Wow!  Very nice setup.  Can you describe the torque on your second version with more detail?   

If the torqe is good at that voltage shouldn't you be able to mechanically gear up/down the altenator to 200 RPMs?

Hi all,

I will try to address a few posts that I did not respond to or did not answer  at the time.

kahbe

Obviously magnetic flux is very weak - does not go deep through windings, why not to use Neodymium magnets - all possible shapes an sizes available?
Design of rotor still unclear    -   3" magnets have very serious weight, it must to be very well balanced ... but all mounted on the plywood disc Huh  and 0.25" shaft !!!

The neodynium are very powerful magnets but I did not have any at the time that would fit my design.
Yes the rotor needs to be balanced and to a few gr. I made a jig with 2 parallel rails and from there achieved a good balance.
The plywood is used in the construction of the frame, the rotor has a 1/4" shaft with a ferrous coupler to which the magnets are glued. The magnets have no chance of coming off in normal use. When I made the video, I protected from fly off.

Careica

So I think to wind first 250 Ohms, try it whit 12V 7Ah Lead-Acid Battery, which should be best voltage when 250 Ohms, then I will double amount of coil and get 500Ohms and doulbe voltages to, put 2x 12V 7Ah L-A Batteries in series = 24V etc.

As you raise the voltage, the coil will produce a stronger magnetic field and the bemf will get very strong. Protect your coil to prevent a burn through (High BEMF that jumps in the coil and burns through wire insulation). Also try inserting a cap between your coil terminals, that will tame your bemf and give you additional rpm. You can also recover them a la John Bedini, his recovery circuit is easy to add.

Take care,

Michel

Hi Careica,

You can do it many ways. Neon bulb, capacitors and diodes are used. Check a few of RayOenergy videos, he shows how it is done. I leave my son-in-law do the electronic part, I just tell him what I need to do and he mix in how to best do it, sometimes with the only parts we have handy.

I use a spark gap http://czshengshi.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008810216674/pdtl/Surge-protector/1003159320/2-electrode-Switching-Spark-Gap.htm and a 4uf 220vac capacitor in parallel across the coil or coils in series.

Hi all,

I started to build the alternator for the Newman motor V2.0. I simplified the design as time is getting short and my back keeps me from working for extended periods. I am also building a few prototypes of the Nathan Stubblefield cells so I may not have much time to roam the forum but I will still monitor a few times a day for questions or suggestions. 

The final design is set and the rotors and stator are done with the exception of the coils. It is a dual rotors with 16 magnets ( 1 1/2" X 1" X 1/4" neo) on each and with the stator in 2 parts that I will be able to remove and fix if need be without dismantling the whole unit. The stator will slide in from the side and will be held with small aluminum tracks. I am not found of dismantling the rotors fighting with the bunch of magnets and risk injury. My coil winding jig is done and only need to split the magnet wire on two spools before starting.

The 12 coils will be bifilar awg 18 of about 90 turns which should give a nice output at low rpm. I already have my high power diodes and a few heatsinks to hold them, they are the type used in a Delcotron 100 amps. And today, my charge controller Xantrex C60 with the digital display panel came in, that will be used to start and stop the Newman according to the batteries charge.

I am taking pictures as I go along and will document the final kit and as all my kits, they are based on wood so no special machining is needed.

Take care,

Michel

Hi all,

Some news from the lab, the Newman V2.0 is undergoing tests and it looks like I will get the speed I need but I'll have to setup carbon brushes and a good recovery circuit as the bemf are saturating the spark gap at over 150V. I may need to mod the commutator according to my needs.

On the other front, my alternator is coming along well, I molded the coils in the frame and just need to connect the bifilar and output wires. The rotors are all done and just need the magnets to be set in. It's starting to look good and assembly should be this week.

Take care,

Michel

Hi Michel,
looks very nice your alternator and Newman machine.
Keep up the good work.

The trick with the Newman motors is to
use many battery cells, best Lead-ACID or NiMH in series to get the voltage
very high , so the current draw from the batteries is very low.


So, if you want to have a Newman motor, say with 10 Watts mechanical power output,
you need to get around 100 mA current draw and 100 Volts battery supply voltage.

100 mA is still a bit too high for the current draw, so if you work cautiously and
know how to handle High Voltage DC system, you can also go to 1000 Volts
battery supply and 10 mA input current.

But if you want to use a Newman motor for an electroscooter (as I want to build it soon)
or for another vehicle, you should better stay around 100 Volts for safety, although 100 Volts
DC can also already kill you...

As the Newman motor produces free electrons at the sparking commutator by oxidizing
the graphite electrode, these free charges will recharge your battery within the BackSpike
and the batteries will last much longer, as if you had drawn 10 Watts DC current from your
batteries.

So the overunity effect will come into the batteries and the Newman motor can be operated much longer
on the same battery charge energy than a normal DC motor operate.

So using a Newman type motor will finally make electrical vehicals
very practical as the recharge interval will be greatly reduced.

So driving 150 miles with your Newman type electroscooter instead
of just 20 miles with normal DC motor electroscooter with one charge will
be a big difference...

Regards, Stefan.