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Author Topic: Joule Thief  (Read 5257456 times)

Offline Groundloop

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15975 on: January 02, 2013, 12:44:47 PM »
I have my universal printed circuit board for the AMP-2 soldered now.
Next step will be connecting a antenna and ground and
start measuring the output.

GL.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15975 on: January 02, 2013, 12:44:47 PM »

Offline stprue

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15976 on: January 02, 2013, 01:23:25 PM »
What type of germanium diodes are you using?  Are the caps Code 204 (200nf)?

Offline synchro1

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15977 on: January 02, 2013, 01:32:12 PM »
@Groundloop,
 
                   Looks fantastic! A good rule to remember is that output is directly proportional to the antenna dimension. The A.C. neutral line looks like a massive one.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15977 on: January 02, 2013, 01:32:12 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline Groundloop

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15978 on: January 02, 2013, 02:13:17 PM »
stprue,

I'm using NTE109 germanium diodes, 1nF 500 volt ceramic capacitors and 2,2uF 100 volt electrolytic capacitors.
(That was what I had, so I used that.)

synchro1,

The mains neutral in Norway is the same as the ground (often the metal water pipes is used as ground).
We do not use distributed ground on the mains in Norway. So there is no difference in the electrical ground
or the outside ground since the electrical ground is connected to the metal copper pipes where I live.

I will do a test on the mains ground anyway to see if I get any output. Then I will try a antenna and outside ground.

First test of AMP2:

Mains ground to circuit ground, Earth ground to circuit antenna = 0,00 Volt over 470 Ohm load.
Earth ground to circuit ground, mains ground to circuit antenna = 0,00 Volt over 470 Ohm load.
Inside house 4 meter copper wire antenna to circuit antenna, Earth ground to circuit ground = 0,00 Volt over a 470 Ohm resistor.
Inside house 4 meter copper wire antenna to circuit ground, Earth ground to circuit antenna = 0,00 Volt over a 470 Ohm resistor.
Inside house 4 meter copper wire antenna to circuit antenna, Earth ground to circuit ground and unloaded circuit = 0,01 Volt.

Circuit antenna input connected to cable TV ground and circuit ground connected to Earth ground, gave 7,5 volt unloaded.
A green LED did blink dimly each time I connected the LED to the circuit.  The circuit capacitors did charge back in under 0,5 second.

GL.


Offline stprue

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15979 on: January 02, 2013, 02:34:45 PM »
Thanks GL.

I look forward to your results.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15979 on: January 02, 2013, 02:34:45 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline DreamThinkBuild

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15980 on: January 02, 2013, 02:38:15 PM »
Nice work Groundloop.

Looks like an energy harvesting circuit.

Patent:7791557 - Multiple antenna energy harvesting
http://www.google.com/patents/US7791557

Offline Groundloop

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15981 on: January 02, 2013, 03:27:42 PM »
My conclusion so far is that this circuit do work. But one will need a long outside antenna and
a good earth grounding to get a output that can be used to charge batteries etc. So a good antenna
and good grounding, and there you go, free energy. (Minus the cost of the circuit:-)

GL.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15981 on: January 02, 2013, 03:27:42 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline stprue

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15982 on: January 02, 2013, 04:55:58 PM »
@Groundloop

Read about Jes's version!

Offline TinselKoala

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15983 on: January 02, 2013, 09:04:34 PM »
Quote
As with all free-energy devices, the exact
constructional details are vital.

Can't argue with that !!


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15983 on: January 02, 2013, 09:04:34 PM »
3D Solar Panels

Offline Groundloop

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15984 on: January 02, 2013, 09:29:33 PM »
@Groundloop

Read about Jes's version!

stprue,

Thank you for the document.

There was a part of the document that did not sound right. (See attached)

Two modules can power a LED to full brightness at 2.6 Volt. Let us say that the
current to fully lit a normal LED is 20mA. Then, P = (U*U) / I = (2,6*2,6) / 20 =  0,338mW.
That was for two modules, so one module can then provide 0,169mW.

Then the article goes on to say that you can fully charge a 12 Volt battery with 20 modules
over night. 20 modules is 3,36 Watt. If it is a very small battery, then yes, but if it is a large
car battery, then no way. (20 modules can power 10 LEDs.)

Then the article goes on to say that with a estimated of 200 modules, you can power your house.
You can power 100 LEDs with 200 modules. Nowhere close to powering a house.

To conclude, yes the ambient power module do work. But the output of each module
is low, typical 0,169mW. To power a house you will need an afoul lot of modules to
get enough power.

That said, I plan to make an 24 Watt (approx.) module. Attached is the Eagle CAD design files.

The 24 Watt module has 144 single modules onto a printed circuit board. I use 12 modules
in series and the 12 of the series modules in parallel. The work on this has begun but the soldering
is a pain in the ass. 576 diodes and 576 capacitors to solder, so 1152 solders in total. A lot of work. :-)

The PCB and parts did cost me approx. 6000 Norwegian Kroner. (Approx. 1088 USD).
I expect to get this board ready in a couple of months time. (I solder some few components each day.)

GL.

Offline totoalas

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15985 on: January 02, 2013, 10:44:32 PM »
GL
Congratulations   
Way to go in 2013     lol  :) :) :)
totoalas

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15985 on: January 02, 2013, 10:44:32 PM »
3D Solar Panels

Offline TinselKoala

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15986 on: January 02, 2013, 11:31:07 PM »
I just built a single module and it works to light an LED dimly using my Earth ground and my 15-meter longwire antenna outside (not a very good antenna). This house has a metal roof and is in kind of a radio-dead zone besides; it's hard to pick up standard broadcast signals.

It works with either polarity, too...that is, it doesn't matter whether I have the ground, or the antenna, hooked to the hookup points, works either way. The same module hooked across the little bifilar coil lights the LED brightly when near my wireless power transmitter..... perhaps the most inefficient way to light an LED yet discovered ! 12 volts at several amps input to the transmitter..... and a small green LED glowing brightly on the output !!

Offline totoalas

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15987 on: January 02, 2013, 11:45:25 PM »

A ground is one side of an electrical supply that allows the flow of electrons to exit its source.  With no ground, the electricity cannot move away from its source and and cannot do any work.
http://cr4.globalspec.com/PostImages/200809/Ground_73D8068A-90F5-1190-9B9F0521134DB637.JPG)
In the case of a vehicle with lots of metal (e.g. an automobile or a ship), the power is run from a source, through a resistance (meaning how it is utilized, like a motor or light bulb), and into the metal body.  The metal body is large enough to absorb most of the extra electron flow and transmit it to the earth through the air, water, or other fluid in which it is situated.
Because the transmission of electrons through fluid encourages rust to form on the large metal body, the transmission is sometimes routed through a 'sacrificial anode'...a piece of metal lower on the galvanic response scale...so that the sacrificial anode does the rusting instead of the metal body to which it is attached as the electrons flow through the anode and then through the ambient fluid to the earth.
(http://cr4.globalspec.com/PostImages/200809/Ground_with_sacrifical_anode_73D89A5F-ADE4-532E-C868EDC33AD0F8AB.JPG)
The body is called a ground, the practice is called 'grounding', and it is so-called because it imitates the quality of the planetary surface of our planet to absorb an electron flow, which makes the earth the largest of all grounds.
Grounding is also the descriptive word used when the electricity follows any path to the earth or any other ground.  If the grounding is very light, or caused accidentally, it is called a 'ground fault', and can sometimes inhibit a full electricity flow through the circuit.  People who are electrocuted accidentally have unintentionally provided a path to a ground or to the earth for electricity from the source to follow; so for example wall outlets have been designed that open immediately if the tiniest overload through them caused by a ground fault is detected to prevent accidental electrocution.
In household wiring, all the wires that will eventually run to the ground are gathered together first, as 'neutral' wires, then connected to a single ground, usually the earth either at the house or at a power station's choice of locations.
The earth or 'earth' you are speaking of is the planet you are standing on.  The earth is the mother of all grounds.  Since it is huge and the moisture in its surface enhances electricity flow, a conductive stake driven into it will act as the perfect exit for the flowing electrons in an electrical circuit.  Sometimes water pipes are used to ground circuits as they eventually connect through the earth to their underground sources.
That is why in some countries, the words 'earth' and 'earthing' are sometimes interchangeable with the words 'ground' and 'grounding'.  If a ground is not found by using the earth, a large metal source will usually do.
Mark
The above quote are for newbies to understand the terms   
Happy experimenting
totoalas :)

Offline stprue

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15988 on: January 03, 2013, 02:31:42 PM »
@GL,

That's a lot of $$.  What I would also do if I were you is also follow Jes's instructions on the Al plate/antenna.  Also check out the link to EE forum.  There is 3 pages of good information there.  What is not clearly stated is what the Al plate should be insulated with something and from whatever you will be hanging it on.  I have done a little research on this and it seems that teflon spray might be a better insulation choice.  Something about negative ion attraction, but do your own research to confirm.  Sounds like you may soon have a free energy lab as the very least.  I'm very excited to see a scaled up version of this radiant energy receiver.  Other then stories of people building these units, I have never actually know the good credentials of a builder, until now!   :)

Offline e2matrix

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Re: Jule Thief
« Reply #15989 on: January 03, 2013, 06:21:42 PM »
I was just going to mention that you will see much better results with a Teflon coated wire but I see stprue just mentioned that.  I'm not sure teflon spray is the way to go though since you can buy Teflon coated wire.  The Teflon attracts charges and even a slight wind can add a lot to the effect.   It's a bit more expensive but somewhere between $10 and $20 should get you about 50 feet of it.

 

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