@Otto,
Thanks very much.
I will pulse opposing, like inverse parallel with a bridge on it.

@Wattsup,
I wokeup!
http://cgi.ebay.com/LITZ-WIRE-10-44-250-ft-/220437116031?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335313747f
Litz wire is an obvious choice for the center toroid device.
Expense is emphasized as in 'this is the choice of the wire' on the center toroid device.
He could get many seperate xfilars with one wrap. Once again 'VERY WELL HIDDEN'!

But I have one question that I dont remember being addressed before. The center toroid winding looks like it is embedded in a hardened goop. Like he took a ratshack spool, wound iron wire around it, wrapped the litz wire on it and then gooped the device and wiped it down to expose the out portion of the windings.


@all,
Major Bloch wall jacking this weekend!
I will attach a bridge as a load.
I wire as shown.

The magamp config is a very flexible setup.
The current iron core one is bucking. If I need a none bucking coil I whip out the GK4. And it has 3 layers for even more extreme configurations. AyEEEE!

We're getting close.
http://science.nasa.gov/media/medialibrary/2010/04/21/30mar10_prom_304_big.jpg

fixed the connections

@GK

I am really happy you are seeing some results. Yes the battery negative is not always required. You can use either nothing at all or in some cases I am using my very thick battery cable wire non connected and simply put the ground to that. This is sometimes giving brighter LED.

I will have to make a new video to show my new FTPU mock up with two 1650/44 Litz top and bottom rings onto which I have wound on each ring two 175/46 Litz CCs in bucking mode. The wind was one turn at every 1/4" or there abouts. I connected the top and bottom CCs as @gotolucs mode then put them in series and put only one connection to the PG. I managed now to get about 60 volts dc loaded onto a dioded cap off the rings that are in a special wind that is two complicated to describe so I will show it in the video.

So now I have shown that in the FTPU, I can do the 60 volts show with either the toroid or the ring/CCs. Next is too see any advantage in marrying them together but all this is telling me so much already about the TPU.

First thing is this,

When you look at the FTPU toroid, it is not the same as the LTPU toroids. There was a progression in SMs thinking. In his FTPU he only showed voltage because that is all he could show, like that is all we can show with a toroid that has two equal coils. He wound the toroid with equal number of turns and method. This is my main quandary right now to see if it is worth it or not to push the FTPU any further because I think I have done it and shown 60 volts with peanuts at micro-amps. In the OTPU, sorry to say but he cheated on the amperage otherwise he would have used simple bulb and socket to make the point 100% clear. Again his OTPU showed only voltage because his toroid again had equal winds.

It is only when he arrived at the STPU and 6TPU that we can now see some 1 amp or less with around 100 volts or more. This is where the big leap happened in SMs thinking, and I think I know what he did and then why this new changes made him produce a new center toroid when making the LTPU. He learned how to compress more of the energy.

SM says it is a conversion device. He did not say a transformer that would simply have just a primary and secondary. Step up, step down all without any gain because your are just trading volts for amps. He said a conversion device because there are more steps then a simple transformer. What I think is he is using low voltage pulsing to produce high voltage onthe outer rings, then he is using high voltage step down to produce a usable output. But the question is where the hell does this occur in the TPU and this pushes me right back to the toroid in the FTPU. The wires are not the same in the FTPU and LTPU.

We usually make our transformers with 1,2,3 or 4 coils. On toroids, we usually see 1,2,3 or 4 coils. All depending on how we want to step up or step down the volts/amps. But what if you go really overboard. Like as shown below. Both sides of the coil would look exactly the same and since the center had epoxy filler, you would never know how the toroid was really made. otherwise why take the time to make a filler an mounting on a base plate. His main secret was in plain sight and he knew that visually, know one could figure it out unless they made variations, etc.

The image below shows a left coil of 36 turns and on the right side you have 12 coils of 3 turns. I am showing the right winds going outside the toroid for clarity but in reality they will be heading inwards towards the toroid center. Now if you only just pulse the left coil, what type of juice will come out of the paralleled 12 coils of 3 turns each. As the flux turns around the toroid core, what effect would it have as it passes those smaller coils in parallel. That will be left to discover in the next moves because for me there is not really that many more variables to answer. If it works on a toroid, then his STPU and 6TPU will also use this method but in a different manner. @otto may be very right to say you need a core.

So more fun to come.

wattsup

@w,
Way cool.
Your right side windings look just like Bruce's. I know that he used steel windings in the control coils. In your picture on the right side I am trying to figure out how and where the 2 windings that did not wrap around the 3 layers fully are hidden or where they wrap to in SM's pictures.
If SM made those and not using the blade terminal connections fits in with him hiding things.
With that I can see these little guys made just like yours and Bruce's with garden wire cores.
I will wind a 4 inch one in approximation to the GK4, GK3 and Mighty little.
3 layers using 3 horizontal turns of iron garden wire on each layer. 30awg vertical wound in 3 sections overlapping like in your right hand side section.
Same number of turns but differing lengths has got me thinking. Bruce used stranded copper cores with steel control windings. There he was able to get a magnetic element into his coils. Even though the windings are perpendicular he was able to create a pulsing magnetic toroidal field around the stranded copper core. Precession comes to mind.

With the difference of the magnetic field aligned with the core or in the control coils the pulsing magnetic field still expands and collapses across the perpendicular copper. The stranding also gives a slight angle to the perpendicularity so the flux can still be broken across a wire.

The really great news is I left the capacitor charging across the coil all night, again no power! Nada, not even a battery connection! Stuck an LED across it this morning and BAM! The LED popped! I didn't even think about putting a meter on it. I wonder what that the voltage was. I have 50vdc now.
This all points to major Bloch wall manipulation. A major inrush occurs when the circuit potential is released.

Also now I believe the ECD was just a build to show electrostatic energy and not anything one could pull power from. It is a copper core so with no magnetic capabilities the core field would vanish very quickly as in no latency or storage capability.


Attached:
Itty bitty iron cores of iron garden wire of 3 turns.
First layer, 4 inch diameter done with 22awg rat shack.

Looks good Killer

What ya gunna drive it with?


Mags

@wattsup,
I see what you say here. I can add and add and add. Your last pic that shows the shorter and shorter coils is the Dollard, evgray, Tesla multipactor. As in multiple compaction at the Bloch wall section.
Also I can connect the 3 separate  iron cores in a mobius / vortext spiral. The combinations are numerous. I can add iron jumpers to close the iron rings.
The red primary is bollo-ed with that nylon connector. I can shift the primary along the circumference.
I will use this build as a base and add the overlay necessary coils.

It's small and fits on the work bench. That is a primary concern of mine. If the coils are as big as a drain pipe or manhole cover that draws negative attention from the unknowledgable. 'Big is bad' syndrome.

So for you guys reading this, here is the household political engineering: Keep the devices small and go to bed on time to reduce any suspicion. To a woman the 4" coil is very 'jewelry' like. If it gets to be the size of drill then problems occur. It begins to look like machinery or weaponization. Old PC cases also become very good shields to testing and hide the devices. The common cry is 'What are you doing with all those PCs? They don't even work!'. Wuhahahaha!

I have fried a cable box, tripped GFIs and scrambled routers in other parts of the house.

The signature is very damning and outside of the normal spectrum.

Have not the previous men stood up? I don't think so. Only brave clandestine attempts can be made to deliver.

Killer
Are you suggesting that if someone builds this, that THEY are out looking for and able to detect if someone is running such a device?

Mags

I have the second coil made to spec for testing.
The iron core in the right side coil is mobiously connected in a vortex configuration. The core loops in layer 1 then jumps up to layer 2 then jumps up to layer 3 then jumps back down to layer 1. It is configured like a permanent magnet holder.

Yes. I was refering to wife. The 4" set of coils are working models of 18" diameter version. The 18" models were too visible as in big is bad. You get the picture?: Big coils, boxes crashing, wall outlets vibrating...
She saw the big coils and blamed them without knowing. I removed them. Now I know why mad scientists live alone. The political shuffling is killing me. Anyway...

And yes I only have 3 fet driver boards hooked up. Dead! I tell ya! No battery connections and no instrument connections or grounds. I have been disconnecting everything to find the source. Probably just a big antenna. I place my isolated VOM on the bridge output momentarily just to see the 125vdc. If I leave the meter on it settles to 33vdc. So: meter off circuit the coil pops LEDS / meter on circuit the LED momentarily flashes bright and the voltage drops, remove LED the voltage moves back to 33vdc. Put the LED back on the 'Meter on circuit' and the LED momentarily flashes bright and the voltage drops. Like an ambient Joule thief. It is a rats nest of jumper leads.

I will youtube it and show the mess but will clarify the 'no connections' visually. Bolt told me 2-1/2 years ago to get on batteries. I have been off the grid in my experiemtns ever since. I even bought an isolated OWON portable scope/vom.

Why me, Lord? I just want a TPU! It is just a small request but I have to go to both ends of the universe and learn everything in the middle? Agh!

This is not a trick or fanfare play. I don't have time for games. This is just a byproduct of something else I was pursuing. As Alexander Graham Bell exclaimed "x*-34fgr!" when he got burnt by acid as he was trying to invent the telephone. Go figure. When the LED popped I exclaimed 'Ah, damn!' Then I researched the problem out to find it was something needed all along. Guess I'll go down in the history books as a famous inventor too.

Might be but I took it to be GK's wife saver routine.       If these are really doing damage around the house though it would sound like possibly scalar energy getting loose.  Hopefully not though as I think that's a bit hard to shield. 
  GK,  in a recent post you said you were getting 125 volts out of a coil just sitting?  No pulse circuit hooked up?  While I saw SM's TPU stuff many years ago I just found a renewed interest here recently.  With all the big boxes of cable and wire I've got sitting around I think a TPU is a project waiting to happen here...