts so far & unlike the last time I know that this charge has enough current to light a bulb.

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #565 on: July 09, 2010, 02:49:50 PM »
Hi all. Id appreciate some feedback on this. I'll measure current tmrw but I'd love your feedback. Ossie? Are you watching? Id still like to buy you a beer! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgoonXp1WAA

gyulasun

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #566 on: July 09, 2010, 02:56:04 PM »
Hi all. Id appreciate some feedback on this. I'll measure current tmrw but I'd love your feedback. Ossie? Are you watching? Id still like to buy you a beer! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgoonXp1WAA

Hi,  if I click on your link, it says it is a private video and I cannot see it... Possibly a youtube "feature" to play our nerves.
Gyula

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #567 on: July 09, 2010, 03:45:11 PM »
I've just blogged about this & my journey & what you lot have taught me. Thank you. http://jimboot.com/the-ossie-motor

Jimboot

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #568 on: July 09, 2010, 03:47:43 PM »
@gyula sorrry mate. Default setting in iMovie upload. Should be right now.

gyulasun

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Re: The Ossie motor
« Reply #569 on: July 09, 2010, 10:44:39 PM »
Hi Jimboot,

Some explanation is needed wrt the video...   I wonder what the black multimeter measures on the left side (Digitech type), it shows increasing values and why negative?

I assume the yellow multimeter shows your input battery voltage, right? (6.3V DC)

Your analog ampermeter shows DC input current, changes between 100mA to 130mA, right?

About the coils: you connected the air core coils in series with the handwound coils placed behind them, the handwound coils are bifilar as you wrote. Why did you position the handwound coils behind? hence further away from the rotor magnets.  Did you connect the bifilar coils in series within one handwound coil too?

What is the capacitor value you use after the Schottky diode bridge? I know the gen coils are embedded in the rotor as you showed in IMG_9512.jpg above at post #563 above. Would you measure its DC resistance?  Also would like to know the air coil DC resistances, I assume the handwound coils have only half an Ohm or less.

rgds,  Gyula