Hi Infringer,

The link below will answer most of your questions:

http://www.otherpower.com/trips1.html

I used those tips in building my alternator and the only deviations I did was to make the stator in 2 sections (easily removable without having to take apart the magnet rotors) for ease of coils experimentation and using 12 (one per coil) rectifier bridges. If one rectifier blow, the alternator still works and you get about 33% increase in efficiency. The ideal ratio is for 3 coils 4 magnet sets for a lower "spin up speed". I used magnets that have a 87.6 lb of pull so I made a wooden template to hold them on the steel disk while the super glue dried and still got a few bleeders from snaps. Check your local autopart for the Locktite superglue, it comes in 3 viscosity and also in large format containers.

I used regular bodywork fiberglass sheets and resin.

Take care,

Michel

Edit: link to my Newman motor and alternator: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=5287.0

Bridge rectifiers where can I find some dependable rectifiers and the other electronics I need to convert the 3 phase to DC and what exactly do I need could you provide me with parts and links for the electronics obviously I will need a charge controller to disburse the power from the rectifiers into the batteries but I guess I want to do this cheaply but provide maximal power output ...

GREAT HELP

I just ask that you do not give up and tell me to go elsewhere for info we need the information available here for everyone to see no hopping site to site lets streamline here!

As far as the keeping the mags in place maybe if glue then glass or possibly use some screws along each side of the magnet or what about using magnetic shielding aluminum foil  or something IDK this does provide quite a risk to take on... there has got to be some way to assure that the magnets do not smack together they tend to bust when that happens at least from my expirence and being 145lbs of pull force it is a nice way to break a finger indeed... But I figure the stronger the magnet the better the power output good thing I did not go with them 300lb mags though the thought crossed my mind...

Re Infringer,

If you go for a Savonius design, you can use a carbon fiber, fiberglass or wood rotor as the coils are around the rotor. Not sure what is the minimum spacing of the magnets/coils though.

All of the above still apply, iron behind the magnets will increase the strength of the flux and give you more inertia in fluctuating wind.

Take care,

Michel

P.S.: In the study of the Bedini window motor, we found that all North or all South facing the coils produce more output. So experiment before putting the glue... The iron behind the magnets will be of help but put a wood spacer between the magnets and iron before the final setup.

Hi Infringer,

I checked the Savonius design and found this:

http://mb-soft.com/public/wind.html

What I Consider to be a Savonius Rotor!
Top View - Savonius (Drawing is a top view of a completed Savonius)

For these reasons, I tend to have a "lower-cost-approach" to wind-generated electricity! Specifically, there is one version of the Savonius rotor which is the ONLY one that I have ever built or used (maybe 15 or 20 of them over the years). When I refer to a Savonius Rotor, I therefore refer to ONLY the following: Get an old 55-gallon drum. Draw a line completely around it, to be able to saw it apart into two exactly identical half-drums (vertically). The two halves will then resemble two rocker baby cribs. I generally use a Sabre saw with a fine-toothed metal cutting blade, and it makes a LOT of noise!

The two halves are stood up (as though they were still actual drums) where their one cut edge is nearlly touching each other, but the two are facing opposite directions. You should see the INSIDE of one half drum and the OUTSIDE of the other, whichever side you look from. Then place a 36" length of 1x1x1/8 angle iron (or larger) on top of the two and across both. Drill some holes in the tops of the drum-halves and the angle, and use 1/4" bolts to securely attach the angle iron to the drum halves. I use lock washers to make sure the bolts will not loosen from vibration.

Flip it over and mount a second piece of angle iron on the other end of the drum-halves. THAT is pretty much it! How much did this cost? Well, I have always found drums for free, because a lot of people want to discard them. The angle iron and bolts might be around $4, so that is the total cost of the Savonius that I call a Savonius!

I generally drill a 9/16" hole through the very center of both the top and bottom angle piece. There can be merit in using slightly larger angle, as my holes drill away nearly the entire flange of the angle! But I then drive a length of 1" (or larger) water pipe into the ground, several feet. On the top, I get a pipe reducer down to 1/2" and I add a short piece of 1/2" water pipe, maybe a foot. I then get a 4 foot length of 1/2" solid steel rod. I put that rod into the 1/2" pipe at least 9 inches, and drill a small hole through the pipe and rod to secure it. Two might be better.

There is now the larger water pipe sticking up maybe 10 feet above the ground, with the 1/2" rod sticking about 3 feet above that. I then raise the Savonius assembly above it and lower the holes in the angles down over the vertical rod. I usually find salvage water pipe to drive into the ground, so this tower assembly often costs only around $5. The entire project therefore often costs around $10 total!

Yes, buying actual bearings can make sense, but this works fairly well as described, although it sometimes squeals due to metal friction! Given that the 55-gallon drum will likely only last two or three years before it rusts out, I found that my non-bearings never caused any of the angle irons to break from wear.

POINT: Since this entire assembly only cost me about $10, I never really needed massive amounts of electricity before it paid for itself! Since virtually NO other wind-generated electricity system has ever actually paid for its own cost, right there is a real advantage, the way I see it!

POINT: Since this Savonius and tower is so simple, easy, quick, and dirt-cheap to make, I tended to save up all the old barrels I could find, and convert them all into Savonius Rotors! Yes, there is a serious UGLINESS factor! (I did not have any close neighbors in any of three different locations I made them.)

Savonius We show another drawing here which shows both the benefit of a Savonius as well as its greatest disadvantage! The two lower arrows show the wind that is caught INSIDE the concave half of the Savonius, which then forces it to rotate around its central (vertical) shaft. This shows why it has such great torque, even at very low wind speeds.

The upper two arrows show the disadvantage. The oncoming wind hits the convex half of the Savonuis as well, and only its convex shape is what causes the air to be deflected sideways around it. If you think about it, the wind's effect on the two halves of the Savonius is not that different, same speed, same area, the only difference being the concave and convex shapes presented to the oncoming air. You probably see why a Savonius only has around 13% overall efficiency; much of the power that might be captured has to get used up pushing the convex half!

We will see below that such Savonius Rotors, combined with standard (used) GM car alternators, and the common 10 to 11 mph wind in the Midwest, can REALISTICALLY create maybe 7 watts (24 hours every day), then ten of these very cheap devices can produce 70 watts, or almost two kilowatt-hours per day. THAT is a useful amount of electricity! As long as you have lots of batteries to store it!


Not very efficient...

Take care,

Michel

Are you crazy I don't take anything as a low blow here you have been nothing but helpful...

But explain to me why it is improper to use plastic?

Doesn't aluminum foil serve as a good shield for magnets as I have seen in several videos.

My magnets are http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_5&products_id=53 145lbs of pull force.

I am not trying to reinvent the wheel at all just trying to make the thing a bit lighter... So it turns more easily why do you believe that making it lighter in weight will lower the power production ? I don't understand that unless of course we are going to use a gearbox?

Please explain further obviously you know something about wind turbines as you explain I do want the proper research done before the investment as well that is always a must ...

Well I guess I shouldn't have said that otherpower is all about money we know that is not entirely true. They capitalize off of lazy people which is where most revenue is generated from... But they have been a favorite site of mine for the past couple years... And they go above and beyond any store indeed they share everything with you free of charge!!!

So I retract my previous statement and sub it with this one my apologies that may have been a bit harsh on my part actually...

I would like to get ahold of a steam engine and build that wood burning generator as well someday down the road...

Anyhow take care hope to hear from you soon.

I am curious as to where you are going  mentally with this design as well...
Maybe there is a flaw in not using metal but I always thought that steel never really severed as a good shielding for magnets anyways...

Hi Infringer and Cityguy,

Infringer, a heavy rotor helps smooth out the rotation specially when there is wind gusts, same as a heavy flywheel on the old one cylinder farm motors without it you would break a crankshaft in no time. It helps to protect the blades on a windmill from constant speed up and down. It also serves to maximize your magnetic flux where it counts and that is where your coils sit plus it smooths out your power curve.

Cityguy probably knows more than both of us together, so I may chime in from time to time but all I know, I have told you... I never made a windmill or studied much about it since I cannot install one that would be higher than my fence. I will make one this summer but it will be 4 to 5 feet high and sit on my rear porch and complement my motor/charger that is in the design stage now and solar panels. I am also planing a stationary bike small charger for my wife who likes to pedal while watching her soaps. So why not charge my many UPS batteries in front of the TV.

Take care both,

Michel