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Author Topic: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube  (Read 28935 times)

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Will post drawings and video
« Reply #15 on: January 27, 2009, 07:19:35 PM »
Hi all,
I have improved the Pseudo Solid design and will be posting video as soon as I can get it machined. I will post drawings and animation also.
I wonder if it could be something this simple. Thanks for the input you guys.
If anyone would like to exchange information using your full name, email me at lafontegroup@charter.net
Thanks,
Butch LaFonte
Note: There is an old saying, "Don't argue with a fool, people might not know the difference"

sparks

  • Hero Member
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  • Posts: 2528
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2009, 09:21:25 PM »
   A selfrunner magnetic motor is just atomic energy at work.  Whatever creates the electric and magnetic moments of an atom is your power scource.     We accept that there is a migration of free electrons within a semiconductor.  Why is it impossible to accept there is such a migration of electrons within a metallic crystal.

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2009, 09:40:58 PM »
   A selfrunner magnetic motor is just atomic energy at work.  Whatever creates the electric and magnetic moments of an atom is your power scource.
Sparks,
At this point I believe your are correct.
Butch

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Should you want to build test fixture, drawing attached
« Reply #18 on: January 28, 2009, 05:59:47 AM »
See attached,
Use 1/8" plastic spacers between magnets and stator bars where they meet.
Butch

Xaverius

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 266
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #19 on: January 28, 2009, 07:48:16 PM »
Hi, Xaverius!

It's good that you've examined mr. LaFonte's (/ his group) device "in vivo"...


However, the "one shot" concept is not enough to recognise a real "overunity".

This was understood more than a century ago..  Old stuff, kind of..?.



(Remember the "SMOT" concept?)  ;) It's almost 90 years old....

Do you people really understand the concept of "Energy" (and all what is happening during the "interchange")?... Or, repetitive / periodical functioning, or the point of "closing " the cycle?
Yes or No?
Mr. LaFonte?

Why is it always so difficult (impossible, maybe?) to "close the loop"?



One-shot concept?  You mean an open loop?  I totally agree, I've talked to Butch
about this, his next step is to obtain machining resources and materials to scale it up and produce a continuous output.  We are open to ideas as how to best couple the components to produce free energy.  Any suggestions?

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Getting requests for drawings and parts lists, plus machine shop do and do not
« Reply #20 on: January 28, 2009, 10:12:29 PM »
I am getting requests for fabrication drawings and materials list for the Pseudo Solid proof of concept fixture.
I will make a more detailed drawing and post it.
Also here is a list of things to be careful about when dealing with machine shops.
1. Never tell the shop you are building an overunity device. Tell them you are building a class room teaching aid for a high school or college teacher.
If they ask what it does tell them it demonstrates magnetic field behavior. I say that and they have never asked another thing about what it is.
2. When you request it be built out of 1018 steel, be very animate that it be 1018 because of it's particular magnetic properties. I have had shops just grab any thing they have in their shop and think you won't know the difference. If you get high carbon or hard ferromagnetic steel it will stay magnetized after leaving the magnetic field. Plus test results will vary and get everyone confused and alienated. I have 1018 magnetic properties data if any one needs it.
3. Take the 1/8" steel rod with you and leave it with him so he can put a micrometer on it to match the thru hole for the rod slip fit. Clean the rod with steel wool or emery cloth till it is smooth and shiny before he gets it for measuring it's diameter. Tell him you need the rotors to slide and rotate freely, but not have any play.
If it is too tight when you get it home you can use emery cloth on the rod to get it just right. I have done it many times. The rotor has to rotate freely at all costs.
You should be able to blow on it and it rotate.
4. When you get it home, clean and debur the parts and all edges. Remember you may put it on video and the world see it.
5. Try keeping it indoors and spray it with WD40 to keep it from rusting. I have 1018 that is seven years old in my office and is still shiny and shows no rust.
6. Build the frame from wood to save money if needed and never from any ferromagnetic material. Aluminum is OK also.
7. Only test when unit is level.
8. Keep children and the dog away from it. My daughters were always interested it my machines and I had to lock them up. The machines that is, not my daughters.
Thanks,
Butch LaFonte
lafontegroup@charter.net
 

sushimoto

  • Full Member
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  • Posts: 202
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #21 on: January 28, 2009, 10:37:22 PM »
Hi butch,

i am still enjoying this thread an there seems to be a progress :)

Do you have any clue, what "(CRS?) 1018 steel" could be in europe?
We do have "DIN"- norm, in which numbers differ from yours (AISI?) in the US.
Machine shops rarely knowing the exact formula of their material,
so i cannot ask for i.E. "RFe12 Carbon Steel" maybe cold rolled... 

anybody?

best,
sushi

PS EDIT: just found this: http://www.matweb.com/reference/steel.aspx

Exellent site for materials!

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #22 on: January 29, 2009, 02:34:02 AM »
Hi butch,

i am still enjoying this thread an there seems to be a progress :)

Do you have any clue, what "(CRS?) 1018 steel" could be in europe?
We do have "DIN"- norm, in which numbers differ from yours (AISI?) in the US.
Machine shops rarely knowing the exact formula of their material,
so i cannot ask for i.E. "RFe12 Carbon Steel" maybe cold rolled... 

anybody?

best,
sushi

PS EDIT: just found this: http://www.matweb.com/reference/steel.aspx

Exellent site for materials!
Here is some additional info on 1018.
Let me know if you can not find out what 1018 designation is there.
Butch LaFonte
http://www.iea.lth.se/emk/literature/FEMM40_matlib.pdf
 
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=195439&page=1
 
http://home.eng.iastate.edu/~nbowler/pdf%20final%20versions/conferences/QNDE2005Bowler.pdf
 
http://www.lord.com/Portals/0/MR/Magnetic_Circuit_Design.pdf
 
http://www.vacuumschmelze.de/dynamic/en/index.php

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Re: Additional shop info. and fixture set up info.
« Reply #23 on: January 29, 2009, 03:08:57 AM »
I am getting requests for fabrication drawings and materials list for the Pseudo Solid proof of concept fixture.
I will make a more detailed drawing and post it.
Also here is a list of things to be careful about when dealing with machine shops.
1. Never tell the shop you are building an overunity device. Tell them you are building a class room teaching aid for a high school or college teacher.
If they ask what it does tell them it demonstrates magnetic field behavior. I say that and they have never asked another thing about what it is.
2. When you request it be built out of 1018 steel, be very animate that it be 1018 because of it's particular magnetic properties. I have had shops just grab any thing they have in their shop and think you won't know the difference. If you get high carbon or hard ferromagnetic steel it will stay magnetized after leaving the magnetic field. Plus test results will vary and get everyone confused and alienated. I have 1018 magnetic properties data if any one needs it.
3. Take the 1/8" steel rod with you and leave it with him so he can put a micrometer on it to match the thru hole for the rod slip fit. Clean the rod with steel wool or emery cloth till it is smooth and shiny before he gets it for measuring it's diameter. Tell him you need the rotors to slide and rotate freely, but not have any play.
If it is too tight when you get it home you can use emery cloth on the rod to get it just right. I have done it many times. The rotor has to rotate freely at all costs.
You should be able to blow on it and it rotate.
4. When you get it home, clean and debur the parts and all edges. Remember you may put it on video and the world see it.
5. Try keeping it indoors and spray it with WD40 to keep it from rusting. I have 1018 that is seven years old in my office and is still shiny and shows no rust.
6. Build the frame from wood to save money if needed and never from any ferromagnetic material. Aluminum is OK also.
7. Only test when unit is level.
8. Keep children and the dog away from it. My daughters were always interested it my machines and I had to lock them up. The machines that is, not my daughters.
Thanks,
Butch LaFonte
lafontegroup@charter.net
Additional information
9. Ask the shop if they can machine to plus or minus .005" if possible.
10. While at the shop assemble rotors on shaft and see if they interlock with no touching and all gaps look consistent.
11. The radius call outs in the new drawing will cause the air gaps between the interlock elements to be .050"
Cut a piece of wood the exact size of the rotor to use when lining up the rotor between the stator bars. This will eliminate any problems with the stator wanting to "jump" to the stator when setting it up in the center. After setting it up just exchange the wood for the steel rotors.
Set up > Cut a piece of wood the exact size of the rotor to use when lining up the rotor between the stator bars. This will eliminate any problems with the stator wanting to "jump" to the stator when setting it up in the center. After setting it up just exchange the wood for the steel rotors.
Make sure that the rotors are as close to perfect center between the top and bottom stator bars. This will reduce any pull in one direction on the center steel rod. Also make sure the center axis of the rotors is as close to 90 degrees to the stator assembly as possible for full 360 degrees. These two adjustments are very important.

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Radius Information
« Reply #24 on: January 29, 2009, 04:44:40 AM »
See attached

arringtj

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 18
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #25 on: January 29, 2009, 03:59:24 PM »
Wouldn't it help if the rod was non magnetic?
Brass? Maybe Teflon?  =)

Each rotor piece could be fixed instead of sliding but still rotate about the rod.
Fixed on ring rotor elements would push the whole rotor ring instead of sliding on rod.
The rear of each could have a tiny "roller" that could push off of a helical inside the stator.
Guides could be arranged on Stator to allow only 1 direction of "flip".

Multiple Stators of course 90 degrees orientation from adjacent as previously drawn by Butch.
 
Just some ideas from an ugly sketch yesterday.
Keep it up! Great work.

Best regards,
Jeff

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #26 on: January 29, 2009, 06:33:42 PM »
Wouldn't it help if the rod was non magnetic?
Brass? Maybe Teflon?  =)

Each rotor piece could be fixed instead of sliding but still rotate about the rod.
Fixed on ring rotor elements would push the whole rotor ring instead of sliding on rod.
The rear of each could have a tiny "roller" that could push off of a helical inside the stator.
Guides could be arranged on Stator to allow only 1 direction of "flip".

Multiple Stators of course 90 degrees orientation from adjacent as previously drawn by Butch.
 
Just some ideas from an ugly sketch yesterday.
Keep it up! Great work.

Best regards,
Jeff
Jeff,
I agree that sliding the rod is better than sliding the rotors. I'm looking for small locking collars on the web today to out on each end of the rotor assembly. I just noticed something else, the rod will need a very thin washer placed on it between the two rotor assemblies so that the two rotors will not touch when rotating into the Pseudo Solid position.
I feel the rod needs to stay ferromagnetic so that there will not be a nonmagnetic gap half way through the rotor. Also the shaft flexes easy and I just measured my shaft and it is .150 not .125 and I wonder if we should spec the rod to be very hard, high tensile strength steel to keep it from flexing.
Would you help me search the web to also see if the are any miniature roller bearings that the rod could slide on? The movement needs to be as free and smooth as possible so we can detect any cogging when moving into the stator area with the interlocks open.
Great idea on the rod moving with the rotors.
Thanks,
Butch

Butch LaFonte

  • Guest
Interesting aspects of the Interlocking Pseudo Solid design & a generator?
« Reply #27 on: January 29, 2009, 07:18:56 PM »
Notice that when the interlocks are open and entering the stator magnetic field that every surface that is being pulled in has a surface of the same area that is being pulled back out. This keeps the movement cog free.
Then when the interlocks are allowed to rotate and line up with the field lines that work can be done. The first step in the sequence is 90 degrees to the field and the second is a rotation around the center line that the first step moved along. The interlocking allows the two rotors to become a Pseudo Solid and the field for all practical applications sees the rotor as a solid continuous piece of metal and allows it to move out of the field virtually cog free. One thing to consider here. The flux density in the stator core changes during the rotors interlocking and placement of coils on the stator core will react to this change and produce a voltage/current.
Thanks,
Butch LaFonte

arringtj

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 18
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #28 on: January 29, 2009, 07:55:32 PM »
Butch:

Here is a link to where I have bought many bearings. They have lots of choices. The smallest Linear bearing is 8mm and that is what I bought for the 5 Magnetic pistons in my mag motor. You could use some of their micro slot car bearings on 4 sides of the steel rod, perhaps.

http://www.vxb.com/

Thanks,
Jeff

arringtj

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  • *
  • Posts: 18
Re: LaFonte Group Pseudo Solid Magnet Motor OU test, 3 videos on Youtube
« Reply #29 on: January 29, 2009, 08:19:31 PM »
Butch:Actually, you could use 8mm tube that has i.d. of 1/8th inch or drill this size hole in solid brass rod.
Put one 8mm brass rod on each end of steel rod. Buy (2) 8mm linear bearings and put on each end. Lube with 3 in 1 oil and WOW ! These linears slide fast and easy! See photo of old linear mag design...