Thanks for the warm welcome, Electricme.

Its not cheese being made in the moon, its Mochi :-)  I have a pet rabbit up there pounding away...

I am interested to see if power is increased if that "tower" is entrained in the ground. Neat idea but if it works out of the ground then its all galvanic IMHO. Still amazing, but people will want to hook huge loads to it and get dissapointed when it dosn't work. That tower idea would go great in a flashlight body, and instead of changing the batteries, you would have to just get it wet. Leave it in a stream for a while or something.

About stubblefield coils...  How were they wound? in the patent picture it almost looks like each wrap was on top of each other, and when it got to the perimeter, another layer was made (series pancake coils). I tried that and realized it was harder to do then I thought because my steel wire was smaller then my copper... I wrapped felt insulation between everything.  So I made one "pancake layer" and then just wrapped the rest of the coil normal style, with felt layers. 3 layers total. I also need to make a connection from the core too, right?

About pancake vs cylinders... Dr.Stiffler says that a pancake coil slows down the (E field?) to slower then the speed of light while a cylinder speeds it up much faster when being pulsed... The speed up was contributed to capacitance coupling - the power taking a shortcut through a quicker path.    So I was thinking to gather power, wouldn't pancakes be better then cylinders? The wave would impact all wire at once instead of being guided through 1 at a time, giving more amps. The pancake acting as a brake while the cylinder acting as a turbo...

Cheers!

Cosmicfarmer:

Glad to see you made it here from Youtube land.  Welcome.

A quick and dirty explanation of the construction of the Stubblefield coil as we know it from research and studying the patent:

It should be wound on a soft iron core.
Solid copper wire and solid soft iron wire. (bare, no insulation as far as plastic, etc)
Unless you can find cotton insulated wire that does not have teflon inside the cotton.
The point is to have insulation for separation that allows all of the moisture to pass through.
Wind the coil bifilar after insulating the core along its length.  I used strips cut from a cotton T-shirt for this.
There are several ways to do this next step, I will tell you how I did it first.
I wound the first layer on the insulated core bifilar.  When I got to the end of the core, I took cotton string that was the same diameter as my wire and wound it in between the copper and iron wires.  You have to do this twice starting from 2 places to isolate both sides of the wire. (This will make much more sense when you see it)
Then, wrap another layer of cotton insulation over the first layer of wire.  Repeat for as many layers as you have wire and patience to wind.
Some of the other folks took small strips of cotton material and wrapped their wire with it prior to winding.  This is a difficult and, to me, tedious, way of doing this but, we don't have many choices now.  In Stubblefield's time, the wire available was all cotton insulated, and it had only cotton and no other plastic under the cotton.  It would be a breeze to wind coils if that were the case today.
It would be good if you wind your coil so that you end up with all of the wire ends (4) on the same end of the coil.  I didn't do this on my first one and did on my second.  This way, you can bury the coil and just have the top of it sticking out of the ground with the 4 wires exposed for hook-up.

Jeanna and Jim can probably give you more information but, basically, this is what I did and it does work.  We just never followed through and set up the pulsing device which he used (we are not sure exactly how) which is where he got his power from.  I am thinking now that a transistor will do this but, a lot of research will need to be done on that.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Hi everybody,
I was taking some readings for the datalogging thread and I had some interesting shots so I thought I would show you here at this thread...

Cosmicfarmer... perhaps there is too much information on the 2 stubblefield threads, but it is a good thing to read. It might save you a load of trouble or inspire you to more!
At the moment there is a new Stubblefield winder (protonmom) who has just begun winding Stubblefield coils. It might be perfect for you to jump in there right now. That way you 2 will be sharing new ideas born of the older ones, and we will all gain from that.

Nueview, perhaps it is the explanation you gave about moisture, but I think it is about surface area of contact. It is no good to use the ground soaking wet because it takes the readings down to the galvanic only level. When moist, this is not so present so it is possible for the spikes and other movements of the magnetic currents to be seen. But since it is being viewed through electrical devices, via wires, there must be some contact.
Ever have an EKG? even there the process requires a cream on the skin for good contact.

Would anybody like to see my pictures from today.
I had incredible spikes today and interestingly only with the simple probes in the earth not with the other set up that has Stubblefield coils added. I am thinking this means it is coming from the earth since there was no sort of antenna.


dc volts then the captions say what they are. the 303khz pair are wide wave and I didn't bother to move the markers. The 2.22Mhz is real.
These spikes could be the hi bark of the new puppy next door. It could also be the puppy was being bothered by something and was barking.
This does not look like a sound waveform at all, but I want to add it.

jeanna

Here are my first EB (2 cells) connected to a joule thief. I just add the black cap to have enough power. The led blink because he's too big, with smaller cap no more blink but a low light.

I get ~1.3V with no load and it drop to 0.5V connected to the joule thief.

edit: video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UikDRvySVEI

Here are my first EB (2 cells) connected to a joule thief. I just add the black cap to have enough power. The led blink because he's too big, with smaller cap no more blink but a low light.

I get ~1.3V with no load and it drop to 0.5V connected to the joule thief.

kamax
That is cool.

Are you willing to time this?
Just let it run until it stops running?
Give daily or eventually weekly then monthly updates?
I am curious to see if this will just keep on going.

Last year, or 2 years ago by now, I put a series battery together using aluminum foil and carbon (carpenter's pencil). It worked well lighting a led with no other part. No joule thief etc.
It lasted 2 full days, as I recall. Finally I took it apart because one electrode was gummed up.
The theory is that when it is in the earth and perhaps in pots of earth the battery elements will continue to work.
I would like to know. And, since you have set this up I hope you will be willing to report.

===

@cap-z-ro,
I am paying attention to those reports. Please keep them coming.
The pulsing you were providing was much slower than the pulsing normally present in the earth, but, or because of this it is helpful.

thank you,

jeanna

That is right Bill,

Here is the part I want to test.

There are 2 categories in earth batteries.

The galvanic part and the pulsed part.

In the galvanic part, if these elements get eaten up or even gum up over time, then we will have an indication that the soil components have no play in the way the EB's of old lasted. (And this will mean they lasted because of the magnetic pulses, currents)

Since Kamax's set up is purely galvanic yet made in soil as electrolyte, this is the perfect way to learn if or how much the soil itself is stopping the electrodes from dissolving.

I am very interested to find out this part.

Many times forum people will say, "purely galvanic" and dismiss it.
If it is soil microbes or minerals that are replenishing the metals, then being in pots in the house will make it the critical step different from soil in the changing mag fields of the earth. And let us know.

thank you both for bringing this up,

jeanna

@jeanna
This setup is only for testing, i will make other to see if the lenght/wide of the copper tube give me more power or not to avoid a too big voltage drop when in charge.
For the moment it runs for +3h now wihtout any changes but the long testing setup over the time will begin only when i have finished to try all what i want to test and keep the best one.

@all
I don't know if it's galvanic effect or not, i think i use the same piece for my setup as you except mine is in a pot and not in the "real earth". I'm not sure but if my electrodes are slowly dissolved, i think your electrodes would be dissolved too in the real ground ?

I must admit that my setup works only with a little water, a full dry earth don't give me any output but the amout of water don't change anyting, only a little is enough.

I will report all my future result here with you, i read this forum for a very long time and love what you are doing and be very happy to share something with you.

@jeanna
This setup is only for testing, i will make other to see if the lenght/wide of the copper tube give me more power or not to avoid a too big voltage drop when in charge.
For the moment it runs for +3h now wihtout any changes but the long testing setup over the time will begin only when i have finished to try all what i want to test and keep the best one.

@all
I don't know if it's galvanic effect or not, i think i use the same piece for my setup as you except mine is in a pot and not in the "real earth". I'm not sure but if my electrodes are slowly dissolved, i think your electrodes would be dissolved too in the real ground ?

I must admit that my setup works only with a little water, a full dry earth don't give me any output but the amout of water don't change anyting, only a little is enough.

I will report all my future result here with you, i read this forum for a very long time and love what you are doing and be very happy to share something with you.

If you read some of the Stubblefield research, you can see where he says that his coils buried in the ground exhibit no deterioration and will last for many, many years.
I have seen this with my set-up thus far, although it has been only just short of two years, not long enough to tell really.  So, your tests will be helpful for sure.  If you run this for a while and see no breakdown of materials, well, that will tell us something.

I may make a similar set-up for testing purposes myself.  I have said this many times before and I will say it again...no one, that we know of, really knows why this works so, this means we can't really say right now what works and what does not.  The best way is to try.

Bill

tonight's readings::

up to 25 plastic-coated steel wire coils now

0.85v

7 ma

with two 4.7mF (4700 micro) caps have my LEDs blinking rapidly.
getting real close to "staying on"

think i need to make a better joule thief, mine is garbage compared to some that i have seen.

best so far i think was some kind of "modified fuji circuit", possibly from a television? not sure...
was a PirateLabs video lighting a large flourescent tube from an EB.  (was that you Bill??)

anyhow, i think with these large current ratings im getting, i could do some impressive things with the right joule thief at my disposal....

my next mission is to break the 10 milliamp barrier.

need more steel wire