Hi Bill, could you give me detailed instructions on how to build your stubblefield battery,please 

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3500.msg74742#msg74742

Best instructions come from the inventor himself.

Make yours look as much like the drawings as possible and use what you can to make the materials match.

jeanna

@Jeanna. Sometimes anyway. I have a problem visually with the drawings on the patent that was posted. I think someone should redo it.
...

OK
electricme made a version, and did a good job. It was one of his first posts so you could find it in his profile at the beginning of his posts. (He did add his own supposition that the patent said what kind of cloth, which it did NOT.)

The only real information we have is from the patent and the brochure.
The rest is speculation.

I think it is really important to give a new person the true information and not add all the suppositions from others including ourselves.
The best way to be really confused by this is to add other's suppositions to the original, because they may be wrong or may steer you in a wrong direction.

I printed out a copy of the patent and literally read it every day. I read it and discovered a new meaning or phrase each time I did this.
There is no easy way... but this is not hard.

Tishatang mentioned conditioning which I misunderstood as earth elements and not field conditioning.

I think this is from the brochure, but it may also be suppositions.

The make and break is still vague to me.

Me too. I have my own idea and many people continue to add theirs... again suppositions.

I have a question on why the 30 foot spacing with the rods? I also have a question on frequency length.

He never said to do that 30 foot spacing, but I noticed that.
My own supposition.
I think I am the only person to have made a measurement on a scope using an earth probe either in the simple probes or with stubblefield. People took their scopes outside but I do not believe anyone else came up with a frequency.
I kept requesting them to do that, but I missed it if anyone did.

I have some info on 60hz Em waves that could possibly affect your joule thief experiments.

Yes, please. Also, please remember I am new to a lot of this so please make it simple!

Also need help in analyzing some things I ran across while working at my bench.

ooo now I am really curious.

jeanna

IotaYodi,

Make and Break,

This is the terminology used to describe how the electrical path is switched on or off.

Imagine a set of 2 contacts, when they are "closed" the term is MAKE.
When they are open, they are "broken" or BREAK    ie Make and Break.

This term is used by all the old electrical inventors, its old language speak.

jim
 

link to making a relay into a vibrator (make and break).

http://www.electronixandmore.com/project/1.html

For us, the primary of the example is the secondary of the EB patent.  This will cause induction pulses in the primary (bifilar iron copper).

http://www.electronixandmore.com/project/1.html

Jeanna
I don't recall reading anything about a speaker by NS.  But, it seems logical because of his telephone inventions.

Yes, you are right about getting good pulses out of the earth if you can tune to where they are.  If they are not primary sources, they might be the beat differences between the two freq of the bifilar pair.  My gut feeling is that NS added the make/break after the failure of a demonstration.  The ground had no energy to tap.  By adding a make/break, he could use a small portable battery to charge up the surrounding ground around the EB.  This is like priming the pump.  After which, it works like it should.

Series inductors is exactly what NS did in my opinion.  This did two things:

First, this adds total inductance in the circuit.  This helps you lower the freq of resonance.  There is more energy in the lower freqs. 

And, it lets you fine tune to find the res freq.  Variable caps were not invented until about 1915.  In the 1800's and 90's the only way NS could fine tune, would be to have a series inductor on the surface to peel off extra turns to find the sweet spot.

Hi Bill,
I once asked Ian how to see if he did that. (Do you remember I thought it would have been inside that globe like a van de graff ball?)
He told me to put a piece of very thin paper between the wires, and he said I would probably not be able to see it at the frequencies he thought I was looking at.
I did this.
I never did see a spark, even at night.
I also connected a peizo speaker and thought that I might have heard a scratch or 2.

Now, my and Ian's assumptions about the frequency could be wrong.
It is when I decided I really needed a scope, since I couldn't see any spark.

Since this year with the scope showed so many frequencies and many at lower levels, I am questioning all the above.

@Tishatang.
I see.
An external device would have fit into everything NS was doing too.
He was working out signaling from a caller, so it is not out of the question as I once thought it was.

thank you,

jeanna

edit:
But, I still prefer the idea that he used a spark gap as the switching mechanism.

Tishitang,

I'm back from a bunch of travels and now getting caught up in here. Summary of the travels is no surprise; power company wants to sell you lots and lots of electricity and continue charging you lots of money. So after these little corporate games my interests in Stubblefield are even more renewed. While on the road I read various posts here in addition to auxillary information. At any rate, I remain curious as to applying the resonance system to each winding. It appears that ground post material for each winding is flexible in regards to material. So if I just went with a copper pipe for each, this is good? I will most likely start out with smaller pipe diameters of less than an inch and lengths less than 24 inches. It seems prudent to space these pipes so that they are 3ft from each other. (I'm still debating what mechanisms are at play here) Any further suggestions most welcome here.....

The other question I have is in regards to capacitors. I'm not electronics wizard but it looks like using variable capacitors being suggested here. I am under the assumption that these devices operate in frequency ranges and also under the impression that being able to operate from 7hz-2khz is in order. I need to either make or buy this stuff so I can get busy in the ground. I certainly have old radio equipment that can be hacked but would this get me into frequency ranges we are talking about here?

So we tune in each variable capacitor to achieve a good observable result. I am presuming this is at a low frequency and = to natural earth frequency. So once tuned in, how do we stay locked on to what I assume is a naturally variable earth frequency? (again, still trying to get mechanisms at play straight in my mind)

other thoughts.....

I read somewhere in posts that someone suggested that copper could be slightly smaller in guage than iron. I would like to confirm this as being probably an OK thing to do. The reason being chemistry mechanism in regards to incoming earth charge. We end up bypassing the half reactions occurring when we pick up earth charges thus truth to the urban legend that the copper windings being unreacted after extended service times. I still think the iron will corrode heavily which is not necessarily a bad thing because iron oxide better than just bare iron. We just need to make sure that this iron corrosion does not bridge to copper directly. This is where I hope cotton wire insulation I will be using holds up. There are wire size considerations here as well. Cotton insulated copper wire has a total diameter (wire itself + cotton insulation thickness). To create even winding situation, bare iron wire needs to be same as total diameter of insulated cotton wire. So in this scenerio, the actual wire guage of the iron would be larger than that of the copper. I am working with a 16ga iron and 18ga cotton insulated copper scenerio in my current build (total diameters very close to each other)

I am still debating about core insulation material and insulating material between windings. I really want a polypropylene based battery 'seperator' material. Reason = better capillary action of ground based moisture. I have yet to find a source.

, MW383