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Conventional alternative energy systems => energy and fuel saver => Topic started by: Creativity on January 07, 2009, 12:51:15 AM
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Hello,
in this part of the forum i would like to reserve some space for the project of designing,constructing and testing of a device used to optimise a power factor at ur home electrical grid.By doing so we would be able to pay for the electricity that we really use.
This kind of technology is in everyday use in industry and is well tested and known.I refer here to the topic:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6443.20
Please help to this project.After passing of tests,support it by building and installing of one at ur home.If it works for u ,then spread the idea between ur friends and family.In this way we can make a big impact on global scale and launch first cooperative project of OU forum,that will really work and benefit our society immediately and surely.
greetz,
Creativity
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They sell Power Factor Correction devices on e-bay, for only a few dollars, that plug right into an electrical outlet.
Be sure to get one that corrects power factor on BOTH phases, in America 240 volt. You will need a 240 volt outlet.
Be sure to get the correct number of units to match the wattage used by all your house loads.
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If you live in the United States a quick way to save money on a electricity bill is to "Balance" the amperage or electrical loads so the amperage draw is equal on each leg of electricity that passes through your watt hour electrical meter used by your utility provider.
The way the watt hour meter operates is the amperage or load is divided into two power legs or phases 120 volt line to ground circuits, each of the two being metered on a home 3-wire system (utility transformer or power lines to utility watt hour meter base). If one leg or phase of the 120 volt line to ground is at 40 amps and the other 120 volt line to ground is at 80 amps your pay for the 80 amps the higher of the two. If both 120 volt line to ground legs or phases are balanced at 60 amps per leg or phase ..... right you pay for the 60 amps ..... not the 80 amp high leg or phase on a unbalance 3-wire system.
Alway any modifications to your electrical service system should be done by qualified person or electrician.
There are many homes that used a type of wire called 12/3 NM or 14/3 NM or Romex wire with or without a ground wire (red, black, white) and may be used inside of a electrical circuit breaker panel for two 120 volt circuits this is allowed by the NEC code, and the red and black wires "MUST" be on separate phases or legs to share the neutral or white wire.
Fuzzy :)
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If you live in the United States a quick way to save money on a electricity bill is to "Balance" the amperage or electrical loads so the amperage draw is equal on each leg of electricity that passes through your watt hour electrical meter used by your utility provider.
There are many homes that used a type of wire called 12/3 NM or 14/3 NM or Romex wire with or without a ground wire (red, black, white) and may be used inside of a electrical circuit breaker panel for two 120 volt circuits this is allowed by the NEC code, and the red and black wires "MUST" be on separate phases or legs to share the neutral or white wire.
Fuzzy :)
hi fuzzytomcat;
This sounds very interesting, I've never herd that before and I've built dozen's of single and Milty family homes. I might give that a try as my home is a money pit where power is concerned.
The last part is a little off though. New homes usually are wired with 12/2 or 14/2 for normal 120v outlets and switches. The 12/3's are used on 3 way switches or switched outlets etc.
Pete
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hi fuzzytomcat;
This sounds very interesting, I've never herd that before and I've built dozen's of single and Milty family homes. I might give that a try as my home is a money pit where power is concerned.
The last part is a little off though. New homes usually are wired with 12/2 or 14/2 for normal 120v outlets and switches. The 12/3's are used on 3 way switches or switched outlets etc.
Pete
Hey vonwolf, It's not to hard to balance the loads if you have a clamp-on amp meter that you can put on the main feeder wires in the circuit breaker panel, turn on things you use all the time lights, devices that are on a lot AV equipment ..... stuff like that, measuring the amps on both lines or phases.
Then swap or move wires and or circuit breakers around if you can to different lines or phase locations in your circuit breaker panel to balance the load equal. It takes some time to do it fairly close, but there is quite the savings. The circuits that are 240 volt or two lines or phases circuit breakers with a tie bar or device to connect the two lines or phase together are balanced loads, similar to all European home voltages are 240 volt 3-wire from the utility.
I have seen some 200 amp home services up to easily 40 amps difference all the time on 120 volt circuits, like 60 amps line one, 20 amps line two (not using the 240 volt circuits or turning off until balancing completed) like at night with everything that could be turned on normally.
The older "Zinsco" or "GTE Sylvania" panels are the worse, they have a relocatable lug thats screwed on the back of the circuit breaker, stock the 120 volt breakers come with the lug on one line or phase side "ONLY" most electricians in the 60-70s were lazy and never swapped some of them to the other line or phase ...... so they all ended up on one line or phase :P but easy to change if it was done wrong.
"Disclaimer" If you are a home owner and in the United States the NEC electrical code apply's in most all states and will let you do your own electrical work in your home (permits may be needed). If unsure what your doing it is always best to seek professional help or a electrician to do the electrical work to all state and local codes. Most insurance company's during any fire investigation sees unapproved wiring or work that may not have been inspected by a state, county or city electrical inspector and is related to the fire can or will "Void" most home owners insurance policy's. :o "Disclaimer"
Fuzzy :)
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@all
first its a watt hour meter it reads watts not volt amps.,residential users are not billed for phase angle.
second the meter has a coil for each leg so an imbalance in current dose not make an improper bill.
what were you going to do sit there and juggle ccts everytime something turns off or on?
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@ all
If you want to save some Money, then first of all, reduce the need of electricity as much as you can.
This migt be done by using smaller Lams or LED bulbs.
Another way is, to use Timers to cut the time, that some Devices, like Chargers, are on the grid.
On another Place i had made some calkulation and like to reply it here .
Lets do some analysis to see the facts.
Lets assume, one have a small Heater for the bedroom.
Tle label shows. 220V, 55Ohm for the value of the resistor.
Fact is: the Resistor does in a normal environment NOT change his properties.
If the Heater is connectet to the Grid, he takes P=U*I 880Watt
I=U/R 220/55 = 4 Amps The Power of 880W/h will be charged on your bill.
Now the situation changes without you know.(perhaps)
The Energy supplier encreases the Voltage in his Grid to about 250Volt.
Your Heater in the Bedroom and other Resistors on the Net behave as usual.
But this causes different effects.
Now I=U/R is 250/55= 4,563 Amps And the Heater reacts with more Power.
P=U*I = 250 * 4,563 = 1140,75 Watt
What does it mean?
The charge on your Bill encreases by more or less 22%
Without you notest.
"Start of the joke"
So in this case it might be of use to have a small resistor in spare 16Ohm might be fine,
but this must be able to carry the load of 1140Watt.
"End of joke"
Result:
Actions on both sides of the Meter effects the other side.
The biggest save effect is based on the Voltage.
The correction on the Power faktor workes for inductive loads only.
Inductive loads are from coils. Transformers, Motors and so on.
The cos/phi power factor on a meter is Zero, when there is no load connected.
As soon as one connect a inductive load ,on the plug in your home, one
pay for the reactive power too.
The usual meter das not include a circuit,that corrects the power factor.
During the night, if some electricity supplier, increase the voltage on the grid,it directly
encreases the amps, that all resistors take from the net.
This includes all non inductive resistors too. ( Heaters)
You have to pay for it without beein asked.
Give it a proove yourselve by just see the formula to calculate the electrical Power
and as well as to calculate the powerfactor.
The Voltage is a Key on all calculation.
I have ordered some of the power factor corrector devices.
As soon as they arrive, i will build a setup to test and proove about the actual
advantage that one can expect.
helmut
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@all
first its a watt hour meter it reads watts not volt amps.,residential users are not billed for phase angle.
second the meter has a coil for each leg so an imbalance in current dose not make an improper bill.
what were you going to do sit there and juggle ccts everytime something turns off or on?
fritznien,
I'm sorry if you may be confused, as a electrical engineer for 10 years 24 years ago, and a practicing Oregon State licensed electrical contractor for the past 24 years, with 34 years of electrical experience total, one would think I know something about this having delt with it 100's of times.
Amps are Amps and have nothing to do with "PHASE ANGLE" in this post, or a residential service.
Do you know how to change the "Phase Angle" from the power supplied to a home service by the utility provider without effecting other services supplied from the same transformer? or can you ever do it with out permission from your utility provider?
Adding PF corrector equipment can effect every service connected to a "shared" utility service providers transformer and can cause fluctuations to all services connected to that transformer.
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Simple,cheap,working,legal device to reduce electric bill.
I have one that will definatly reduce your electric bill. :)
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Simple,cheap,working,legal device to reduce electric bill.
I have one that will definatly reduce your electric bill. :)
Only the best out there !! ;D
Fuzzy
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Keep in mind that different countries or even states/cities might have different measuring approaches. In any case, a local PFC saves energy, but not necessarily money. But that is already a good reason I would say. (The energy saved is the one that would be lost in the wiring between your home and the PFC at the power plant/distribution station. Just be sure you're not doing PFC for your whole neighborhood by accident.)
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fritznien,
I'm sorry if you may be confused, as a electrical engineer for 10 years 24 years ago, and a practicing Oregon State licensed electrical contractor for the past 24 years, with 34 years of electrical experience total, one would think I know something about this having delt with it 100's of times.
Amps are Amps and have nothing to do with "PHASE ANGLE" in this post, or a residential service.
Do you know how to change the "Phase Angle" from the power supplied to a home service by the utility provider without effecting other services supplied from the same transformer? or can you ever do it with out permission from your utility provider?
Adding PF corrector equipment can effect every service connected to a "shared" utility service providers transformer and can cause fluctuations to all services connected to that transformer.
you would think an iron ring would know. me i'm just an EET who spent years in school learning about electronics. what part did i get wrong? that PF only costs the utility money or that the meter is acurate? as for correcting power facter, every load you use in you house changes the PF for your service. as long as your equipment is approved why would anyone care?
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as long as your equipment is approved why would anyone care?
Some people care about the environment, some are just cheap. Some countries have much stricter PFC requirements than the US though, so it might not make that much a difference there.
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I was reading around at the subject(papers/articles from the industry) to view the power factor from the energy producer and consumer points of view.
to tell the truth i m perplexed about what exactly is measured at the home meter.Many of u r saying that the meter measures VA. Different sources state that in Europe it is the real power(so reactive is not taken into account) and just big energy users are to pay fines for the phase shift they introduce(if power factor goes below 0.95).Because of the extra reactive power used,the load(amps) on power substations/transformers increases.Electric company has to forsee bigger substations just to account for that fact..client pays higher rates to cover the reactive power transmission(more amps) and for the upgraded substations.BTW reactive power is not economical for energy company to produce and transmit.In fact we all pay for the costs of reactive power production and transmission,so reducing it could slow down the yearly rising energy transmission costs.In this way it would save us money in long term,with participation of many people.
Ok, we r progressive group of individuals in this forum and it is our duty to push the frontier on every energy aspect...that is just what we feel is right to do.So i would invest this few $/€.
Big energy users install banks of caps,cooled superconductive coils and so on to become their own reactive power producer.Doing so they avoid fines from the energy companies and save money in long term.
So i just need a way to verify just what kind of measurements the energy meter is performing.Anyone an idea how to verify it?
( i was thinking to try to make the meter to turn faster or slower by an RC load .If it has PF awarness ,it should not be possible to achive ,because it would just measure the real power).
I am also almost sure that different countries will have different energy meters principes.Like in Asia,they may still be using the techniques we used in Europe after WWII.In that case the energy saver would work in those regions quite well.
About USA i have no idea what standards u have there.From what u r saying it looks taht even the cable colours are different :)we have yellow/green,black or brown and blue :D
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... If both 120 volt line to ground legs or phases are balanced at 60 amps per leg or phase ..... right you pay for the 60 amps ..... not the 80 amp high leg or phase on a unbalance 3-wire system.
...
that sounds very interesting :) as an electric company i would charge for 120Amps and not from one leg ;D r u sure it is true?
I'm sorry if you may be confused, as a electrical engineer for 10 years 24 years ago, and a practicing Oregon State licensed electrical contractor for the past 24 years, with 34 years of electrical experience total, one would think I know something about this having delt with it 100's of times.
Amps are Amps and have nothing to do with "PHASE ANGLE" in this post, or a residential service.
Do you know how to change the "Phase Angle" from the power supplied to a home service by the utility provider without effecting other services supplied from the same transformer? or can you ever do it with out permission from your utility provider?
Adding PF corrector equipment can effect every service connected to a "shared" utility service providers transformer and can cause fluctuations to all services connected to that transformer.
IF industry is using PFC it means it is beneficial for both the energy producer and consumer to use it.If we won't overdo PFC it should just be beneficial for the substations.
There was some discussion in one of the papers about using of PCF before companys trafo and after it(big energy user with own substation).At that time i wasn't putting much of an attention to this subject so i don't remember exacly what were the pros and cons of both approaches.
About the permissions i have no idea,but every cooling agregate at my shop has cap's on it providing some PFC.If this is allowed that adding extra cap here and there should not be of a much problem.I may be wrong.
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you would think an iron ring would know. me i'm just an EET who spent years in school learning about electronics. what part did i get wrong? that PF only costs the utility money or that the meter is acurate? as for correcting power facter, every load you use in you house changes the PF for your service. as long as your equipment is approved why would anyone care?
A watt hour meter the utility company has been around forever a device with clock gears to operate the dials the more amperage from from coil a or b it takes the higher of the to, there is no fancy switches or electronics inside its mechanical, the power company has made two changes in 70 years to home or residential WH meters -
1) went from 120 volt to 240 volt meters
2) went from 4 dial to 5 dial for KW readings (or spedo type)
The power company looses money with PFC .... but in a home or residence lights, appliances, electronics exactly what is the benefit to the cost of such devices to a home owner unless you have a well or some 1HP motor somewhere in the residence. The only "real" savings is to commercial company's or business that have induction motors or similar devices, these do make a considerable savings to the consumer and can pay for the PFC installation costs itself sometimes in a year.
The power company has many restrictions and if you connect devices on a "shared" transformer and effect other paying customers connected negatively, the power company cares and can have you remove the equipment. I think if you look at residential transformers many supply up to 6 homes why do you think when enlarging a service from 100 amps to 200 amps the power company is always involved ...... so the transformer will not be overloaded "effecting" the other customers on the transformer with "voltage drops" and possible damage to all electrical equipment connected.
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The power company looses money with PFC .... but in a home or residence lights, appliances, electronics exactly what is the benefit to the cost of such devices to a home owner unless you have a well or some 1HP motor somewhere in the residence. The only "real" savings is to commercial company's or business that have induction motors or similar devices, these do make a considerable savings to the consumer and can pay for the PFC installation costs itself sometimes in a year.
Hi fuzzytomcat;
I/m not familiar with PFC's but I do have a 1hp well, a septic with a lift station, a 2hp pool pump and a A/C that works overtime here in Fla. Do you think I might benefit from a PFC and do I need one for each device?
Thanks Pete
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@fuzzytomcat
now,yes if ur devices will put a negative influence i agree,but to correct PF is essencially a desired state from both sides.Device working on low PF will require higher amperage amplitudes to deliver the same work.It means the energy supplier must forsee substations able to handle this=> expensive.
It is said quite compactly here on:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
Actaully it is a nice summary of what i read in different papers i could find in our univ librarry.
Ok it works best when in the picture....here u have the uncorrected PF applet:
http://www.falstad.com/circuit/e-powerfactor1.html
And here when the situation with the correction on it.
http://www.falstad.com/circuit/e-powerfactor2.html
Simple measurements, by one of our forum mates, showed quite low PF's on most non resistive equipement in the house.Showing some space for improvements.
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Hi fuzzytomcat;
I/m not familiar with PFC's but I do have a 1hp well, a septic with a lift station, a 2hp pool pump and a A/C that works overtime here in Fla. Do you think I might benefit from a PFC and do I need one for each device?
Thanks Pete
Hey vonwolf, What you have is a prime candidate for PF correction especially with a 2 hp motor for a pool that runs all the time and the well also. I would get one for each of your motors and you may have a savings each month from 15 to 20 dollars forever, not to mention the other stuff you have working better because the inrush current to start these screw up other things because of the voltage drop. Do your incandescent lights sometimes dim just a little some times for a real short period when the well motor starts, thats a good indication, and the PFC would stop it with the proper equipment. If your utility transformer is shared with a neighbor or two and have the same things of sorts, and you all got PFC equipment, you all could really benefit from this improvement.
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that sounds very interesting :) as an electric company i would charge for 120Amps and not from one leg ;D r u sure it is true?
About the permissions i have no idea,but every cooling agregate at my shop has cap's on it providing some PFC.If this is allowed that adding extra cap here and there should not be of a much problem.I may be wrong.
Hi Creativity, yes its true abut the wh meters there has been many people complaining about this for years .... but you could image the cost to change every meter in the United States. So the power company talk about "SMART" meters and adding electronics to get a average but are against it because the loose more money ..... but then they want to be able to offset the cost with meters that can be read by the meter reader inside his truck not having to read the little dials. My meter is in the back yard thats fenced to keep the "pit bull" in so the meter reader can't read the meter and guesses sometime cause the dogs out ....common problem for them.
The Shop you work at is more than likely a commercial business... totally different .... anything you can stick a PFC device on especially 3-phase devices is a win win situation and the utility has not to much to say ..... unless the next door neighbor HID lighting goes off because of a voltage drop you caused or blow something up of there's. :o
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the thing is, there is nothing wrong to happen with, a proper device,when u correct PF.As long as u stay on the 0.95-1 side and not overdo it to the case when the current starts to lead the voltage(and possibly meters start to turn backwards).BUT
as i repeat once more: in USA it could be different story with the meters.In many countries in Europe the meters measure the real power,even though we use apparent(VA) so no direct bill savings here.In long term we can save money by slowing down the increase in transmission costs that electricity company charge(because they will have less investements or delayed ones).
Next to it,current capacity of powerplants will be alright for longer time => emissions will be lower over a time period.
It should be confirmed by some measurement per country,what exactly is going on where.
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@ all
If you want to save some Money, then first of all, reduce the need of electricity as much as you can.
This migt be done by using smaller Lams or LED bulbs.
Another way is, to use Timers to cut the time, that some Devices, like Chargers, are on the grid.
On another Place i had made some calkulation and like to reply it here .
The biggest save effect is based on the Voltage.
The correction on the Power faktor workes for inductive loads only.
Inductive loads are from coils. Transformers, Motors and so on.
The cos/phi power factor on a meter is Zero, when there is no load connected.
As soon as one connect a inductive load ,on the plug in your home, one
pay for the reactive power too.
The usual meter das not include a circuit,that corrects the power factor.
During the night, if some electricity supplier, increase the voltage on the grid,it directly
encreases the amps, that all resistors take from the net.
This includes all non inductive resistors too. ( Heaters)
You have to pay for it without beein asked..................
helmut
Sorry guys
I did make a misstyping in the previous post.
The cos/phi power factor on a adjusted meter is 1, when there is no load connected.
As soon as one connect a inductive load ,on the plug in your home, one
pay for the reactive power too.
Now it is better.
Sorry, but shit happens.
helmut
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that sounds very interesting :) as an electric company i would charge for 120Amps and not from one leg ;D r u sure it is true?
IF industry is using PFC it means it is beneficial for both the energy producer and consumer to use it.If we won't overdo PFC it should just be beneficial for the substations.
There was some discussion in one of the papers about using of PCF before companys trafo and after it(big energy user with own substation).At that time i wasn't putting much of an attention to this subject so i don't remember exacly what were the pros and cons of both approaches.
About the permissions i have no idea,but every cooling agregate at my shop has cap's on it providing some PFC.If this is allowed that adding extra cap here and there should not be of a much problem.I may be wrong.
First, thanks to Creativity for bringing this topic up..! It's a logical continuation of many similar previous threads (one of them beeing the one mentioned in the first post of this thread), but they all failed due to "unknown reasons"... (i'd say people were just not interested...)
Well, depends of what your personal standards for a possibility of "FE" really are... I'd say a "Power Factor Correcting" method is one of a more promissing ones, one of those which can bring you a "REAL" results instantly.... A slightly reduced electricity bill? Paying less, anyone? No?
Well, it's not exactly like finding a new energy source, or maybe inventing a perpetual motion...
Here are my thoughts (from the original thread.)
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6443.msg148417#msg148417
We've heard a few opinions. It seems that a member Fritznien is opposing a usefullness of a PFC method for an individual consumers.
I'd like to know why, are there any specialities regarding the principle and correcting methods worldwide?
Thanks!
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in USA it could be different story with the meters.In many countries in Europe the meters measure the real power,even though we use apparent(VA) so no direct bill savings here.In long term we can save money by slowing down the increase in transmission costs that electricity company charge(because they will have less investements or delayed ones).
It should be confirmed by some measurement per country,what exactly is going on where.
If you live in Europe most voltages are 240volt or 380 volt using both phases or lines form your utility provider as far as I can remember and with anything connected to your electrical service it will be a balanced load there is no 120 volt used. Only in the USA and some places in Canada have 120 volt and when you connect electrical to one of the two branch circuit legs to a grounded conductors in 120 volt branch circuit connections its easy to load up one of the two phases with more amperage causing a unbalanced load on the service.
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@ all
If you want to save some Money, then first of all, reduce the need of electricity as much as you can.
This migt be done by using smaller Lams or LED bulbs.
Another way is, to use Timers to cut the time, that some Devices, like Chargers, are on the grid.
On another Place i had made some calkulation and like to reply it here .
The biggest save effect is based on the Voltage.
The correction on the Power faktor workes for inductive loads only.
Inductive loads are from coils. Transformers, Motors and so on.
The cos/phi power factor on a meter is Zero, when there is no load connected.
As soon as one connect a inductive load ,on the plug in your home, one
pay for the reactive power too.
The usual meter das not include a circuit,that corrects the power factor.
During the night, if some electricity supplier, increase the voltage on the grid,it directly
encreases the amps, that all resistors take from the net.
This includes all non inductive resistors too. ( Heaters)
You have to pay for it without beein asked.
Give it a proove yourselve by just see the formula to calculate the electrical Power
and as well as to calculate the powerfactor.
The Voltage is a Key on all calculation.
I have ordered some of the power factor corrector devices.
As soon as they arrive, i will build a setup to test and proove about the actual
advantage that one can expect.
helmut
A Friend of mine called me some days ago to work with this tchech Company that he knows.
They are working now with the technic that was announced here, and got a patent on it.
www.eramcz.eu (http://www.eramcz.eu)
helmut
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They applied twice for a patent first was quite simple:
publication number: WO/2005/050341
International Application No.: PCT/CZ2004/000077
they never got the patent,their application stuck at International Preliminary Report on Patentability there was no inventive step and their claims 1-9 were all ruled out on this basis.more details here to find;
http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/fetch.jsp?SEARCH_IA=CZ2004000077&DBSELECT=PCT&C=10&TOTAL=19&IDB=0&TYPE_FIELD=256&SERVER_TYPE=19-10&QUERY=(ANA%2FCZ)+AND+(DE%2Fvoltage+AND+DE%2Fregulator)+&ELEMENT_SET=B&START=1&SORT=41240306-KEY&RESULT=16&DISP=25&FORM=SEP-0%2FHITNUM%2CB-ENG%2CDP%2CMC%2CAN%2CPA%2CABSUM-ENG&IDOC=95944&IA=CZ2004000077&LANG=ENG&DISPLAY=DOCS
Second application is more successful :
Pub. No.: WO/2007/031038 International Application No.: PCT/CZ2006/000059
more details:
http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/fetch.jsp?SEARCH_IA=CZ2006000059&DBSELECT=PCT&C=10&TOTAL=2&IDB=0&TYPE_FIELD=256&SERVER_TYPE=19-10&QUERY=(PA%2FFOGLAR%2C+AND+PA%2FJaroslav)+&ELEMENT_SET=B&START=1&SORT=41253927-KEY&RESULT=1&DISP=25&FORM=SEP-0%2FHITNUM%2CB-ENG%2CDP%2CMC%2CAN%2CPA%2CABSUM-ENG&IDOC=96106&IA=CZ2006000059&LANG=ENG&DISPLAY=STATUS
i read through the:
http://www.eramcz.eu/reg.htm
they do not use capacitors,that's good and probably much cheaper. Instead some toroidal trafos are used for the voltage stabilisation and power factor adjustments.
Have u made any tests with ur device(s) already?(the one(s) u ordered?)
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@ Creativity
The Parts arrived and i applyed a EU Plug . Than i gave it to the Neighbour to do
some Test because i had to work far from Home. Until now i have no report about it.
But i guess, that there is no significant reduce on the Bill.
I like the Way, the eramcz.eu People just build a solution.
Controle the Voltage and controle the fee.
Thats the Way to fight against the thiefs. ( Electricity Suppliers)
This is on a legal way
helmut
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Hello,
i dont know the word for this item.
BUT dont belive that you have fimd !"overunity".
this device can automatic regulalate the output voltage to
any wanted "fix / solid) voltage - ALSO IF the
an input is (example) 20 % higher or lower , as that)
The device was used before WW2 - aso NOW!!!
If the line voltage(as 110 or 220 VAC is not in good stability
to use. medical and other laboratory electric equipments
that need properly and solid supply.
You can buy this device as external /addition equipment, also some instruments that
was contained inside. (I have seen the last 2006 in an medical instrument
(an i have dissambled all parts. and remember the knowledge from
may father (i am now 66).
It is an very simply technic that you can find also in electric/physical books.
Gustav Pese
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If you live in the United States a quick way to save money on a electricity bill is to "Balance" the amperage or electrical loads so the amperage draw is equal on each leg of electricity that passes through your watt hour electrical meter used by your utility provider.
The way the watt hour meter operates is the amperage or load is divided into two power legs or phases 120 volt line to ground circuits, each of the two being metered on a home 3-wire system (utility transformer or power lines to utility watt hour meter base). If one leg or phase of the 120 volt line to ground is at 40 amps and the other 120 volt line to ground is at 80 amps your pay for the 80 amps the higher of the two. If both 120 volt line to ground legs or phases are balanced at 60 amps per leg or phase ..... right you pay for the 60 amps ..... not the 80 amp high leg or phase on a unbalance 3-wire system.
Alway any modifications to your electrical service system should be done by qualified person or electrician.
There are many homes that used a type of wire called 12/3 NM or 14/3 NM or Romex wire with or without a ground wire (red, black, white) and may be used inside of a electrical circuit breaker panel for two 120 volt circuits this is allowed by the NEC code, and the red and black wires "MUST" be on separate phases or legs to share the neutral or white wire.
Fuzzy :)
Sorry to drag up this rather old thread but I find this is NOT correct. I don't have your credentials fuzzytomcat but I have built 2 houses doing all the wiring myself. But that does prove anything however I just couldn't bring myself to believe what you were saying here as it does not make sense to me. So I turned off everything in the house and hooked up two 1500 watt heaters, one on one leg and one on the other leg. And yes I'm sure they are on opposite legs as I wired this myself. I also tried each heater by itself on both legs to eliminate any variations in individual heaters even though both were rated 1500 watt. The results do not validate what you have stated. I measured exactly 5 turns of my analog electric meter (the non-digital kind) with little dials and the one big aluminum spinner. For exactly 5 turns with both heaters it was taking 76 seconds. For exactly 5 turns with one heater or the other by itself (and again both tried on each leg one at a time) I was getting 39 seconds. Two times 39 seconds is 78 seconds. So there is an apparent 2 seconds discrepancy but according to what you were saying running both at the same time on separate legs should have still measured 39 seconds whether one or both were running. I do respect your knowledge and have seen great contributions by you on another forum but this does not agree with what you have said. So unless there is some particular kind of old meter this works on I would say this is not true. My meter is a standard looking GE model on a 200 Amp main panel. Can you or anyone explain why my tests are different than what you stated. Did I totally misunderstand something here?
One more bit of info I found to confirm my statement was from a forum where someone was asking something along this line. This is an answer by 'tkrussell - the Senior Electrical & Lighting Expert' :
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,640
"Balancing a panelboard does not save on electric bill, a watt is a watt, and does not matter which side the watt goes thru the meter, the meter will still register the watt and the time billing you in kilowatt-hours."