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Solid States Devices => solid state devices => Topic started by: Goat on March 02, 2009, 09:36:55 AM
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@ All
This is thread 2 of the previous Gadgetmall's Fuji Mod light CFL from 1 AA/AAA for - 12 hrs + - Thread 1 so please post any constructive information on this thread.
Regards,
Paul
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@ All
Here's my first attempt, I removed the transformer from a Fuji disposable camera circuit board and started a prototype board with a 10 K ohm 20 turn potentiometer, the 68 pf capacitor is in parallel to the pot.
I also found a handy 3 terminal socket that will hold transistors, only problem with this is the pin assignment once soldered onto the the prototype board.
Regards,
Paul
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@ All
First attempt at the barebone Fuji mod circuit and I successfully am lighting a CFL using a single AA battery!
Edit: I'm going to add the capacitors on a separate duplicate board so that I can use the 3 socket to test different transistors on the original board.
Edit 2: Note, the dot on the transformer was on pin 4 so I reversed the connections to pin 4 to collector and pin 1 to the positive.
Regards,
Paul
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Nice work. Might I be so kind as to ask for a hand drawn circuit diagram, all the red ink is confusing - besides, the picture looks like something totally different.
I'll redraw the circuit in the DIA program if you decide to ...it's pretty handy for drawing circuits.
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Hi jadaro2600
Here's the barebone version of the original drawing.
Regards,
Paul
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@ All
Test is over, battery stopped lighting the CFL at approximately 4.5 hours duration.
Not bad for a barebones mini Tesla circuit....LOL
Now for the next steps.....fine tunning...stay tuned... pun intended :)
Regards,
Paul
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Thankyou, Pirate posted a bunch of stuff here on the jtc.. fujii mod included http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0)
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The following transistors were tested on the barebone setup as posted in the above schematic and are listed as Yes/No for being able to light the CFL without any further modifications to the circuit.
2SD2470 - Yes
2SD2504 - Yes
2N2222A - Yes
2N4401 - Yes
2N3904 - No
2N3055 - No
2SC5720 - Yes
2SC5607 - Yes
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I took apart 5 Fuji circuit boards last night and so far and all of the transformers with the low turn heavy wire primary have 6 pins but only 5 of the posts have wires hooked up to them, so far the 6th pin only appears to be there as a locator pin.
@ xee2
@ Goat
I built the above circuit using a Kodak 5 pin transformer (see JT thread) and it did not light up the tube near as bright as the Fuji 6 pin transformer. I think you should use the 6 pin transformer instead of the 5 pin for your standard circuits since it seems to provide better performance.
I was using the Fuji 6 pin transformer when I did the barebone test circuit posted above but as you can see all of these transformers have 6 pins but only 5 have wires hooked up to them. If you were using the 6 pin transformer from a Fuji was there a wire hooked up to the 6th pin?
I am only using the Fuji transformers and not any others right now as it is the only one that has the low turn heavy wire primary while Kodak and all the others don't, I'm trying to replicate the low amp input and 12 hour CFL duration that Gadgetmall posted.
What's interesting is that the original circuit posted on the josepino.com site shows a transformer with 6 wires in the schematic (see pic), I'm wondering if there was ever any transformers in the Fuji that had 6 wire transformers, he did post it in 2006 so maybe they changed the transformer over the years.
@ Gadget
Do you know if any of the Fuji circuits you modded so far had 6 wire transformers or were they all 5 wire with the 6th post as a locator pin?
The reason I'm asking is that if we don't need the 6th wire then there's that much less confusion. So far it seems that the only component needed from the Fuji cameras is the transformer as the barebone circuit proved. If all we need to add is the variable resistor and cap(s) to tune the circuit for lower amp draw then the only challenge would be to find the same transformer from electronic suppliers :)
Regards,
Paul
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Hi All
Test #2 - Barebone Fuji transformer circuit with cap in parallel with 10 K Ohm 20 turn resistor and 2SD2470 transistor.
Objective:
Add one component to circuit 1 by including capacitor in parallel to the resistor.
Observations:
1. Tried to hookup VMM to input (GND) wire to measure amperage but CFL didn't light, added 10 ohm as shunt resistor but CFL only turned on dimly and amperage intake over 100 mA. Same result observed when measuring with analog meter.
Problem between Meter and person measuring (Me) or cheap meters don't work with this circuit for measuring amps?
Hooked up analog at battery to monitor voltage drain for now, voltage drop or high amperage intake same thing to me :)
2. Soldered 2 wires in parallel to resistor and hooked up to breadboard.
68 pF cap was worst at battery drain than using 0.01 μF or 10,000 pF.
3. Added 300 V electrolytic cap that came with Fuji camera across input positive and negative wires, brightness increased and less voltage drop.
4. Can light a neon by touching only one lead to either of the output wires!
5. If you mess with the tuning and ground the neon by touching it's second lead or connecting it to house ground it the CFL gets brighter but causes a voltage drop on the battery.
6. The 0.01 μF cap can get the CFL much brighter than circuit 1 without it but there is a voltage drain on the battery.
7. Total brightness with Sunbeam 2U 9W 120 VAC bulb isn't enough to light a room unless you use more voltage.
8. 65 W 120 VAC modded CFL works.better than the 2U 9W 120 VAC bulb for brightness.
Conclusions:
Resistor, Cap and bulb size seem to play a big part in the circuit along with tuning for maximum CFL brightness and input power.
Testing on circuit 2 with more variable resistance and cap values need to be examined before adding more components in circuit 3.
Edit: Battery died, added neon to house ground using only one wire at the output, voltage on battery has climbed back up but won't run the CFL.
Regards,
Paul
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Test #2 continued:
I have run the circuit with different transistors and capacitor values but the results are the same, if I use the 68 pF capacitor and adjust the 10 K pot for a minimum CFL brightness then the battery power consumption is reduced but not much light.
If I increase the capacitance to higher value up to 0.01 μF the battery power consumption is reduced a little but I get even less light. Interesting also is that if I use a higher value polarized electrolytic capacitor I can get the CFL to strobe and not use much power but that isn't useful and gets annoying after awhile....lol
If I increase the brightness of the CFL then the battery is consumed rapidly and the brightness of the CFL dims rapidly.
I hooked up another analog meter to measure the current but it seems to affect the circuit by making the CFL harder to light and using more power to get it going, the best I could get for brightness with the amp meter was showing 70 mA but the battery voltage was lower than without the amp meter in the circuit.
Conclusions:
There must be other components in Fuji circuit that are playing a role in increasing the brightness of the CFL as shown in gadget's video because the barebone circuit with only the transformer and the capacitor is not enough to get the CFL to any reasonable brightness without consuming the battery within a few hours instead of 12 hours.
I may have caused a slight performance problem by reversing the connections to pin 4 to collector and pin 1 to the positive because of the dot being on pin 4 but I won't change this circuit just yet as it does function just not emitting much light.
I will try and build another circuit with all the components that are on a Fuji circuit to further test this but I don't see many components coming into play as the switch used for the flash isn't closed and therefore excludes some of the components. I won't be able to use the circuit layout as posted on the josepino.com site because it shows a transformer with 6 wires in the schematic while all the ones that I have only use 5 pins.
Paul
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Hi All
Test #2 A - Barebone Fuji transformer circuit with cap in parallel with 1 K Ohm 20 turn resistor and 2SD2470 transistor.
Still messing around with the barebone Fuji circuit, after many configurations I am up to over 24 hours lighting a CFL at a low level on a used AA battery.
Tests depend on the battery condition, CFL size (Watts), transistor, resistor and capacitor size.
So far all the tests on the CFL barebone for time length end up with something like a night light as far as brightness using this circuit, I'm working my way up to the rest of the Fuji circuit next.
In the meantime I decided to try to lighthing a "Limelight" or "Indiglo" electroluminescent light and it works quite well as a night light off an AA battery as well, again depending on different capacitor/ resistance configurations but it works :)
Slowly making my way up to the full Fuji circuit but it's interesting so far.
Regards,
Paul
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Hi All
Test #2 B - Barebone Fuji transformer circuit with cap in parallel with 1 K Ohm 20 turn resistor and 2SD2470 transistor.
Well this is interesting, after running the above test with the electroluminescent light it finally gave out at approximately 0.4 VDC.
I disconnected the battery from the circuit and it climbed up to 0.95 VDC.
I tried to light the CFL but it just drained the voltage and wouldn't light.
I placed a small DC motor in parallel with the circuit and it would run after adjusting the capacitor and resistance but then the voltage started going up past 0.95 VDC!
At that point I got the CFL light to start flickering without a drop in voltage.
I adjusted the resistance further and the light got brighter without losing voltage and settling in at 1.11 VDC and driving the small motor, any less resistance and it started dropping the battery voltage without any gain in the CFL intensity.
Well I'm satisfied that I made a gain on the original barebone circuit and will leave it at that till tomorrow when I'll check in to see if the motor is still running while driving the CFL and how much voltage it dropped.
So far though, it seems to be balancing driving the motor off the battery while driving the barebone circuit and lighting the CFL with a recharge effect on the depleted battery :)
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Time to move on past the barebone circuit and start adding components, so far the bigger the CFL the more power consumption and shorter run times (didn't last more than 4 - 5 hours) and at nightlight level lasted over 12 - 24 hours depending on CFL size.
N/A = pins and/or solder points but not connected to circuit (duds).
1. Battery Negative
1(a). Battery Negative solder connection
2. Transistor - Emmiter
3. Transistor - Collector
4. Transistor - Base
5. Battery Positive solder connection
6. Battery Positive
7. Switch connection 1
8. Switch connection 2
9. 220 ohm lead 1
10. 220 ohm lead 2
11. Diode positive (Anode)
12. Diode negative (Cathode)
13. Transformer Pin 4
14. Transformer Pin 1
15. 4.7 M Ohm lead1
16. N/A
17. 4.7 M Ohm lead2
18. N/A
19. Transformer Pin 6 (Locator pin, no wire)
20. Transformer Pin 2
21. Transformer Pin 3
22. Transformer Pin 5
23. N/A
24. Connected to Flash switch lead 1
25. 0.022 micro Farad capacitor lead 1
26. 0.022 micro Farad capacitor lead 2
27. HV pulse coil pin - N/A (no wire)
28. HV pulse coil lead 1
29. Connected to Flash switch lead 2
30. 10 K Ohm lead1
31. 10 K Ohm lead2
32. N/A
33. HV pulse coil lead 2
34. HV pulse coil pin - N/A (no wire)
35. Neon lead 1
36. Neon lead 2
37. Ouput capacitor Positive lead
38. Flash bulb center lead
39. Flash bulb inner lead
40. Ouput capacitor Negative lead
41. N/A
42. Flash bulb outer lead
Note: Flash bulb's third lead goes to top of HV pulse coil (back of circuit not shown).
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Hello Goat . All the transformers are 5 wires . I have modded all Fuji camer circuits and all run a cfl for over 12 hours / i was selling completed units and kits on my www.sunpowerwindpower.com site for the AA version but they are all Gone Now . I do have several aaa versions that work just as well . You have to realize thta this is Cold electricity and the bulb will not lite up near as blinding bright as on house current but there are ways to make it bright . one way is to warm the bulb with a hair dryer . Also i do not Lie and i am sorry you guys couldn't replicate My Devices . well everyone except Fasto . He got some to work like mine . I have to say the only components i used were the pot and a 68 pf cap . PERIOD!!! The only thing you should be concerned with is the primary circuit in resonance . If you notice the primary winding is 7 or 8 turns of number 26 wire on the outside of the transformer. Ok a secret reviled . you add several more windings to make this 11 and you have increased the output and also decreased the input current . I only have to do this with a few of them . i think the secondary of some of those fuji transformers are damaged from the factory or from being overdriven because the wire they use is like # 42 and will short or break with a breath . while this wont affect the original intention of the circuit to charge a 350 volt cap it wont be enuff to make My mod . I still have two completed AA units build as lamps that i use for a bedside light . run time is 18 hours 20 minuets using a 45 watt 110 volt modified cfl bulb . these units still are oscillating after they stop lighting the cfl and will continue to run a string of Christmas leds for another 8 hours . they are all stock primary windings .other modules need the extra primary windings added to get them to fire .
Conclusion . I just got the touch ! and everyone who bought the units from me can prove what i say . approximately 16 units were sold . recommend you run them with a good Ni-mh battery ion the 2500 Mah range .
Gadget
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Greetings Colleagues and experimenters.
I have been reading from this site and the energetic forum site for quite some time now, and have built many projects since the 1980's.
This is my first post.
I built gagetmall's fuji mod light using two AA batteries instead of 1 AA. I added a second modified CFL. and noticed that the current draw from different CFL's were different,even from the same package. So I used a series variable resistor for each CFL (100 k and 1 M's I had on hand). I did this to equal out the brightness and the current draw from the different CFL's. I was able to light up seven CFL's in parallel this way.
What amazed me was when running CFL's individually the current draw would run from 226 ma to 320 ma, but when I run all seven CFL's the current draw is only 334 ma (334 mv across a 1 ohm resistor), and that little transistor doesn't even get warm. Absolutely amazing. I believe you are right this little circuit demonstrates cold electricity.
The only change I made to the circuit is that I used two 10k and 1m variable resistor in series for the base of the transistor.
Will post a picture as soon as I figure out how.
P.S. Gagetmall, Download "World Without Cancer" by G. Edward Griffith from youtube. I cured my skin cancer using the vitamin B17 from chia seeds and other seeds.
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btw the dot on the transformer means pin 1
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have you tried leds instead of a cfl i think the leds might give more light
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Here are the pictures. Photography by Bonnie.
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After I posted my pictures and went back on the internet,the screen shots became expanded. Is there something I did wrong. I kept the image size less than 500 Kb as requested.
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the pixal size is the thing to watch not the file size
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After I posted my pictures and went back on the internet,the screen shots became expanded. Is there something I did wrong. I kept the image size less than 500 Kb as requested.
Right click/ Open in Windows Paint / Image/ Stretch-Skew/ Resize % in Stretch, same value for horizontal and vertical.
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Thank you dasimpson and happyfunball for the information, will try posting the pictures again. Not sure how to delete the previous images.
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Thank you dasimpson and happyfunball for the information, will try posting the pictures again. Not sure how to delete the previous images.
Still too big lol
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i find a tool called gimp is best for resizing unlike other programs i have used it gives you the opton of pixal size you wont to change the image to and the best bit is it is free
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Tried to delete previous oversize images, but to no avail. the instructions on this site on how to do it are very sketchy. Anyway here are the new smaller pictures. Photography by Bonnie.
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Delta1,
Step II;
Think of forming a cube from five solar cells glued along their edges, active
side facing inward, in a shape of a cube with no top. Now glue four toothpicks
to the base of the lamps so that the glass bulb can hang down inside the open
solar cell cube with the glass spiral bulb not touching any cell.
Solar cells have a “power knee†so if you place them in series and load them with a
resistor you will need to adjust the resistance to get maximum wattage from the solar
cells. Now calculate how many bulbs and cubes you will need to have the system run
itself. Then go build yourself a self running power supply.
It should work. The extra “cold electricity is actually free electrons captured from
the environment due to the high voltage pulses. And yes, they can create a self
running system. If you use a cap have a push to start switch charging the cap
from the battery. Eventually it will have enough energy to run itself then the
switch can disconnect the battery.
Then come back here and show us how it’s done.
:S:MarkSCoffman
ps: Imagine building a working perpetual motion machine as high school
science fair project! Indefinitely perplexing. ;)
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Hi all,
Just saw this circuit mod on youtube and am trying to get it to work. I have 2 circuit boards from a Kodak and Click imagery one use cameras.
I have removed and bridged the diode connections and connected the cfl to the capacitor outputs after removing the capacitor. I have also connected a switch across the original switch connectors.
The cfl lights very dimly and seems to only be partly lit.
I have been searching for 2 days and can't find a solution.
Any help appreciated.
Greg
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Update.......
Managed to get my cfl to light but only if I use 2 x 1.5 AA batteries for a total of 2.83 volts.
Now don't get me wrong, I am still impressed at lighting a 240 volt cfl from 2.83 volts but others are lighting theirs from 1 AA and I would love to do this.
I have seen mention of adding a pot to the board to adjust the brightness and I rememeber someone saying to replace a 1 k resistor with a 100 ohm pot but I don't have any 1 k resistors on my boards.
I have attached a pic showing the resistors and their values.