Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

.

@Paul,

I know time is running out very fast. You are correct in stating that this is indeed the Imhotep  48 volts modified fan and the pictures are the SAME of the other thread from Fusionchip(http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6519.msg149358#msg149358). In fact the whole fan is exactly the same as the other thread which I dont want to duplicate the explanations here more than Imhotep have done.

So for all that want to participate take a look at how Imhotep have modified the fan in this youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDS9qk-Nw4M. Also simple google search should provide lots of information about this fan.

I am using a 48 volts fan which was very cheap. I found it at this address http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/220100/Fans/D.C.-Fans/1.html. Check also the thread from Fusionchip at http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6519.msg152301#msg152301.


The circuit is a regular SSG Bedini system, except that there is no wheel. The fan is the wheel. A few new parts - an extra battery and one more diode N5408. There will be no magnets hanging on the fan neither it will be necessary to have tricky parts from legacy systems or defunct components. IT IS A SIMPLE SSG with the 48 volts fan.

I am on the works of the explanations of the step by step in how to make this happen so just hold you breaths that I will very soon post more pictures, videos and explanations of how to do it and why i think it is working.

Fausto.

This is my work in progress log. Those numbers reflect the state of the charge of all 3 batteries. They are broken down on the graph as:
- total back-end voltage (B3)
- total front-end voltage (B1 + B2)
- total voltage (B1 + B2 + B3)
- individual front-end B1 and B2 voltages

One can clearly see around point 55 that was a great drop in total voltage and that was when I let it run without my interference (without forcing a "unbalancing") until the next morning, about 6 hours of run time, and it shows clearly that letting the system run towards a "balanced" mode will eventually simply deplete all the energy that the front-end can provide and the "extra" energy that the system generates. I call this the "balanced underunity mode" or "self-underunity mode".

One can also clearly see that when I force the "unbalacing" on the system the total voltage and individual voltages tend to increase.

The numbers on the left are reduced by 36, 24 and 12 points so that one can see the fluctuation in a more granular fashion. (Note the notes on the graph itself).

I am also noticing now that it is becoming increasingly more difficult to force the system into an "unbalaced" mode because the differential in voltage of the back-end versus the front-end is getting higher, but I am still able to run it and get some increase in total voltage on the system. I will soon have to switch the batteries B3 with B1 and restart the whole process.

I will keep the graph growing and show more results and videos soon.

Fausto.

I forgot to mention this before, but one very important thing to observe is that one will need at least 4 (preferable 5) digits after the dot precision meters.

I was only able to notice this behavior of the battery having this "unbalanced" and "balanced" state watching those 7 digits voltages fluctuating back and forth. Very painfull process but since I was very sick and I had nothing else to do.....

Anyway, I have been playing with the same set of batteries of graphs before without recharging them and in the process of trying many different things including coming up with a more automated fashion in putting this system "out of balance" using switches and relays and pulse generators and so on.

My last test using a relay making switch SW2 go to position B at every 5 minutes was a total failure. In the morning my battery voltages were simply horrible. Kind of hurt. But hey, science is made of those moments too.

At least I am learning very fast that just trying to force a rhythm  onto the battery will simply NOT WORK. One must wait and see when the system is getting "balanced" so that the proper time for it is found.

I already have some interesting clues. One is, if you watch the voltage of the front-end raising (system is "out of balance") and it goes higher and higher until there is a point where it will stop going higher (with lots of fluctuations here) and than it start to go down, THERE is the point of forcing the "unbalacing".

Switch SW2 to A-B-A quickly and you will have it again the front-end raising its voltage back to the "unbalanced" state. Off course the voltages in the back-end and in the front-end will be totally different now but it does not matter. The process will in the end show you a tremendous gain.

The only thing I can think that could possibly find this "sweet point" is using micro-controllers where the average of the voltages are taken and a trend can be spotted. (Lot's to learn for me here now).

Fausto.

@Flux4Energizer,

thats is correct and it is also not intuitive to understand how I see this to be working.

Let me explain how I see this (I did all that via monkey science, lots of try outs and errors until I found this interesting thing about the battery).

B1 is the real driver of the whole SSG. B2 and B3 are used in that weird configuration to allow B3 (the charging battery) to receive the radiant energy (that Bedini talks) coming from D1 and at the same time receiving pulses from B1 when the transistor turns on. You can see those pulses going through B2 and B3 because one can put a amp meter between B3 negative pole and the coil and you will see it. So B3 gets freely charge directly from B1, kind of like Tesla Switching Battery project style thing.

B2 was necessary to allow B3 to be inverted because without B2 it would not be possible to connect B3 like that and still run the system.

Now, the radiant spikes coming from D1 will go to B1 most of the time and recharge that battery (Gadgetmall's design) but it does work even better if batteries B3 and B2 allow some flow constantly from them back to B1, which is when I put the system "out of balance". Switching SW1 on and SW2 to B for 1/10 of second, you will see energy going from B1 and B2 toward B3 raising its voltage and lowering B1's voltage big time, that IS the "out of balance" thing. B1 will now raise its voltage and run the system at the same time.

Now, B3 and B2 will push current constantly towards B1 while B1 is pushing current to the coil while the transistor switches. That constant current going in reverse into B1 allows a "gain" when the radiant is going ALSO towards B1. I see it almost like making the stream of water (energy) going always in "charging" mode into B1 helping the radiant stream flow to do its magic in that battery.

But all that is just one of the things I noticed. The second is when you have B3 and B2 connected like that they will dynamically change the whole system because their internal resistance will change as their charges changes which will make things even more interesting.

You can notice B3 charging EVEN WHEN energy is clearly flowing from B3 and B2 toward B1 (just put a meter there between B3 and B2 and you will see it). That is mind mangling form me.

If you run the system long enough you will also notice that B3 will charge faster while B1 goes toward "balance" mode which is when B1 is no longer raising its voltage trying to reach the previous level that it was before using the switchs that I just said previously.

The only problem I see with this whole thing is to make one SEE it and replicate it as I did and really get that sweet "balance - unbalance" spot going on manually. Also it is really necessary to have a higher 5 digits presicion meter so that you can see this minute 1/100 of a volt increase fluctuation going on.

I am currently trying to figure out how to do it automatticaly because I am back to work and I can not seat at my lab staring at the meters for hours and days any longer, but I am glad I was sick and could see this strange behavior that seams to be causing the gain in voltage.

Also I have tested two more things, one is which switching is the best and it seams that SW1 on + SW2 to B point is the best for 1/10 of second whenever I see the voltage on B1 stop raising for longer then 1 minute. Microcontrollers would be wonderfull here!

The other test was  just letting the system running without interference and clearly the voltages on B1 will drop steadily and B3 will stop raising until the system dies.

The third test was pulsating SW1 + SW2 to A position every 5 minutes and it also did not work at all. All voltages dropped tremendously.

SO, I can conclude that switching SW1 + SW2 to B position every "out of balance" spot comes on is really making the difference that you see on the first half of my graphs above.

Currently now I am testing the with system running with an auto switching SW1 + SW2 to B for every 5 or so minutes. So far voltages have not dropped but actually have increased although very very slowly.

Fausto.

I am running my 3 batteries right now in semi-auto mode where I only pulse them every 20 minutes using a relay and an old function generator, very crude but at least it allows me to keep it running for the week while I work and hopefully I soon will have this controller switch doing it but more inteligently.
 
I really thing there is something weird in this behavior here. As a matter of Fact I saw a DVD from Bedini (must be energy from the vacuum 5 or 6 or something like that) where he is showing his SSG and a Window Motor and than he decides to on-the-fly change the window motor circuitry to make it an SSG to show it charging a battery (a battery that he already showed before in the same DVD being charged using a 6 pole SSG) but then that battery did not want to charge at all so he got very upset in front of the camera and did something that did not sound right to me at the time, he loaded the battery straight to a car light and reduced its voltage to almost kill it, something like under 9volts then he connected that battery back to the modified Window Motor and the baby was charging super fast to above 14 volts in front of the camera in no time. He even went to the effort to show that that charge was NOT a ghost charge but in fact a real charge.
 
Well, today I was thinking about that and realized that what I am doing with the swiching is exactly the same thing but in a more regular way and also sending that load to instead of a car lamp to the other back-end battery which is excellent.
 
So my idea now is not so far fectched as someone may think. It is indeed very well known by Bedini.
 
Fausto.
 

@Flux4Energizer,

very good. Try to make the SSG run as slow as possible. I usually put the pot on the base of the transistor to its highest voltage so that it will spin the fan and still consume around no more than 20ma of current.

You are doing great. Using the switch SW1 + SW2 position A is behaving just like I see it too. Very good. That's what I call putting it in "unbalanced mode". Now let it run for awhile.

If you are using the diode D2 (n5408) you should see battery B3 charging and B1 charging and B2 discharging but very slowly. After one hour or two, momentarily (for less than 1/10 of a second) make SW1 + SW2 position B (B only no position A). Do that every hour or so and what the voltages of all. It should increase the total voltage in the whole system, even if some batteries are going down.


After may be a day or so you see B2 very low in voltage and B3 very high, you switch them as the following: B1 goes to B2, B2 goes to B3 and B3 goes to B1. So the lowest in voltage will be the back-end.  You are now ready for a new start and again watch the total voltage in the system.

Fausto.